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#51
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Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux
On Wednesday, January 8, 2020 at 8:46:40 PM UTC+1, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 1/8/2020 2:16 PM, wrote: On Wednesday, January 8, 2020 at 6:12:24 PM UTC+1, Frank Krygowski wrote: Here's a question: How many here have crashed on the road or a rail-trail because their headlight was insufficient? (I'm not talking about off-road woods riding.) -- - Frank Krygowski Most people adapt their speed Frank. When the daylight saving time ends I start riding in the dark from begin to end. My average speed drops 3 km/hr. IOW, your response is "Not me." Correct? -- - Frank Krygowski I can't remember a crash because of that but there are moments I think I wish I could ride faster. Lou |
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#52
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Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux
On 1/8/2020 3:23 PM, AMuzi wrote:
On 1/8/2020 1:45 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 1/8/2020 12:07 PM, jbeattie wrote: The deal with dyno lights is that they are wickedly expensive, and with a decent hub dyno, even more so. You would think that $400-500 for tippy top of the line stuff would get you a stadium light with cut-off. You would not even think there would be any back-and-forth on the subject. This sounds similar to "Bike tires should last 30,000 miles like on my SUV. And bikes should have complete electrical circuits built in for horns and sirens and any other accessory the rider wants. And why aren't spokes 1/8" thick? If one breaks, the mountain lions will get me!" A bicycle should be an example of appropriate technology. Yes, "appropriate" varies from person to person. But only bicyclists traveling as fast as cars need car headlights. I don't understand why bicyclists demand overkill in just this one area. I do agree about the cut-off, though. I've been blinded a few times and seriously irritated many more by the "more is always better" crowd. Huh how about that. Also sounds similar to 'no one ought to ride a tire cross section I personally dislike'. I believe you misunderstand me on that point. What I've said instead is, it's silly to design a bike frame that limits tire sizes to the narrowest ones. You can put a 19mm tire and wheelset into a frame with clearance for 28s. It works, and it was done for decades. But vice-versa doesn't work. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#54
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Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux
On Wednesday, January 8, 2020 at 11:33:06 PM UTC+1, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 1/8/2020 3:23 PM, AMuzi wrote: On 1/8/2020 1:45 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 1/8/2020 12:07 PM, jbeattie wrote: The deal with dyno lights is that they are wickedly expensive, and with a decent hub dyno, even more so. You would think that $400-500 for tippy top of the line stuff would get you a stadium light with cut-off. You would not even think there would be any back-and-forth on the subject. This sounds similar to "Bike tires should last 30,000 miles like on my SUV. And bikes should have complete electrical circuits built in for horns and sirens and any other accessory the rider wants. And why aren't spokes 1/8" thick? If one breaks, the mountain lions will get me!" A bicycle should be an example of appropriate technology. Yes, "appropriate" varies from person to person. But only bicyclists traveling as fast as cars need car headlights. I don't understand why bicyclists demand overkill in just this one area. I do agree about the cut-off, though. I've been blinded a few times and seriously irritated many more by the "more is always better" crowd. Huh how about that. Also sounds similar to 'no one ought to ride a tire cross section I personally dislike'. I believe you misunderstand me on that point. What I've said instead is, it's silly to design a bike frame that limits tire sizes to the narrowest ones. You can put a 19mm tire and wheelset into a frame with clearance for 28s. It works, and it was done for decades. But vice-versa doesn't work. -- - Frank Krygowski We have noted that a long time ago Frank. I'm sure you can't get 60 mm balloon tires in all your frames. Some people have different limits. Lou |
#55
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Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux
On Wed, 8 Jan 2020 12:10:35 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote: On 1/8/2020 9:40 AM, Sepp Ruf wrote: jbeattie wrote: I've been commuting home at night for the last 35 years in Portland, much of it in the rain during the wet months, so its like thousands and thousands AND thousands (did I mention thousands?) of miles in the dark, and all I got to say is that the Luxos B and the SPPD8 suck compared to a sale-table all-in-one battery light, my L&M Urban 800. Even on low beam. It's not a low beam. As you could have looked up and mentioned yourself, your L&M flashlight's low setting produces 175 factory lumens. An undamaged Luxos is certainly putting out less than half when you ride at 10 mph, and much of it purposefully directed at the beam's top. Good point, that there's a difference between "low beam" and "dimmer beam." When I mentioned upthread that there might be a (very) few times I'd like a high beam, I meant light shining upward, not light just shining brighter. But of course one needs a light that shines upward.... how else can one dodge thoese overhanging tree branches (:-?) -- cheers, John B. |
#56
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Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux
On Wed, 8 Jan 2020 14:07:29 -0800 (PST), wrote:
On Wednesday, January 8, 2020 at 8:46:40 PM UTC+1, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 1/8/2020 2:16 PM, wrote: On Wednesday, January 8, 2020 at 6:12:24 PM UTC+1, Frank Krygowski wrote: Here's a question: How many here have crashed on the road or a rail-trail because their headlight was insufficient? (I'm not talking about off-road woods riding.) -- - Frank Krygowski Most people adapt their speed Frank. When the daylight saving time ends I start riding in the dark from begin to end. My average speed drops 3 km/hr. IOW, your response is "Not me." Correct? -- - Frank Krygowski I can't remember a crash because of that but there are moments I think I wish I could ride faster. Lou Way back when, I was living in a small town in Japan and used to ride a bike. In those days a tire driven generator and an incandescent bulb head light was about all there was and strange as it might seem I had no problems seeing well enough to successfully get back and forth to work. -- cheers, John B. |
#57
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Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux
On 1/8/2020 4:32 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 1/8/2020 3:23 PM, AMuzi wrote: On 1/8/2020 1:45 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 1/8/2020 12:07 PM, jbeattie wrote: The deal with dyno lights is that they are wickedly expensive, and with a decent hub dyno, even more so. You would think that $400-500 for tippy top of the line stuff would get you a stadium light with cut-off. You would not even think there would be any back-and-forth on the subject. This sounds similar to "Bike tires should last 30,000 miles like on my SUV. And bikes should have complete electrical circuits built in for horns and sirens and any other accessory the rider wants. And why aren't spokes 1/8" thick? If one breaks, the mountain lions will get me!" A bicycle should be an example of appropriate technology. Yes, "appropriate" varies from person to person. But only bicyclists traveling as fast as cars need car headlights. I don't understand why bicyclists demand overkill in just this one area. I do agree about the cut-off, though. I've been blinded a few times and seriously irritated many more by the "more is always better" crowd. Huh how about that. Also sounds similar to 'no one ought to ride a tire cross section I personally dislike'. I believe you misunderstand me on that point. What I've said instead is, it's silly to design a bike frame that limits tire sizes to the narrowest ones. You can put a 19mm tire and wheelset into a frame with clearance for 28s. It works, and it was done for decades. But vice-versa doesn't work. pffft. I've been buying the same style 22~23mm tubulars since I was a teenager and have run them in a good many bicycle frames without any clearance troubles whatsoever. Only one of those frames was custom built and tire clearance was never mentioned when ordering that. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#58
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Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux
On 1/8/2020 4:53 PM, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jan 2020 14:07:29 -0800 (PST), wrote: On Wednesday, January 8, 2020 at 8:46:40 PM UTC+1, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 1/8/2020 2:16 PM, wrote: On Wednesday, January 8, 2020 at 6:12:24 PM UTC+1, Frank Krygowski wrote: Here's a question: How many here have crashed on the road or a rail-trail because their headlight was insufficient? (I'm not talking about off-road woods riding.) Most people adapt their speed Frank. When the daylight saving time ends I start riding in the dark from begin to end. My average speed drops 3 km/hr. IOW, your response is "Not me." Correct? I can't remember a crash because of that but there are moments I think I wish I could ride faster. Way back when, I was living in a small town in Japan and used to ride a bike. In those days a tire driven generator and an incandescent bulb head light was about all there was and strange as it might seem I had no problems seeing well enough to successfully get back and forth to work. +1 And we enjoy more light than our grandfathers' acetylene lamps. A good thing about modernity is anyone who wants more light may have it at low cost, bicycles or wherever: https://ourworldindata.org/light (couldn't find Nordhaus' original work from the early 1990s but the graphs are just as impressive in link above) -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#59
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Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux
On Wed, 8 Jan 2020 09:07:25 -0800 (PST),
jbeattie wrote: I've got a couple broken ribs from the last crash that hurt like a MF. I crept home in the pouring rain last night, feeling every unseen bump climbing up the goat road to my neighborhood. Creeping along at 6-10mph up a climb... Your creeping climb mph is my all out attack. Damn winter/holiday fat. -- Ted Heise West Lafayette, IN, USA |
#60
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Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux
On Wednesday, January 8, 2020 at 7:20:40 PM UTC, AMuzi wrote:
On 1/8/2020 1:08 PM, Andre Jute wrote: On Wednesday, January 8, 2020 at 5:07:28 PM UTC, jbeattie wrote: On Wednesday, January 8, 2020 at 8:33:20 AM UTC-8, Andre Jute wrote: On Wednesday, January 8, 2020 at 2:40:25 PM UTC, Sepp Ruf wrote: jbeattie wrote: I've been commuting home at night for the last 35 years in Portland, much of it in the rain during the wet months, so its like thousands and thousands AND thousands (did I mention thousands?) of miles in the dark, and all I got to say is that the Luxos B and the SPPD8 suck compared to a sale-table all-in-one battery light, my L&M Urban 800. Even on low beam. It's not a low beam. As you could have looked up and mentioned yourself, your L&M flashlight's low setting produces 175 factory lumens. An undamaged Luxos is certainly putting out less than half when you ride at 10 mph, and much of it purposefully directed at the beam's top. I suspect I've got a problem with my light and will do some more testing tonight with my sooper-sophisticated Radio Shack multimeter. More uncertainty induced by a questionable cat meter, operated by a lawyer. For how many years have you been complaining about that Luxos? Come on, send the damn thing to Frank! The California-made, plastic flashlight he is willing to dump^Wswap has not gotten better by sitting in his garage.. +10. Based on the Peter White beam shots and the some other stuff off the interweb, the light should be brighter than it is -- unless the interweb is wrong, and that's impossible. They rip you double at the Bar Council for being so gullible. Maybe your intraweb skills that are inadequate. Forget PW's sales material, it's a nice presentation of beam shapes, but similarly exaggerating of the brighter lamps' visual impressions as b&m's pictures taken inside their misleadingly lightly painted garage. By contrast, J. Basler's photos and O. Schultz's measurement data have been up for years for the inqusitive to study -- and for the ignorant to ignore or deny. This https://www.baslerbikes.de/files/BaslerBikes/Bilder/Fotos/Leuchtentest%202013/Leuchtentest/IMG_0040_233731.jpg is a better illustration of what a Luxos rider sees on dark asphalt, at 20 kph. Perhaps that road was wet. My asphalt is usually grey rather than black, including the tarmac on the lane where this photo was taken: http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index....59139#msg59139 I still use the first series Cyo, waiting for a quantum-step from BUMM. But meanwhile I've given up riding in the night when it rains because at my age a broken hip will just be too debilitating. I've got a couple broken ribs from the last crash that hurt like a MF. I crept home in the pouring rain last night, feeling every unseen bump climbing up the goat road to my neighborhood. Creeping along at 6-10mph up a climb, I decided to skip the Luxos dying Tinker Bell mood light and fire up the L&M. Today I drove to see if I could get some healing, so no riding home in the dark tonight. I didn't bother with more testing last night. Maybe I'll do that tonight. You're just putting the rejoining of the bones off, and weakening the bond that forms, by doing handyman jobs on you bike. Sit in an easy chair with your feet up and get your dog to bing your slippers. The deal with dyno lights is that they are wickedly expensive, and with a decent hub dyno, even more so. You would think that $400-500 for tippy top of the line stuff would get you a stadium light with cut-off. You would not even think there would be any back-and-forth on the subject. I've been saying that for a very long time. I see absolutely no reason a bicycle shouldn't have lamps at least as good as those on a car, and I don't mean the crap lamps fitted to American cars, I mean European E55 spec lamps or better. The good news is that my Showers Pass jacket kept me dry. That's a nice piece of kit. And all my wrenching over the weekend produced a quite drive train. The BB30 bearings were in great shape, and reinstalling the crank with a little grease stopped the clicking. The dyno wheel has a different rotor which was a little grabby, but not terrible. I've developed my bike to near-zero maintenance. Once a year I change the gearbox oil, give the clickbox for the gears a shot of Phil, and every second or third year I check the thickness of the brake blocks, the depth of the rubber on the tyres and the wear on the chain which runs for its entire life on the factory lube. Five stars for the over-priced Hayes feeler gauge: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....L._SL1500_.jpg Don't you have a thumbnail? Or a torch that you can hold behind the brake block which instantly tells you whether there is the right amount of space and whether the block is angled right if need be or straight if that is wanted. Perfect adjustment of the calipers with no drag. Another Christmas gift was this: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....L._SL1000_.jpg Also convenient, but redundant. What does it do? It sets the bearing preload cap in the Shimano LH crank arm while reminding the user of happier days with its Gripfast wingnut styling. http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk...griffith10.jpg That thing looks like a trophy. The tool Jay showed looks pretty rough by comparison. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 Thanks for the explanation, gentlemen. Andre Jute Why is a disturbed person called a wing nut? Because his brain is cross-threaded.. |
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