Holy crap. I broke my KH/Schlumpf Hub.

Have you checked that the bearing holder on the lever arm is tight
enough? Ashley's hub had somewhat similar behavior due to the bearing
holder not being clamped down.


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Not good news given the dough I just spent getting one (24) laced up.
Hope it was a defective hub and not endemic to the whole batch.

JL


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vivalargo
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i think ill just stick to a standard kh36 wen they come out, the hub
sound so much more comlicated to use than i first antisapated


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tholub wrote:
Have you checked that the bearing holder on the lever arm is tight
enough? Ashley's hub had somewhat similar behavior due to the bearing
holder not being clamped down.

I had that exact same problem and the grinding/crunching sound seems
familar, particularly in high gear. You want the usual tightness on the
plain bearing, and very tight on the knurled bearing. The rest sounds
nastier, fingers crossed.


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Welcome to the world of early adopters. If you're lucky, it might
be as simple as what Tom and Mike described above. If not, your hub may
be under warranty, and Florian and Kris are anxious to see what
happened inside your hub. Could have been a defect in the build, or you
may have found a weak spot. My guess is that you might even get a new
one in exchange.

These are complicated mechanisms and I know Florian and surely Kris as
well have worked very hard to make a solid, strong and safe product for
all of us. With the amount of miles I'll be putting on my borrowed
Schlumpf Nimbus 36, it's imperative to know the hub will be reliable,
and that it's extremely unlikely that it will spontaneously freewheel
while I'm going 15 mph or faster. Please keep us posted!


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johnfoss

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mikepenton wrote:
I had that exact same problem (I didn't set it up properly) and the
grinding/crunching sound seems familar, particularly in high gear. You
want the usual tightness on the plain bearing, and very tight on the
knurled bearing. As the setup is new and starting to get bedded in,
unicycles are always worth a few extra-careful check-ups and
re-tightening of components at more regular intervals in the first few
weeks, like a car's or motorbike's first early service.
The rest sounds nastier, fingers crossed.



Same here.

Make sure you tighten the Knurled side really tight. When I first
assembled it I had the same grinding problem where it would just
randomly freewheel, and I just had to tighten those bolts really
tight.

I actually put some loctite on the bolts so that they wouldn't come
loose to prevent that from happening to me while I was riding!

I hope it is just something as simple as that!


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johnfoss wrote:
it's extremely unlikely that it will spontaneously freewheel while I'm
going 15 mph or faster.


Just stand up and ride it like a giant BC Wheel


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Hey all,
I just got email back from Kris, and he gave me the address to ship it
to Florian, and he says it'll get replaced or repaired, so they're
taking care of me. I'm sorry if it sounds up above like I made a huge
stink about it... I did, but __it happens, y'know?

This'll give me a chance to throw those old 102s back on and see what I
can do, I suppose.

Oh, and the question of the tightness around the knurled bearing,
yes, that side I had tightened way, way down, and the other side as
normal. I did checkups and tightenings pretty much every few nights
just making sure things were tight, etc. Maybe, to prevent this much
torque from going on my next hub, I'll avoid REALLY clamping down the
knurled bearing side, and only tighten it enough so that it will slip
just before the gears in the hub would otherwise collapse. (If this is
a design problem instead of a yucky fluke.)

Those of you with geared hubs, though, I wouldn't be afraid of them!
Didn't intend to make anyone leery of your hubs! I'm totally sure that,
riding at any speed, the hub has absolutely no danger of "letting go"
as it did with me, because, for mine to let go, I had to do an
emergency-stop type stop and heard the crunching. Till we know more
about what happened in my hub, I'd just recommend not applying your
full and complete "single-burst back-pedaling power." (I did about 80%
of mine.)


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Do any of you think that there's a mathematical way to figure out the
amount of torque with which to tighten the knurled-bearing-holder bolts
given the amount of pedal torque required to break the hub? We'd need
the coefficient of static friction of the knurled surface with the
frame material, plus knowledge of the amount of compressive force in
the bearing holder as a function of screw-tighten-torque. Methinks that
with those three tidbits we could make a setup that would never break a
hub, and would only cause the bearing to slip.


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Congratulations on your fantastic backpedaling power :-) No really
that's a serious bummer especially when you're training for something
as big as RTL. Good to hear that Florian and Kris are taking care of
the issue though. Frankly, I would have been surprised if they
wouldn't...


tholub wrote:
Have you checked that the bearing holder on the lever arm is tight
enough? Ashley's hub had somewhat similar behavior due to the bearing
holder not being clamped down.



If it wasn't tight enough, would that lock the wheel to the frame (in
that it can't rotate)? Can't see how that would work.

BTW, were these knurled bearings designed to take such a big clamping
force? A regular bearing would deform and then 'grind' if you tighten
the bearing holders even half-hard. So these must be extra-sturdy then.


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