7 Day Tour of Arran Kintyre Knapdale Cowal Bute (Scotland) July 2007.

I'm Irish, 57 and this was approximately my 53rd bike tour, my fourth
in Scotland. The kind of info in this account can be damned difficult
to get, so here goes. A lot of it I had to find out for myself. I will
grade scenery, difficulty of hills, accommodation and food out of 10,
to make matters easy.

Kit.
I used Trek Aluminium front suspension MTB converted for touring with
carrier and Fat Boy slick tyres. Mudguards held on my zipties. I like
this kind of bike for Scotland because of extra low gears. I also tour
on a Dawes Galaxy, but gears aren't quite as low. Mary my wife was on
a Dawes Galaxy. I use Ortlieb panniers which are 10 years old. One
thing I've never liked about them is the lack of compartments. Other
than that, they are totally waterproof and dead simple to put on and
off, and bombproof. A tip for a new user, if you've the roll top type.
You do NoT need to tie the buckles together at all. Just roll the top
and clip the centre strap. A second tip. Take off the hook which is
supposed to keep the pannier from swaying outward. It is totally
unnecessary. The bags don't sway because of the weight of their
contents.
We flew to Prestwick with Ryanair. We had to cycle on the "Bypass", a
main road to Ardrossan. It's not 12 miles as stated in some books.
It's 18. Tried the bike path and also on way back. It's poorly
signposted and frankly useless because of it.
Solution. Get the train. Train runs every 30 mins, at 10mins to and 20
past hour. Get train for Glasgow central from train station which is
upstairs at the airport. Change for Ardrossan at Kilwinning. I found
this out afterwards.
We got ferry to Brodick (o pronounced short). Takes 55 mins. A tip for
new Scottish tourer. You can get what are called Hopscotch tickets for
ferries which are for multiple different jounreys and great value. I'd
been around the southern side of Arran twice before. Headed north on
this occasion, along lovely villages and over the hard (8) long climb
before dropping down to Lochranza as it became dark. The famous rather
tame deer were in the water near the castle. We'd had our dinner on
the boat. Stayed in Croft Bank B&B. Previously booked. (8). You need
to book Lochranza as it has little accommodation. Had whiskies of
various type in Lochranza hotel. Prop. George Stuart. Nice man. Big
whisky fan, as I am. I was very impressed with the Arran Malt, a new
non-peated whiskey with a lovely flavour. Like an Irish whiskey. For
those of you who do not know about whisky, Irish whiskey is spelt with
an e, Scotch not. Irish whiskey, apart from the Connemara brand, is
not peated. Many if not most Scotches are, in this process the malted
barley is roasted over a fire made of peat, and the malt then takes up
this flavour. Also Irish whiskey is distilled 3 times, Scotch twice.
Irish tends to be milder and smoother in taste. I have no experience
of Canadian, American and Japanese whiskies, except that I don't
really like Jack Daniels. I stayed in that hotel before. Weather good.
About 38 miles that day, since lunchtime, including going astray. On
Arran 14 miles. This Lochranza hill is really no joke. You'll need a
triple chainset if you're human. Unless in Denmark or Holland, anyway,
I would always want a triple.

Next day had good breakfast from Pat, the very nice owner of Croft
Bank. Off on ferry to Claonaig. 25 mins. note. There is nothing and
nowhere to stay in Claonaig. Went down the B842 to Campbeltown. I've
done this twice before. Difficulty 10, scenery 10. This is only 28
miles but it's very difficult because of about 8 hills, all with steep
bits. Steepest gradient is 15% or more on several occasions. Scenery
is lovely and it's a quiet road. 28 miles is enough on this route.
Stayed in Ardshiel Hotel which I've stayed in twice before. Comfort
10, food 5, whiskey 10!
In the afternoon watched final round of British Open, and in a
playoff, our man, Padraig Harrington won his first Major. Enjoyed
that.

Next morning, in continuing superb weather headed out along harbour on
the small road which circles eventually to Southend. This had 3 steep
longish climbs on it. 8. Scenery 10. From about half way round we
could see Ireland. Great views. This route is ultra-quiet. It takes a
while and we saw maybe 5 cars. Went out towards Mull of Kintyre, took
photos and came back and had coffee in the only Cafe in Southend.
Quaint dining room. Nice people. It was in this shop/cafe a few years
ago that the man correctly identified from my accent, that I was from
the same city as Roy Keane. I mentioned this to the lady, and she
laughed. Husband not there at the time. "I hope you don't have his
temperament", sez she. Not hardly, as John Wayne used to say.
On we go to Campbeltown (pronounced Camelton by many) and then along
the stunning (10 if you have the weather) road to Tarbert. You can see
Islay, Jura and Gigha on this road. Some idiot allowed three of these
nonsense wind-generators on Gigha. Detracts slightly from view. Had
sardine and oatcake biscuit lunch on route. As Scotland has few lunch
places on cycling routes, these make a tasty snack.
Tarbert looks nice but has poor facilities. Stayed in fine room in
grotty hotel. Tarbert Hotel. Ate there. Lousy dining room but very
good food. I had chicken fillets stuffed with haggis. Yum. Saw
fabulous sunset over East Loch Tarbert.
Next day, weather still perfect, headed slightly south and then right
to Kilberry circuit. Had no information on this. This was very up and
down (7), very quiet and quite pretty (6). After Kilberry (I think)
turned left into caravan park and had nice cake and coffee and chat
with people. Onwards to Achahoish. We'd got info on this en route,
took left signposted "no through road to Castle Sween or such" and
continued along a beautiful bay, up road marked Private road and
turned right through gate marked Private road just before cattle grid.
This went up sharply, both sides poorly tarred. Had to walk short bits
twice because of steepness. Went across mountain for maybe three
miles. Had to pass cattle, all reassuringly heifers or bullocks.
Exited through more gates and on past Castle Sween, oldest stone
castle in Scotland, eventually to Crinan. Very very scenic (10),
mostly flat but with a couple of climbs (5). Sussed out Crinan but
hotel outrageously dear (130 stg per person B&B ). Onwards to
Cairnbaan where we stayed in the excellent Cairnbaan Hotel (130 per
room). Food 9. Super weather all day. About 65 miles.

Next day. Started damp. Dried before the off. North a little, right at
Bridgend then through a hilly spin via Kilmichael Glen to Lough Awe.
Took southern road. Northern marked as bike route. Took southern as
marked as scenic on Michelin map. Not really. Quiet but few proper
views of lake. Had lunch in the unmarked! Portsonochan Hotel.
Apparently everyone approaches hotel from the east so they have a sign
in that direction!!. Lovely hotel overlooking lake. We had sandwiches.
On to Inveraray. Big climb before dropping down to it (pron Inver
airy). Started to rain as we arrived. Stayed in Argyll Hotel.(5), food
(5). Stayed there before. Can't remember distance, maybe 45 miles.
Difficulty 7.

Next day it was wet until about lunctime. Dry after. Headed off on A83
and then A815 to Strachur and then A886 to Otter Ferry. Had good lunch
in Bay Cottage in Strachur. Soup etc. This is a post-office, shop and
cafe, and a fine cafe at that.
From Otter Ferry (called after a man called Otter) up Savage climb
(10) and down other side which looks worse. As steep as I've ever gone
down. I would hate to climb from that side. Some was easily 17%.
Turned left at bottom but mistake. Corrected, should be right. On to
Colintraive where we took the ultrashort ferry journey to Bute. Along
flat road to Port Bannatyne (dump) and then the lovely town of
Rothesay. Great setting. For your info, if you keep along shore you
come to B&B area. We stayed in the lovely newly refurbished Victoria
Hotel. Ate a fine meal in Esplanade Hotel and had big chat with
Glasgow couple our age, away for weekend. We're both 56. Had drinkies
in our own hotel's bar afterwards.
Next day sunny. South past the fabulous Mount Stuart, a huge Vicorian
mansion. Did not see inside as too early. On around Southern Circuit,
back to Rothesay and Colintraive. Rural Bute is agricultural with
great views to West. It was very windy. Snack in Rothesay. At
Colintraive had lovely lunch in hotel Bar and big discussion about
politics with 3 Scots there. Nationalists all.
Then back the road we came and on to Portavadie. Long long climbs. En
route had great views of Kyles of Bute. Through Tighnabruaich to
Portavadie. Waited for ferry to Tarbert. Had chat with 70y old
Scottish cyclist who was not cycling at this moment on the ferry. Had
done loads of touring in his time. Had problems finding somewhere
tolerable to stay. B&Bs full. Went to Stonefield Castle 2 miles north.
It was fabulous. Beautiful place, brilliant food. This is a gorgeous
old great house with modern restaurant etc. Fabulous grounds. A good
day's cycling.
Great scenery, difficulty 6.
Last Day.
Cycled to Tarbert, Claonaig, got ferry to Lochranza. A few short sharp
showers, otherwise sunny and wind at the back. Up the climb from
Lochranza and down the other side, watching several groups of
cycletourists struggling up this climb. We had seen very few up to
this.
Ferry from Brodick to Ardrossan and tried to follow cycleroute to
Prestwick, but this was unfollowable due to missing signs etc. We were
in and out of it for ages. You would want the map. Eventually reached
Troon where we stayed and had great fare in a grand hotel, the
Piersland Country House I think it was called. Great food and
reasonable for what you got. We were staying in a cottage suite with 2
rooms and good accommodation. Restaurant and bar posh and excellent.
B&B 110 for room. Home next day.
Summary. Very enjoyable tour, contributed heavily to by good weather.
There's no place as good as Scotland with the weather, though other
places run it close viz. West of Ireland, Devon and Cornwall, Corsica,
Yorkshire and .. er that's it.