Air saddles versus other saddles

I found 'this link about distance saddles'
(http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50740) to be
informative. I just recently had my third air saddle flat in about six
years on my Coker. One flat every two years is not so bad and it's easy
to replace the tube but I have read about other distance alternatives.
Is the KH Fusion Freeride (without air conversion) considered better
than the homemade air saddle for long distance by many riders? Are
other distance riders using saddles that they consider to be superior
to air saddles?


--
harper

-Greg Harper

*jc is the only main man. there can be no other.*

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Don't use the search function. You have an excellent question.

I've been using my Wallis Road Relief saddle for a few years. It has an
air bladder, but is really really firm; a little too firm for my taste.
I don't like the true air saddles; they are too gooshy and soft.

So I like the Road Relief saddle, but I *think* I like the Fusion
Freeride on my muni better; I just haven't ridden it for 11 miles at
a time.

Having said that, I think it is still a matter of personal preference.

But, the thing that has helped my saddle soreness more than anything
else: the geared 36, in high gear. It lets you put more weight in your
legs as you muscle the uni around, and takes pressure off your crotch.
It makes road riding much more bearable, especially for long distances.
And, I rode some long distances on it not too long ago

corbin


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corbin wrote:
Don't use the search function. You have an excellent question.




Everyone has excellent questions. I never use the search "feature"
before starting a new thread/asking a question, because all my
questions are excellent too.

(not kidding)


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Joe "Hodgekins" wrote:
Oh... they don't kick bricks, do they?
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The Fusion Freeride is pretty comfortable, as unicycle saddles go.
Certainly in the same realm as a good air saddle. Considering how much
less of a problem it is to deal with, I wouldn't install a new air
saddle at this point.


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tholub
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I just recently switched from an air saddle to a non-air Wallis saddle.
I had gotten pretty used to my old air saddle and thought there might be
some switching challenges, but I'm definitely preferring the non-air for
some of the reasons Maestro8 highlights...easier to shift around your
sitting position. Plus I've saved major poundage versus my old one with
the GB stiffener plate.

With JC's help--alright, maybe he just did all the work--I also used a
KH Freeride cover and foam on top of a Gemcrest CF base to make a new
saddle for my GB4 29. We had to do a bit of foam manipulation to try
to get a relatively flat saddle on the curvy miyata-style base. But it
came out great, and I've done comparisons to my muni air saddle, and
much prefer the non-air.

Don't think I'm switching back, but if you're lacking a saddle right
now, you can definitely borrow one of the two that I have for as long
as you'd like. I' not riding muni right now, and my air coker saddle
is now sitting idle. LMK also if you want to try one of the non-air.
I think the seatpost on the 29er will go up far enough for you.


--
tomblackwood

Tailgate at your own risk...
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Simple is best. Don't need to over-think it. Like Jimmy Cagney used to
say: -"Know your lines, stand on your mark and say it like you mean it.
No strain".- In other words, just do it. Fusion freeride is currently
best imo, mostly due to the channel in the center and the flatter
profile. The seat base is identical to the older, banana curved,
thicker freeride saddle. only the foam is different.


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MuniAddict

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tomblackwood wrote:
I just recently switched from an air saddle to a non-air Wallis saddle.
I had gotten pretty used to my old air saddle and thought there might
be some switching challenges, but I'm definitely preferring the non-air
for some of the reasons Maestro8 highlights...easier to shift around
your sitting position. Plus I've saved major poundage versus my old one
with the GB stiffener plate.

With JC's help--alright, maybe he just did all the work--I also used a
KH Freeride cover and foam on top of a Gemcrest CF base to make a new
saddle for my GB4 29. We had to do a bit of foam manipulation to try to
get a relatively flat saddle on the curvy miyata-style base. But it came
out great, and I've done comparisons to my muni air saddle, and much
prefer the non-air.

Don't think I'm switching back, but if you're lacking a saddle right
now, you can definitely borrow one of the two that I have for as long
as you'd like. I' not riding muni right now, and my air coker saddle is
now sitting idle. LMK also if you want to try one of the non-air. I
think the seatpost on the 29er will go up far enough for you.




Just how heavy is this stiffener plate? I just bought a Miyata air
saddle with reeder handle and stiffener plate in hopes that the set-up
would be a bit lighter than the t7 with rails and Freeride set-up.


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Thanks for all of the informative replies. As I said, repairing an air
saddle leak is no big deal so I already did that part. Just buy a new
tube, take the saddle apart, stuff in the new goods, and wrestle that
noodle for an hour trying to re-assemble it so it's moderately straight
and comfy. I had to do that because I may ride Saturday and I know I'm
riding Sunday.

For the $54 I think I'll try one of the KH Fusion Freeride saddles. It
seems like a cheap upgrade for what may yield great rewards in terms of
comfort. Almost all of my riding these days is on the big boy and, if my
knees are going to hurt anyway, something else may as well be pampered
and spared.


--
harper

-Greg Harper

*jc is the only main man. there can be no other.*

"In general, I'd like everyone to just stop treating one another like
crap. I see it every day. It sucks." - SqueakyOnion
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harper wrote:
if my knees are going to hurt anyway, something else may as well be
pampered and spared.


I don't know the condition of your knees, or what size crank you are
currently using but switching to a shorter crank length may be easier
on your knees as you will be taking smaller pedal strokes. It's
obviously going to require more force on your knees while stopping but
a brake would certainly alleviate that.


--
Brian O.

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Brian O. wrote:
I don't know the condition of your knees, or what size crank you are
currently using but switching to a shorter crank length may be easier
on your knees as you will be taking smaller pedal strokes. It's
obviously going to require more force on your knees while stopping but
a brake would certainly alleviate that.



The condition of my knees is that they are approaching 56 years of
operation with close to 4 decades of basketball on them. Shorter cranks
mean less stroke but also less torque which means more required leg
force. I have long legs and have always used 150mm cranks on the Coker.
Reps hurt my knees as much as climbs and descents. Walking is more
difficult than riding because of the impact. They sound like a package
of ladyfingers on Independence Day when I stand up. I'm thinking about
machining a new pair.


--
harper

-Greg Harper

*jc is the only main man. there can be no other.*

"In general, I'd like everyone to just stop treating one another like
crap. I see it every day. It sucks." - SqueakyOnion
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