Routing the brake cables

I am putting new brake and derailer casings and cables on the bike, and
am putting the rear brake on the right lever, a new arrangement for me.
These are not brifters, but Dura Ace 7402 "aero" levers, from which the
cables exit the rear of the lever body and are taped to the drop handlebar.

The right/front cabling is a straight shot to the front brake. The
left/rear cabling can go two ways: it can exit the bar tape and cross in
front of the head tube, curving back to enter the cable guides on the
top tube, or it can exit the tape and immediately go to the guides
without crossing the center line of the bike. This latter routing saves
about three inches of cable, but contacts the head tube, which I will
protect with vinyl tape.

Is there any problem with taking the shorter route? I know that I need
the cable and housing to be long enough for the bars to turn fully in
either direction, but is there any issue I am not considering?

Thanks for your thoughts.

BC
router

On Mar 2, 8:43*pm, bcdrums wrote:
I am putting new brake and derailer casings and cables on the bike, and
am putting the rear brake on the right lever, a new arrangement for me.
These are not brifters, but Dura Ace 7402 "aero" levers, from which the
cables exit the rear of the lever body and are taped to the drop handlebar.

landotter wrote:
On Mar 2, 8:43 pm, bcdrums wrote:
I am putting new brake and derailer casings and cables on the bike, and
am putting the rear brake on the right lever, a new arrangement for me.
These are not brifters, but Dura Ace 7402 "aero" levers, from which the
cables exit the rear of the lever body and are taped to the drop handlebar.

The right/front cabling is a straight shot to the front brake. The
left/rear cabling can go two ways: it can exit the bar tape and cross in
front of the head tube, curving back to enter the cable guides on the
top tube, or it can exit the tape and immediately go to the guides
without crossing the center line of the bike. This latter routing saves
about three inches of cable, but contacts the head tube, which I will
protect with vinyl tape.

Is there any problem with taking the shorter route? I know that I need
the cable and housing to be long enough for the bars to turn fully in
either direction, but is there any issue I am not considering?

Thanks for your thoughts.

I'm assuming your braze ons are set up at 10 oclock or so,
anticipating a cable from the right? Your shorter route might be just
fine. Cable and brake housing is cheap, set it up and see if it feels
OK, should be fine.

The braze ons are at 12 o'clock, seemingly neutral to cable placement.
But you are right- if it doesn't work, I'll move it.

BC

Jobst Brandt wrote:


You should be aware why front brakes in the USA are on the left when
the rest of the world who don't buy their bicycles from the USA have
it on the right as all motor cycles and scooters do. The USA, after I
started riding years ago, changed the standard from right to left
because it was believed that a right front brake causes end-overs and
injury. Motorized two wheelers, sold around the world, did not follow
suit.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/over-the-bars.html


Thank you for pointing to these articles. I had long ago read Sheldon's
article, and it was the one that stuck in my mind and influenced me to
go to right/front braking.

BC

On Mar 3, 7:04*am, bcdrums wrote:
landotter wrote:
On Mar 2, 8:43 pm, bcdrums wrote:
I am putting new brake and derailer casings and cables on the bike, and
am putting the rear brake on the right lever, a new arrangement for me..
These are not brifters, but Dura Ace 7402 "aero" levers, from which the
cables exit the rear of the lever body and are taped to the drop handlebar.

The right/front cabling is a straight shot to the front brake. The
left/rear cabling can go two ways: it can exit the bar tape and cross in
front of the head tube, curving back to enter the cable guides on the
top tube, or it can exit the tape and immediately go to the guides
without crossing the center line of the bike. This latter routing saves
about three inches of cable, but contacts the head tube, which I will
protect with vinyl tape.

Is there any problem with taking the shorter route? I know that I need
the cable and housing to be long enough for the bars to turn fully in
either direction, but is there any issue I am not considering?

Thanks for your thoughts.

I'm assuming your braze ons are set up at 10 oclock or so,
anticipating a cable from the right? Your shorter route might be just
fine. Cable and brake housing is cheap, set it up and see if it feels
OK, should be fine.

The braze ons are at 12 o'clock, seemingly neutral to cable placement.
But you are right- if it doesn't work, I'll move it.

A lotta things will come into play like stem length and where you
choose to have the cable exit the wrap. In my mind it would probably
make a larger radius bend (better) if routed to the left of the head
tube. In reality, I'd try both positions while checking lever feel.

On 3 Mar, 02:43, bcdrums wrote:
I am putting new brake and derailer casings and cables on the bike, and
am putting the rear brake on the right lever, a new arrangement for me.
These are not brifters, but Dura Ace 7402 "aero" levers, from which the
cables exit the rear of the lever body and are taped to the drop handlebar.

The right/front cabling is a straight shot to the front brake. The
left/rear cabling can go two ways: it can exit the bar tape and cross in
front of the head tube, curving back to enter the cable guides on the
top tube, or it can exit the tape and immediately go to the guides
without crossing the center line of the bike. This latter routing saves
about three inches of cable, but contacts the head tube, which I will
protect with vinyl tape.

Is there any problem with taking the shorter route? I know that I need
the cable and housing to be long enough for the bars to turn fully in
either direction, but is there any issue I am not considering?

Thanks for your thoughts.

BC
router

It['s more likely to work well going the long way round. It aklso
depends on wether you wish to tie the cables together. My advice is
use a zip tie but leave it loose. Bar height and stem extension
affect which is best. Re-wrapping bar tape because you used the
short fit then changed your mind can be most annoying. (You can cut
the outer and butt join it using adhesive shrink wrap (Scotchtite))