Rear Fender

A few months ago bought an old road bike that has horizontal, forward
facing rear drop-outs.

I've refurbished the bike and have been riding it for a month, or so,
now and it is rapidly becoming a favorite.... excepting that it has no
fenders :-(

Now, I can buy a really nice set of "hammered" aluminum fenders here,
for a decent price, but the problem is mounting the rear fender as to
remove the rear wheel the wheel has to slide forward about one inch
for the axle to clear the horizontal drop-outs.

If I mount the rear fender as is usually done with the forward end
bolted to the chain stay bridge the curve of the fender doesn't match
the curve of the tire and (as my grand kids say) it looks dorkey. If
on the other hand I mount the fender to match the curve of the tire
there isn't enough clearance to remove the rear wheel.

Velo Orange sells a "solution" that consists of a longer then usual
bolt with a spring to allow the front end of the fender to move
forward, against spring pressure, to allow the removal of the wheel.
http://tinyurl.com/nw46tv8

But given that there is usually a fender attaching point at the brake
bridge it would appear that this may not be a really a good solution
in that it looks as though one is trying to flex a curved, half round,
fender, that normally doesn't bend.

Has any one had this problem? And what did you do? And are you happy
with the results?

--
cheers,

John B.

On 29/12/2015 02:12, John B. wrote:

Has any one had this problem? And what did you do? And are you happy
with the results?

Not had this problem (the bike with horizontal dropouts seems to be ok -
the SKS plastic mudguards aren't that thick and sit against the bridge,
and can bend a bit if necessary).

However have you considered deflating the tyre? Tedious if you're
removing for transport in a car, but not too bad if you're spannering
(track pump should be to hand) or repairing a puncture (the tyre will
already be flat).

(I do have bikes which need the tyres deflating for wheel removal)

plastic/vinyl shroud abaft seat post

Plastic shelf above chain/death

CR width+ plastic/poly jug cut before CR's

Derry deary deary deary deray derat

Zxxxxxx stupid

A few days ago I was searching for something on the Web, and got
diverted into somebody's blog. The writer was ecstatic about a
Japanese system -- name was vaguely like "ring", but not close enough
to search on -- for quickly stripping a bike for transport and quickly
re-assembling it to ride away from the airport.

One detail I retained was that one cut the fender, overlapped it, and
put a special bolt through the doubled section to hold the fender
together. This special bolt seems tailor made for your situation --
but I can't remember enough details to find it again.

--
Joy Beeson
joy beeson at comcast dot net
http://wlweather.net/PAGEJOY/

On Tuesday, December 29, 2015 at 12:12:01 AM UTC-5, Joy Beeson wrote:
A few days ago I was searching for something on the Web, and got
diverted into somebody's blog. The writer was ecstatic about a
Japanese system -- name was vaguely like "ring", but not close enough
to search on -- for quickly stripping a bike for transport and quickly
re-assembling it to ride away from the airport.

One detail I retained was that one cut the fender, overlapped it, and
put a special bolt through the doubled section to hold the fender
together. This special bolt seems tailor made for your situation --
but I can't remember enough details to find it again.

--
Joy Beeson
joy beeson at comcast dot net
http://wlweather.net/PAGEJOY/

You could drill an undersize hole in one section of the cut fender and then carefully file that hole into a square that'd take a square shank bolt like a cable pinch bolt. Then you drill a regular round hole in the other fender piece and you use a standar acorn nut or nylock nut to hold the two pieces together. you could even put a very thin nut over the square shank and leave it there to keep the bolt from falling out of the fender when the second piece of fender is removed.

Cheers

On 12/28/2015 8:12 PM, John B. wrote:

A few months ago bought an old road bike that has horizontal, forward
facing rear drop-outs.

I've refurbished the bike and have been riding it for a month, or so,
now and it is rapidly becoming a favorite.... excepting that it has no
fenders :-(

Now, I can buy a really nice set of "hammered" aluminum fenders here,
for a decent price, but the problem is mounting the rear fender as to
remove the rear wheel the wheel has to slide forward about one inch
for the axle to clear the horizontal drop-outs.

If I mount the rear fender as is usually done with the forward end
bolted to the chain stay bridge the curve of the fender doesn't match
the curve of the tire and (as my grand kids say) it looks dorkey. If
on the other hand I mount the fender to match the curve of the tire
there isn't enough clearance to remove the rear wheel.

Velo Orange sells a "solution" that consists of a longer then usual
bolt with a spring to allow the front end of the fender to move
forward, against spring pressure, to allow the removal of the wheel.
http://tinyurl.com/nw46tv8

But given that there is usually a fender attaching point at the brake
bridge it would appear that this may not be a really a good solution
in that it looks as though one is trying to flex a curved, half round,
fender, that normally doesn't bend.

Has any one had this problem? And what did you do? And are you happy
with the results?

--
cheers,

John B.


On my fixie with no chainstay bridge and short clearances, I
zip tied it to the seat tube with a rubber pad between
mudguard and seat tube:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...ast/AMKEST.JPG

It's a little different now but the same type of mount.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 12/28/2015 10:11 PM, Joy Beeson wrote:


A few days ago I was searching for something on the Web, and got
diverted into somebody's blog. The writer was ecstatic about a
Japanese system -- name was vaguely like "ring", but not close enough
to search on -- for quickly stripping a bike for transport and quickly
re-assembling it to ride away from the airport.

One detail I retained was that one cut the fender, overlapped it, and
put a special bolt through the doubled section to hold the fender
together. This special bolt seems tailor made for your situation --
but I can't remember enough details to find it again.


Rinko, 17 December entry he
https://janheine.wordpress.com/

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

John B. writes:

A few months ago bought an old road bike that has horizontal, forward
facing rear drop-outs.

I've refurbished the bike and have been riding it for a month, or so,
now and it is rapidly becoming a favorite.... excepting that it has no
fenders :-(

Now, I can buy a really nice set of "hammered" aluminum fenders here,
for a decent price, but the problem is mounting the rear fender as to
remove the rear wheel the wheel has to slide forward about one inch
for the axle to clear the horizontal drop-outs.

If I mount the rear fender as is usually done with the forward end
bolted to the chain stay bridge the curve of the fender doesn't match
the curve of the tire and (as my grand kids say) it looks dorkey. If
on the other hand I mount the fender to match the curve of the tire
there isn't enough clearance to remove the rear wheel.

Velo Orange sells a "solution" that consists of a longer then usual
bolt with a spring to allow the front end of the fender to move
forward, against spring pressure, to allow the removal of the wheel.
http://tinyurl.com/nw46tv8

But given that there is usually a fender attaching point at the brake
bridge it would appear that this may not be a really a good solution
in that it looks as though one is trying to flex a curved, half round,
fender, that normally doesn't bend.

Has any one had this problem? And what did you do? And are you happy
with the results?

I use a cotter pin with a spring and washer, more or less as you
describe. The fender is a mostly plastic SKS model, which is flexible
enough. Works for me.

--

On Monday, December 28, 2015 at 11:58:35 PM UTC-8, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Tuesday, December 29, 2015 at 12:12:01 AM UTC-5, Joy Beeson wrote:
A few days ago I was searching for something on the Web, and got
diverted into somebody's blog. The writer was ecstatic about a
Japanese system -- name was vaguely like "ring", but not close enough
to search on -- for quickly stripping a bike for transport and quickly
re-assembling it to ride away from the airport.

One detail I retained was that one cut the fender, overlapped it, and
put a special bolt through the doubled section to hold the fender
together. This special bolt seems tailor made for your situation --
but I can't remember enough details to find it again.

--
Joy Beeson
joy beeson at comcast dot net
http://wlweather.net/PAGEJOY/

You could drill an undersize hole in one section of the cut fender and then carefully file that hole into a square that'd take a square shank bolt like a cable pinch bolt. Then you drill a regular round hole in the other fender piece and you use a standar acorn nut or nylock nut to hold the two pieces together. you could even put a very thin nut over the square shank and leave it there to keep the bolt from falling out of the fender when the second piece of fender is removed.


I don't think cutting the fender solves John B's problems. He needs the entire fender to shift forward for wheel removal. If the fender were plastic, he could use the spring-loaded bolt at the BB bridge and just flex the fender, but since he is using a rigid fender, that doesn't work.

An option might be to use the spring-loaded bolt at the BB bridge and then use an "L" bend notched bracket -- the same sort of bracket used for a rear rack extension -- as the brake bridge hanger. Anchor one leg at the bridge and bend the other leg to match the curvature of the fender, then drill a hole through the fender and use a bolt and wingnut. When you need to change the wheel, loosen the wingnut (or whatever more cosmetic nut), slide the fender forward, compress the spring and change the wheel.

Or just live with cosmetic imperfection like the rest of the world.

I don't like metal fenders because they tend to be noisy and rattled. Plastic is fantastic.


-- Jay Beattie.