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#11
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Changing my chainrings - help
JS 32c. 35c is prob too wide for the frame. loosening spokes is similar to reducing air pressure for loose surfaces in 4WD Is kenda shipping tires to AU ? is AU behind or ahead. AU has the Chinese connection but we USA assume AU is backwards |
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#12
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Changing my chainrings - help
On Wednesday, January 1, 2014 10:10:37 PM UTC-5, James wrote:
On 02/01/14 13:57, wrote: DUH heuristic. take 1/4 turn off standard. James will unwind only. Spoke elasticity is not changed by spoke tension. Avocado has unwound already. slicks wider than what ? Wider than whatever the OP is presently using. I was guessing 23mm as the de facto standard. ureating too much wallabee again. You are not eating enough. -- JS ooooooooooooooo try this one http://www.bentrideronline.com/messa...p/t-43129.html |
#13
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Changing my chainrings - help
As already suggested, a new crankset would probably be the easiest way to get low gears without too much change. Compact cranksets are sold with 50/34 chainrings. Combined with your current 13-28 8 speed cassette or freewheel, should work OK. If its a cassette, then look at maybe getting a 13-32 or 14-32 or 12-32 cassette. Along with the compact crankset.
Wider tires will help comfort. Wide as possible. 28mm or 32mm or 34mm. Assuming you have 700C wheels now. If 27inch, then look for some 1.25inch wide tires. Squishy soft saddles are a bad idea. Wider saddle could be good though. But saddles should be hard on top. Not soft saddles. Big wide soft tires are good for comfort. On Wednesday, January 1, 2014 11:57:00 AM UTC-6, Thomas Lewis wrote: This past year I've returned to riding after about 20 years of inactivity.. I put about 1,200 miles on my old schwinn 564 Aluminum this past summer and loved every minute of it. However I find that the 53/39 8speed 13/28 is a little too demanding at my age (66). Any recommendations on what to switch to? I believe the rear wheel has a 126mm spread , so I don't think I can go to a 9 speed rear cassette. Also, the ride is a bit harsh on my old bones. Any ideas on how to soften the ride up? Thanks Tom |
#14
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Changing my chainrings - help
On Thursday, January 2, 2014 7:39:25 PM UTC-5, wrote:
Wider tires will help comfort. Wide as possible. 28mm or 32mm or 34mm. Assuming you have 700C wheels now. If 27inch, then look for some 1.25inch wide tires. I agree with wide tires, with the caveat that they need to be good ones. I'm sure the OP knows not to buy them at *-mart, but someone reading this months from now may not know that. I've done fine with inexpensive Panaracer Pasela tires, except for maybe a few more flats than I expected. But there are a few wide tire brands that are certainly more expensive, and may be more supple. It would be nice to have a rule of thumb for maximum tire width for a given frame. I usually find the clearance is tightest between the chainstays, close to the bottom bracket, and I look for at least 3mm (1/8") clearance on each side, so a tire width 6mm or 1/4" less than the measured space. But others may find less clearance at other places, say at a low rear brake bridge, or in the crotch of a "performance" oriented fork, especially a carbon fiber one. I did get a tire surprise once. A new tire that barely gave adequate clearance at the start of a long tour started scraping my chainstays after about 400 miles. It had actually grown in width. I had to change to the next narrower width at that point. Squishy soft saddles are a bad idea. Wider saddle could be good though. But saddles should be hard on top. Not soft saddles. Big wide soft tires are good for comfort. There are suspension seat posts, and some people say carbon fiber seat posts help for shock absorption. Also: http://www.bicyclinglife.com/PracticalCycling/Sore.htm - Frank Krygowski |
#15
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Changing my chainrings - help
On 02/01/2014 03:53, wrote:
loosening spokes is similar to reducing air pressure for loose surfaces in 4WD It is completely different. As far as we need worry for cycling spoke stiffness is constant with tension provided that the spokes remains in tension and do not get over tensioned to the point of plasticity. --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: --- |
#16
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Changing my chainrings - help
As far as we need worry for cycling spoke stiffness is constant with gnaw...and for FK..man wants to ride his bicycle not pursue mechanical engineering. tire needs 1/4" ech side minimum...35c/32c. 14/15/14 spokes are analogous to loosening the current spokes \. |
#17
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Changing my chainrings - help
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#18
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Changing my chainrings - help
On Monday, January 6, 2014 8:57:49 AM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote:
32C minimum? I've ridden 22mm tubulars for over 40 years. When will any problems start to appear? In life in general, problems tend to appear soon after a person says "I've never had any problems." It's one of the corollaries of Murphy's Law. Here's hoping you (and I) will continue to prove Mr. Murphy wrong. - Frank Krygowski |
#19
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Changing my chainrings - help
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#20
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Changing my chainrings - help
On Monday, January 6, 2014 8:57:49 AM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote:
On 1/6/2014 6:40 AM, wrote: As far as we need worry for cycling spoke stiffness is constant with gnaw...and for FK..man wants to ride his bicycle not pursue mechanical engineering. tire needs 1/4" ech side minimum...35c/32c. 14/15/14 spokes are analogous to loosening the current spokes \. 32C minimum? I've ridden 22mm tubulars for over 40 years. When will any problems start to appear? -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 222222222222222222222222222 Muzi ride 22c's in the snow on the Kestrel ? Poster's Schwinn max tire width IS 32c ? 35c is tight leaving no room for displacement during a casual ride. Never ridden a 35c caws of this tightness, looked but too tight. doahn take that the wrong way OK ? |
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