Trail-proof mounting of panniers and battery

On 2015-12-04 11:43, sms wrote:
On 12/4/2015 10:45 AM, Joerg wrote:
Folks,

Since everything will be caked in mud I took some quick photos. Not
great but things can be seen well enough.

Problem #1 was that panniers either ride up and down into the bungees
and thus the hooks lift off all the time or with clip systems things
rattle.

snip

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60P1xG32Feo


:-)

Maybe that's the reason. I disassembled radios and stuff as a kid and
built stuff.

It all survive another 4-1/4h of riding yesterday. But the front axle
looks seriously shot. Despite a grease re-pack and careful adjustment
the wheel keeps pulling to the left in the crown of the fork when I
brake hard. It has around 2500mi on it. Hopefully I get another 1000mi
or so out of it. I do not like wheel build-ups.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 2015-12-04 12:08, Clive George wrote:
On 04/12/2015 18:45, Joerg wrote:

The battery is mechanically buffered and won't move out of position. I
used chunks from a blown super-thick MTB tube for that. 0.160" or 4mm
wall thickness. The switch cuts power to the lights in case of a crash
or when parking for longer periods. Haven't affixed a crash release rope
yet though. The main reason for it is that dreaded green "Ready-LED"
that consumes about 10mA all the time for nothing. Not that great when
parking the bike for many days. I also provided a 4A fuse which is very
important with Li-Ion batteries. The charge port is under the saddle and
can also be used to siphon power for other stuff such as computers or
cell phones. This might require a regulator because it's about 8V. On my
wish list there is a "bush-proof" radio with MP3 for the more boring
prairie stretches where it won't bother anyone.


Very good.

Would it be worth putting one of those rubber toggle-switch covers over
the switch? I'd be wary of that getting caked in mud and wet.


I squished lube into its pivot area. Seems to hold up. Yesterday was the
most extreme mud ride I ever had because it had rained a lot the day
before. I became stuck several times because the rear wheel would not
turn anymore. Steeper hills had to be walked because I got no traction.
This brought my average speed down to 8mph over a 4-1/4h ride but it
sure was fun.


... A magnetic switch would get bonus points :-)


Good idea. I have mil-spec switches somewhere that are supposed to
survive world wars III and IV, just couldn't find them in time.

The high-tech alternative would be a remote key fob and RF receiver. But
I won't do that. Once we rented a Toyota Venza and for some reason the
RF link for the trunk latch did not work, had to pile the suitcases into
the rear seats.


How well sealed is the cable entry to the box?


Very. You can pour a gallon of water over it. Of course, I drilled a
weep hole into the bottom lid. It is a Cantex electrical junction box
without fitting mounts and it comes with seal. Very thick plastic.
Available at Home Depot for less than $10 but it's not on their web
site, got to go to the store.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 2015-12-04 14:30, Doug Landau wrote:
On Friday, December 4, 2015 at 10:45:23 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
Folks,

Since everything will be caked in mud I took some quick photos. Not
great but things can be seen well enough.

Problem #1 was that panniers either ride up and down into the bungees
and thus the hooks lift off all the time or with clip systems things rattle.

http://www.analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/Rack1.JPG

I pulled rubber from an old fairly thick road bike tube over the hooks
of Nashbar Daytrekker panniers. The blue Perspex panel pushes down on
these from above and provides some mechanical tension, holding them
firmly and rattle-free in place.

Farther below is a U-shaped piece I made from aircraft-grade aluminum.
This is what the Perspex panel pulls against. At the same time it
stiffens up the side supports which do not attach to the frame below, on
account of the full suspension structure of my mountain bike. This
substantially reduces the sway with a full pannier load. It is important
that nothing protrudes towards the inside of those side support tubes.
Just in case the tire rubs against it during a crash or something. As a
side benefit this resulted in two "secret stash locations" if needed.
Maybe I'll cram the spare tube in there some day.

Problem #2 was that larger batteries cannot be mounted solidly enough
for rough trails, certainly not in those wimpy canvas pouches that come
with them. So I built this

http://www.analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/Battbox1.JPG

and mounted it this way

http://www.analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/Battbox2.JPG

The battery is mechanically buffered and won't move out of position. I
used chunks from a blown super-thick MTB tube for that. 0.160" or 4mm
wall thickness. The switch cuts power to the lights in case of a crash
or when parking for longer periods. Haven't affixed a crash release rope
yet though. The main reason for it is that dreaded green "Ready-LED"
that consumes about 10mA all the time for nothing. Not that great when
parking the bike for many days. I also provided a 4A fuse which is very
important with Li-Ion batteries. The charge port is under the saddle and
can also be used to siphon power for other stuff such as computers or
cell phones. This might require a regulator because it's about 8V. On my
wish list there is a "bush-proof" radio with MP3 for the more boring
prairie stretches where it won't bother anyone.

So far it all held up well even on rough turf. The battery easily lasts
five hours with the ship fully lit at 8W. If not full the panniers
should be stuffed with bubble wrap or the like so the contents don't
slosh around.

Never leave any sharp protrusions. The bolt in the last picture is there
to take another little box of electronics for the rear light.

In case someone builts this, the usual disclaimer: You do this fully at
your own risk. I just wanted to show the group how I solved the problems
on my MTB.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Those are Jandd? And you tighten the cinch straps?


They are Nashbar Daytrekkers. Very sturdy stuff. They have strong
bungees for mounting them but as usual it never really fits the rack at
hand, neither on my MTB nor the road bike (I got the same panniers on
that). Bungee plus hooks isn't reliable for an MTB anyhow if you ride
rough trails. Eventually it'll fly off.

The straps on the side just hold down the lids but there are also
secondary inner lids so that water has a hard time finding ingress. I
don't think these panniers are 100% watertight but good enough. I pack
sensitive stuff such as food, tools and the cell phone in ziplock bags.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

SHOCK CORDS ? surprised the cords haven't thrown yo off from wheel tangle.

basic clips using bolt bendable aluminum ....see aluminum straps types in
MacMaster Carr....one strap either side with 2 bolts each....will hold until servicing using nylocks n locktite

prob take the straps down to the machine shop n havum stamp out the correct curves....shrt if course....requires an engineering staff

if there are sufficient class for the load itself and to collapse the holding geometry in on itself...prob a tech term for that holding

as in doahn leave an open side unclasped.

buy a new wheel ...deore from universal cycles.

On Saturday, December 5, 2015 at 11:58:48 AM UTC-5, wrote:
SHOCK CORDS ? surprised the cords haven't thrown yo off from wheel tangle.

basic clips using bolt bendable aluminum ....see aluminum straps types in
MacMaster Carr....one strap either side with 2 bolts each....will hold until servicing using nylocks n locktite

prob take the straps down to the machine shop n havum stamp out the correct curves....shrt if course....requires an engineering staff

if there are sufficient class for the load itself and to collapse the holding geometry in on itself...prob a tech term for that holding

as in doahn leave an open side unclasped.

buy a new wheel ...deore from universal cycles.

BUY 3 N ROTATE


https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...rder=price_asc


what happened to Krieger ? gassed ?

On 2015-12-05 09:18, wrote:
On Saturday, December 5, 2015 at 11:58:48 AM UTC-5,
wrote:
SHOCK CORDS ? surprised the cords haven't thrown yo off from wheel
tangle.


No, this is an MTB, not a vintage aircraft.


basic clips using bolt bendable aluminum ....see aluminum straps
types in MacMaster Carr....one strap either side with 2 bolts
each....will hold until servicing using nylocks n locktite

prob take the straps down to the machine shop n havum stamp out the
correct curves....shrt if course....requires an engineering staff

if there are sufficient class for the load itself and to collapse
the holding geometry in on itself...prob a tech term for that
holding

as in doahn leave an open side unclasped.


I am happy with the way the panniers are mounted now. If it works don't
try fix it.


buy a new wheel ...deore from universal cycles.


I am not so enthused about Deore stuff anymore. The next wheel should
have mil-spec or at least grade sealed bearings and with an ironclad
long warranty. None of this cone bearing junk no more.


BUY 3 N ROTATE


https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...rder=price_asc


Thanks. They got some 29" wheels.


what happened to Krieger ? gassed ?


I don't know who Krieger is.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Kreiger does Base Jumping

On 2015-12-05 13:00, wrote:
Kreiger does Base Jumping


That's too scary for me. I only jumped out of aircraft and pulled latest
at 3000ft above ground.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On Saturday, December 5, 2015 at 8:26:41 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2015-12-04 14:30, Doug Landau wrote:
On Friday, December 4, 2015 at 10:45:23 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
Folks,

Since everything will be caked in mud I took some quick photos. Not
great but things can be seen well enough.

Problem #1 was that panniers either ride up and down into the bungees
and thus the hooks lift off all the time or with clip systems things rattle.

http://www.analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/Rack1.JPG

I pulled rubber from an old fairly thick road bike tube over the hooks
of Nashbar Daytrekker panniers. The blue Perspex panel pushes down on
these from above and provides some mechanical tension, holding them
firmly and rattle-free in place.

Farther below is a U-shaped piece I made from aircraft-grade aluminum.
This is what the Perspex panel pulls against. At the same time it
stiffens up the side supports which do not attach to the frame below, on
account of the full suspension structure of my mountain bike. This
substantially reduces the sway with a full pannier load. It is important
that nothing protrudes towards the inside of those side support tubes.
Just in case the tire rubs against it during a crash or something. As a
side benefit this resulted in two "secret stash locations" if needed.
Maybe I'll cram the spare tube in there some day.

Problem #2 was that larger batteries cannot be mounted solidly enough
for rough trails, certainly not in those wimpy canvas pouches that come
with them. So I built this

http://www.analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/Battbox1.JPG

and mounted it this way

http://www.analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/Battbox2.JPG

The battery is mechanically buffered and won't move out of position. I
used chunks from a blown super-thick MTB tube for that. 0.160" or 4mm
wall thickness. The switch cuts power to the lights in case of a crash
or when parking for longer periods. Haven't affixed a crash release rope
yet though. The main reason for it is that dreaded green "Ready-LED"
that consumes about 10mA all the time for nothing. Not that great when
parking the bike for many days. I also provided a 4A fuse which is very
important with Li-Ion batteries. The charge port is under the saddle and
can also be used to siphon power for other stuff such as computers or
cell phones. This might require a regulator because it's about 8V. On my
wish list there is a "bush-proof" radio with MP3 for the more boring
prairie stretches where it won't bother anyone.

So far it all held up well even on rough turf. The battery easily lasts
five hours with the ship fully lit at 8W. If not full the panniers
should be stuffed with bubble wrap or the like so the contents don't
slosh around.

Never leave any sharp protrusions. The bolt in the last picture is there
to take another little box of electronics for the rear light.

In case someone builts this, the usual disclaimer: You do this fully at
your own risk. I just wanted to show the group how I solved the problems
on my MTB.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Those are Jandd? And you tighten the cinch straps?


They are Nashbar Daytrekkers. Very sturdy stuff. They have strong
bungees for mounting them but as usual it never really fits the rack at
hand, neither on my MTB nor the road bike (I got the same panniers on
that). Bungee plus hooks isn't reliable for an MTB anyhow if you ride
rough trails. Eventually it'll fly off.

The straps on the side just hold down the lids but there are also
secondary inner lids so that water has a hard time finding ingress. I
don't think these panniers are 100% watertight but good enough. I pack
sensitive stuff such as food, tools and the cell phone in ziplock bags.

My eyes must be going bad. Are the hooks by which it they hang from the rack visible in the foto? Are those leather carrying handles at the bottom of the foto, going parallel to the rack members, or are they 2" long (wide?) metal hooks?

On Saturday, December 5, 2015 at 5:26:26 PM UTC-5, Joerg wrote:
On 2015-12-05 13:00, wrote:
Kreiger does Base Jumping


That's too scary for me. I only jumped out of aircraft and pulled latest
at 3000ft above ground.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

awwww J , you would be AAA at Base Jumping...