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#101
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Sturdy mountain bike tail light?
On Wednesday, July 2, 2014 12:27:54 AM UTC+1, Joerg wrote:
James wrote: On 02/07/14 08:37, Joerg wrote: I've had numerous cables break. My first one at age 12 or so. 10th gear, full speed, intersection, red light, car stopped in front of me. Pulled brake ... thwack ... "Oh s..t!" ... *KAPOW* Another time I had to go straight in a hairpin curve because my front brake cable snapped, hoping there was no cliff or anything behind the bushes I saw. There wasn't. But ... there was a brick wall. The risk with mountain biking is higher. Going down a really gnarly hill everything on the bike shakes like crazy. I even had chains fly off many times. If something snaps off it'll flop around to its limits and if that means touching the knobs of a tire that could result in an ugly crash. Disc brakes and an internally geared hub would solve a couple of problems for you. T'is why I now have an MTB with disk brakes. But no geared hub, the Rohloff which supposedly can take hard MTB rides is way too pricey for my taste. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ A Rohloff hub with minimal service (change of oil every 5000km) lasts forever and is infinitely rebuildable. That makes it a sound secondhand proposition. Cosmetically hard used but mechanically sound Rohloffs quite often go for bargain prices on ebay.de. Andre Jute |
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#102
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Sturdy mountain bike tail light?
SMS wrote:
On 7/1/2014 5:26 PM, Joerg wrote: sms wrote: On 7/1/2014 1:23 PM, Joerg wrote: Ralph Barone wrote: sms wrote: [...] dx.com: http://www.dx.com/p/convenient-durable-aluminum-alloy-water-bottle-bracket-fixing-adapter-for-bicycle-handle-bar-black-239985. The DX mount looks useful and not too kludgey. It works, I've got one. But I placed sturdy rubber under it because else it can leave ugly teeth marks in the handlebar if you ever need to move it. And I will now have to because I want to shorten my handlebar a bit and also install Ergon GP2 grips. I like using either heat shrink or plastidip so there isn't another piece to worry about, but rubber would be fine too. The conduit clamps are smooth which I guess is one advantage to them. Yes, smooth clamps would be wonderful. I never understood why they cerrated them. But nothing is perfect in the world. These are smooth http://www.dx.com/p/high-quality-universal-motorcycle-7-8-handle-bar-mirror-mount-holder-clamp-adaptor-black-pair-191861. You could even connect two of them together with a short piece of M10 threaded rod and use a light that uses an 18650 Li-Ion battery since the narrowest part off the barrel diameter would be just about the right size (7/8") (an `8650 battery is 18mm in diameter and 650mm in length and 18mm is about 0.71"). Yes, those would work. The motorcycle market is genrally served with much better and more durable stuff than the bicycle market. If I had the time I would simply hack a motorcycle light and be done with it. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#103
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Sturdy mountain bike tail light?
SMS wrote:
On 7/1/2014 6:00 PM, jbeattie wrote: On Tuesday, July 1, 2014 2:15:09 PM UTC-7, sms wrote: On 7/1/2014 1:45 PM, jbeattie wrote: Any time I've had a yoke slip, it did so during a test run, and it did not result in any catastrophic problems. I don't recall ever breaking a brake cable. I'm positive that I've never broken a straddle cable or rod, although I had some NeoRetros where the cable slipped in the anchor bolt on one brake arm. IIRC, it was threaded in to aluminum, and I was afraid of over-torquing. http://www.jensonusa.com/images/Colo...5/G0000MEY.jpg IMO, that anchor should have a threaded SS sleeve. When I was in college I was riding my bike home on a sub-freezing day, going down a hill, and brake cable snapped. Further down the hill the other one snapped. fortunately there was enough of a level section at the bottom that my speed fell enough before reaching the busy road at the bottom. Did you check to see if the cables had been filed? A double cable failure seems suspicious to me. I've broken a lot of stuff on bikes, but I guess I'm lucky when it comes to brake cables. I've broken shift cables, but they take harder bends and are much lighter. I guess it's possible but not a lot of vandals hanging around the EE buildings. I think it was the combination of a cheap department store "10 speed" and the very cold weather. Corrosion is one problem. During my time at the university my bikes had to park outside the whole time, day and night. Since I rode every day there was also a fair amount of slushy salt-laden snow splashed onto just about anything on the bike. My cables nearly always snapped at that little ball that latches into the brake handle. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#104
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Sturdy mountain bike tail light?
Andre Jute wrote:
On Wednesday, July 2, 2014 12:27:54 AM UTC+1, Joerg wrote: James wrote: On 02/07/14 08:37, Joerg wrote: I've had numerous cables break. My first one at age 12 or so. 10th gear, full speed, intersection, red light, car stopped in front of me. Pulled brake ... thwack ... "Oh s..t!" ... *KAPOW* Another time I had to go straight in a hairpin curve because my front brake cable snapped, hoping there was no cliff or anything behind the bushes I saw. There wasn't. But ... there was a brick wall. The risk with mountain biking is higher. Going down a really gnarly hill everything on the bike shakes like crazy. I even had chains fly off many times. If something snaps off it'll flop around to its limits and if that means touching the knobs of a tire that could result in an ugly crash. Disc brakes and an internally geared hub would solve a couple of problems for you. T'is why I now have an MTB with disk brakes. But no geared hub, the Rohloff which supposedly can take hard MTB rides is way too pricey for my taste. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ A Rohloff hub with minimal service (change of oil every 5000km) lasts forever and is infinitely rebuildable. That makes it a sound secondhand proposition. Cosmetically hard used but mechanically sound Rohloffs quite often go for bargain prices on ebay.de. Maybe some day, if I find a deal. The gear ratio of 5:1 seems ok on the Rohloff for MTB use. But you'll also have to re-spoke, true the wheel, and so on. The other risk is whether it's really mechanically sound or whether there is some not-so-nice reason why the seller sells it. I've had mixed experiences on Ebay. Sellers suddenly no longer returning phone calls when there is a problem, et cetera. With the regular derailer deals you can buy new at decent prices and it works well. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#105
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Sturdy mountain bike tail light?
I've broken a lot of stuff on bikes, but I guess I'm lucky ... never had one break. one day riding back from town around noonish, rode up to Main into a film set. several burned out cars lined up north from the lights, 2 in back mounted by a Plymouth Caravan ? The Raleigh's cables snapped. |
#106
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Sturdy mountain bike tail light?
On Sun, 06 Jul 2014 04:38:45 +0100, Phil W Lee
wrote: Road flares aren't legal here, So much for the international version of my road flare bicycle light. I hate it when that happens. I guess I'll go back to calcium carbide (acetylene) bicycle lanterns. I don't think a carbon arc lamp can be made small enough. Not all flares contain potassium perchlorate, but if they do, they might contaminate the water supply. You did the right thing giving it to the local fire department, assuming they disposed of the ash properly: http://www.cdph.ca.gov/certlic/drinkingwater/Pages/Perchlorate.aspx http://www.spiegl.org/rocket/flare/flare.html http://water.epa.gov/drink/contaminants/unregulated/perchlorate.cfm http://www2.epa.gov/sites/production/files/2014-03/documents/ffrrofactsheet_contaminant_perchlorate_january2014 _final.pdf (...) They didn't need to extinguish it (igniting it in the sandpit was sufficient), but it did burn far more rapidly and spectacularly than I would expect the designer intended - probably some internal crack allowed the burn surface to be excessive, as with yours. Yep. That's what happened to me. It was quite impressive and sufficiently bright to make me drop it and run for cover in case it decided to explode. It took them longer to set it up than to burn it out. About 90s of very bright fun Normal burn time varies with flare size but is usually 15 to 30 minutes at about 750 C. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
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