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spot rust removing w/o damaging surounding paint
i have an old trek 500 from way back. it has a cro-moly frame. i
live in brooklyn and the seasons here do hell to a frame alog with the constant use of a heavy duty chain lock. i have a group of small nicks in the clearcoat and paint from the chain hitting the frame that have rusted. i now wrap parts of my frame that get hit by the chain with old inner tubes and it works wonders. however, this doesnt get rid of the old rusted dings from before. any advice on how to get rid of the small spots of rust w/o damaging the surrounding paint? thanks! |
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spot rust removing w/o damaging surounding paint
Feld wrote:
i have an old trek 500 from way back. it has a cro-moly frame. i live in brooklyn and the seasons here do hell to a frame alog with the constant use of a heavy duty chain lock. i have a group of small nicks in the clearcoat and paint from the chain hitting the frame that have rusted. i now wrap parts of my frame that get hit by the chain with old inner tubes and it works wonders. however, this doesnt get rid of the old rusted dings from before. any advice on how to get rid of the small spots of rust w/o damaging the surrounding paint? thanks! Dremel tool with abrasive "bit" down to metal. Clean with minera spirits, spot paint with auto touch up or if matching color is stil available from bike manufacturer - |
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spot rust removing w/o damaging surounding paint
feld wrote:
i have an old trek 500 from way back. it has a cro-moly frame. i live in brooklyn and the seasons here do hell to a frame alog with the constant use of a heavy duty chain lock. i have a group of small nicks in the clearcoat and paint from the chain hitting the frame that have rusted. i now wrap parts of my frame that get hit by the chain with old inner tubes and it works wonders. however, this doesnt get rid of the old rusted dings from before. any advice on how to get rid of the small spots of rust w/o damaging the surrounding paint? The British touring cyclist's preferred method is to wait until the frame looks really horrible, then send it for bead blasting and re-enamelling. They can match the decals and everything these days. A re-enamel every 5-10 years isn't unusual for a cherished steel frame. |
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spot rust removing w/o damaging surounding paint
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spot rust removing w/o damaging surounding paint
Hi Feld, I'm surpirsed no one else has suggested this, and this may be
an unusual way to beat the rust, but have to ever heard of a product called "Naval Jelly"? I would imagine a place such as Home Depot/Lowes would sell this product (or something similar) Where you just brush the product onto the rust, and it converts the rust to a paintable surface. Then after using this, you can go about touching up yout bike with a suitable touch up paint? Might be worth a try, and should hold back the rust for a while. Mark (feld) wrote in message . com... i have an old trek 500 from way back. it has a cro-moly frame. i live in brooklyn and the seasons here do hell to a frame alog with the constant use of a heavy duty chain lock. i have a group of small nicks in the clearcoat and paint from the chain hitting the frame that have rusted. i now wrap parts of my frame that get hit by the chain with old inner tubes and it works wonders. however, this doesnt get rid of the old rusted dings from before. any advice on how to get rid of the small spots of rust w/o damaging the surrounding paint? thanks! |
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spot rust removing w/o damaging surounding paint
Hi Don, A product I have been using on my vehicle for leveling touch
up paint blobs is called Langka. It's relatively inexpensive, and though it's been designed for auto use, there's no reason this wouldn't work quite well for Bikes, motorcycles, or whatever. After touch-up, you let the paint dry, then use the Langka, and a thin clean T-shirt stretched over a plastic card, then apply a drop of Langka, and begin to level/rub the "Blob" till its level, and blends in. Apparently, most touch up paints are claimed to be Laquer, and the Langka will remove this, without affecting/harming the original finish. I don't have the URL handy, but I'd be guessing that its www.langka.com Mark Third, I was a Nissan dealer last week and they had an outrageously expensive kit that would let you "smooth over" the high edges left by a touchup job, which makes it very difficult to see a touchup job even if you are looking at the specular reflections from sunlight shining on the surface of the paint (e.g. the paint is level after touchup so there is no reflectivity difference at any angle.) This kit did not require sanding. You might want to look online for kits such as this. - Don Gillies San Diego, CA |
#7
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spot rust removing w/o damaging surounding paint
Dear Mark,
For background: I fix up and sell used bikes, repair bikes including what I call a "paint tune-up" and do custom painting. My experience shows that the most important appearance aspect of a bike is how good it looks as a person approaches it. The decision whether it basically a good looking bike is made from about ten feet away. This includes the owner who already knows what the bike looks like close-up. Up close is important for expensive new-looking bikes, but if there is a significant amount of damage, getting it to look new again is basically a matter of the same kind of bodywork and expense that it takes to repaint a fender on your car, except it is much harder to match the base color. At that point it is generally cheaper and gives better results to strip and refinish. Around here powder coating is very popular as it is not so fragile and the baking process ensures there is no hidden rust. Paints are only used by custom painters like me who are doing exotic multi layer pearls, candies, chameleons, and fancy airbrush decoration. Rust Removal and Touch-up I have some Naval Jelly and it does work. Unfortunately, the instructions say not to allow it to touch painted areas because it removes paint. I have not tested the paint removal qualities, but it did take the rust of an old freewheel very nicely. I use fingernail polish to fix the dings on my and my customer's bikes. Most colors are available except for yellows and for bikes, the cheap stuff works as well as the expensive. It is dry here in Colorado so rust isn't too much of a problem, but if I was up against a rust problem, I would take a pointy tool of some sort an scrape the pit before spotting it. If the rust were truly severe, I would also dry the pit with acetone (watch out for your paint!) and blow dry it before putting on the nail polish. Another solution would be to use Rustoleum paints. they have a special compound in them that penetrates the rust and prevents (or at least slows) recurrence of the rust. I'd spray it into the cap for the can, let it dry a little so it is not so fluid, and dab it on with a small brush. You could even use their primer first, but that seems like overkill. There is also a product called "Rust Reformer" that converts rust to a non-reactive primer for solvent-based paints. I have some, but haven't tried it. The instructions say to just paint it on, let it sit for something like a half hour and paint over it with solvent based paint. I think the discussion about leveling the paint blobs is interesting, but I think it is overkill unless you are planning on giving up the lock, which also implies bike racks and use in an urban area, all of which are hard on paint. Most bikes have a thick paint letter composed of a primer, a base coat, the color coat and a clear coat. As thick as that is, I find it is often more of a problem to fill the ding up to level than to remove the excess. If you are putting paint on top of the surrounding paint, it will stick up, but careful use of a small brush can confine the paint to the damaged area. If I am fixing a long thin scratch, I will paint the scratch, then take a quick swipe with my finger to level it. The resulting thin smear can be left as is, removed with thinner or polished with cleaner wax. I have had several bikes with paint that would shatter and pop off with the slightest ding and found that the improvement based on simply filling the dings with paint that was close to the right color was impressive. It was also easy enough that I would do it regularly. With a bottle or two of the right fingernail polish, I could catch the dings as I got them and prevent rust altogether. "Mark" wrote in message om... Hi Feld, I'm surpirsed no one else has suggested this, and this may be an unusual way to beat the rust, but have to ever heard of a product called "Naval Jelly"? I would imagine a place such as Home Depot/Lowes would sell this product (or something similar) Where you just brush the product onto the rust, and it converts the rust to a paintable surface. Then after using this, you can go about touching up yout bike with a suitable touch up paint? Might be worth a try, and should hold back the rust for a while. Mark (feld) wrote in message . com... i have an old trek 500 from way back. it has a cro-moly frame. i live in brooklyn and the seasons here do hell to a frame alog with the constant use of a heavy duty chain lock. i have a group of small nicks in the clearcoat and paint from the chain hitting the frame that have rusted. i now wrap parts of my frame that get hit by the chain with old inner tubes and it works wonders. however, this doesnt get rid of the old rusted dings from before. any advice on how to get rid of the small spots of rust w/o damaging the surrounding paint? thanks! |
#8
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spot rust removing w/o damaging surounding paint
Dear Mark,
For background: I fix up and sell used bikes, repair bikes including what I call a "paint tune-up" and do custom painting. My experience shows that the most important appearance aspect of a bike is how good it looks as a person approaches it. The decision whether it basically a good looking bike is made from about ten feet away. This includes the owner who already knows what the bike looks like close-up. Up close is important for expensive new-looking bikes, but if there is a significant amount of damage, getting it to look new again is basically a matter of the same kind of bodywork and expense that it takes to repaint a fender on your car, except it is much harder to match the base color. At that point it is generally cheaper and gives better results to strip and refinish. Around here powder coating is very popular as it is not so fragile and the baking process ensures there is no hidden rust. Paints are only used by custom painters like me who are doing exotic multi layer pearls, candies, chameleons, and fancy airbrush decoration. Rust Removal and Touch-up I have some Naval Jelly and it does work. Unfortunately, the instructions say not to allow it to touch painted areas because it removes paint. I have not tested the paint removal qualities, but it did take the rust of an old freewheel very nicely. I use fingernail polish to fix the dings on my and my customer's bikes. Most colors are available except for yellows and for bikes, the cheap stuff works as well as the expensive. It is dry here in Colorado so rust isn't too much of a problem, but if I was up against a rust problem, I would take a pointy tool of some sort an scrape the pit before spotting it. If the rust were truly severe, I would also dry the pit with acetone (watch out for your paint!) and blow dry it before putting on the nail polish. Another solution would be to use Rustoleum paints. they have a special compound in them that penetrates the rust and prevents (or at least slows) recurrence of the rust. I'd spray it into the cap for the can, let it dry a little so it is not so fluid, and dab it on with a small brush. You could even use their primer first, but that seems like overkill. There is also a product called "Rust Reformer" that converts rust to a non-reactive primer for solvent-based paints. I have some, but haven't tried it. The instructions say to just paint it on, let it sit for something like a half hour and paint over it with solvent based paint. I think the discussion about leveling the paint blobs is interesting, but I think it is overkill unless you are planning on giving up the lock, which also implies bike racks and use in an urban area, all of which are hard on paint. Most bikes have a thick paint letter composed of a primer, a base coat, the color coat and a clear coat. As thick as that is, I find it is often more of a problem to fill the ding up to level than to remove the excess. If you are putting paint on top of the surrounding paint, it will stick up, but careful use of a small brush can confine the paint to the damaged area. If I am fixing a long thin scratch, I will paint the scratch, then take a quick swipe with my finger to level it. The resulting thin smear can be left as is, removed with thinner or polished with cleaner wax. I have had several bikes with paint that would shatter and pop off with the slightest ding and found that the improvement based on simply filling the dings with paint that was close to the right color was impressive. It was also easy enough that I would do it regularly. With a bottle or two of the right fingernail polish, I could catch the dings as I got them and prevent rust altogether. "Mark" wrote in message om... Hi Feld, I'm surpirsed no one else has suggested this, and this may be an unusual way to beat the rust, but have to ever heard of a product called "Naval Jelly"? I would imagine a place such as Home Depot/Lowes would sell this product (or something similar) Where you just brush the product onto the rust, and it converts the rust to a paintable surface. Then after using this, you can go about touching up yout bike with a suitable touch up paint? Might be worth a try, and should hold back the rust for a while. Mark (feld) wrote in message . com... i have an old trek 500 from way back. it has a cro-moly frame. i live in brooklyn and the seasons here do hell to a frame alog with the constant use of a heavy duty chain lock. i have a group of small nicks in the clearcoat and paint from the chain hitting the frame that have rusted. i now wrap parts of my frame that get hit by the chain with old inner tubes and it works wonders. however, this doesnt get rid of the old rusted dings from before. any advice on how to get rid of the small spots of rust w/o damaging the surrounding paint? thanks! |
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