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#12
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daveornee wrote in message ... Wrote: While snuffling around the internet, I found this page, which has links to two pictures that show what seem like unusual wheel-building details: http://tinyurl.com/4tx6h or http://tinyurl.com/4tx6h Click on the blue words in : The builder adjusts spoke line and may add washers between the spoke head and hub flange to limit movement within the hub hole." Then click on the blue words in: The more stable the elbow within the hub hole the less likely it will "work harden" and break, a common cause of spoke failure. Using a special punch, the builder sets the spoke head in the hub hole to assure it is well seated and won't move when the wheel is tensioned . . . Are the washers and the punch common wheel-building techniques, snake-oil, or what? Carl Fogel "Why do spokes break? Spokes always break as the result of an irregularity in the wheel spider. Cause 1 Play between the hub and the spoke. Each spoke is subjected to one load cycle (loading/unloading) during each complete rotation of the wheel. Each spoke in a bicycle wheel that has been ridden over 2000 km, for example, has experienced one million load changes. If there is even the slightest play between the spoke and the hub flange, a broken spoke is just a question of time. The spoke continually jerks back and forth in the flange, which subjects the spoke elbow to massive stress. This causes the material to become brittle, the spoke can no longer bear the load and breaks at the elbow. Remedy Place washers underneath the head of any spoke where play is felt at the hub flange. " Above quoted from the FAQ section of DT Swiss "Hub hole suitability Hold the hub flange horizontally. Put the spoke, with the head inside, a little higher. While centring, you should push on the hub lightly; the spokes will easily adjust themselves. (Attention: do not push so hard that the spokes bend!). Using oversized hub holes is an easy solution. However, this will cause a lot of play and is not recommended. Consider the use of spoke washers Too much tension on the spoke head will also cause problems. Ideal hub hole Ø equals spoke thread Ø + 0.1 mm (eg. spoke thread on 14G/2 mm measures thread 2.25 mm + 0.1 = 2.35 mm: max. hole Ø 2.50 mm)." Above quoted from the "checklist" section of Sapim's site. The thickness (from 2.0 to 4.0 mm on samples I have measured) of the flange and spoke hole size help in determining the use of spoke head washers. Also, there are at least 3 different spoke head to elbow dimension on DT spokes varying at least .85 mm from shortest to longest. Since, there are these differences and differences in hub flange thicknesses and spoke hole diameters as well as spoke diameters at the hub end; you must make some accomodation for these differences. I will disagree with Jobst's statement that once a spoke is tensioned it's elbow doesn't move. I move them by laterally,torsionally, and radially loading the wheel. I minimize the movement by spoke alignment and proper tensioning. I also use spoke head washers and setting techniques to minimize the movement. And to Mark's comment on " The punch is snake oil, and can actually damage the flange if over done." ... yes you could do damage to the flange if it is ovedone, but I don't think we are talking about holding the hub in a vise or on an anvil while hitting the puch with a metal hammer. I give the spoke heads a solid strike with a properly aligned puch fron the blow of a plastic headed hammer. I have yet to find a hub with too small a hole to fit the roll threaded end (2.25 mm) of a 14 g spoke through. I have yet to find a hub where the flange is too thick.... even the 4.0 mm ones from Phil Wood. I still don't think there is snake oil or even linseed oil involved here. I have not found it necessary to use setting tools other than my fingers, bending the outbond spokes back against the hub. Your other remarks I agree with. Trevor |
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Trevor Jeffrey wrote:
Mark McMaster wrote in message ... The idea that spokes "work harden and break" in use is a common misconception by those who do not understand metal fatigue. It is unfortunately common that the mechanisms of wheel failure are not understood by wheelbuilding "experts". Take for example this other nugget of wisdom in the web page: Please explain how a spoke subjected to a rocking motion eventually fails due to fatigue, preferably in ten words. What rocking motion are you referring to? Spokes in a properly tensioned wheel do not rock. Another straw man. I suppose this goes back to the example you raised of bending a paper clip until it breaks. Although that example is often used it is not applicable to bicycle spokes. The paper clip example involves repeated bending the spoke plastically, well beyond its yield point (low cycle post yield fatigue). That does not happen to spokes in a wheel, which maintain an average stress well below their yield. So, I guess we can add metal fatigue to the ever growing list of mechanical concepts you don't understand. You really should quit while you're behind. Mark McMaster |
#14
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carl- Are the washers and the punch common wheel-building
techniques, snake-oil, or what? BRBR Not at all. Washers are an important tool when the hub flange holes are BIG, like in first gen Powertap. And any wheelbuilder worth their salt ensures the spoke head is flush, using a small punch. Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302 (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene" |
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Dan Daniel wrote:
Can you say more about this punch thing? It's new to me. First, what exactly is being done? Some wheel builders use this tool to get the spoke head flush with the hub flange. Being an armature wheel builder I've never seen the need of using one, but since reading this thread I think I will. http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/110/...e/3420ac1l.gif Kenny Lee |
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On Sun, 22 Aug 2004 13:58:34 -0700, Dan Daniel
wrote: Can you say more about this punch thing? It's new to me. First, what exactly is being done? To clarify- I do know what a punch is, and I know how to use one. What I mean is that the use of a punch in wheelbuilding is new to me.... |
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On Mon, 23 Aug 2004 10:44:48 +0800, Kenny Lee wrote:
Dan Daniel wrote: Can you say more about this punch thing? It's new to me. First, what exactly is being done? Some wheel builders use this tool to get the spoke head flush with the hub flange. Being an armature wheel builder I've never seen the need of using one, but since reading this thread I think I will. What in this thread has convinced you? http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/110/...e/3420ac1l.gif Ok, thanks.... I do know what a punch is and how they are used in general |
#20
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Trevor Jeffrey wrote:
wrote in message ... Well that's bogus. Spoke will not work harden in use although they may fail from fatigue. I think it's old mechanics jargon and myth and lore from the days when fatigue failures were routinely attributed to "look the axle crystallized and broke here" when in fact a fatigue failure always exposes the crystal structure because it is inter-grain boundaries that fail most easily in a metal. The use of the two words 'work harden' are a perfectly acceptable way in which to describe what happens to a spoke which has been bent back and forth a few million times so it is brittle. Then it snaps. The dislocations can be seen with 20x magnification most usually on the outside of the fracture but sometimes upon the inside also, dependent on setting, which show that bending moments existed before fracture. Work hardening: An increase in hardness and yield strength that is due to plastic deformation. Spokes do not get "bent back and forth" beyond yield during the normal use of a wheel, and if they did they would typically fail somewhere between 10 and 100 cycles, not a few million cycles. Using the term "work hardening" as a synonym for "fatigue" is not acceptable usage, and does not help your credibility. -- Tom Sherman |
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