Need advice on bottom bracket repair

On Sunday, January 8, 2017 at 11:54:40 AM UTC-5, Theodore Heise wrote:
On Sun, 8 Jan 2017 08:05:28 -0800 (PST),
wrote:
On Saturday, January 7, 2017 at 6:33:31 PM UTC-8, Theodore Heise wrote:
Hi all,

I have an early 1990s Rodriguez tandem with a rear bottom
bracket in serious need of overhaul. The cranks flop
severely.

I've pulled the cranks and the lock ring on the left side, but
the adjustable cup won't come out. It turns about a quarter
turn, but then gets too stiff to turn further. It has no
flats for a wrench instead having holes for turning with a pin
spanner--so I'm unable to put a lot of force on it.

I've soaked it with WD40, but still no joy. Any advice for
me?

Ted, it all depends on what confidence you have in your
mechanical ability and if you're dumb enough, strike that,
willing to buy a tool that you're probably never going to use
again.

http://tinyurl.com/hcds8af

This is NOT a magic bullet and as john has recommended you have
have to work it back and forth until you finally free it.

Turns out I already had this type of tool--didn't remember it,
because it's been a *long* time since I used it last. I was able
to get it turned a bit farther with this rigid piin spanner, but
unfortunately, I broke one of the pins in trying. Too bad I
didn't see your caution first. I will see if my LBS has the
replacemennt pins.

As an aside, the Park SPA-1 (that Sheldon also recommends) came
first to my mind, because I use it periodically to adjust the
eccentrics on both of my tandems.


The modern sealed bottom brackets with the spline is a whole not
easier to install and remove.

I intend to replace the whole mess with a sealed cartridge BB, if
I can only get the old hardware out.

Thanks for the good advice!

--
Ted Heise Bloomington, IN, USA
I can get the old hardware out!

propane torch or heat gun ....when 'it' jambs, 'it' either loosens with back n forth gentle screw unscrewing in the correct direction...your install may have reverse threads ? or failing a gentle action with copious PC Blaster which isnot penetrating oil ...uneeda torch.

the caws of this is threads have a designed space..allowing loosening turning in n out ...between female n male threads.

when grolf n fargge acculumlate in there there's no more room for screwing in an out .....more pressure jambs more grolf ahead of the unthreading.

if rust what you have is a space designed for lubricant or locktite not rust.