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cassette clockwise arrow 40 nm
Hello again everyone!
Now I've moved on from the Swedish and Norwegian standard bikes of the 70s into the most recent of bike technology, namely the mountain-bike or "MTB"! I read on the cassette that you should pull it 40 nm. There is even an arrow pointing the way. It is the well-known way, but OK. I know there is a tool for this - torque wrench, right? I don't have one, but I do have the everyday half-inch ratchet, and the special socket with all the teeth (?) - of 40 nm, I know only this is a lot and the reason I know this is every time I remove it, it is stuck like, very firmly! When I pull, I hear a crash sound three or four times. This seems to be normal. I asked the local guru who did bikes since the 80s. He also claimed he was a master after only two years. Anyway he suggested it was sand! But I'm not that stupid I don't make the parts rudimentary clean before I operate them. So it is not sand. Besides the sound is much to big to be sand. Anyway what do you guys make of all this? -- underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic - so far: 69 Blogomatic articles - |
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#2
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cassette clockwise arrow 40 nm
On 06/03/2017 3:19 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Hello again everyone! Now I've moved on from the Swedish and Norwegian standard bikes of the 70s into the most recent of bike technology, namely the mountain-bike or "MTB"! I read on the cassette that you should pull it 40 nm. There is even an arrow pointing the way. It is the well-known way, but OK. I know there is a tool for this - torque wrench, right? I don't have one, but I do have the everyday half-inch ratchet, and the special socket with all the teeth (?) - of 40 nm, I know only this is a lot and the reason I know this is every time I remove it, it is stuck like, very firmly! When I pull, I hear a crash sound three or four times. This seems to be normal. I asked the local guru who did bikes since the 80s. He also claimed he was a master after only two years. Anyway he suggested it was sand! But I'm not that stupid I don't make the parts rudimentary clean before I operate them. So it is not sand. Besides the sound is much to big to be sand. Anyway what do you guys make of all this? Get a torque wrench and tighten it to 40nm. |
#3
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cassette clockwise arrow 40 nm
I DOAHNO WHAT YOUR HEARING... check the threads...all thread groovesa re 100% clean in mounting cassettes
40 Newton Meters to Foot-pounds Force = 29.5025 this is TIGHT plus a hair ... if you have a 6" ratchet handle n push down tight n then after a paws..squeeze down again...the metal is elastic n bounces back use blue Loctite on a CHOH clean surface. this way it stays on then comes off. a common ft pound torque wrench will be best. |
#4
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cassette clockwise arrow 40 nm
On Mon, 06 Mar 2017 21:19:55 +0100
Emanuel Berg wrote: I know there is a tool for this - torque wrench, right? If you don't have enough experience to have calibrated hands then that's the only way. C'mon, compared to having things fail a half-decent torque-wrench is cheap. Mine are ex-military Britool from a motorcycle autojumble. Not quite up to Snap-On quality, but still good. I don't use them them on bicycles though, just use my hands ;-) Mike |
#5
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cassette clockwise arrow 40 nm
On 2017-03-06 12:19, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Hello again everyone! Now I've moved on from the Swedish and Norwegian standard bikes of the 70s into the most recent of bike technology, namely the mountain-bike or "MTB"! I read on the cassette that you should pull it 40 nm. There is even an arrow pointing the way. It is the well-known way, but OK. I know there is a tool for this - torque wrench, right? I don't have one, but I do have the everyday half-inch ratchet, and the special socket with all the teeth (?) - I use a regular wrench, note the length, calculate the required pull force at the end and then I use a suitcase scales that my sister gave me. A digital one with a hook where you normally lift a suitcase with to see if it is still under the required 50lbs. Under $10. of 40 nm, I know only this is a lot and the reason I know this is every time I remove it, it is stuck like, very firmly! It is a lot. But I thought you Vikings are all supermen with lots of muscle, exclaiming a loud "uff da" and off the cassette comes :-) When I pull, I hear a crash sound three or four times. This seems to be normal. I asked the local guru who did bikes since the 80s. He also claimed he was a master after only two years. Anyway he suggested it was sand! But I'm not that stupid I don't make the parts rudimentary clean before I operate them. So it is not sand. Besides the sound is much to big to be sand. Anyway what do you guys make of all this? On my Shimano cassettes the end piece that tightens it up has teeth inside so it will make a loud ratchet sound at the end. I guess that was done so it won't come loose during a ride. If the outer sprocket would ever slip off and turn free while pedaling hard you could have a major crash. So it better not come off. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#6
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cassette clockwise arrow 40 nm
itsnot muscle ...the tightness is goal. 26 pounds isnot TIGHT TIGHT....35 pounds is TIGHT TIGHT ...Shimano wants you to squeeze the parts together snug and tight but not bend the assembly.
lubricating threads with locktite helps give an accurate reading. dry threads give an inaccurate reading. if finding a torque wrench drill holes in a hardwood board n mount various size nuts/bolts/washers n torque down to see what ...compare to trying for 26 pounds without the torque wrench. |
#7
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cassette clockwise arrow 40 nm
Duane wrote:
Get a torque wrench and tighten it to 40nm. Indeed, I'm all for getting the right gear! Eventually I hope to own every single tool there is for doing bikes. And I'm getting closer! I even have ancient Torpedo tools ("hook wrenches?") for their ring lock nuts - you need two of those to seal their 3-speed hub - the only tools for the entire hub by the way! Nowadays, it is almost fun realizing there is a tool you don't have, at least if you can get it A torque wrench which is half-inch, 45 cm, and 28-210 Nm is 339 SEK ~($44, £36, or €42) at the quality-tool shop so yes, in the long run I sure hope to get one of those, God willing. -- underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic - so far: 69 Blogomatic articles - |
#8
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cassette clockwise arrow 40 nm
Mike Causer wrote:
If you don't have enough experience to have calibrated hands then that's the only way. C'mon, compared to having things fail a half-decent torque-wrench is cheap. Mine are ex-military Britool from a motorcycle autojumble. Not quite up to Snap-On quality, but still good. I don't use them them on bicycles though, just use my hands ;-) Shouldn't ex-military British stuff be very good? Hey, it is where the industrial revolution began. By the way, if the industrial revolution happened in the southern hemisphere, do you think we would put screws in the other way around? -- underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic - so far: 69 Blogomatic articles - |
#9
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cassette clockwise arrow 40 nm
Joerg wrote:
I use a regular wrench, note the length, calculate the required pull force at the end and then I use a suitcase scales that my sister gave me. A digital one with a hook where you normally lift a suitcase with to see if it is still under the required 50lbs. Under $10. .... really? How do you "mount" it all? Even if it could be done, isn't this like a poor-man's torque wrench and much more complicated at that? of 40 nm, I know only this is a lot and the reason I know this is every time I remove it, it is stuck like, very firmly! It is a lot. But I thought you Vikings are all supermen with lots of muscle, exclaiming a loud "uff da" and off the cassette comes :-) Sorry, wrong country. That's the Norwegian vikings. We on the other hand were clever merchants even then On my Shimano cassettes the end piece that tightens it up has teeth inside so it will make a loud ratchet sound at the end. I guess that was done so it won't come loose during a ride. If the outer sprocket would ever slip off and turn free while pedaling hard you could have a major crash. So it better not come off. Indeed, I figured it was something with the casette. The smallest sprockets (two or three?) are somewhat loose to begin with. Do you know what is actually making the sound, functionality aside? -- underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic - so far: 69 Blogomatic articles - |
#10
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cassette clockwise arrow 40 nm
On 3/6/2017 7:00 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Joerg wrote: I use a regular wrench, note the length, calculate the required pull force at the end and then I use a suitcase scales that my sister gave me. A digital one with a hook where you normally lift a suitcase with to see if it is still under the required 50lbs. Under $10. ... really? How do you "mount" it all? Even if it could be done, isn't this like a poor-man's torque wrench and much more complicated at that? of 40 nm, I know only this is a lot and the reason I know this is every time I remove it, it is stuck like, very firmly! It is a lot. But I thought you Vikings are all supermen with lots of muscle, exclaiming a loud "uff da" and off the cassette comes :-) Sorry, wrong country. That's the Norwegian vikings. We on the other hand were clever merchants even then On my Shimano cassettes the end piece that tightens it up has teeth inside so it will make a loud ratchet sound at the end. I guess that was done so it won't come loose during a ride. If the outer sprocket would ever slip off and turn free while pedaling hard you could have a major crash. So it better not come off. Indeed, I figured it was something with the casette. The smallest sprockets (two or three?) are somewhat loose to begin with. Do you know what is actually making the sound, functionality aside? Rattling high gear sprockets can indicate a missing spacer. On classic Seven cassettes there is a thin 1.0mm spacer between high gear and second highest, LH item he http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...st/csspacr.jpg (there are other possible issues, such as 11t sprocket on a pre-11t body and so on) -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
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