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#11
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Final steps when chain cleaning
Werehatrack:
If drying the chain became a regular ritual, I'd rinse in 99% isopropanol (rubbing alcohol). Acetone would work better but it costs more. How does this work? Does that stuff replace the water and then evaporate? Water and isopropyl alcohol are soluble in each other; using the alcohol as a rinse replaces most of the water with the alcohol, which then evaporates rapidly; the remaining amount of water is then usually so slight that it quickly evaporates as well. I have used this method in other applications. (I generally use denatured alcohol, though, because it's cheaper.) It's more than that: alcohol is hydrophilic, which means it readily absorbs water. When alcohol evaporates, it takes the water with it. That's why skin becomes dry after having alcohol evaporate on it. |
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#12
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Final steps when chain cleaning
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#13
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Final steps when chain cleaning
On Sun, 27 Jul 2003 14:56:41 GMT, "mark"
wrote: I experimented with waxing chains for a while- I found that the safest method of melting the wax was a double boiler. Not hot enough to displace water. An electric frying pan and about 300 degrees works great. Do it outside. Deep fry the chain don't boil it. |
#14
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Final steps when chain cleaning
Do you have access to an air compressor? you could try spraying it out.
May you have the wind at your back. And a really low gear for the hills! Chris Chris'Z Corner "The Website for the Common Bicyclist": http://www.geocities.com/czcorner |
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Final steps when chain cleaning
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#16
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Final steps when chain cleaning
On Sun, 27 Jul 2003 14:32:23 GMT, Werehatrack
wrote: say for sure. The principal problems with the method lie in the area of heating the wax without running the risk of igniting it. He Easy, if you care to apply some money to the problem. Get the machine whose purpose is specifically to heat that wax without igniting it. These can be gotten at any beauty-supply store. My girlfriend is a manicurist and has such a machine. The wax may be cheaper from a hardware store than from the beauty store, but hey...wouldn't you want a floral or lemon scented chain on your bike? -- Rick Onanian |
#17
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Final steps when chain cleaning
On Mon, 28 Jul 2003 11:44:17 -0400, Rick Onanian
may have said: On Sun, 27 Jul 2003 14:32:23 GMT, Werehatrack wrote: say for sure. The principal problems with the method lie in the area of heating the wax without running the risk of igniting it. He Easy, if you care to apply some money to the problem. Get the machine whose purpose is specifically to heat that wax without igniting it. These can be gotten at any beauty-supply store. My girlfriend is a manicurist and has such a machine. The wax may be cheaper from a hardware store than from the beauty store, but hey...wouldn't you want a floral or lemon scented chain on your bike? And no unsightly chain hair, either! -- My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail. Yes, I have a killfile. If I don't respond to something, it's also possible that I'm busy. |
#19
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Final steps when chain cleaning
In article ,
says... I ride a Trek Liquid 20 in Singapore. That means inordinate amounts of mud and water. I've been wondering about the cleaning and lubricating process. I end up doing things the way Park Tools advocates... http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/CM5.shtml Where I'm puzzled is the "drying the chain with a rag" bit, after cleaning/rinsing the chain and before lubricating it. The thing I've noticed is, "yeah, I can get the moisture off the plates and things, but if you look in the cracks and crevices, you can see that there is definitely water trapped here and there. All the rag-wiping in the world isn't going to drain it out. I think about the only thing you could do would be to run a hair dryer on the chain. Or perhaps if you let the chain sit out overnight it would mostly evaporate (or rust...) So what should I do? and how long to wait after "wiping with rag" to actually spray on the lubricant? You can do a better job of cleaning the chain by simply removing it and soaking it in your favorite solvent and agitate the container every so often. Then let the chain dry and lube with your favorite lube. Do one link at a time and let the lube soak in. Then wipe the excess lube off with a clean rag. Then re-install the chain. It goes very fast. If you use two chains to rotate on and off your bike, you are never without use of your bike. ----------------- Alex __O _-\,_ (_)/ (_) |
#20
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Final steps when chain cleaning
Alex Rodriguez wrote:
In article , says... I ride a Trek Liquid 20 in Singapore. That means inordinate amounts of mud and water. I've been wondering about the cleaning and lubricating process. I end up doing things the way Park Tools advocates... http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/CM5.shtml Where I'm puzzled is the "drying the chain with a rag" bit, after cleaning/rinsing the chain and before lubricating it. The thing I've noticed is, "yeah, I can get the moisture off the plates and things, but if you look in the cracks and crevices, you can see that there is definitely water trapped here and there. All the rag-wiping in the world isn't going to drain it out. I think about the only thing you could do would be to run a hair dryer on the chain. Or perhaps if you let the chain sit out overnight it would mostly evaporate (or rust...) So what should I do? and how long to wait after "wiping with rag" to actually spray on the lubricant? You can do a better job of cleaning the chain by simply removing it and soaking it in your favorite solvent and agitate the container every so often. Then let the chain dry and lube with your favorite lube. Do one link at a time and let the lube soak in. Then wipe the excess lube off with a clean rag. Then re-install the chain. It goes very fast. If you use two chains to rotate on and off your bike, you are never without use of your bike. When I do this, my chain doesn't last as long as when I use one of the on bike cleaners. I tried turpentine for 2 chains. David |
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