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Old Sturmey in modern shell?
Does anyone know (to save me trying it) whether the inner unit from a
Sturmey-Archer AM hub, or even an original AW hub, will fit in the modern S-RF3 shell? The AM and AW are certainly interchangeable, but it would be nice to have the medium-gear innards in a lighter shell. I've already added an oil port. |
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#2
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Old Sturmey in modern shell?
In article ,
Zog The Undeniable wrote: Does anyone know (to save me trying it) whether the inner unit from a Sturmey-Archer AM hub, or even an original AW hub, will fit in the modern S-RF3 shell? The AM and AW are certainly interchangeable, So's an SA five speed. but it would be nice to have the medium-gear innards in a lighter shell. I've already added an oil port. I'd be surprised if you could swap an old SA assembly into the new hun shells, mainly because the new ones use a ball-locking clutch instead of the old system. |
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Old Sturmey in modern shell?
Tim McNamara wrote:
In article , Zog The Undeniable wrote: Does anyone know (to save me trying it) whether the inner unit from a Sturmey-Archer AM hub, or even an original AW hub, will fit in the modern S-RF3 shell? The AM and AW are certainly interchangeable, So's an SA five speed. but it would be nice to have the medium-gear innards in a lighter shell. I've already added an oil port. I'd be surprised if you could swap an old SA assembly into the new hun shells, mainly because the new ones use a ball-locking clutch instead of the old system. I've had both apart and the shells look pretty much identical inside. The main difference between the new NIG hubs and the old ones is that the new ones have three sets of pawls. The ticking of the overdriven pawls is different too - on an AW the low-gear pawls tick identically in normal and top, on an S-RF3 the ticking is much slower in top. The driver now has its own pawls and these are locked out by a slightly crude sheet metal shroud which rotates with the clutch (a much deeper one-piece affair) and covers them up when they're not meant to engage. An S-RF3 can still squirm its way out of top under very high torque, as Jobst is fond of explaining, but it can only slip into "normal", with no neutral position. It's not as minimalist a design as the old hubs, but it's more foolproof. The Taiwanese designers also made the ends of the planet pins, which the clutch engages, the same thickness as the rest. On the AW the protruding end is the thinnest part of the pin. The worst thing about the new hubs is the grease lubrication. Fine for a couple of years, then (unless you like tinkering) it's uneconomic to have someone strip, clean and rebuild a hub you can buy built into a wheel for 40 GBP. The old oil-lubricated ones didn't leak appreciably unless overfilled, and they get better with age as the threads are gunked up with road dirt. I imagine a bit of PTFE tape during assembly would eliminate the usual seepage around the RH ball ring threads - I must try it. |
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