number of links in Shimano 1S chain

I always get the Shimano 1s CN-NX10 114L chain
for my single, 3, or 5 speed bikes.

Those 114 links are always too many. Today for
a single speed bike I removed 5 outer, and 5
inner links.

It is too late to count the teeth of the
chainring and sprocket, but the sprocket is
from the familiar Torpedo single speed rear hub
and the chainring is on a typical square axle
crank, perhaps a tiny bit smaller chainring
than usual if it isn't an optical illusion.

The distance from the crank to the rear wheel
axle is ~48.5 cm or ~19 inches.

The chain tension got very good but one could
get away with a looser chain, tho not a tighter.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573

Emanuel Berg wrote:

I always get the Shimano 1s CN-NX10 114L chain
for my single, 3, or 5 speed bikes.

Nexus chain.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573

On Thursday, June 1, 2017 at 6:47:50 PM UTC-7, Emanuel Berg wrote:
I always get the Shimano 1s CN-NX10 114L chain
for my single, 3, or 5 speed bikes.

Those 114 links are always too many. Today for
a single speed bike I removed 5 outer, and 5
inner links.

It is too late to count the teeth of the
chainring and sprocket, but the sprocket is
from the familiar Torpedo single speed rear hub
and the chainring is on a typical square axle
crank, perhaps a tiny bit smaller chainring
than usual if it isn't an optical illusion.

The distance from the crank to the rear wheel
axle is ~48.5 cm or ~19 inches.

The chain tension got very good but one could
get away with a looser chain, tho not a tighter.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573

Why would you make a single speed out of a frame that didn't have adjustable rear axle position? And if so what problem are you have with chain length?

Why would you make a single speed out of
a frame that didn't have adjustable rear
axle position?

Of course, they all have.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573

On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 1:38:13 PM UTC-7, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Why would you make a single speed out of
a frame that didn't have adjustable rear
axle position?

Of course, they all have.


All what have what? You seem to have a habit of being very easily misunderstood.

Of course, they all have.

All what have what?

All these bikes have the "adjustable rear axle
position".

You seem to have a habit of being very
easily misunderstood.

And the habit is easily misunderstood as
well...

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573

On Saturday, June 3, 2017 at 4:02:14 PM UTC-7, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Of course, they all have.

All what have what?

All these bikes have the "adjustable rear axle
position".

You seem to have a habit of being very
easily misunderstood.

And the habit is easily misunderstood as
well...

Most modern bicycles have a vertical drop-out that keeps the rear wheel aligned. It doesn't allow any adjustments as do a track drop-out or an old fashion long front facing drop-out with adjusters.

According to the Maraton manual, the chain
should move vertically 10-12 mm which is
difficult to achieve.

Getting the wheel straight isn't easy either
unless there is some method I'm unaware of.

I've experimenting with different ideas, e.g.
using two ring wrenches to pull at the same
time to minimize the wheel movement from
pulling the nuts.

Also I thought of locking the nuts almost but
not entirely, then use a soft hammer to perfect
alignment, then pull shut.

It seems there is always some barely-but-still
detectable imperfection visible from some point
of view or the other...

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573

On 6/5/2017 6:12 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
According to the Maraton manual, the chain
should move vertically 10-12 mm which is
difficult to achieve.

Getting the wheel straight isn't easy either
unless there is some method I'm unaware of.

I've experimenting with different ideas, e.g.
using two ring wrenches to pull at the same
time to minimize the wheel movement from
pulling the nuts.

Also I thought of locking the nuts almost but
not entirely, then use a soft hammer to perfect
alignment, then pull shut.

It seems there is always some barely-but-still
detectable imperfection visible from some point
of view or the other...

FWIW, here's what I've done: I pull the wheel back until the chain is
slightly tight, then I tighten the axle nuts slightly. I turn the
cranks until the chain is at its tightest position, since sometimes one
portion is a little more worn than others.

Next I loosen just the right nut and grasp the rear wheel at its
rearmost point. I pivot the wheel horizontally to adjust the chain
tension. When tension is about right I snug the right nut.

Then I loosen the left nut and pivot the wheel again until it's centered
between the chain stays, seat stays, etc.

If slight adjustments are needed, I repeat.

--
- Frank Krygowski

On 6/5/2017 5:12 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
According to the Maraton manual, the chain
should move vertically 10-12 mm which is
difficult to achieve.

Getting the wheel straight isn't easy either
unless there is some method I'm unaware of.

I've experimenting with different ideas, e.g.
using two ring wrenches to pull at the same
time to minimize the wheel movement from
pulling the nuts.

Also I thought of locking the nuts almost but
not entirely, then use a soft hammer to perfect
alignment, then pull shut.

It seems there is always some barely-but-still
detectable imperfection visible from some point
of view or the other...


Oil axle threads. Tighten one side roughly where you think
it ought to be. Center wheel and tighten the other side.
Evaluate chain slack:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/chainchk.html

You can easily correct by moving one side at a time, pushing
the rim to one side or the other as needed. End with both
nuts fully torqued.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971