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Friction shifter squeal, fix?



 
 
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  #21  
Old September 8th 15, 05:44 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
ian field
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,008
Default Friction shifter squeal, fix?


"Frank Krygowski" wrote in message
...
On 9/8/2015 10:40 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/8/2015 9:13 AM, Joerg wrote:
... Long term I'll have to do
something about those steel guide slots underneath the BB.
We have a lot of dirt and bush roads where crud cakes itself
in there.


Toothbrush, really, followed by a drop of oil on the wire.


I prefer a dry lube there. Anything moist seems to gather grit very
quickly.


Most dry lubes are powdered Teflon.

GT85 contains Teflon, and the penetrating oil component evaporates
(eventually).

Ads
  #22  
Old September 8th 15, 08:30 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Lou Holtman[_7_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 628
Default Friction shifter squeal, fix?

Joerg wrote:
On 2015-09-08 4:38 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/7/2015 2:29 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2015-09-07 12:06 PM, wrote:
On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 11:48:22 AM UTC-7, Joerg
wrote:
Folks,

Lately my old Shimano 600 friction shifter levers let off an
annoying squeal when moving them. Shifting is ok but it's
embarrassing when other road bikers are around.

A drop of oil didn't help. Can I use some sort of lube on
their
inner surfaces? LiquiMoly LM48 maybe? Some other trick?
Wanted to
ask here before I do something where they'll never work
right
anymore and someone will say "Oh, you shouldn't have done
that".

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

I've never seen this before but I can imagine after all
these years
that bearing surface is probably dried out with caked dirt
and
grease. Set the levers parallel with the downtube and
rotate the
wheels so that the derailleurs go to their neutral
positions (small
cog and smallest ring). This should give enough slack to
unscrew and
remove the levers. Remember that you can get some slack by
rotating
the derailleurs a little.

Using WD40 or some such to cut through the sludge clean
the bearing
surfaces including inside of the levers. Make sure there
is nothing
remaining of any junk. Inspect closely for any cracks in
the downtube
mounts and in the lever bodies.

Re-lube with a light grease and NOT OIL upon reassembly.
Bearings are
not supposed to have oil on them. They are supposed to be
greased.
Make sure that the cables are in the grooves for them on
the levers.


Thank you. I just tried your recipe with the FD shifter and
ball bearing grease sparingly applied. Now it needs to be
tightened a bit more than usual in order not to gradually
slide back and it makes a slight grinding noise but ... no
more squeal. Next ride is tomorrow and if this works I'll do
the same with the RD shifter.

The inner black steel ring with the two locking notches had
some rust on it.


Grease or machine oil work equally well for that.


I did both now. Works quite well.


Hmm, oil and grease as a solution for noises from a pivot. What a concept.
Briljant.

Long term I'll have to do something about those steel guide slots
underneath the BB. We have a lot of dirt and bush
roads where crud cakes itself in there.


The most underestimated cause for shifting trouble by the ignorant.
Cleaning your chain with little dental brushes and leaving the crud on the
cable guides under the bottom bracket. Reconsider your priorities.

--
Lou
  #23  
Old September 8th 15, 09:09 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
ian field
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,008
Default Friction shifter squeal, fix?


"Phil W Lee" wrote in message
...
Joerg considered Tue, 08 Sep 2015
08:02:25 -0700 the perfect time to write:

On 2015-09-08 7:40 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/8/2015 9:13 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2015-09-08 4:38 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/7/2015 2:29 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2015-09-07 12:06 PM, wrote:
On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 11:48:22 AM UTC-7, Joerg
wrote:
Folks,

Lately my old Shimano 600 friction shifter levers let
off an
annoying squeal when moving them. Shifting is ok but it's
embarrassing when other road bikers are around.

A drop of oil didn't help. Can I use some sort of lube on
their
inner surfaces? LiquiMoly LM48 maybe? Some other trick?
Wanted to
ask here before I do something where they'll never work
right
anymore and someone will say "Oh, you shouldn't have done
that".

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

I've never seen this before but I can imagine after all
these years
that bearing surface is probably dried out with caked dirt
and
grease. Set the levers parallel with the downtube and
rotate the
wheels so that the derailleurs go to their neutral
positions (small
cog and smallest ring). This should give enough slack to
unscrew and
remove the levers. Remember that you can get some slack by
rotating
the derailleurs a little.

Using WD40 or some such to cut through the sludge clean
the bearing
surfaces including inside of the levers. Make sure there
is nothing
remaining of any junk. Inspect closely for any cracks in
the downtube
mounts and in the lever bodies.

Re-lube with a light grease and NOT OIL upon reassembly.
Bearings are
not supposed to have oil on them. They are supposed to be
greased.
Make sure that the cables are in the grooves for them on
the levers.


Thank you. I just tried your recipe with the FD shifter and
ball bearing grease sparingly applied. Now it needs to be
tightened a bit more than usual in order not to gradually
slide back and it makes a slight grinding noise but ... no
more squeal. Next ride is tomorrow and if this works I'll do
the same with the RD shifter.

The inner black steel ring with the two locking notches had
some rust on it.


Grease or machine oil work equally well for that.


I did both now. Works quite well. Long term I'll have to do
something about those steel guide slots underneath the BB.
We have a lot of dirt and bush roads where crud cakes itself
in there.


Toothbrush, really, followed by a drop of oil on the wire.


But probably not the grimy toothbrush I use on the MTB chain :-)

I did use a toothbrush for this job yesterday but then bearing grease,
hoping it'll stick a little longer in there.

One remarkable cleaning device I discovered recently are disposable
interdental brushes. They look like microscopic bottle brushes and are
excellent in cleaning small crevices on bicycles, most importanly inside
the chain links. So now I use them for my teeth and instead of tossing I
clean the little brushes, let them dry, use them once more on the bikes,
then throw them away. It didn't speed up the MTB chain maintenance a lot
but the chain is cleaner afterwards.


http://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html


If your time is worth anything at all - it'd be cheaper to just buy another
chain!

When I can't be bothered taking the chain off and washing it in kerosene, I
just lubricate it regularly with motor oil - that contains anti-sludging
detergents that emulsify easily. A few journeys in rain and the chain is
clean as a whistle.

With new or freshly cleaned chains, I start off with molybdenum lubricants
to treat the bearing surfaces, then carry on with Teflon lubricants.

  #24  
Old September 8th 15, 09:29 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,016
Default Friction shifter squeal, fix?

On 2015-09-08 1:09 PM, Ian Field wrote:

"Phil W Lee" wrote in message
...
Joerg considered Tue, 08 Sep 2015
08:02:25 -0700 the perfect time to write:

On 2015-09-08 7:40 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/8/2015 9:13 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2015-09-08 4:38 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/7/2015 2:29 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2015-09-07 12:06 PM, wrote:
On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 11:48:22 AM UTC-7, Joerg
wrote:
Folks,

Lately my old Shimano 600 friction shifter levers let
off an
annoying squeal when moving them. Shifting is ok but it's
embarrassing when other road bikers are around.

A drop of oil didn't help. Can I use some sort of lube on
their
inner surfaces? LiquiMoly LM48 maybe? Some other trick?
Wanted to
ask here before I do something where they'll never work
right
anymore and someone will say "Oh, you shouldn't have done
that".

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

I've never seen this before but I can imagine after all
these years
that bearing surface is probably dried out with caked dirt
and
grease. Set the levers parallel with the downtube and
rotate the
wheels so that the derailleurs go to their neutral
positions (small
cog and smallest ring). This should give enough slack to
unscrew and
remove the levers. Remember that you can get some slack by
rotating
the derailleurs a little.

Using WD40 or some such to cut through the sludge clean
the bearing
surfaces including inside of the levers. Make sure there
is nothing
remaining of any junk. Inspect closely for any cracks in
the downtube
mounts and in the lever bodies.

Re-lube with a light grease and NOT OIL upon reassembly.
Bearings are
not supposed to have oil on them. They are supposed to be
greased.
Make sure that the cables are in the grooves for them on
the levers.


Thank you. I just tried your recipe with the FD shifter and
ball bearing grease sparingly applied. Now it needs to be
tightened a bit more than usual in order not to gradually
slide back and it makes a slight grinding noise but ... no
more squeal. Next ride is tomorrow and if this works I'll do
the same with the RD shifter.

The inner black steel ring with the two locking notches had
some rust on it.


Grease or machine oil work equally well for that.


I did both now. Works quite well. Long term I'll have to do
something about those steel guide slots underneath the BB.
We have a lot of dirt and bush roads where crud cakes itself
in there.


Toothbrush, really, followed by a drop of oil on the wire.


But probably not the grimy toothbrush I use on the MTB chain :-)

I did use a toothbrush for this job yesterday but then bearing grease,
hoping it'll stick a little longer in there.

One remarkable cleaning device I discovered recently are disposable
interdental brushes. They look like microscopic bottle brushes and are
excellent in cleaning small crevices on bicycles, most importanly inside
the chain links. So now I use them for my teeth and instead of tossing I
clean the little brushes, let them dry, use them once more on the bikes,
then throw them away. It didn't speed up the MTB chain maintenance a lot
but the chain is cleaner afterwards.


http://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html


If your time is worth anything at all - it'd be cheaper to just buy
another chain!


I've met mountain bikers whose chains don't last 500 miles. The reason
was rather obvious. This does not only ruin the chain in no time but
also chain rings and cassettes.

Ok, a lawyer or dentist might make so much money that they can just
regularly plop down $200-300 at the bike dealer to have that whole
enchilada replaced all the time. Even if I were that wealthy I do not
subscribe to such a throw-away mentality.


When I can't be bothered taking the chain off and washing it in
kerosene, I just lubricate it regularly with motor oil - that contains
anti-sludging detergents that emulsify easily. A few journeys in rain
and the chain is clean as a whistle.


Very few miles on a dusty trails and such a chain will start grinding
away at the cassette and chain rings. Then those start aging, fast.


With new or freshly cleaned chains, I start off with molybdenum
lubricants to treat the bearing surfaces, then carry on with Teflon
lubricants.



You probably don't mountain bike a lot :-)

After cleaning my MTB chain it purrs nicely for 20 miles or so. After
40-50 miles it grinds and it's back onto the work bench. Just a normal
day in paradise.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
  #25  
Old September 8th 15, 09:32 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,016
Default Friction shifter squeal, fix?

On 2015-09-08 12:30 PM, Lou Holtman wrote:
Joerg wrote:
On 2015-09-08 4:38 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/7/2015 2:29 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2015-09-07 12:06 PM, wrote:
On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 11:48:22 AM UTC-7, Joerg
wrote:
Folks,

Lately my old Shimano 600 friction shifter levers let off an
annoying squeal when moving them. Shifting is ok but it's
embarrassing when other road bikers are around.

A drop of oil didn't help. Can I use some sort of lube on
their
inner surfaces? LiquiMoly LM48 maybe? Some other trick?
Wanted to
ask here before I do something where they'll never work
right
anymore and someone will say "Oh, you shouldn't have done
that".

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

I've never seen this before but I can imagine after all
these years
that bearing surface is probably dried out with caked dirt
and
grease. Set the levers parallel with the downtube and
rotate the
wheels so that the derailleurs go to their neutral
positions (small
cog and smallest ring). This should give enough slack to
unscrew and
remove the levers. Remember that you can get some slack by
rotating
the derailleurs a little.

Using WD40 or some such to cut through the sludge clean
the bearing
surfaces including inside of the levers. Make sure there
is nothing
remaining of any junk. Inspect closely for any cracks in
the downtube
mounts and in the lever bodies.

Re-lube with a light grease and NOT OIL upon reassembly.
Bearings are
not supposed to have oil on them. They are supposed to be
greased.
Make sure that the cables are in the grooves for them on
the levers.


Thank you. I just tried your recipe with the FD shifter and
ball bearing grease sparingly applied. Now it needs to be
tightened a bit more than usual in order not to gradually
slide back and it makes a slight grinding noise but ... no
more squeal. Next ride is tomorrow and if this works I'll do
the same with the RD shifter.

The inner black steel ring with the two locking notches had
some rust on it.


Grease or machine oil work equally well for that.


I did both now. Works quite well.


Hmm, oil and grease as a solution for noises from a pivot. What a concept.
Briljant.


Well, it works. What else would be important?


Long term I'll have to do something about those steel guide slots
underneath the BB. We have a lot of dirt and bush
roads where crud cakes itself in there.


The most underestimated cause for shifting trouble by the ignorant.
Cleaning your chain with little dental brushes and leaving the crud on the
cable guides under the bottom bracket. Reconsider your priorities.


That crud made no difference and it'll be right back on after the next
bush road trip. Which will be this afternoon. Priorities in the Wild
West are slightly different than in the Netherlands where I've also
lived and rode this same bike.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
  #26  
Old September 8th 15, 09:35 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
ian field
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,008
Default Friction shifter squeal, fix?


"Joerg" wrote in message
...
On 2015-09-08 1:09 PM, Ian Field wrote:

"Phil W Lee" wrote in message
...
Joerg considered Tue, 08 Sep 2015
08:02:25 -0700 the perfect time to write:

On 2015-09-08 7:40 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/8/2015 9:13 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2015-09-08 4:38 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/7/2015 2:29 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2015-09-07 12:06 PM, wrote:
On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 11:48:22 AM UTC-7, Joerg
wrote:
Folks,

Lately my old Shimano 600 friction shifter levers let
off an
annoying squeal when moving them. Shifting is ok but it's
embarrassing when other road bikers are around.

A drop of oil didn't help. Can I use some sort of lube on
their
inner surfaces? LiquiMoly LM48 maybe? Some other trick?
Wanted to
ask here before I do something where they'll never work
right
anymore and someone will say "Oh, you shouldn't have done
that".

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

I've never seen this before but I can imagine after all
these years
that bearing surface is probably dried out with caked dirt
and
grease. Set the levers parallel with the downtube and
rotate the
wheels so that the derailleurs go to their neutral
positions (small
cog and smallest ring). This should give enough slack to
unscrew and
remove the levers. Remember that you can get some slack by
rotating
the derailleurs a little.

Using WD40 or some such to cut through the sludge clean
the bearing
surfaces including inside of the levers. Make sure there
is nothing
remaining of any junk. Inspect closely for any cracks in
the downtube
mounts and in the lever bodies.

Re-lube with a light grease and NOT OIL upon reassembly.
Bearings are
not supposed to have oil on them. They are supposed to be
greased.
Make sure that the cables are in the grooves for them on
the levers.


Thank you. I just tried your recipe with the FD shifter and
ball bearing grease sparingly applied. Now it needs to be
tightened a bit more than usual in order not to gradually
slide back and it makes a slight grinding noise but ... no
more squeal. Next ride is tomorrow and if this works I'll do
the same with the RD shifter.

The inner black steel ring with the two locking notches had
some rust on it.


Grease or machine oil work equally well for that.


I did both now. Works quite well. Long term I'll have to do
something about those steel guide slots underneath the BB.
We have a lot of dirt and bush roads where crud cakes itself
in there.


Toothbrush, really, followed by a drop of oil on the wire.


But probably not the grimy toothbrush I use on the MTB chain :-)

I did use a toothbrush for this job yesterday but then bearing grease,
hoping it'll stick a little longer in there.

One remarkable cleaning device I discovered recently are disposable
interdental brushes. They look like microscopic bottle brushes and are
excellent in cleaning small crevices on bicycles, most importanly
inside
the chain links. So now I use them for my teeth and instead of tossing
I
clean the little brushes, let them dry, use them once more on the
bikes,
then throw them away. It didn't speed up the MTB chain maintenance a
lot
but the chain is cleaner afterwards.

http://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html


If your time is worth anything at all - it'd be cheaper to just buy
another chain!


I've met mountain bikers whose chains don't last 500 miles. The reason was
rather obvious. This does not only ruin the chain in no time but also
chain rings and cassettes.

Ok, a lawyer or dentist might make so much money that they can just
regularly plop down $200-300 at the bike dealer to have that whole
enchilada replaced all the time. Even if I were that wealthy I do not
subscribe to such a throw-away mentality.


When I can't be bothered taking the chain off and washing it in
kerosene, I just lubricate it regularly with motor oil - that contains
anti-sludging detergents that emulsify easily. A few journeys in rain
and the chain is clean as a whistle.


Very few miles on a dusty trails and such a chain will start grinding away
at the cassette and chain rings. Then those start aging, fast.


With new or freshly cleaned chains, I start off with molybdenum
lubricants to treat the bearing surfaces, then carry on with Teflon
lubricants.



You probably don't mountain bike a lot :-)


Someone recently asked if I'd been trialling on it.

Actually no - but I use a few unpaved cycle tracks.

  #27  
Old September 9th 15, 01:11 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,016
Default Friction shifter squeal, fix?

On 2015-09-08 1:35 PM, Ian Field wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
On 2015-09-08 1:09 PM, Ian Field wrote:


[...]

When I can't be bothered taking the chain off and washing it in
kerosene, I just lubricate it regularly with motor oil - that contains
anti-sludging detergents that emulsify easily. A few journeys in rain
and the chain is clean as a whistle.


Very few miles on a dusty trails and such a chain will start grinding
away at the cassette and chain rings. Then those start aging, fast.


With new or freshly cleaned chains, I start off with molybdenum
lubricants to treat the bearing surfaces, then carry on with Teflon
lubricants.



You probably don't mountain bike a lot :-)


Someone recently asked if I'd been trialling on it.

Actually no - but I use a few unpaved cycle tracks.



I also did today, had to. Gravel roads are ok, they have a fine
blueish-gray dust which somehow doesn't get in there as fast. But real
dirt roads turn a chain brown within less than 10 miles out here. Then
after 20 miles or so you start "hearing" the chain. After 40-50 miles it
can be ghastly, to the point where I walked the MTB up the last (paved)
hill to our house in order not to wear the cassette. When I clean it
about half a shotglass worth of "dust turds" comes out of the chain,
mixed with grass pudding, mashed wood, yellow star-thistle mousse and
other delicatessen. Also needs to be scraped out of the cassette and off
the chain rings.

The road bike can go up to 200mi between chain cleanings. However, the
grime on its chain is always black and not brown like on the MTB. Which
makes me wonder what goes into my lungs during road rides. Diesel soot?

Gripe: Why can't they make sturdy side walls anymore? Today I gashed
another 3-4 side wall fibers in the Gatorskin up front. Hurumph! Grumble.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
  #28  
Old September 9th 15, 01:16 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,374
Default Friction shifter squeal, fix?

On Tuesday, September 8, 2015 at 4:09:20 PM UTC-4, Ian Field wrote:
"Phil W Lee" wrote in message
...
Joerg considered Tue, 08 Sep 2015
08:02:25 -0700 the perfect time to write:

On 2015-09-08 7:40 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/8/2015 9:13 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2015-09-08 4:38 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/7/2015 2:29 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2015-09-07 12:06 PM, wrote:
On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 11:48:22 AM UTC-7, Joerg
wrote:
Folks,

Lately my old Shimano 600 friction shifter levers let
off an
annoying squeal when moving them. Shifting is ok but it's
embarrassing when other road bikers are around.

A drop of oil didn't help. Can I use some sort of lube on
their
inner surfaces? LiquiMoly LM48 maybe? Some other trick?
Wanted to
ask here before I do something where they'll never work
right
anymore and someone will say "Oh, you shouldn't have done
that".

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

I've never seen this before but I can imagine after all
these years
that bearing surface is probably dried out with caked dirt
and
grease. Set the levers parallel with the downtube and
rotate the
wheels so that the derailleurs go to their neutral
positions (small
cog and smallest ring). This should give enough slack to
unscrew and
remove the levers. Remember that you can get some slack by
rotating
the derailleurs a little.

Using WD40 or some such to cut through the sludge clean
the bearing
surfaces including inside of the levers. Make sure there
is nothing
remaining of any junk. Inspect closely for any cracks in
the downtube
mounts and in the lever bodies.

Re-lube with a light grease and NOT OIL upon reassembly.
Bearings are
not supposed to have oil on them. They are supposed to be
greased.
Make sure that the cables are in the grooves for them on
the levers.


Thank you. I just tried your recipe with the FD shifter and
ball bearing grease sparingly applied. Now it needs to be
tightened a bit more than usual in order not to gradually
slide back and it makes a slight grinding noise but ... no
more squeal. Next ride is tomorrow and if this works I'll do
the same with the RD shifter.

The inner black steel ring with the two locking notches had
some rust on it.


Grease or machine oil work equally well for that.


I did both now. Works quite well. Long term I'll have to do
something about those steel guide slots underneath the BB.
We have a lot of dirt and bush roads where crud cakes itself
in there.


Toothbrush, really, followed by a drop of oil on the wire.


But probably not the grimy toothbrush I use on the MTB chain :-)

I did use a toothbrush for this job yesterday but then bearing grease,
hoping it'll stick a little longer in there.

One remarkable cleaning device I discovered recently are disposable
interdental brushes. They look like microscopic bottle brushes and are
excellent in cleaning small crevices on bicycles, most importanly inside
the chain links. So now I use them for my teeth and instead of tossing I
clean the little brushes, let them dry, use them once more on the bikes,
then throw them away. It didn't speed up the MTB chain maintenance a lot
but the chain is cleaner afterwards.


http://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html


If your time is worth anything at all - it'd be cheaper to just buy another
chain!

When I can't be bothered taking the chain off and washing it in kerosene, I
just lubricate it regularly with motor oil - that contains anti-sludging
detergents that emulsify easily. A few journeys in rain and the chain is
clean as a whistle.

With new or freshly cleaned chains, I start off with molybdenum lubricants
to treat the bearing surfaces, then carry on with Teflon lubricants.


nnnnnnn

another plumber
  #29  
Old September 9th 15, 01:21 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,374
Default Friction shifter squeal, fix?

Lou....AFAIK J doesn't use dirt guards. The soil there gets very tacky when solutioned in lubricant. I need to stop n wash the van's windshield with dishwasher dilute detergent and a car wash hose...2-3 times. Ugly

Yawl have some kind of loam ?
  #30  
Old September 9th 15, 01:35 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Sir Ridesalot
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,270
Default Friction shifter squeal, fix?

On Tuesday, September 8, 2015 at 4:29:37 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
On 2015-09-08 1:09 PM, Ian Field wrote:

"Phil W Lee" wrote in message
...
Joerg considered Tue, 08 Sep 2015
08:02:25 -0700 the perfect time to write:

On 2015-09-08 7:40 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/8/2015 9:13 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2015-09-08 4:38 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/7/2015 2:29 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2015-09-07 12:06 PM, wrote:
On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 11:48:22 AM UTC-7, Joerg
wrote:
Folks,

Lately my old Shimano 600 friction shifter levers let
off an
annoying squeal when moving them. Shifting is ok but it's
embarrassing when other road bikers are around.

A drop of oil didn't help. Can I use some sort of lube on
their
inner surfaces? LiquiMoly LM48 maybe? Some other trick?
Wanted to
ask here before I do something where they'll never work
right
anymore and someone will say "Oh, you shouldn't have done
that".

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

I've never seen this before but I can imagine after all
these years
that bearing surface is probably dried out with caked dirt
and
grease. Set the levers parallel with the downtube and
rotate the
wheels so that the derailleurs go to their neutral
positions (small
cog and smallest ring). This should give enough slack to
unscrew and
remove the levers. Remember that you can get some slack by
rotating
the derailleurs a little.

Using WD40 or some such to cut through the sludge clean
the bearing
surfaces including inside of the levers. Make sure there
is nothing
remaining of any junk. Inspect closely for any cracks in
the downtube
mounts and in the lever bodies.

Re-lube with a light grease and NOT OIL upon reassembly.
Bearings are
not supposed to have oil on them. They are supposed to be
greased.
Make sure that the cables are in the grooves for them on
the levers.


Thank you. I just tried your recipe with the FD shifter and
ball bearing grease sparingly applied. Now it needs to be
tightened a bit more than usual in order not to gradually
slide back and it makes a slight grinding noise but ... no
more squeal. Next ride is tomorrow and if this works I'll do
the same with the RD shifter.

The inner black steel ring with the two locking notches had
some rust on it.


Grease or machine oil work equally well for that.


I did both now. Works quite well. Long term I'll have to do
something about those steel guide slots underneath the BB.
We have a lot of dirt and bush roads where crud cakes itself
in there.


Toothbrush, really, followed by a drop of oil on the wire.


But probably not the grimy toothbrush I use on the MTB chain :-)

I did use a toothbrush for this job yesterday but then bearing grease,
hoping it'll stick a little longer in there.

One remarkable cleaning device I discovered recently are disposable
interdental brushes. They look like microscopic bottle brushes and are
excellent in cleaning small crevices on bicycles, most importanly inside
the chain links. So now I use them for my teeth and instead of tossing I
clean the little brushes, let them dry, use them once more on the bikes,
then throw them away. It didn't speed up the MTB chain maintenance a lot
but the chain is cleaner afterwards.

http://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html


If your time is worth anything at all - it'd be cheaper to just buy
another chain!


I've met mountain bikers whose chains don't last 500 miles. The reason
was rather obvious. This does not only ruin the chain in no time but
also chain rings and cassettes.

Ok, a lawyer or dentist might make so much money that they can just
regularly plop down $200-300 at the bike dealer to have that whole
enchilada replaced all the time. Even if I were that wealthy I do not
subscribe to such a throw-away mentality.


When I can't be bothered taking the chain off and washing it in
kerosene, I just lubricate it regularly with motor oil - that contains
anti-sludging detergents that emulsify easily. A few journeys in rain
and the chain is clean as a whistle.


Very few miles on a dusty trails and such a chain will start grinding
away at the cassette and chain rings. Then those start aging, fast.


With new or freshly cleaned chains, I start off with molybdenum
lubricants to treat the bearing surfaces, then carry on with Teflon
lubricants.



You probably don't mountain bike a lot :-)

After cleaning my MTB chain it purrs nicely for 20 miles or so. After
40-50 miles it grinds and it's back onto the work bench. Just a normal
day in paradise.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/


You and you MTB friends must be doing something very wrong (or you're using the cheapest chains) if your MTB chain is only lasting 500 miles. Dito for a grinding chain after only 20 miles. Even the very heavy dust on the trails I ride don't cause that kind of wear and I'm talking dust so thick I wear a dust mask to protect my lungs.

Cheers
 




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