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I know this has been beat to death here --- but
I was wondering how it was doing. Actually this is one for Carl Fogel. I was
reading some of the old threads about the Fury Roadmaster and was curious how it was holding up, or if you had to ditch it yet? I was in the X-Mart yesterday and looked at the current model for $49.99 and was thinking of getting one just for some fun! Ken -- Remove "-dispose-trash" for email address My personal webstie: http://kcm-home.tripod.com/ My blog: http://mind-dribble.blogspot.com/ |
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On Fri, 29 Apr 2005 07:29:40 -0400, "Ken"
wrote: I was wondering how it was doing. Actually this is one for Carl Fogel. I was reading some of the old threads about the Fury Roadmaster and was curious how it was holding up, or if you had to ditch it yet? I was in the X-Mart yesterday and looked at the current model for $49.99 and was thinking of getting one just for some fun! Cheap bike fun, go rescue cool old bikes that are gonna be put to sleep if nobody adopts 'em. Pawn shops, yard sales, flea markets and wandering crack heads will often have bikes that were once incredibly cool but are now unloved and on their way to the landfill. In the last year I've rescued a Fisher, a Haro and an original Diamondback for under $40 each. Every one of those bikes when put in working order works as great as it ever did, which is a hell of a lot better than any department store bike could ever aspire to. None has needed much work either. Often just lubrication, including of course the Shimano Shifter Repair Kit, WD40 with its straw. Sometimes I've have had to replace A cable or just 'cause I'm a fearful wimp some brake pads. There's just one rule - only bike store bikes, preferably not the bottom of that class and you'll have a successful outcome. Even if you have to buy parts, it's okay, they're cheap. All these online and mail order retailers corrupt our perception of the cost of parts by hyping only what they want to sell. Real bike parts are mostly inexpensive. Save a classic. Ron |
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"RonSonic" wrote in message ... On Fri, 29 Apr 2005 07:29:40 -0400, "Ken" wrote: I was wondering how it was doing. Actually this is one for Carl Fogel. I was reading some of the old threads about the Fury Roadmaster and was curious how it was holding up, or if you had to ditch it yet? I was in the X-Mart yesterday and looked at the current model for $49.99 and was thinking of getting one just for some fun! Cheap bike fun, go rescue cool old bikes that are gonna be put to sleep if nobody adopts 'em. Pawn shops, yard sales, flea markets and wandering crack heads will often have bikes that were once incredibly cool but are now unloved and on their way to the landfill. In the last year I've rescued a Fisher, a Haro and an original Diamondback for under $40 each. Every one of those bikes when put in working order works as great as it ever did, which is a hell of a lot better than any department store bike could ever aspire to. None has needed much work either. Often just lubrication, including of course the Shimano Shifter Repair Kit, WD40 with its straw. Sometimes I've have had to replace A cable or just 'cause I'm a fearful wimp some brake pads. There's just one rule - only bike store bikes, preferably not the bottom of that class and you'll have a successful outcome. Even if you have to buy parts, it's okay, they're cheap. All these online and mail order retailers corrupt our perception of the cost of parts by hyping only what they want to sell. Real bike parts are mostly inexpensive. Save a classic. Ron Yeah I agree with you on the recycle bit, I have recycled a few, and generally they work out pretty well, my kick around bike is a Western Flyer. I am not a big MTB fan but I thought having one to ride once and a while might be fun. And 50 bucks at the X-Mart seemed like a decent deal. Maybe I will go check out the local Sal-Army and Goodwill places. Ken |
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On Fri, 29 Apr 2005 07:29:40 -0400, "Ken"
wrote: I was wondering how it was doing. Actually this is one for Carl Fogel. I was reading some of the old threads about the Fury Roadmaster and was curious how it was holding up, or if you had to ditch it yet? I was in the X-Mart yesterday and looked at the current model for $49.99 and was thinking of getting one just for some fun! Ken Dear Ken, The Fury Roadmaster still looks reasonably pleased with itself. Of course, mine is the older and far more valuable $54 model, but I expect that numerous technological improvements have accompanied the reduced price. Apart from being stripped down to racing weight by the removal of reflectors and sidestand, the only necessary modification was a longer seat post for a 6'1" rider who is somewhat older and heavier than the typical rider aged 10 to 17. Racing slicks are available for about $20 at WalMart, but are noticeably smaller than the ferocious standard knobbies, so the reduced rolling resistance comes at the price of lower gearing. A complete set of spare parts is available for about $50. Carl Fogel |
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On Fri, 29 Apr 2005 18:14:11 GMT, "Bill Sornson"
wrote: wrote: Racing slicks are available for about $20 at WalMart, but are noticeably smaller than the ferocious standard knobbies, so the reduced rolling resistance comes at the price of lower gearing. Dear Carl, Huh? Bill S. Dear Bill, Slicks roll more easily than knobbies, so they speed you up. But the WalMart slicks are noticeably smaller than the knobbies that come on a Fury Roadmaster, so you're rolling along on tiny little tires with the same gearing, which slows you down. The Fury is, after all, undergeared for level pavement, and switching to slicks make it seem as if you've lost high gear. The slicks turned out to be so small that I actually had to expand the range of my inch-to-millimeter tire-table spreadsheet for speedometer calibration. Overall, the slicks ran faster, but some of the rolling resistance advantage was offset by the even more frantic pedal cadence on a level route. http://groups.google.co.uk/groups?se...&output=gplain http://groups.google.co.uk/groups?hl...4ax.com&rnum=1 Carl Fogel |
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wrote: (clip) some of the rolling resistance advantage was offset by the even more frantic pedal cadence on a level route. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Bigger chain ring is not feasible on this bike? |
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On Sat, 30 Apr 2005 16:22:56 GMT, "Leo Lichtman"
wrote: wrote: (clip) some of the rolling resistance advantage was offset by the even more frantic pedal cadence on a level route. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Bigger chain ring is not feasible on this bike? Dear Leo, Just as the low-velocity gun of the original Sherman tank could be improved to the high-velocity weapon of the Firefly, so too could a Fury Roadmaster be geared upward. But the effort involved might be similar. Here's Sheldon's table of BCD and center-to-center sizes: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#bcd Under the grime, the Fury's largest chain ring's five mounting holes are noticeably wrong for a Shimano 53-tooth chain-ring's 76.4 mm center-to-center distance. In fact, they appear to be roughly 80 mm apart, center-to-center. (That rattling noise came from the crypt of Tullio Campagnolo.) Assuming that a 53-tooth Campy ring really would fit a Fury Roadmaster, and that Sheldon would be willing to sell one for such ungodly purposes . . . http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/chainrings/135.html Looks like $54.95, plus shipping, a bit high for a $54 bicycle. As for the theoretical gearing improvement, I looked at the original Fury Roadmaster documentation here, rather than counting all those teeth again: http://groups.google.co.uk/groups?se...&output=gplain With its original 2073 mm knobby tire, 165 mm Ashtabula crank, and 48 x 14 gears, the Fury's overall rubber-to-pedal movement ratio was 6.86, requiring 75 rpm at 20 mph. With its new 1975 mm slick, the ratio dropped to 6.53, and demanded 79 rpm for the same 20 mph. By taping a 53-tooth chain-ring firmly to the spider, a 7.21 overall ratio could be achieved and would allow a more leisurely 72 rpm at 20 mph. (I favor a glacial cadence on my touring bike of about 52 rpm at 20 mph, which is why riding the Fury seems so--well, so furious. People who like to spin at 90 rpm can only wonder what the fuss is about. Of course, they wouldn't be caught dead at any rpm on a Fury Roadmaster.) So higher gearing would require a 53-tooth chain-ring, a new and longer chain, and possibly even a new front derailleur capable of handling a 53 x 38 x 28 range, not to mention encircling the Fury's mainmast--er, seat tube. Alas, it appears that the Fury's chain rings were not intended to be replaced. The $54-bicycle concept does not lend itself to extensive or expensive modification. Possibly the manufacturer feared that riders might be tempted to tamper with the purity of the experience. Carl Fogel |
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On Sat, 30 Apr 2005 14:46:32 -0600, wrote:
On Sat, 30 Apr 2005 16:22:56 GMT, "Leo Lichtman" wrote: wrote: (clip) some of the rolling resistance advantage was offset by the even more frantic pedal cadence on a level route. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Bigger chain ring is not feasible on this bike? Dear Leo, Just as the low-velocity gun of the original Sherman tank could be improved to the high-velocity weapon of the Firefly, so too could a Fury Roadmaster be geared upward. But the effort involved might be similar. Here's Sheldon's table of BCD and center-to-center sizes: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#bcd Under the grime, the Fury's largest chain ring's five mounting holes are noticeably wrong for a Shimano 53-tooth chain-ring's 76.4 mm center-to-center distance. In fact, they appear to be roughly 80 mm apart, center-to-center. (That rattling noise came from the crypt of Tullio Campagnolo.) Assuming that a 53-tooth Campy ring really would fit a Fury Roadmaster, and that Sheldon would be willing to sell one for such ungodly purposes . . . http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/chainrings/135.html Looks like $54.95, plus shipping, a bit high for a $54 bicycle. As for the theoretical gearing improvement, I looked at the original Fury Roadmaster documentation here, rather than counting all those teeth again: http://groups.google.co.uk/groups?se...&output=gplain With its original 2073 mm knobby tire, 165 mm Ashtabula crank, and 48 x 14 gears, the Fury's overall rubber-to-pedal movement ratio was 6.86, requiring 75 rpm at 20 mph. With its new 1975 mm slick, the ratio dropped to 6.53, and demanded 79 rpm for the same 20 mph. By taping a 53-tooth chain-ring firmly to the spider, a 7.21 overall ratio could be achieved and would allow a more leisurely 72 rpm at 20 mph. (I favor a glacial cadence on my touring bike of about 52 rpm at 20 mph, which is why riding the Fury seems so--well, so furious. People who like to spin at 90 rpm can only wonder what the fuss is about. Of course, they wouldn't be caught dead at any rpm on a Fury Roadmaster.) So higher gearing would require a 53-tooth chain-ring, a new and longer chain, and possibly even a new front derailleur capable of handling a 53 x 38 x 28 range, not to mention encircling the Fury's mainmast--er, seat tube. Alas, it appears that the Fury's chain rings were not intended to be replaced. The $54-bicycle concept does not lend itself to extensive or expensive modification. Possibly the manufacturer feared that riders might be tempted to tamper with the purity of the experience. Surely we can preserve the purity of our essence, er, experience and remedy this misgearing at the other end of the drivetrain. Inasmuch as you seem to have a disgracefully thorough knowledge of this Master of the Road, you probably know whether it is fitted with freewheel or freehub. Cassettes or freewheels can both be had complete and ready to install for about $15 each. No great men of cycling will have to twirl in their coffins and you'll be spared the necessity of spinning like a time trialer just to get to the park. Ron |
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