New Profiles...and They're CROOKED!

So I spent this morning helping a friend rebuild his wheel with his new
Profile hub, and we get to the last step -- installing the pedals --
when to our dismay we see the pedal slanting off at a really odd angle.
At first we wondered if the pedal axle was bent, but since it had been
straight when we began, we examined things more closely and noticed that
the crank was made incorrectly. The threaded sleeve (?) that the pedal
screws into was welded onto the crank perpendicular to the crank shaft,
and not parallel to the hub splines. So the pedal sticks out crooked.
Ugh!! There went today's ride.

Even worse, now we have to figure out how to get the darn crank off to
change it. It forces on via a large nut, but the instructions aren't
very clear on how to pull it (and of course, it doesn't have a neat
self-extracting feature like the Onza). Anyone have any tips for taking
these things off?

First I've heard of defective Profiles. Hope this isn't the start of a
trend!

Jerry


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Ok, I tried to post a picture, but it didn't work. How do I add a
pic?

Jerry


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Ok, here's the picture. Thanks, Mango!

[image:
http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/al...ile_crank_001]


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Very strange indeed!



[image:
http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/al...001.sized.jpg]


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It looks like the pedal spindle is bent. Are they new pedals?

Also make sure that you don't put the pedal on cross-threaded. If the
pedal threads get cross-threaded you will damage the threads on the
crank and ruin the crank.


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Steve - thanks for posting the pic. Any idea what I did wrong?

John - The pedal's straight, spindle and all, and not cross-threaded.
When you look at it in person, you can see the portion of the crank that
receives the pedal threads is welded in crooked. The guy must've been
hungover that day.

Is there any trick to removing the crank?

Jerry


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jpcycler wrote:
*Is there any trick to removing the crank?*

You can use the Evercraft bearing puller that unicycle.com sells. Here
is a thread with an attached picture showing how the bearing puller can
be used to pull off the Profile cranks: 'removing Profile cranks'
(http://tinyurl.com/3645)

New Profile cranks fit very tight on the axle and will be difficult to
remove. After the cranks have been used for a while the splines get
looser and the crank will be easier to remove. After a while you'll be
able to remove the cranks by hand without the use of the Evercraft
bearing puller. Since you have a brand new crank it may be quite
difficult to pull the crank off.


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jerry- I'll pitch in half on the crank puller with steve. The
performance guys couldnt get one of my cranks off and they still need to
be rotated. -e


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jpcycler wrote:
*Steve - thanks for posting the pic. Any idea what I did wrong?
*

See the 'Image Test' (http://tinyurl.com/27ex9) thread in the Test forum
for instructions on how to display an inline picture linked to a gallery
photo.

The other option is to attach the photo to a forum post. I prefer
adding pictures as an attachment to a forum post rather than using IMG
tags.

If you use the IMG tags you should make sure that the URL for the image
doesn't change later or you will break the link in the forum.


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Like John Childs thought, the photo makes it look like the pedal is the
problem.

I had a new set of Profile 145's with the same problem. It wasn't as
obvious as your's just by looking at it but it sure was while riding. I
called Profile, they exchanged them with no problem whatsoever.
They even took care of the shipping.
Just give them a call.

- Frank


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