need hill climbing advice

wobbling bear;1159973 wrote:

curiously I can climb longer with 125 cranks on a 20" or 29" wheel than
with 145 cranks on a 24" (dead spot?)



sorry. bit of a newbie here. this terminology is new to me. What's a
"dead spot"?
You also used that term in your climbing tips on AU, Ken.
(nice tips. thanks)


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When your cranks are vertical you have the least control. Hence "dead"
spot.


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skilewis74

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time do it along the way.- Bob Burnquist

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Street'
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As Ken said your ability to effectively use longer cranks is partially
dependent on your height.

W/ long cranks It often feels like I'm pedaling a box. Different
things can contribute to this: your leg length, wheel size, the wheel's
inertia. The more of each of these the less "box" feeling there will
be. For example my 24" Muni w/ 170's and it's pretty bad w/ that, where
150's don't but 150's on my 20" also gets that box sensation.

Going from a 2.6" tire to a 3" (heavier and more inertia) on my Muni
decreased, but didn't eliminate the box feeling noticeably and it was
easier to keep my momentum up moderate climbs. I've ridden a KH 24 w/
165's (3" tire) and I was surprised at only 5 mm shorter, I went from
significant box feeling to none. So just a small change in crank size
could have significant effect on pedaling smoothly, dependent on your
leg length.


--
skilewis74

Ride everywhere and never just ride anywhere. If you can ride where you
are going within a hour, do it, and if you can do a trick 50-75% of the
time do it along the way.- Bob Burnquist

What next? 'IUF skill levels'
(http://www.unicycling.org/iuf/levels/)*'
Street'
(http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/The_Unicyclopedia/Street)*'unicycletips.com'
(http://unicycletips.com/)*'Trials class system'
(http://tinyurl.com/yqpvxk)*'Trials Building'
(http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64235)
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Buck;1159812 wrote:
I want to get an odometer for my 36 inch wheel, any suggestions? I have
a cat eye wireless for my fixed gear and wanted to use that but the
calibration rations only go up to 700mm.



I use the CatEye Enduro. It will accommodate 36" wheels. It is wired
(non-wireless).

Geoff


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naturequack

monocycle monstrosity
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naturequack;1160441 wrote:
I use the CatEye Enduro. It will accommodate 36" wheels. It is wired
(non-wireless).

Geoff



+1
I have the same thing.Works great!


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sxbud138
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bungeejoe;1158609 wrote:
Use of handlebars on the left and seat pull on the right ...



Wow, rider in front looks clipped in.


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Thanks for the advise on the odometers. Another free mounting question
on the 36'' I will try to duplicate all my actions and sometimes I am
able to free mount on the first try and sometimes will not. I tilt the
uni down to @ 30 degrees, the fork is splitting the wheel mount bolt.
The mounting foot pedal is @ 1 inch below horizontal ( right foot in my
case). I will step up lightly with my right foot as I hold the seat
with my right hand. As my butt reaches the seat and my left foot plants
on the other pedal I release my right hand off of the seat and thrust my
left hand out to contract auto rotation and create forward momentum. I
think of this as
1. step
2. grab
3. leap
4.plant
5. release
6. ride
However (epically if someone is watching) this does not always work.

Any ideas to become more consistent.


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Practice is the key to consistency. I often mount how you do but prefer
a running jump mount when trying to start on a moderate up-slope.

A running jump mount can be scary at first but it is really nice when
you get used to it. It is great to already have some momentum when you
start to pedal.

If the hill is too steep I just run to the top.

I had a cheep german made bike computer that worked well, but I can't
remember what brand it was. If you can't get one that handles 36" tires
you could get a second magnet and half the rollout value.


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I am NOT an expert but FWIW below is a link to a video of me doing at
rolling mount of my new Coker. You can pause the frames and see the
process pretty clear. Is it good technique? I have no clue. But it works
for me:
http://vimeo.com/2641121


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Regarding the physics, you are also ignoring that the dead spot is not
truly dead. Many riders learn to articulate their ankles and pull their
feet in a manner similar to wiping your shoes on a carpet. These tricks
effectively allow power, even with vertical pedals.


dtecum;1159831 wrote:
It is much easier to go up a hill by going from side to side. Why bother
stressing out the legs and lungs. The first guy I ever saw on a uni went
from side to side and by the time he arrived at the top he said he felt
fine. ANY hill can be conquered by riding side to side. I think sailors
call it tacking!!



Any muni rider will tell you this is not true, as eventually, you
strike your pedals when riding anywhere other than straight down a
slope. On a 24x3 muni with 150 cranks, this happens around a 30-40%
grade. Also, on city streets, it's a great way to get hit by cars.

Breathing and relaxing, just like any exercise guys. As for mounting,
just remind yourself how hard it is to do, and then use that as
motivation not to fall.


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