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casette shifting



 
 
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  #21  
Old November 6th 18, 08:32 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg[_3_]
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Posts: 16
Default casette shifting

Sir Ridesalot wrote:

But he said that turning the adjuster barrel
in (clockwise) cure his problem. Thus he does
not have a sticking cable. He wants to know
why the cable suddenly got tighter than it
was before.


Well, yeah, this was the initial approach and
what actually happened. But I suppose there are
several variables to it and me oiling the chain
without removing excess oil probably brought
a lot of it onto the sprockets which I now
understand is undesirable.

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  #22  
Old November 6th 18, 11:57 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
news18
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Posts: 119
Default casette shifting

On Tue, 06 Nov 2018 20:12:37 +0100, Emanuel Berg wrote:

OK, so if IIUC, oil (a light coating) on the cassette/chainrings and on
the outside of the chain does not facilitate shifting nor the entry/exit
of the links onto/out of the sprockets/chainrings?

The only reason to do it is to prevent rust!


It makes the works quieter.
The grinding of metal on metal is work wasted.
  #23  
Old November 7th 18, 12:04 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
news18
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Default casette shifting

On Tue, 06 Nov 2018 20:15:13 +0100, Emanuel Berg wrote:

lou.holtman wrote:

Your inner cable gets stuck somewhere.
Easy to investigate problem. Just look. Remove the cable from the RD
and shift while tension the cable by hand.
Ignore lube suggestions.


Too late

I degreased the whole drivetrain, lubed the chain, removed the excess
oil, and oiled the RD. Now shifting works to all sprockets, only I
noticed shifting to smaller sprockets is a tiny bit slower than shifting
to bigger.


TLR the whole thread, but my guess is the shifting is driven by a
spring somewhere and the force it can apply to move the carriage is less
at the extreme. Not all springs in derailluers are created equal.

  #24  
Old November 7th 18, 12:09 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
John B. Slocomb
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Posts: 200
Default casette shifting

On Tue, 06 Nov 2018 20:12:37 +0100, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

OK, so if IIUC, oil (a light coating) on the
cassette/chainrings and on the outside of the
chain does not facilitate shifting nor the
entry/exit of the links onto/out of the
sprockets/chainrings?

The only reason to do it is to prevent rust!

This leads me to three other questions:

1) If you use the bike every day, is rust
really a problem for either chain or
sprockets/chainrings?

2) What material are they made of?

3) When you buy a brand new chain, it is
factory impregnated on the outside as well.
Is this again only to prevent rust, and does
not help shifting or reduce wear in any way?


I think that at least half the reason for the coating on a new chain
is to prevent rusting but having said that there are coatings that go
on wet and sort of harden as they dry made by a number of companies
that claim to be both a lubricant and a rust protective coating.

BOESHIELD T-9 is only one example. "T-9 flushes out dirt and old
lubricants, displaces moisture, and penetrates moving parts"

EUROL makes various special lubricants/rust prevention


cheers,

John B.



 




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