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#1
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rebuilding my wheel
I'd still go with what I put down at the end of that thread: 'here' (http://tinyurl.com/lnjt). -- U-Turn - Mounting a Revolution Weep in the dojo... laugh in the battlefield. 'Strongest Coker Wheel in the World' (http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/albup39) -- Dave Stockton ------------------------------------------------------------------------ U-Turn's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/691 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/27460 |
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#2
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rebuilding my wheel
thanks u-turn, unfortunatly i`m realy fussy for details when i`m embarking on something new. so i`ve got a few more questions.... what you said was: We at the Ordinary Bike Shop just built two of these. Profile hub, Alex DX32 19" rim, 4-cross. The rim ERD was 376, the spoke length was about 185mm, spokes were 14g of type DT Swiss. was that spoke length exactly 185mm? i ve never bought spokes before so i don`t know if they come in 1mm increments or .5mm or whatever. and did you use DT nipples?, i hear that these are a bit smaller than normal. and require the spokes to be 5mm longer. i ned to know all the details so i can walk into francophone bike shop and walk out with the spokes and nipples and be sure they are the right size. thanks i realy need to know -- evilewan - death or glory -- evilewan. see the rec.sport.unicycling maintainance FAQ @ http://evilewan.unicyclist.com/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ evilewan's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/1047 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/27460 |
#3
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rebuilding my wheel
I didn't order those spokes but I'll talk tomorrow to the fellow who did and get right back to you. -- U-Turn - Mounting a Revolution Weep in the dojo... laugh in the battlefield. 'Strongest Coker Wheel in the World' (http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/albup39) -- Dave Stockton ------------------------------------------------------------------------ U-Turn's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/691 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/27460 |
#4
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rebuilding my wheel
186mm, by my calculations... assuming I've managed to find the correct dimensions Spokes for mountain bikes tend to come in 2mm increments. Presumably for smaller wheels you get smaller increments... I don't think you need to alter the spoke length due to the nipples, and certainly not by as much as 5mm. I think the spokes should extend the same distance regardless, i.e. protrude just into the rim. Adrian. -- Adrian - Experienced Faller Offer ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Adrian's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/4008 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/27460 |
#5
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rebuilding my wheel
i found a guide to wheelbuilding he http://tinyurl.com/lw58 somebody else might find it usefull too. its from a bmx site. also, does anybody know anything about this "interlace under the third" thing that he talks about apparently to make the wheel more resistant to grinds, if this works shurley it would be a good plan for trials wheels too. -- evilewan - death or glory -- evilewan. see the rec.sport.unicycling maintainance FAQ @ http://evilewan.unicyclist.com/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ evilewan's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/1047 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/27460 |
#6
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rebuilding my wheel
I don't see how that would make the wheel grind-resistant. Grabs and grinds abrade the spokes and catch crossings; this technique increases the number of crossings. That last photo is pretty unconvincing, as far as whether the wheel is built well or not. There are large kinks in some of the spokes and there has been no spoke line correction at the nipples. There are huge curves in some spokes between crossings. Although he states that this is a finished wheel, it looks like a wheel that has not been tensioned yet. I think I'll stick to the standard texts. -- U-Turn - Mounting a Revolution Weep in the dojo... laugh in the battlefield. 'Strongest Coker Wheel in the World' (http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/albup39) -- Dave Stockton ------------------------------------------------------------------------ U-Turn's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/691 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/27460 |
#7
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rebuilding my wheel
Ok, so with a alex dx32 3x profile 36º wheel, I used 176's. that's DT straight gauge. not problems at all, I however havent really gotten to test it yet. Just incase you havent figured it out yet, or for future reference. -- Max_Dingemans - Hey Look, who's that? "And when the sky darkens and the prospect is war Who's given the gun and then pushed to the fore And expected to die for the land of our birth Though we've never owned one lousy handful of earth" ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Max_Dingemans's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/1981 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/27460 |
#8
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rebuilding my wheel
How true does a unicycle wheel actually have to be? Assuming you're not running brakes. I'd've thought you could get away with quite a lot, assuming you can get the general tension approximately right, for strength purposes. -- Adrian - Experienced Faller Offer ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Adrian's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/4008 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/27460 |
#9
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rebuilding my wheel
Well we don't have the info (sorry), but I have never found Roger's spoke calculator to be wrong, giving 186mm for a 4-cross. I personally wouldn't hesitate to order spokes based on that information. I ignore the nipple length thing. A unicycle wheel for a uni without brakes can get away with more radial and lateral wobble than one with brakes. However, in general, wheel strength is a function of: 1. wheel geometry 2. rim geometry and quality 3. spoke quality 4. average wheel tension 5. max spoke tension 6. min spoke tension If one assumes that (1) is good, and that (2) and (3) are valid, then the wheel strength depends on average wheel tension (4)primarily, and max spoke tension (5) and min spoke tension (6) secondarily. (5) is important because if (4) is high, then the spoke with the highest tension is the one most likely to fail due to overstress. (6) is important because if (4) is too low, then the spoke with the lowest tension is going to fret most and fail (at the spoke head) soonest. So not only is average tension important, but also keeping the max and min as close to the average as possible. Since by assumption (2) we have a "perfect" rim, basically excursions from average will show up as wobble. Although this is a simplification, it is a useful one. Basically it says that with a good wheel design and good components, all the spokes should be nearly the same tension when the wheel is true. Conversely, if the wheel is not true, then the spokes have variations in tension that weaken the wheel. At the rim joint there will almost always be tension excursions that are unavoidable. -- U-Turn - Mounting a Revolution Weep in the dojo... laugh in the battlefield. 'Strongest Coker Wheel in the World' (http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/albup39) -- Dave Stockton ------------------------------------------------------------------------ U-Turn's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/691 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/27460 |
#10
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rebuilding my wheel
166 2 cross 174 3 cross 183 4 cross I'd go with 3 cross - 4 cross wont work unless you re-drill the rim holes at an angle. Leo White -- leow - Unicycling oldbie TO I WHEEL - my favourite anagram ------------------------------------------------------------------------ leow's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/981 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/27460 |
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