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#21
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need hill climbing advice
The hills of Clermont Florida, I used a nimbus 29er with 125mm. Worked fine but I paid dearly with leg cramps after 17.5 miles of a 35 mile ride. I have a crank that I hamered in and now I can't take it out. Is there a way without stripping the isis hub? -- florida ------------------------------------------------------------------------ florida's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/17658 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/58221 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
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#22
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need hill climbing advice
Unicycle.com sells crank extractors. http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=1230 Have you been using one of these tools, but it is still does not come off? -- scott ttocs ------------------------------------------------------------------------ scott ttocs's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/18076 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/58221 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#23
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need hill climbing advice
I am a 50 year old new rider. I started 26 Aug 08 I started riding after becoming injured in an ultra marathon ( I tore my planter facious off my heal) since then went from a 20" to a 24, then 26 and now I am riding a coker . I love riding, it has added a lot to my life and at my age, as other things are slowing down, it if fun to get better at something! My goal is to ride the MS 150 mile bike ride on the uni. in June. I needed to put longer cranks on because the shorter ones were too radical for me. I hope to move down to smaller cranks as I become more proficient / confident on the coker. I have been riding @ 6 to 10 miles a day and plan to to longer rides, weather permitting, but need to do more. Any good exercises you folks could suggest? Any one from the western PA area looking for a training partner? -- Buck ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Buck's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/18095 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/58221 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#24
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need hill climbing advice
Welcome to the forums Buck;1158020 wrote: My goal is to ride the MS 150 mile bike ride on the uni. in June. Any good exercises you folks could suggest? Start saving up for a KH geared hub and looking for a machinist to grind your bearing surfaces to 42 mm if they're 40 now on your 36". Use every opportunity to increase leg strength. Eg. do walking lunges around the office w/ a heavy backpack, do pistol squats while waiting for the copier, etc. Pistol Squat I read about a semipro cyclist did stuff like this to make up for the ridding he couldn't do because he had to work. After a couple of years he went pro and quit his job and was still able to support his family thanks to his new sponsors. -- skilewis74 Ride everywhere and never just ride anywhere. If you can ride where you are going within a hour, do it, and if you can do a trick 50-75% of the time do it along the way.- Bob Burnquist What next? 'IUF skill levels' (http://www.unicycling.org/iuf/levels/)*' Street' (http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/The_Unicyclopedia/Street)*'unicycletips.com' (http://unicycletips.com/)*'Trials class system' (http://tinyurl.com/yqpvxk)*'Trials Building' (http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64235) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ skilewis74's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/12404 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/58221 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#25
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need hill climbing advice
I've only been at it about a year, but I love hillclimbs and have come to notice something that makes a huge difference. There is a "sweet spot" of balance, one that seems much more precise than when riding on flats, and if you can stay in that spot, the level of effort drops significantly. When I lose that little spot and have to fight to regain it, I spend tremendous amounts of wasted energy. I know this sounds obvious -(OF COURSE there is a sweet spot, that is what unicycling is about!!)- but I'm talking about refining that sweet spot down to a precise millimeter that brings nirvana. When I can hold that spot, it feels like I'm in a granny gear on my mtb. I can relax my legs, take an extra long pause here and there as needed, and pass bikers up 14-18% grades. The other thing that helps is to LIFT your legs on the upstroke. It makes pedaling more efficient and easier. The ideal would be to do "ankling" and pedal circles like bikers, but with my ability level right now I'm lucky to just do mild pedal circles with an emphasis (especially on hills) on the upstroke lift. Hope this helps the OP. -- munimutant ------------------------------------------------------------------------ munimutant's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/16222 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/58221 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#26
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need hill climbing advice
Measuring Road Grade: You can use Google Earth to measure the road grade. Use the line measurement tool and set it to feet (or whatever unit the altitude is listed as in your preferences.) Find the road of interest and click the top and the bottom to measure the distance. With each click, measure the altitude (listed at the bottom of the window.) Now subtract the to altitude measurements--that gives you your "rise" and the "distance" comes from the measuring tool. To get the road grade, just use the formula: rise/distance * 100 = road grade (percent) I know a lot of you probably know how to do this measurement, but I am posting this message for those of you who have not worked it out. My guess is that the values are not meaningful for very short distances ( 50 feet) because of the limits of Google Earth data. I visited Baldwin Road in NZ (using Google Earth ) and did a few measurements: Full road: 17.9% grade. Lower half: 11.6% grade Upper Half: 23% grade Top 100 feet: 30% grade Ouch! Next time you want to tell us that the road or trail you climbed was very steep, use Google Earth to put numbers on it. -- scott ttocs ------------------------------------------------------------------------ scott ttocs's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/18076 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/58221 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#27
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need hill climbing advice
I love hillclimbing on my 36er. Based on Aspen Mike's advice, I started with 170s for major hillclimbs, but as I grew stronger and desired more speed I started messing with the 150 and 125 mm positions. Now I can't fathom using 170 cranks...they seem too long except for Coker Muni. I use 150s with a geared hub now and I can climb anything in Colorado. I don't use a brake and I think with proper spinning techniques brakes are unnecessary, even on steep grades, unless of course you want to stop. 150s give me plenty of leverage for slowing down when I am geared up and I kind of like the simplicity of not having a brake. If I did not have a geared hub I'd probably work toward climbing with shorter cranks. I recommend putting on a multi-position crankset on and experimenting. I often would climb peaks and passes in Colorado in 150s and descend in 125s. Now with my super Guni I just do everything in 150s. Riding geared up for hill climbs has made me a true believer. There is nothing finer than reaching a summit and popping it into that higher gear and pushing the limits on the descent. It has changed my uni experience significantly and I cannot imagine going back to a single speed coker. By the way, the Mount Evans Hillclimb is the premiere hillclimb race the state. 28 miles of climbing to the highest paved road in North America, topping out at 14,000 feet. I would be great to have a crowd of uni hillclimbers July 18 this year! Put it on your calendars! -- osmundo ------------------------------------------------------------------------ osmundo's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/13723 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/58221 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#28
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need hill climbing advice
harper;733651 wrote: You're using 35% as the average grade. It's not, it's the peak grade. By definition, the grade at the peak would be zero. -- U-Turn Weep in the dojo... laugh on the battlefield. -- Dave Stockton ------------------------------------------------------------------------ U-Turn's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/691 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/58221 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#29
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need hill climbing advice
One thing I didn't see mentioned was the importance of handlebars. Depending on the length of your cranks and size of your wheel you will at some point (probably between 12% and 24% grade) reach a point where it is provably impossible to climb the hill without pulling up on the seat. If, for sake of argument, you have 6" cranks and a wheel with a radius of 18" (i.e.; a Coker wheel) then when your pedals are horizontal and you have all of your weight on the front pedal you will be in equilibrium with the hill if it is a 1 in 3 grade (1 meter of rise for every 3 meters of road distance). If the hill is any steeper then you will roll backwards even with all of your weight on the forward crank. And, remember that this point is when you have the maximum leverage. With the pedals vertical you have no leverage, and the average leverage over a full rotation is 2/pi of the maximum (the proof is simple and I have scribbled it in the margin of my web browser). And, the weight of the unicycle is dead weight and makes the leverage worse. Therefore the steepest hill that can be climbed if you apply just your weight to the pedals with 6" cranks on a 36" wheel is somewhat less than a 2/3pi grade or 21%. Shorter cranks means you can't climb such a steep hill. Expert riders routinely ignore this restriction, by grabbing on to their seat and pulling up, thus letting them apply forces greater than their own bodyweight to the pedals. It's actually pretty amazing -- in order to climb a really steep hill "all" you need to do is a series of one-legged squats while carrying weights and while doing incredibly delicate adjustments so that you can maintain your balance even through the dead-zone where you necessarily decelerate. A heavy unicycle makes this much trickier. Less than perfect riding skills also complicated it a bit. -- Bruce Dawson ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Bruce Dawson's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/1299 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/58221 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#30
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need hill climbing advice
Bruce Dawson;1158480 wrote: One thing I didn't see mentioned was the importance of handlebars. ... ... Expert riders routinely ignore this restriction, by grabbing on to their seat and pulling up, thus letting them apply forces greater than their own bodyweight to the pedals ... Use of handlebars on the left and seat pull on the right ... +-------------------------------------------------------------------+ |Filename: stage1Joe02.jpg | |Download: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/30415 | +-------------------------------------------------------------------+ -- bungeejoe ------------------------------------------------------------------------ bungeejoe's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/11677 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/58221 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
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