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#11
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Diagnose this!
take it apart
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#12
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Diagnose this!
On May 3, 9:51 am, datakoll wrote:
take it apart Nice! If you could see the (at a minimum) thrice photocopied exploded diagram that came with the hub - Yikes! This isn't an ISO 9000 outfit for sure. May make a great hub, but they don't invest in localization nor high quality printing and documentation. And everything auf Deutsch. Anyhoo... the prize goes to Joseph! Those inserts that are in the spoke holes on the CXP33 must not always seat right. And I only stress-relieved the wheel once, mid-build, IIRC. So I stress-relieved it again, and on one spoke there was a slight creak when the spokes were squeezed. And the wheel went out of true. No wind-up in my wheels tho (use the mark and observe method). Noted as well the overall tension in the wheel had dropped! I trued and tensioned the wheel again and then rode up and down the driveway for about a half hour, grinding hard, spinning, and all efforts between. No creak. So I checked the wheel again, and there was a small but significant change in the trueness. Checked the tension and it was about the same. Trued, stress relieved, and raised the average DS tension to about 115 kgf. Rode it up and down the driveway again. No creak. At least I know where to start looking if the noise starts up again! And I do find this experience strange as the last CXP33 rims I built up built fast, easy and well. Even played Ben Hur with a buddy (his QR nut took out about 6 spokes) and rebuilt them and they are still going in perfect condition, no noises. Thanks again to all for their efforts! D'ohBoy |
#13
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Diagnose this!
D'ohBoy Wrote: On May 3, 9:51 am, datakoll wrote: take it apart Nice! If you could see the (at a minimum) thrice photocopied exploded diagram that came with the hub - Yikes! This isn't an ISO 9000 outfit for sure. May make a great hub, but they don't invest in localization nor high quality printing and documentation. And everything auf Deutsch. Anyhoo... the prize goes to Joseph! Those inserts that are in the spoke holes on the CXP33 must not always seat right. And I only stress-relieved the wheel once, mid-build, IIRC. So I stress-relieved it again, and on one spoke there was a slight creak when the spokes were squeezed. And the wheel went out of true. No wind-up in my wheels tho (use the mark and observe method). Noted as well the overall tension in the wheel had dropped! I trued and tensioned the wheel again and then rode up and down the driveway for about a half hour, grinding hard, spinning, and all efforts between. No creak. So I checked the wheel again, and there was a small but significant change in the trueness. Checked the tension and it was about the same. Trued, stress relieved, and raised the average DS tension to about 115 kgf. Rode it up and down the driveway again. No creak. At least I know where to start looking if the noise starts up again! And I do find this experience strange as the last CXP33 rims I built up built fast, easy and well. Even played Ben Hur with a buddy (his QR nut took out about 6 spokes) and rebuilt them and they are still going in perfect condition, no noises. Thanks again to all for their efforts! D'ohBoy CXP-33 nipple/insert interface can be fussy. Even the spring clips that hold the inserts in place can make noises. I had one CXP-33 that I rebuilt where I coated the nipple/insert interface with Anit-Seize lubricant to make the noises go away. Things were quiet and stable for over 2,000 miles when the spring clips started creaking and clicking. I pulled them all out and then things stayed silent until the rim finally died at over 12,000 miles... mostly due to brake track wear. -- daveornee |
#14
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Diagnose this!
On May 3, 10:56 am, daveornee daveornee.38u...@no-
mx.forums.cyclingforums.com wrote: D'ohBoy Wrote: On May 3, 9:51 am, datakoll wrote: take it apart Nice! If you could see the (at a minimum) thrice photocopied exploded diagram that came with the hub - Yikes! This isn't an ISO 9000 outfit for sure. May make a great hub, but they don't invest in localization nor high quality printing and documentation. And everything auf Deutsch. Anyhoo... the prize goes to Joseph! Those inserts that are in the spoke holes on the CXP33 must not always seat right. And I only stress-relieved the wheel once, mid-build, IIRC. So I stress-relieved it again, and on one spoke there was a slight creak when the spokes were squeezed. And the wheel went out of true. No wind-up in my wheels tho (use the mark and observe method). Noted as well the overall tension in the wheel had dropped! I trued and tensioned the wheel again and then rode up and down the driveway for about a half hour, grinding hard, spinning, and all efforts between. No creak. So I checked the wheel again, and there was a small but significant change in the trueness. Checked the tension and it was about the same. Trued, stress relieved, and raised the average DS tension to about 115 kgf. Rode it up and down the driveway again. No creak. At least I know where to start looking if the noise starts up again! And I do find this experience strange as the last CXP33 rims I built up built fast, easy and well. Even played Ben Hur with a buddy (his QR nut took out about 6 spokes) and rebuilt them and they are still going in perfect condition, no noises. Thanks again to all for their efforts! D'ohBoy CXP-33 nipple/insert interface can be fussy. Even the spring clips that hold the inserts in place can make noises. I had one CXP-33 that I rebuilt where I coated the nipple/insert interface with Anit-Seize lubricant to make the noises go away. Things were quiet and stable for over 2,000 miles when the spring clips started creaking and clicking. I pulled them all out and then things stayed silent until the rim finally died at over 12,000 miles... mostly due to brake track wear. -- daveornee Hi, Dave - You removed the spring clips? Do they come out easy or is there a lot of bending and twisting with needlenose pliers? I probably shoulda putzed with one somewhere along the line so I had a clear understanding of what things look like in there. Peter White loves these rims. I loved my last pair which I built up as a super duty 36 spoke f/r with 14/15 ga spokes. Sold them to a larger buddy of mine (~260 lbs and 6'5") who kept complaining about his 36 spoke Aeroheads going out of true. HAH! Aeroheads for a 260 lb dude who rides the Pyrenees? You gotta be kidding me - I don't care how many spokes on that rim, he's just too big. I realized I could go much lighter and still be durable under my ~210 lb avg wt so I helped a brother out. He mentions frequently that they feel heavier than his old wheels - but only lifting the bike. Funny thing though, they are rock solid and true 6 mos later. A period he woulda fussed with his old wheelset three or four times. Thanks for the info! D'ohBoy |
#15
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Diagnose this!
In article
, "D'ohBoy" wrote: On May 2, 11:08 pm, Michael Press wrote: In article , "D'ohBoy" wrote: So I am getting creaking that I have isolated to my new rear wheel. Here are the particulars: Tune Campy-compatible hub; CXP33 rim; 32 spokes, 3x 14/15 DS, radial CX-Ray NDS; I have swapped out the QR and it didnąt change the noise; I moved it to a different frame and the noise followed the wheel; I was unable to make the creak occur on the trainer; I have removed, cleaned, greased (lightly) and installed the cassette to torque spec (2x!); I rotated the cassette against the splines on the freehub prior to torquing per the instructions; I lubed the spoke holes with Prolink (needle applicator); I lubed the nipple shoulders with bearing grease when I built the wheels; I checked the spoke tension all the way round and none was outside 5% of mean tension; DS tension is 110 kgf ; NDS is whatever dishes it properly (I set the drive side and even up the NDS by gauge #); The creak comes and goes like it comes in and out of phase with my pedal stroke; Mostly the creak isnąt there and can be gone for an extended period of time but can be LOUD. One other weirdness: the hub appears to be about 2.5 mm wider than my Campy hubs. I am leaning toward either: 1. Pawls 2. Freehub 3. Some combination of the above 2 Any other suggestions? Help! I spent a crapload on that freaking hub and had a hell of a long wait and one mis-shipment of a shimano- compatible hub and an exchange before I got it and now itąs a POS. Or so I am starting to think. Suggestion. Stop fixing it, and locate the creak. -- Michael Press Hmmm... I thought what I was doing was eliminating possibilities and thereby locating the creak. Obviously, the re-install of the cassette twice was a bit of flailing. Putting it on the trainer was one attempt to do so. My helpful spouse was going to crouch near the rear wheel and try to locate the noise. However, as noted above, I could not reproduce it on the trainer. So locating the noise other than somewhere in the rear wheel will require deductive efforts rather than empirical. Or so I think. Got any better suggestions? One other note: included with the entirely auf Deutsch instructions was a computer printed note indicating that 40 nm was the recommended torque for the lockring rather than the Campy recommended 50 nm. I have been adhering to that torque value. Try different riding techniques and determine which generate the creak and those that do not. Pedal or do not pedal One foot pedaling, each foot by turns. Hand on the bars, hands off the bars, one hand on the bars, different hand positions. Standing, seated. These creaks can come from anywhere, and the frame will transmit them a several times the speed of sound in air. Very confusing. Folks have discovered odd creaks and ticks from all over: saddle, seat post, helmet, shoe lace on crank, ... -- Michael Press |
#16
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Diagnose this!
D'ohBoy Wrote: On May 3, 10:56 am, daveornee daveornee.38u...@no- mx.forums.cyclingforums.com wrote: D'ohBoy Wrote: On May 3, 9:51 am, datakoll wrote: take it apart Nice! If you could see the (at a minimum) thrice photocopied exploded diagram that came with the hub - Yikes! This isn't an ISO 9000 outfit for sure. May make a great hub, but they don't invest in localization nor high quality printing and documentation. And everything auf Deutsch. Anyhoo... the prize goes to Joseph! Those inserts that are in the spoke holes on the CXP33 must not always seat right. And I only stress-relieved the wheel once, mid-build, IIRC. So I stress-relieved it again, and on one spoke there was a slight creak when the spokes were squeezed. And the wheel went out of true. No wind-up in my wheels tho (use the mark and observe method). Noted as well the overall tension in the wheel had dropped! I trued and tensioned the wheel again and then rode up and down the driveway for about a half hour, grinding hard, spinning, and all efforts between. No creak. So I checked the wheel again, and there was a small but significant change in the trueness. Checked the tension and it was about the same. Trued, stress relieved, and raised the average DS tension to about 115 kgf. Rode it up and down the driveway again. No creak. At least I know where to start looking if the noise starts up again! And I do find this experience strange as the last CXP33 rims I built up built fast, easy and well. Even played Ben Hur with a buddy (his QR nut took out about 6 spokes) and rebuilt them and they are still going in perfect condition, no noises. Thanks again to all for their efforts! D'ohBoy CXP-33 nipple/insert interface can be fussy. Even the spring clips that hold the inserts in place can make noises. I had one CXP-33 that I rebuilt where I coated the nipple/insert interface with Anit-Seize lubricant to make the noises go away. Things were quiet and stable for over 2,000 miles when the spring clips started creaking and clicking. I pulled them all out and then things stayed silent until the rim finally died at over 12,000 miles... mostly due to brake track wear. -- daveornee Hi, Dave - You removed the spring clips? Do they come out easy or is there a lot of bending and twisting with needlenose pliers? I probably shoulda putzed with one somewhere along the line so I had a clear understanding of what things look like in there. Peter White loves these rims. I loved my last pair which I built up as a super duty 36 spoke f/r with 14/15 ga spokes. Sold them to a larger buddy of mine (~260 lbs and 6'5") who kept complaining about his 36 spoke Aeroheads going out of true. HAH! Aeroheads for a 260 lb dude who rides the Pyrenees? You gotta be kidding me - I don't care how many spokes on that rim, he's just too big. I realized I could go much lighter and still be durable under my ~210 lb avg wt so I helped a brother out. He mentions frequently that they feel heavier than his old wheels - but only lifting the bike. Funny thing though, they are rock solid and true 6 mos later. A period he woulda fussed with his old wheelset three or four times. Thanks for the info! D'ohBoy It has been a while since I removed the spring clips, but I think they came out easily with a fine needle nose pliers. They serve no structural purpose other than holding in the inserts (they don't tie the rim walls together like sockets in Open Pro or T520/A519). If I hadn't already had the wheel "perfectly" built, I likely would have pulled the inserts and put a coating of anti-seize lubricant on the rim/insert interface. I think that corrosion and disimilar metals are a cause of some of the noises I experienced. I don't think it is "fair" to compare CXP-33 to Aerohead. I think a closer comparison is CXP-33 to Fusion. I have had significantly better results with most current Velocity rims than current Mavic rims. -- daveornee |
#17
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Diagnose this!
daveornee wrote:
I have had significantly better results with most current Velocity rims than current Mavic rims. Much agreed. Maybe even an understatement. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** |
#18
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Diagnose this!
Andrew Muzi wrote:
daveornee wrote: I have had significantly better results with most current Velocity rims than current Mavic rims. Much agreed. Maybe even an understatement. Don't tell Bourbon Man! -- Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia The weather is here, wish you were beautiful |
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