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#21
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Desperate needs = desperate but workable solution
On Thursday, April 12, 2018 at 10:38:13 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-04-12 09:57, jbeattie wrote: On Thursday, April 12, 2018 at 7:19:15 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-04-11 19:39, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/11/2018 4:58 PM, Joerg wrote: On 2018-04-10 21:08, Frank Krygowski wrote: On Tuesday, April 10, 2018 at 11:26:54 AM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote: On Mon, 9 Apr 2018 21:39:29 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot wrote: Just before leaving for an important appointment Monday I discovered my rear tire was flat. Didn't have a spare tube and needed to leave within minutes. Pulled off the clincher tire and tube and put on a spare tubular tire I had hanging around. Worked perfectly and allowed me to make the appointment on time. Weird combination = tubular tire on a clincher rim but it worked well enough to get me to and from the appointment. Cheers Ummm... perhaps you should carry some duct tape. There are some articles and a few videos on how it's done. https://www.google.com/search?q=duct+tape+bicycle+tire+patch I've only used it once, on someone elses tire, because the rubber cement had dried out in three out of three patch kits available. It apparently worked as there were no threatening messages on my answering machine when I returned home. The only real tricks that I recall are to make sure the tube doesn't have any crud or baby powder on the surface, and to NOT wrap the tape all the way around the tube so that the tube can expand when pressurized. I don't think it would have worked with narrow high pressure tires. The one I patched was only pressurized to about 50(?) lbs. I don't think the duct tape patch would have held at 100 lbs. On one long tour, our Continental Top Touring tires developed worrying bubbles in the sidewalls. Is that a Conti problem? I had similar issue with Gatorskins. Two failed prematurely when their sidewalls started to give up. During the year of that tour (2003) I think it was a pretty common problem with Continental tires. I don't know if it still is. IIRC, I did later find that I'd been overinflating the tires. I had mine at the usual 90-95% of rated tire pressure. The CST tires never blew but their thread was gone after a mere 1000mi and the sidewalls had lots of fine cracks which was concerning. Next up is Vittoria Zafiro (got one of them on there right now) and after that Vee Rubber. I don't think any of them will ever achieve the 2500mi per tire that Gatorskins delivered but not blowing sidewalls is more important. Plus they are not such a bear to get onto the rim. Have fun with the Zafiros -- they're flat prone, and they wear quickly. The good part is that they're relatively light, and they have a nice tread pattern like a Pasela, so they get better traction than a pure slick on wet leaves and grass. The bad part is that the compound has less wet grip than a Pasela. Gatorskins are better tires all around, notwithstanding your personal experience with sidewall damage. The only downside to Gatorskins, IMO, is price and the fact that they are almost a pure slick -- but by this time of year, most of the leaves are off the ground, and I can get by with a pure slick. I am not holding with breath regarding the Zafiro tires, it's just a test. My real hope is with the Vee Rubber tires that should arrive soon. Hoping they have the same rubber as their TrailTaker style MTB tires. Those last up to 800mi which is really good for the terrain out here. I had problems getting a Gatorskin onto a CR18 rim -- which is like your old rims and has a shallow rim well, but never a problem on any other rim. I would think your old rims would be toast now with all the miles and hard braking in Gnarlyville. You should spring for some new rims with deeper rim wells that will accommodate modern tires. The rims are still hanging on. I mostly let'er rip on downhill stretches as long as the speed won't go above 45mph. Down in the valley I am on bike paths most of the time where there is little need for braking. On Monday I rode this bike path down to the Cosumnes River: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-3gnLIUum0 When the rims are up I'll be looking for a whole new wheel set and that would also mean bending up the rear from 126mm to 130mm which seems to be the standard these days. Get these: https://www.bikenashbar.com/cycling/...-vl-chd11-base Wait until Nashbar runs a 40% off deal. Hit the stickers with a hair dryer or heat gun, and they peel right off. I bought some cheap Vuelta disc wheels from my commuter bike expecting them to die in a month or two -- but no, they're really tough. The QR is ****, so throw that away, and for some reason, the axle ends don't bite into my rear dropout, so the wheel can shift, which is a little odd but probably peculiar to my bike. So far, the wheel has been a great value. Standard J-bend spokes and replaceable cartridge bearings, so it is reparable. -- Jay Beattie. |
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#22
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Desperate needs = desperate but workable solution
On 2018-04-12 12:51, jbeattie wrote:
On Thursday, April 12, 2018 at 10:38:13 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-04-12 09:57, jbeattie wrote: [...] I had problems getting a Gatorskin onto a CR18 rim -- which is like your old rims and has a shallow rim well, but never a problem on any other rim. I would think your old rims would be toast now with all the miles and hard braking in Gnarlyville. You should spring for some new rims with deeper rim wells that will accommodate modern tires. The rims are still hanging on. I mostly let'er rip on downhill stretches as long as the speed won't go above 45mph. Down in the valley I am on bike paths most of the time where there is little need for braking. On Monday I rode this bike path down to the Cosumnes River: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-3gnLIUum0 When the rims are up I'll be looking for a whole new wheel set and that would also mean bending up the rear from 126mm to 130mm which seems to be the standard these days. Get these: https://www.bikenashbar.com/cycling/...-vl-chd11-base Wait until Nashbar runs a 40% off deal. Hit the stickers with a hair dryer or heat gun, and they peel right off. Thanks, bookmarked and entered into wiki & shopping list. I don't care about stickers, they could stay. Pretty soon they'd be mud-caked anyhow. The photos aren't sufficiently hi-res, do you know if the rims are hooked (some tires require that) and the spoke holes have eyelets? I bought some cheap Vuelta disc wheels from my commuter bike expecting them to die in a month or two -- but no, they're really tough. The QR is ****, so throw that away, and for some reason, the axle ends don't bite into my rear dropout, so the wheel can shift, which is a little odd but probably peculiar to my bike. So far, the wheel has been a great value. Standard J-bend spokes and replaceable cartridge bearings, so it is reparable. 14 gauge spokes don't instill much confidence, I have 12 gauge right now and even those sometimes pop. However, since you said it's all sturdy I assume it would be ok for me. Bearings last a while for me. What doesn't last is the freehub where I need to swap in a new one every 10k miles or so. Assuming it's the usual 10mm Allen deal where it can be replaced. I had a Formula hub where the freehub wasn't replaceable, which was a real bummer but luckily still under warranty. What would be nice is a hub dynamo so I can ride with a smaller vehicle battery and get that automagically recharged on fast routes, plus maybe hook up a bigger MP3 player. But not popular in the US and some dreams just have to remain dreams. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#23
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Desperate needs = desperate but workable solution
On 4/12/2018 3:51 PM, jbeattie wrote:
Get these: https://www.bikenashbar.com/cycling/...-vl-chd11-base Wait until Nashbar runs a 40% off deal. Hit the stickers with a hair dryer or heat gun, and they peel right off. I bought some cheap Vuelta disc wheels from my commuter bike expecting them to die in a month or two -- but no, they're really tough. The QR is ****, so throw that away, and for some reason, the axle ends don't bite into my rear dropout, so the wheel can shift, which is a little odd but probably peculiar to my bike. So far, the wheel has been a great value. Standard J-bend spokes and replaceable cartridge bearings, so it is reparable. I predict that those won't work for Joerg. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#24
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Desperate needs = desperate but workable solution
On Thursday, April 12, 2018 at 1:16:55 PM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-04-12 12:51, jbeattie wrote: On Thursday, April 12, 2018 at 10:38:13 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-04-12 09:57, jbeattie wrote: [...] I had problems getting a Gatorskin onto a CR18 rim -- which is like your old rims and has a shallow rim well, but never a problem on any other rim. I would think your old rims would be toast now with all the miles and hard braking in Gnarlyville. You should spring for some new rims with deeper rim wells that will accommodate modern tires. The rims are still hanging on. I mostly let'er rip on downhill stretches as long as the speed won't go above 45mph. Down in the valley I am on bike paths most of the time where there is little need for braking. On Monday I rode this bike path down to the Cosumnes River: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-3gnLIUum0 When the rims are up I'll be looking for a whole new wheel set and that would also mean bending up the rear from 126mm to 130mm which seems to be the standard these days. Get these: https://www.bikenashbar.com/cycling/...-vl-chd11-base Wait until Nashbar runs a 40% off deal. Hit the stickers with a hair dryer or heat gun, and they peel right off. Thanks, bookmarked and entered into wiki & shopping list. I don't care about stickers, they could stay. Pretty soon they'd be mud-caked anyhow. The photos aren't sufficiently hi-res, do you know if the rims are hooked (some tires require that) and the spoke holes have eyelets? I bought some cheap Vuelta disc wheels from my commuter bike expecting them to die in a month or two -- but no, they're really tough. The QR is ****, so throw that away, and for some reason, the axle ends don't bite into my rear dropout, so the wheel can shift, which is a little odd but probably peculiar to my bike. So far, the wheel has been a great value. Standard J-bend spokes and replaceable cartridge bearings, so it is reparable. 14 gauge spokes don't instill much confidence, I have 12 gauge right now and even those sometimes pop. However, since you said it's all sturdy I assume it would be ok for me. Bearings last a while for me. What doesn't last is the freehub where I need to swap in a new one every 10k miles or so. Assuming it's the usual 10mm Allen deal where it can be replaced. I had a Formula hub where the freehub wasn't replaceable, which was a real bummer but luckily still under warranty. What would be nice is a hub dynamo so I can ride with a smaller vehicle battery and get that automagically recharged on fast routes, plus maybe hook up a bigger MP3 player. But not popular in the US and some dreams just have to remain dreams. Like Frank says, I forgot you were you. I had 36H tandem wheels built with 14/15 spokes and never broke a spoke -- with a total rider weight of 300lbs. If you're having problems with 14g and even 12g spokes breaking with any regularity, then you need a new wheel builder or a different set of rims -- or different spokes, or all of the above. And you're also telling us that you paid someone to rebuild your existing wheels. Old EX hubs had 2.4mm spoke holes, IIRC, and you need 2.6mm for 12 gauge. How did you pull that off? If you didn't drill the spoke holes, that must have been a massive PITA pulling 12 gauge spokes. They're probably breaking because the J bends are all scraped up. -- Jay Beattie. |
#25
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Desperate needs = desperate but workable solution
On Thursday, April 12, 2018 at 3:47:40 PM UTC+1, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 10, 2018 at 11:36:51 PM UTC+2, Andre Jute wrote: Gee, there's stubborn, and then there is pathological obsession. Don't you guys have a mobile phone and the number of a responsive taxi service? AJ Flabbergasted Or in that situation the use of your car is 'allowed', as it is for getting groceries. Lou I haven't had a car since I went green in 1990. It makes surprisingly little difference to one's life if you think through the adaptations you have to make. Andre Jute Conservationist |
#26
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Desperate needs = desperate but workable solution
On one long tour, our Continental Top Touring tires developed worrying bubbles in the sidewalls. Is that a Conti problem? I had similar issue with Gatorskins. Two failed prematurely when their sidewalls started to give up. Uhm... Hmm. I haven't read news in a few months, and now that I have and went to catch up on r.b.t, ... ...you are still (or again?) grieving about this. I told you before; I'll tell you again: Just put a dab of gasket cement on it as soon as the fraying starts. I use Permatex #2 but that's because I use Permatex #2 for everything. I think I used superglue once and it worked fine. And then you fret about my hose clamp fix :-) And you fret about a-little-dab'll-do-ya ? Next time take a pic; until then I'm marking this bug 'fixed'. Gatorskins are better tires all around, notwithstanding your personal experience with sidewall damage. He rode his roadbike on the gnarly trail to town and scraped them on rocks and admitted to it, each at least once. My current Gatorskin: actually I took this tire, which has between 1 and 2 K miles, down from the attic where it had been for 2 years a few months ago. I put a few dabs of black gasket cement on the fraying spots, visible in these pics. Also visible, adjacent to each spot, is a new thread beginning to fray. It's to the left in the first two pics, to the right in the 2nd, in between them in the 4th, not present in the 5th. https://www.dropbox.com/s/1z270cz94b...30730.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/ao5r35u5y7...30742.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/ngfou1fr3r...30751.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/3217iixox1...30912.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/zopo2ac7uk...30957.jpg?dl=0 I think I usually apply it a bit more liberally and tried the minimum required this time, and I see that that is not optimal - now I have to do it again. Well, it only takes a minute, but I wouldn't have noticed yet if I hadn't taken the pics. From now on I'll go back to covering the entire sidewall for a couple inches on both sides of the frayed spot, and apply it a bit thicker. I'll try coating all of both sidewalls of my next gatorskin when new. -dkl |
#27
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Desperate needs = desperate but workable solution
On 2018-04-12 16:57, jbeattie wrote:
On Thursday, April 12, 2018 at 1:16:55 PM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-04-12 12:51, jbeattie wrote: [...] I bought some cheap Vuelta disc wheels from my commuter bike expecting them to die in a month or two -- but no, they're really tough. The QR is ****, so throw that away, and for some reason, the axle ends don't bite into my rear dropout, so the wheel can shift, which is a little odd but probably peculiar to my bike. So far, the wheel has been a great value. Standard J-bend spokes and replaceable cartridge bearings, so it is reparable. 14 gauge spokes don't instill much confidence, I have 12 gauge right now and even those sometimes pop. However, since you said it's all sturdy I assume it would be ok for me. Bearings last a while for me. What doesn't last is the freehub where I need to swap in a new one every 10k miles or so. Assuming it's the usual 10mm Allen deal where it can be replaced. I had a Formula hub where the freehub wasn't replaceable, which was a real bummer but luckily still under warranty. What would be nice is a hub dynamo so I can ride with a smaller vehicle battery and get that automagically recharged on fast routes, plus maybe hook up a bigger MP3 player. But not popular in the US and some dreams just have to remain dreams. Like Frank says, I forgot you were you. I had 36H tandem wheels built with 14/15 spokes and never broke a spoke -- with a total rider weight of 300lbs. If you're having problems with 14g and even 12g spokes breaking with any regularity, then you need a new wheel builder or a different set of rims -- or different spokes, or all of the above. And you're also telling us that you paid someone to rebuild your existing wheels. Old EX hubs had 2.4mm spoke holes, IIRC, and you need 2.6mm for 12 gauge. How did you pull that off? If you didn't drill the spoke holes, that must have been a massive PITA pulling 12 gauge spokes. They're probably breaking because the J bends are all scraped up. Probably they drilled or honed them out. They asked me a lot of questions when building the bike, the most important one was where I ride. I ordered the bike with a friend and his was built for normal road racing, he weighed less than I and he wanted a very light bike while I wanted sturdiness. After I answered eastern Belgium and forest roads the guy said to me that I need wider rims and different spokes. This was a pro shop and I am sure they knew what they were doing. Not surprisingly the labor charged on my bill was higher than for my friend. Since the spokes were non-standard back then I orderd a bunch of spares. The spokes sometimes break at the bend, sometimes where the thread starts. Which is always fun because then the tire also has to come off, not just the cassette. Always in the rear and during climbs or uphill starts. Probably one of the reasons is ths stupid dishing of rear wheels. Why can't bikes have sufficient asymmetry in the right stays so no off-center dishing is required? Drop-out shifting isn't so great either. I have that on my MTB and it has wallered out the right rear a bit. The road bike has old-style slanted slots so it can shift a lot. So far I only have to readjust once per tire, at the most. As I said, if you say the Vuelta wheels are sturdy I trust that. So they are on my Dear Santa list. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#28
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Desperate needs = desperate but workable solution
On 2018-04-12 14:51, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/12/2018 3:51 PM, jbeattie wrote: Get these: https://www.bikenashbar.com/cycling/...-vl-chd11-base Wait until Nashbar runs a 40% off deal. Hit the stickers with a hair dryer or heat gun, and they peel right off. I bought some cheap Vuelta disc wheels from my commuter bike expecting them to die in a month or two -- but no, they're really tough. The QR is ****, so throw that away, and for some reason, the axle ends don't bite into my rear dropout, so the wheel can shift, which is a little odd but probably peculiar to my bike. So far, the wheel has been a great value. Standard J-bend spokes and replaceable cartridge bearings, so it is reparable. I predict that those won't work for Joerg. I think they would, since Jay used them on a tandem. How does one find out when Nashbar has their 40% off days without signing up for an email barrage? -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#29
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Desperate needs = desperate but workable solution
On 2018-04-12 23:57, Doug Landau wrote:
On one long tour, our Continental Top Touring tires developed worrying bubbles in the sidewalls. Is that a Conti problem? I had similar issue with Gatorskins. Two failed prematurely when their sidewalls started to give up. Uhm... Hmm. I haven't read news in a few months, and now that I have and went to catch up on r.b.t, ... ...you are still (or again?) grieving about this. I told you before; I'll tell you again: Just put a dab of gasket cement on it as soon as the fraying starts. I use Permatex #2 but that's because I use Permatex #2 for everything. I think I used superglue once and it worked fine. And then you fret about my hose clamp fix :-) And you fret about a-little-dab'll-do-ya ? Next time take a pic; until then I'm marking this bug 'fixed'. Gatorskins are better tires all around, notwithstanding your personal experience with sidewall damage. He rode his roadbike on the gnarly trail to town and scraped them on rocks and admitted to it, each at least once. My current Gatorskin: actually I took this tire, which has between 1 and 2 K miles, down from the attic where it had been for 2 years a few months ago. I put a few dabs of black gasket cement on the fraying spots, visible in these pics. Also visible, adjacent to each spot, is a new thread beginning to fray. It's to the left in the first two pics, to the right in the 2nd, in between them in the 4th, not present in the 5th. https://www.dropbox.com/s/1z270cz94b...30730.jpg?dl=0 The defect on the left clearly shows that several of the threads have been compromised or are frayed. Gasket cement does not fix that, it just masks it. Such a tire on the front wheel is an accident waiting to happen. https://www.dropbox.com/s/ao5r35u5y7...30742.jpg?dl=0 See the tear that starts developing at the 5 o'clock position of that patch job? I would not want that tire on my front wheel. https://www.dropbox.com/s/ngfou1fr3r...30751.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/3217iixox1...30912.jpg?dl=0 Yikes! No thanks. https://www.dropbox.com/s/zopo2ac7uk...30957.jpg?dl=0 I think I usually apply it a bit more liberally and tried the minimum required this time, and I see that that is not optimal - now I have to do it again. Well, it only takes a minute, but I wouldn't have noticed yet if I hadn't taken the pics. From now on I'll go back to covering the entire sidewall for a couple inches on both sides of the frayed spot, and apply it a bit thicker. I'll try coating all of both sidewalls of my next gatorskin when new. With a $45 tire I do not expect to have to constantly correct mistakes that the manufacturer made. As I said, my solution has been found: Use Asian tires with sturdier sidewalls. So far they only last 1000mi versus the 2500mi I got out of Gatorskin. However, when comparing $11-15 against $45 I won't complain about that. I am quite certain I'll soon find a tire that lasts a little longer, maybe 1500mi. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#30
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Desperate needs = desperate but workable solution
On Friday, April 13, 2018 at 9:55:45 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-04-12 14:51, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/12/2018 3:51 PM, jbeattie wrote: Get these: https://www.bikenashbar.com/cycling/...-vl-chd11-base Wait until Nashbar runs a 40% off deal. Hit the stickers with a hair dryer or heat gun, and they peel right off. I bought some cheap Vuelta disc wheels from my commuter bike expecting them to die in a month or two -- but no, they're really tough. The QR is ****, so throw that away, and for some reason, the axle ends don't bite into my rear dropout, so the wheel can shift, which is a little odd but probably peculiar to my bike. So far, the wheel has been a great value. Standard J-bend spokes and replaceable cartridge bearings, so it is reparable. I predict that those won't work for Joerg. I think they would, since Jay used them on a tandem. How does one find out when Nashbar has their 40% off days without signing up for an email barrage? No, no, no. I didn't use them on my tandem. I use them on my commuter bike. The tandem was Sun Chinook rims with 36 hole Shimano XT hubs and 14/15G spokes. Rear may have been 40 spokes. I sold the bike and don't remember. I get the Nashbar e-mails, so the only way you would know is by checking periodically. There are many higher-priced options out there, but all of them will involve something other than your current 450g MA2 variant. I think H Plus Son makes some nice rims. You can buy them he https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...p?category=856 Velocity Dyads are robust. I'm sure Andrew could build you a bullet proof road wheel that does not have eBike spokes. Spend some money and get good hubs with a noisy angry-bee freehub. -- Jay Beattie. |
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