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Chain waxing
On Monday, June 11, 2018 at 7:35:24 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-06-10 11:03, jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, June 10, 2018 at 9:49:56 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-06-10 08:01, jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, June 10, 2018 at 7:36:02 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-06-09 16:22, jbeattie wrote: On Saturday, June 9, 2018 at 8:04:24 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-06-08 10:06, jbeattie wrote: [...] ... She was up at like 2:00 AM this morning going through all my buckets in the garage . . . totally ****ed off at the condition of some of my bike cleaning brushes. So I asked her about the dust under the refrigerator . . . "have you seen that . . . have you? How could any self-respecting wife allow that disgusting accumulation? And your hair in the drain! It's like stringy snot! I want a divorce!" When making bacon and eggs this morning I mentioned a li'l grease spot on the range from yesterday. When I came home late from a fun MTB ride and she still made a very nice dinner. That didn't go over very well :-) Most women are neat freaks while most men would become real slobs if they weren't married to them. Have you seen Lou's garage? You could do surgery on the floor without fear of infection. Is this the guy who ride a bike with only a front brake? My wife has been very patient with the mess I made in the family room downstairs. I've been watching movies and doing heavy bike maintenance for the fleet which doubled when my son moved in after his injury. I'd be hearing about that every day. Though she has accepted that I ride on dirt trails a lot and that there is a fair amount of "trail debris" under the MTB in the garage. As long as none of it moves on its own. I just got back from Universal where I bought a liter of Shimano mineral oil for the hydraulic brakes. It was $4 more than buying 50ml from Bike Gallery. Incroyable -- $17.99 for 50ml. Even from Western, it's $12.75 for 50ml. You can get 1,000ml for anywhere from $18-22 low street price. I didn't even bother price matching at Universal and paid $22. I'll never use all that mineral oil, but I couldn't bear spending so much for 50ml. Maybe I'll sell the left overs on the disk brake black market. Sounds like the rip-off with brake pads. The LBS wants $16 for a pair of cheap resin pads while I buy nice ceramic-based ones for around $2/pair from China, in bulk. Well, as long as there is no brake pad tariff. The pads at the LBS are most likely also made in China, if not at the same factory. An oil change on a Rohloff hub would cost you about the same as an oil change on a car: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tools/ro...-8410/?geoc=US There must be huge profit margins on this stuff and of course they all try to make you captive by requiring to buy at the company store or the warranty is toast. By the way, I tried to buy $9 worth of hydraulic mineral oil made by Finish Line, and the guys at Bike Gallery (who I really like and have been good to me), basically swatted my hand away, saying that Shimano was the only way to go. I think either (1) Shimano has everyone cowed, or (2) Finish Line needs better PR. I think Shimano actually claims that the warranty on the hydraulic discs is voided if you use non-Shimano magical oil. I wonder if they'd do a full forensic investigation with each $100 warranty claim to find out which oil was used, who sold it, whether some sort of embargo was breached and whether the goons need to be sent out. My brakes are simple, they use DOT3 or DOT4 like the ones in our cars do. The quantity needs costs pennies. Shimano made the decision to go with mineral oil for the road discs, which was a legitimate choice, and considering the fill volumes, it saves a lot of waste DOT fluid that absorbs water and has to be tossed. DOT fluid is nasty on paint, etc. I can be sloppy with mineral oil -- use it for massage, laxative, etc., etc. It's multipurpose. DOT has much better performance when things get hot. Which they do on an MTB. Water boils off if you let it. So far I didn't have to change my fluid, just top off a wee bit. It is aggressive towards paint but not that aggressive. Paint is the last thing I'd worry about on my bikes. When doing fluid jobs on the brakes one has to be careful. I never spilled a drop. That's one of the jobs syringes where invented for. Actually, Shimano mineral oil has a higher boiling point than any DOT fluid, and it never changes boiling point. https://bikerumor.com/2013/04/11/tec...-disc-updated/ Scroll to the bottom. It's expensive, but it doesn't go bad -- so that's a plus. I hate having cans or bags of stuff that you have to throw away because they absorb water, like plaster and setting joint compounds, cement, etc. Quote (from your link): "An important point about the hygroscopic nature of DOT Fluid is that by absorbing the water into the fluid it is preventing pockets of water from forming that remain separate from the fluid in the system. Water is heavier and settles to the lowest point in the system, such as the caliper. This means that while the boiling point of the mineral oil remains high, the boiling point of the system is now that of water, only 100C/212F". That where the problem is. The caliper is where things get hot. I use a syringe, but I do get drips and drabs from the fill port or the lever port. Not much. You just wipe it off. Water in DOT boils out. That's what happens in the open systems on motor vehicles. Unfortunately bikes don't have those but if you were truly concerned about having to recycle that miniscule quantity you could just boil it off. Anyhow, I would not mind a Shimano brake system because I don't ride that hard (anymore). However, having seen a guy in front of me lose his front brake on a long downhill was a sobering lesson. Why did he lose his front brake? What sort of fluid was he using? Did he have a leaking lever or caliper? Good pads (organic or metalic)? I don't do super-crazy, dangerous gnarly mountain biking, so I can't speak to what is needed there, but mineral oil has proved to be more than adequate for my road/gravel discs. Shimano also manages heat with its "Ice tech" rotors and finned pads (still not going to lick my rotors after a descent). Plus, for road riding, ordinary rim brakes are fine. I prefer discs in the rain, which was all my riding this weekend. Braking was the least of my concerns. I was much more worried about traction, particularly after a long dry spell. -- Jay Beattie. |
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