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#21
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Hydraulic disc brake experience
On Tue, 09 Apr 2019 09:35:06 -0500, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/9/2019 9:25 AM, Ralph Barone wrote: Frank Krygowski wrote: On Tuesday, April 9, 2019 at 3:09:56 AM UTC-4, Chalo wrote: A cable has never leaked out of one of my cable-actuated brakes, disc or no. A cable has never fouled any of my breaking surfaces by touching them, nor damaged the pads beyond repair. These are a couple of things to bear in mind when you use oil instead of cable to apply the brake. +1 I think that I once had a brake cable "leak" out of the housing, resulting in a loss of braking capability. If it's British built his might help: http://www3.telus.net/bc_triumph_registry/smoke.htm Awesome. I could have done with some of that when I had a mini. -- davethedave |
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#22
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Hydraulic disc brake experience
On Tuesday, April 9, 2019 at 8:09:56 AM UTC+1, Chalo wrote:
A cable has never leaked out of one of my cable-actuated brakes, disc or no. A cable has never fouled any of my breaking surfaces by touching them, nor damaged the pads beyond repair. These are a couple of things to bear in mind when you use oil instead of cable to apply the brake. At the very least it is smart to consider a sealed-for-life system if you must have hydraulic liquid on on your bike. I specced one on my fave bike because I was fed-up with uncontrollably sudden stops from Shimano's hub brakes, instantaneous pad wear from Shimano's disc brakes, and the constant adjustments required by mechanical rim brakes. All I wanted was a progressive, strong enough, and service-free system, not too much to ask if you're waving a fistful of money. Bike vendors, importers and manufacturers, all except one, looked at me like I was crazy: didn't I know that a cyclist proves his worth by suffering? With Magura's sealed for life system, the HS11 and HS33, I got 622mm discs because the hydraulic callipers work on the rim of the wheel, not inefficiently near its centre. Avoiding the ****poor advice on this forum that only the strongest brakes would prove my manhood, I specified the lower pressure, much more progressive HS11*, and even removed the cross-fork stiffening back between the callipers for a bit of additional slack, and have been very happy with the resulting smoothly progressive braking for 10 years. Zero service in ten years, not even changing the brake blocks, which still have another 10K left in them, having already done 10K and change. I still have all the replacement parts (brake blocks, retubing kit, etc) that I ordered with the bike, and don't foresee using them either. * Back then the -33 had a smaller chamber than the -11, and thus more pressure. Today both are mechanically and hydraulically exactly the same, the only difference the last time I looked being that the -33 and "racing" derivatives are dressed up in sober black to look "professional" and bump up the price while the -11 offers colourful slipcovers, which someone will no doubt shortly be along to damn as "girly" and far too cheerful for "real cyclists". Andre Jute Hedonist |
#23
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Hydraulic disc brake experience
On Wednesday, April 10, 2019 at 11:12:20 AM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Wednesday, April 10, 2019 at 10:07:55 AM UTC-7, wrote: On Wednesday, April 10, 2019 at 12:35:39 AM UTC-7, Chalo wrote: My first set of modern IS conforming disc brakes (Hayes MX1) burned the pads all the way to their backings in less than 20 miles of central Seattle city riding. The fully metallic EBC replacement pads lasted for more than 10 years (though the bike was not my primary ride for the entirety of that time). I guess this is to say there may be some variation in wear rate. I was riding my CX bike off-road and burned a set of disk pads in perhaps 100 miles or less. I also burned a front disk into a grooved blackened thing. I replaced the steel plate with AL and was more careful and everything seems to work well. But then I am not riding anywhere near as hard as I was. Yesterday I did the first Moraga Ride since October! Door to door for my part is 37 miles and 3,300 feet of climbing. I was pretty damn slow and the Tierra Bella metric I'm riding is Saturday. I hope to be able to complete it if I ride carefully. The last time I rode it I made the mistake of riding the final 5 miles at 28 mph. That put me into almost a haze. I couldn't even find my car in the lot. FWIW, I have a Tierra Bella patch (remember patches?) from 1979 or '80 designed by Leigh High art teacher and cyclist Ken Schwab. I think Ken did that one. I use it as a coaster. That was a fun ride. I remember one year when they closed the course mid-ride because of a giant storm -- or if it wasn't officially closed, everyone bailed. Back in the day, you went of Hecker Pass, IIRC, but no longer. It looks like a series of loops now, which makes it easier for the organizer. -- Jay Beattie. The problem with the Century is that you get about 40 miles into the ride on the flats and then come to the base of a 10 mile hill that climbs a thousand feet. At the top is a state park and lunch. So no one does it after they've done it once. Then a 5 mile ride across the flats and past the IBM R&D center and another 20 miles through the hills and then down onto the flats and a ride with a tailwind back to the college. I always wanted to work at IBM R&D but you had to have a degree. I can see the value of a degree but I also know that most of the R&D doesn't require high end calculus and they were silly to limit themselves to people who especially these days have imaginations more attuned to Marvel Comics. I did not come up with ideas - I figured out how to turn them into reality. |
#24
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Hydraulic disc brake experience
On Wednesday, April 10, 2019 at 7:45:08 PM UTC-7, Radey Shouman wrote:
jbeattie writes: On Tuesday, April 9, 2019 at 11:01:18 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote: On Tuesday, April 9, 2019 at 10:05:07 AM UTC-4, jbeattie wrote: The hydraulic pads self-adjust, which is a nice feature -- and there were times when I forgot to dial-in the pad on my cable front brake and had some scary moments on the sled-runs on my commute route. That was my own fault. Since I've done only short rides, not any great distances on a disc brake bike (cable or hydraulic): How often do you have to "dial-in" your cable disc brakes? For me, after I ran out of lever travel and didn't stop. I let it get sloppy, and it went from bad to worse during a rainy ride down some very steep hills. I usually adjusted every month or less to keep the brakes firm. I don't know what is recommended, and that undoubtedly varies based on individual use, weather and pad type. You hear stories about DH riders blowing through pads in a day or two, although those are hydraulic pads that self adjust. I knew my BB7 pads were shot when I got that pinging sound of the return spring hitting the rotor. Ooops. That, BTW, is another issue with hydraulics. You have to police hydraulic pads because they will keep adjusting until you're braking with the aluminum carriers. When you adjust the pads manually on cable discs, at least you have a reminder to look at the pads -- whether you decide to look is up to you. Hydraulic pads are supposed to be replaced at .5mm, and I just measure them in place with a feeler gauge but you can take them out and do it with a micrometer. That is now an additional maintenance requirement and part of the care and feeding of discs. Car disk brake pads generally have a little metal tab that extends towards the disk to the wear limit of the pad. Its purpose is just to squeal painfully *before* the pad is actually worn through. I'm not sure of any reason this couldn't work for bicycles. Well, you can actually see the brake pad on a bike. |
#25
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Hydraulic disc brake experience
Chalo wrote:
:A cable has never leaked out of one of my cable-actuated brakes, disc or no. A cable has never fouled any of my breaking surfaces by touching them, nor damaged the pads beyond repair. :These are a couple of things to bear in mind when you use oil instead of cable to apply the brake. I've never gotten a puncture wound from a hyraulic brake hose, let alone one that required (very very minor) surgery. Can't say that aobut cable operated brake cables. -- sig 125 |
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