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best v-brake value.....



 
 
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  #1  
Old June 18th 07, 02:14 PM posted to alt.mountain-bike
Callistus Valerius
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 393
Default best v-brake value.....

I still have POS 26" mtb that I still maintain, and it has some promax
v-brakes that don't work anymore, unless you consider one pad rubbing on the
wheel, working. I want to replace them with some new v-brakes. What are
some good value v-brakes that work decently but don't cost a fortune. Not
interested in POS promax, anything else.


Ads
  #2  
Old June 18th 07, 02:32 PM posted to alt.mountain-bike
Scott Gordo
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 943
Default best v-brake value.....

On Jun 18, 9:14 am, "Callistus Valerius"
wrote:
I still have POS 26" mtb that I still maintain, and it has some promax
v-brakes that don't work anymore, unless you consider one pad rubbing on the
wheel, working. I want to replace them with some new v-brakes. What are
some good value v-brakes that work decently but don't cost a fortune. Not
interested in POS promax, anything else.


Frankly, there are better and worse Vs (based on weight, stiffness,
tolerances at the pivot, pads), but functionally they're all within
the same ballpark.

One pad being pulled into the rim sounds like a easily fixable
problem. There are wire springs behind each brake caliper that reach
from the pivot up towards the top of the caliper. Those springs are
held in place by a nub that protrudes from the top-back of the
caliper. Let's say that the left pad is the one being pulled into the
rim. Sounds like the left side caliper spring is disengaged, which
means that the right caliper's engaged spring is pulling the left pad
into the rim.

There should also be some bolts at the base of the calipers which will
help align the calipers.

Last thing to try is to remove the calipers and make sure the base of
the spring is in the appropriate hole within the braze-on.

/s

  #3  
Old June 18th 07, 02:41 PM posted to alt.mountain-bike
Callistus Valerius
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 393
Default best v-brake value.....

I still have POS 26" mtb that I still maintain, and it has some promax
v-brakes that don't work anymore, unless you consider one pad rubbing on

the
wheel, working. I want to replace them with some new v-brakes. What

are
some good value v-brakes that work decently but don't cost a fortune.

Not
interested in POS promax, anything else.


Frankly, there are better and worse Vs (based on weight, stiffness,
tolerances at the pivot, pads), but functionally they're all within
the same ballpark.

One pad being pulled into the rim sounds like a easily fixable
problem. There are wire springs behind each brake caliper that reach
from the pivot up towards the top of the caliper. Those springs are
held in place by a nub that protrudes from the top-back of the
caliper. Let's say that the left pad is the one being pulled into the
rim. Sounds like the left side caliper spring is disengaged, which
means that the right caliper's engaged spring is pulling the left pad
into the rim.

There should also be some bolts at the base of the calipers which will
help align the calipers.

Last thing to try is to remove the calipers and make sure the base of
the spring is in the appropriate hole within the braze-on.

/s

-----------
tried all of that, I think the spring no longer works. When springs fail,
they still look ok, they just don't work. The brakes are 10 years old. Had
the same thing happen on a road bike brake, just by looking at it, it should
of worked, but it didn't. I think it was also a spring failure.


  #4  
Old June 18th 07, 02:45 PM posted to alt.mountain-bike
Ride-A-Lot
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 608
Default best v-brake value.....

Callistus Valerius wrote:
I still have POS 26" mtb that I still maintain, and it has some promax
v-brakes that don't work anymore, unless you consider one pad rubbing on

the
wheel, working. I want to replace them with some new v-brakes. What

are
some good value v-brakes that work decently but don't cost a fortune.

Not
interested in POS promax, anything else.

Frankly, there are better and worse Vs (based on weight, stiffness,
tolerances at the pivot, pads), but functionally they're all within
the same ballpark.

One pad being pulled into the rim sounds like a easily fixable
problem. There are wire springs behind each brake caliper that reach
from the pivot up towards the top of the caliper. Those springs are
held in place by a nub that protrudes from the top-back of the
caliper. Let's say that the left pad is the one being pulled into the
rim. Sounds like the left side caliper spring is disengaged, which
means that the right caliper's engaged spring is pulling the left pad
into the rim.

There should also be some bolts at the base of the calipers which will
help align the calipers.

Last thing to try is to remove the calipers and make sure the base of
the spring is in the appropriate hole within the braze-on.

/s

-----------
tried all of that, I think the spring no longer works. When springs fail,
they still look ok, they just don't work. The brakes are 10 years old. Had
the same thing happen on a road bike brake, just by looking at it, it should
of worked, but it didn't. I think it was also a spring failure.



Take them off one of your road bikes, since you have such mad skills and
do so many miles there is no need for brakes.

--
o-o-o-o Ride-A-Lot o-o-o-o
www.schnauzers.ws
  #5  
Old June 18th 07, 03:07 PM posted to alt.mountain-bike
Scott Gordo
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 943
Default best v-brake value.....

On Jun 18, 9:41 am, "Callistus Valerius"
wrote:
I still have POS 26" mtb that I still maintain, and it has some promax
v-brakes that don't work anymore, unless you consider one pad rubbing on

the
wheel, working. I want to replace them with some new v-brakes. What

are
some good value v-brakes that work decently but don't cost a fortune.

Not
interested in POS promax, anything else.


Frankly, there are better and worse Vs (based on weight, stiffness,
tolerances at the pivot, pads), but functionally they're all within
the same ballpark.


One pad being pulled into the rim sounds like a easily fixable
problem. There are wire springs behind each brake caliper that reach
from the pivot up towards the top of the caliper. Those springs are
held in place by a nub that protrudes from the top-back of the
caliper. Let's say that the left pad is the one being pulled into the
rim. Sounds like the left side caliper spring is disengaged, which
means that the right caliper's engaged spring is pulling the left pad
into the rim.


There should also be some bolts at the base of the calipers which will
help align the calipers.


Last thing to try is to remove the calipers and make sure the base of
the spring is in the appropriate hole within the braze-on.


/s


-----------
tried all of that, I think the spring no longer works. When springs fail,
they still look ok, they just don't work. The brakes are 10 years old. Had
the same thing happen on a road bike brake, just by looking at it, it should
of worked, but it didn't. I think it was also a spring failure.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


See if there are bolts at the base of the calipers. Give the weak side
a couple clockwise turns and see if that helps. Or see about where the
spring anchors into the brazeon and try switching the anchor to a
different hole.

If none of those works then your best value would be to garbage pick a
Pacific, remove the calipers, and swap out the springs.

Or maybe when you go to the shop to pick up your 29er, you could ask
them to replace the spring.

/s

  #6  
Old June 18th 07, 05:35 PM posted to alt.mountain-bike
MattB
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 747
Default best v-brake value.....

Callistus Valerius wrote:
I still have POS 26" mtb that I still maintain, and it has some promax
v-brakes that don't work anymore, unless you consider one pad rubbing on the
wheel, working. I want to replace them with some new v-brakes. What are
some good value v-brakes that work decently but don't cost a fortune. Not
interested in POS promax, anything else.



Dumpster dive for some old LX brakes.

Matt
  #7  
Old June 19th 07, 01:59 AM posted to alt.mountain-bike
Callistus Valerius
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 393
Default best v-brake value.....


Take them off one of your road bikes, since you have such mad skills and
do so many miles there is no need for brakes.

----------
I must admit that a.m.b is not as threatened by my long distance prowess, as
r.b.r is. Their attacks are sometime ferocious, maybe ultracyclists have
more in common with mtb folk? It's hard for me to think that an 80 mile
crit, where all you see is the guys ass in front of you is riding. But
someone from rbr admitted it wasn't about riding, it was about beating the
other guy, so I guess that's where I missed the boat there.


  #8  
Old June 19th 07, 06:50 AM posted to alt.mountain-bike
tom
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 143
Default best v-brake value.....

On Jun 18, 5:59 pm, "Callistus Valerius"
wrote:
Take them off one of your road bikes, since you have such mad skills and
do so many miles there is no need for brakes.


----------
I must admit that a.m.b is not as threatened by my long distance prowess, as
r.b.r is. Their attacks are sometime ferocious, maybe ultracyclists have
more in common with mtb folk? It's hard for me to think that an 80 mile
crit, where all you see is the guys ass in front of you is riding. But
someone from rbr admitted it wasn't about riding, it was about beating the
other guy, so I guess that's where I missed the boat there.


Imagine our 40-milers...Tom

  #9  
Old June 19th 07, 10:07 AM posted to alt.mountain-bike
Callistus Valerius
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 393
Default best v-brake value.....

I must admit that a.m.b is not as threatened by my long distance
prowess, as
r.b.r is. Their attacks are sometime ferocious, maybe ultracyclists

have
more in common with mtb folk? It's hard for me to think that an 80 mile
crit, where all you see is the guys ass in front of you is riding. But
someone from rbr admitted it wasn't about riding, it was about beating

the
other guy, so I guess that's where I missed the boat there.


Imagine our 40-milers...Tom

---------
Pumps stuck in competitors wheels......chariot race style? Nothing wrong
with competition, as I was pretty good at competing in high school
sports......but pace line crashes have a way a redirecting your efforts.
Ooh, there is nothing that compares with hitting the pavement. There are
two types, sliding on pavement, and sudden stops on pavement. I can't
describe the latter, but it definitely opens your mind to maybe doing
something else.


  #10  
Old June 19th 07, 09:33 PM posted to alt.mountain-bike
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 287
Default best v-brake value.....

On Jun 18, 6:59 pm, "Callistus Valerius"
wrote:
Take them off one of your road bikes, since you have such mad skills and
do so many miles there is no need for brakes.


----------
I must admit that a.m.b is not as threatened by my long distance prowess, as
r.b.r is.


Nah we are use to self-aggrandizing gas bags who tend toward
exageration with almost every statement.

BTW since you are such an accomplished Ultra rider, why don't you
start naming names. Instead of posting "I was once at this event," put
up the name of the event and how you finished. Then maybe someone
around hear would give a rats ass about what you have to say. As of
right now you are just another usenet tool, with a 5200 gathering dust
in his garage.



Their attacks are sometime ferocious, maybe ultracyclists have
more in common with mtb folk?


If by that you mean that few ppl in this group race than over at
rbr ..... then you might be correct.

It's hard for me to think that an 80 mile
crit, snip


And there you go again ... Do you have any idea how rare a criterium
of 80 miles is? Durations are more in the realm of 25 to 50 miles or 1
hour to 90 minutes. Criteriums over 75 miles are so rare it is hard
for most ppl to imagine.

snip

R

 




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