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Does anyone know PM-PM-F/R203 adapters



 
 
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  #21  
Old November 14th 17, 01:17 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
John B.[_3_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,556
Default Does anyone know PM-PM-F/R203 adapters

On Mon, 13 Nov 2017 15:21:33 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-11-13 15:07, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 10:17:14 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-11-12 18:13, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 12 Nov 2017 07:38:50 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-11-11 18:13, John B. wrote:
On Sat, 11 Nov 2017 10:39:42 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-11-11 07:51, jbeattie wrote:


[...]

... Avid uses a higher torque spec. 5nm should be plenty
to keep your stem and headset tight, but probably not in
Cameron Park.


It does but only if I smear some grit-laden toothpaste on
the fork tube before sliding on the stem. Not the paste for
electric brushing but the regular paste. What I am saying
is that 5nm feels like it's about to strip the aluminum
threads out.

I think I'd buy a torque meter. And use it :-)


Trying to be a minimalist I have a makeshift one that was
ridiculed here but when compared to pro gear is more accurate
than anything from a hardware sto A digital suitcase scale.
I can torque a screw to precisely 44 in-lbs. Not 42 or 46 but
exactly 44. Try that with one of those ratchet gizmos.


Yup, you can use a scale and a carefully measured length wrench
but it is hardly necessary as torque limits always seem to be
quite liberal. Shimano specifies 2 - 4 Nm (18 - 36 "lbs) for
brake disc attaching bolts. No need to get right down to the nth
degree.


I know. Just mentioned it because there are people here who
seriously think the suitcase scale method is inaccurate.


No, it's just dopey -- it's like using a nail and a hammer to remove
a chain rivet . . . oh wait. Never mind.


Both methods work fine. Until I got a digital scale as a present I used
a butcher "hook scale" which was just fine. As for the hammer and nail
that is how I opened scores of chains when I had used them up as a
university student. When all you have is a single room of 150sqft or
less and your monthly budget is $300 including rent, utilities, food,
books, beer and all you learn minimalist strategies quickly.


Well, unless your butcher's scale was carefully calibrated then you
really had no idea of the torque you were actually applying and a
chain tool costs as little as $4.83 (2017 dollars)....

Since about two years I am the proud owner of a chain breaker because it
was part of a PricePoint bike tool kit. I wish they had thrown in a T-25
driver instead because that can't easily be kludged. Do I get my chains
open any faster? Nope.

BTW you also need some rock or a sturdy surface and a steel nut, any old
nut, to lay the chain link onto so the pin flies into that. For that
purpose I used a chunk of railroad flat-bottom rail as an anvil which I
still have.

--
Cheers,

John B.

Ads
  #22  
Old November 14th 17, 01:22 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,621
Default Does anyone know PM-PM-F/R203 adapters

On 2017-11-13 16:17, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 13 Nov 2017 15:21:33 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-11-13 15:07, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 10:17:14 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-11-12 18:13, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 12 Nov 2017 07:38:50 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-11-11 18:13, John B. wrote:
On Sat, 11 Nov 2017 10:39:42 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-11-11 07:51, jbeattie wrote:


[...]

... Avid uses a higher torque spec. 5nm should be plenty
to keep your stem and headset tight, but probably not in
Cameron Park.


It does but only if I smear some grit-laden toothpaste on
the fork tube before sliding on the stem. Not the paste for
electric brushing but the regular paste. What I am saying
is that 5nm feels like it's about to strip the aluminum
threads out.

I think I'd buy a torque meter. And use it :-)


Trying to be a minimalist I have a makeshift one that was
ridiculed here but when compared to pro gear is more accurate
than anything from a hardware sto A digital suitcase scale.
I can torque a screw to precisely 44 in-lbs. Not 42 or 46 but
exactly 44. Try that with one of those ratchet gizmos.


Yup, you can use a scale and a carefully measured length wrench
but it is hardly necessary as torque limits always seem to be
quite liberal. Shimano specifies 2 - 4 Nm (18 - 36 "lbs) for
brake disc attaching bolts. No need to get right down to the nth
degree.


I know. Just mentioned it because there are people here who
seriously think the suitcase scale method is inaccurate.

No, it's just dopey -- it's like using a nail and a hammer to remove
a chain rivet . . . oh wait. Never mind.


Both methods work fine. Until I got a digital scale as a present I used
a butcher "hook scale" which was just fine. As for the hammer and nail
that is how I opened scores of chains when I had used them up as a
university student. When all you have is a single room of 150sqft or
less and your monthly budget is $300 including rent, utilities, food,
books, beer and all you learn minimalist strategies quickly.


Well, unless your butcher's scale was carefully calibrated then you
really had no idea of the torque you were actually applying and a
chain tool costs as little as $4.83 (2017 dollars)....


Butcher scales are way more accurate than the usual ratchet-style torque
wrenches.

[...]

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
  #23  
Old November 14th 17, 01:31 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,621
Default Does anyone know PM-PM-F/R203 adapters

On 2017-11-13 16:06, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 13 Nov 2017 10:17:12 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-11-12 18:13, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 12 Nov 2017 07:38:50 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-11-11 18:13, John B. wrote:
On Sat, 11 Nov 2017 10:39:42 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-11-11 07:51, jbeattie wrote:


[...]

... Avid uses a
higher torque spec. 5nm should be plenty to keep your stem and
headset tight, but probably not in Cameron Park.


It does but only if I smear some grit-laden toothpaste on the fork tube
before sliding on the stem. Not the paste for electric brushing but the
regular paste. What I am saying is that 5nm feels like it's about to
strip the aluminum threads out.

I think I'd buy a torque meter. And use it :-)


Trying to be a minimalist I have a makeshift one that was ridiculed here
but when compared to pro gear is more accurate than anything from a
hardware sto A digital suitcase scale. I can torque a screw to
precisely 44 in-lbs. Not 42 or 46 but exactly 44. Try that with one of
those ratchet gizmos.


Yup, you can use a scale and a carefully measured length wrench but it
is hardly necessary as torque limits always seem to be quite liberal.
Shimano specifies 2 - 4 Nm (18 - 36 "lbs) for brake disc attaching
bolts. No need to get right down to the nth degree.


I know. Just mentioned it because there are people here who seriously
think the suitcase scale method is inaccurate.

[...]


Actually a weight would be the most accurate. At least when I worked
in a shop that also certified torque wrenches they were tested with a
dead weight tester


Sure, that's how you can verify that things such as a suitcase scale is
still accurate. Mine is, very. Whenever I arrived at the airport for a
long trip and heaved my suitcase onto the check-in counter scale it
clocked in exactly at what my luggage scale said it would.


Another idea might be to see what the real racing boys are using for
stems and use the same. I doubt that a guy racing for a $750,000 first
prize (The winner of the Munga will take home $750,000, followed by
$100,000 for second, and $50,000 for third place ) plans on having
many problems with the stem on his bike.


I wasn't planning on spending $20k+ on a mountain bike.

I doubt that the stem on a racing MTB bike costs much different then
the stem on a cheap bike.


They ride with weight weenie parts, a lot more expensive than regular.
They also ride one race and then the whole bike gets fully serviced. I
ride thousands of miles without having a fully sponsored support team.


But aren't you the one that is always talking about safety and
isolated instances where you need a rock to be safe? And now you are
willing to forgo quality steering for just some cheap old crap bike?



That bike is not a cheap one and the stem is name brand (Oval Concepts).


Ooooh. But Oval are way down at the bottom, of the pile. I see them
offered for sale as cheap as $15 while a proper Ritchey is $130 (in
metal, more in Carbon).



Quote "I doubt that the stem on a racing MTB bike costs much different
then the stem on a cheap bike". These were you very own words.

There are people who always say that if a bike didn't cost at least $10k
it's junk. I have a different philosophy. If a piece of technical
equipment is priced somewhere in a reasonable mid-range I expect it to
last. Just like the performance we expect (and get) from our cars which
are more towards the lower end of the price spectrum. That is not asking
too much.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
  #24  
Old November 14th 17, 01:40 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
AMuzi
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 9,030
Default Does anyone know PM-PM-F/R203 adapters

On 11/13/2017 5:39 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-11-13 15:18, AMuzi wrote:
On 11/13/2017 5:07 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 10:17:14 AM UTC-8, Joerg
wrote:
On 2017-11-12 18:13, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 12 Nov 2017 07:38:50 -0800, Joerg

wrote:

On 2017-11-11 18:13, John B. wrote:
On Sat, 11 Nov 2017 10:39:42 -0800, Joerg

wrote:

On 2017-11-11 07:51, jbeattie wrote:


[...]

...
Avid uses a
higher torque spec. 5nm should be plenty to keep
your stem and
headset tight, but probably not in Cameron Park.


It does but only if I smear some grit-laden
toothpaste on the
fork tube
before sliding on the stem. Not the paste for
electric brushing
but the
regular paste. What I am saying is that 5nm feels
like it's about to
strip the aluminum threads out.

I think I'd buy a torque meter. And use it :-)


Trying to be a minimalist I have a makeshift one that
was ridiculed
here
but when compared to pro gear is more accurate than
anything from a
hardware sto A digital suitcase scale. I can torque
a screw to
precisely 44 in-lbs. Not 42 or 46 but exactly 44. Try
that with one of
those ratchet gizmos.


Yup, you can use a scale and a carefully measured
length wrench but it
is hardly necessary as torque limits always seem to be
quite liberal.
Shimano specifies 2 - 4 Nm (18 - 36 "lbs) for brake
disc attaching
bolts. No need to get right down to the nth degree.


I know. Just mentioned it because there are people here
who seriously
think the suitcase scale method is inaccurate.

No, it's just dopey -- it's like using a nail and a
hammer to remove a
chain rivet . . . oh wait. Never mind.

-- Jay Beattie.


eh what do we know? Never broke a front axle. Ever. You?


My dad topped that. He broke a supposedly sturdy steel frame
in half on a fast ride. Ok, the area had just been heavily
bombed during WW-II so the ride wasn't exactly smooth.

So Andrew, are the axles in the solid-version Shimano
HB-TX500 hubs sturdy in your experience? Then I could buy
one and pilfer the axle. In contrast to the old MTB this one
has full suspension (the old one has none at all). That
muffles the blows.


Those links were just at the top of an ebay search. If you
have an LBS nearby, start there.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971


  #25  
Old November 14th 17, 01:56 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
JBeattie
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,767
Default Does anyone know PM-PM-F/R203 adapters

On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 3:18:45 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 11/13/2017 5:07 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 10:17:14 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-11-12 18:13, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 12 Nov 2017 07:38:50 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-11-11 18:13, John B. wrote:
On Sat, 11 Nov 2017 10:39:42 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-11-11 07:51, jbeattie wrote:


[...]

... Avid uses a
higher torque spec. 5nm should be plenty to keep your stem and
headset tight, but probably not in Cameron Park.


It does but only if I smear some grit-laden toothpaste on the fork tube
before sliding on the stem. Not the paste for electric brushing but the
regular paste. What I am saying is that 5nm feels like it's about to
strip the aluminum threads out.

I think I'd buy a torque meter. And use it :-)


Trying to be a minimalist I have a makeshift one that was ridiculed here
but when compared to pro gear is more accurate than anything from a
hardware sto A digital suitcase scale. I can torque a screw to
precisely 44 in-lbs. Not 42 or 46 but exactly 44. Try that with one of
those ratchet gizmos.


Yup, you can use a scale and a carefully measured length wrench but it
is hardly necessary as torque limits always seem to be quite liberal.
Shimano specifies 2 - 4 Nm (18 - 36 "lbs) for brake disc attaching
bolts. No need to get right down to the nth degree.


I know. Just mentioned it because there are people here who seriously
think the suitcase scale method is inaccurate.


No, it's just dopey -- it's like using a nail and a hammer to remove a chain rivet . . . oh wait. Never mind.

-- Jay Beattie.


eh what do we know? Never broke a front axle. Ever. You?


Yes, but only because it melted while going 140mph down a volcano in 125 degree heat here in Portland. My tire also caught fire. The guy in front of me lost his brake and couldn't stop. It was lucky he had his drag-chute. http://www.gagnesports.com/wp-conten...chute-bike.jpg Otherwise, he would have crashed.

I ALWAYS ride with a drag-chute! It's hooked up to a release mechanism in my rear pannier -- in the pocket next to the heart-lung machine. I never take chances, and that's why I won't ride on the road . . . ever. It's too dangerous.

-- Jay Beattie.
  #26  
Old November 14th 17, 02:01 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,621
Default Does anyone know PM-PM-F/R203 adapters

On 2017-11-13 16:40, AMuzi wrote:
On 11/13/2017 5:39 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-11-13 15:18, AMuzi wrote:
On 11/13/2017 5:07 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 10:17:14 AM UTC-8, Joerg
wrote:
On 2017-11-12 18:13, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 12 Nov 2017 07:38:50 -0800, Joerg

wrote:

On 2017-11-11 18:13, John B. wrote:
On Sat, 11 Nov 2017 10:39:42 -0800, Joerg

wrote:

On 2017-11-11 07:51, jbeattie wrote:


[...]

...
Avid uses a
higher torque spec. 5nm should be plenty to keep
your stem and
headset tight, but probably not in Cameron Park.


It does but only if I smear some grit-laden
toothpaste on the
fork tube
before sliding on the stem. Not the paste for
electric brushing
but the
regular paste. What I am saying is that 5nm feels
like it's about to
strip the aluminum threads out.

I think I'd buy a torque meter. And use it :-)


Trying to be a minimalist I have a makeshift one that
was ridiculed
here
but when compared to pro gear is more accurate than
anything from a
hardware sto A digital suitcase scale. I can torque
a screw to
precisely 44 in-lbs. Not 42 or 46 but exactly 44. Try
that with one of
those ratchet gizmos.


Yup, you can use a scale and a carefully measured
length wrench but it
is hardly necessary as torque limits always seem to be
quite liberal.
Shimano specifies 2 - 4 Nm (18 - 36 "lbs) for brake
disc attaching
bolts. No need to get right down to the nth degree.


I know. Just mentioned it because there are people here
who seriously
think the suitcase scale method is inaccurate.

No, it's just dopey -- it's like using a nail and a
hammer to remove a
chain rivet . . . oh wait. Never mind.

-- Jay Beattie.


eh what do we know? Never broke a front axle. Ever. You?


My dad topped that. He broke a supposedly sturdy steel frame
in half on a fast ride. Ok, the area had just been heavily
bombed during WW-II so the ride wasn't exactly smooth.

So Andrew, are the axles in the solid-version Shimano
HB-TX500 hubs sturdy in your experience? Then I could buy
one and pilfer the axle. In contrast to the old MTB this one
has full suspension (the old one has none at all). That
muffles the blows.


Those links were just at the top of an ebay search.



I am new to Ebay and maybe I am doing something wrong but I can't see
any CroMo 9x1 axles or hubs with CroMo axles.


... If you have an LBS nearby, start there.


Yeah, I hope Rufus has one back in his shop but it'll be a while until I
get there. If he doesn't have any at least I can pet his Irish
Wolfshound. And 100 yards down the road is a new brewpub.

http://www.solidgroundbrewing.com/

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
  #27  
Old November 14th 17, 02:33 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
JBeattie
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,767
Default Does anyone know PM-PM-F/R203 adapters

On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 3:21:35 PM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-11-13 15:07, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 10:17:14 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-11-12 18:13, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 12 Nov 2017 07:38:50 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-11-11 18:13, John B. wrote:
On Sat, 11 Nov 2017 10:39:42 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-11-11 07:51, jbeattie wrote:


[...]

... Avid uses a higher torque spec. 5nm should be plenty
to keep your stem and headset tight, but probably not in
Cameron Park.


It does but only if I smear some grit-laden toothpaste on
the fork tube before sliding on the stem. Not the paste for
electric brushing but the regular paste. What I am saying
is that 5nm feels like it's about to strip the aluminum
threads out.

I think I'd buy a torque meter. And use it :-)


Trying to be a minimalist I have a makeshift one that was
ridiculed here but when compared to pro gear is more accurate
than anything from a hardware sto A digital suitcase scale.
I can torque a screw to precisely 44 in-lbs. Not 42 or 46 but
exactly 44. Try that with one of those ratchet gizmos.


Yup, you can use a scale and a carefully measured length wrench
but it is hardly necessary as torque limits always seem to be
quite liberal. Shimano specifies 2 - 4 Nm (18 - 36 "lbs) for
brake disc attaching bolts. No need to get right down to the nth
degree.


I know. Just mentioned it because there are people here who
seriously think the suitcase scale method is inaccurate.


No, it's just dopey -- it's like using a nail and a hammer to remove
a chain rivet . . . oh wait. Never mind.


Both methods work fine. Until I got a digital scale as a present I used
a butcher "hook scale" which was just fine. As for the hammer and nail
that is how I opened scores of chains when I had used them up as a
university student. When all you have is a single room of 150sqft or
less and your monthly budget is $300 including rent, utilities, food,
books, beer and all you learn minimalist strategies quickly.


Minimalist would be to skip the beer and buy a $3 tool.

I bought a Cyclo Rivoli when I was 12 years old. It was maybe $3 (probably less). https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8222/...25e6f46e_z.jpg It was part of my extensive tool kit. https://tse2.mm.bing.net/th?id=OIP.1...=0&w=240&h=160

I went to college with tackle box of tools, a Silca floor pump and a bunch of sew-ups. No dorms -- just a room in a ****-hole house with three other guys. I had a PX10 and no car.

Since about two years I am the proud owner of a chain breaker because it
was part of a PricePoint bike tool kit. I wish they had thrown in a T-25
driver instead because that can't easily be kludged. Do I get my chains
open any faster? Nope.


Well, I hope you're not opening your chains with a tool considering they probably come with a master-link. You do have to shorten them, and I'll race you any day of the week shortening a chain -- you and your nail and hammer, and me and my chain tool. I'll have the chain shortened before you strike your first blow.

BTW you also need some rock or a sturdy surface and a steel nut, any old
nut, to lay the chain link onto so the pin flies into that. For that
purpose I used a chunk of railroad flat-bottom rail as an anvil which I
still have.


Maybe you do, but for the last 45+ years, I've just used a tool.

-- Jay Beattie.
  #28  
Old November 14th 17, 02:39 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
John B.[_3_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,556
Default Does anyone know PM-PM-F/R203 adapters

On Mon, 13 Nov 2017 16:22:37 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-11-13 16:17, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 13 Nov 2017 15:21:33 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-11-13 15:07, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 10:17:14 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-11-12 18:13, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 12 Nov 2017 07:38:50 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-11-11 18:13, John B. wrote:
On Sat, 11 Nov 2017 10:39:42 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-11-11 07:51, jbeattie wrote:


[...]

... Avid uses a higher torque spec. 5nm should be plenty
to keep your stem and headset tight, but probably not in
Cameron Park.


It does but only if I smear some grit-laden toothpaste on
the fork tube before sliding on the stem. Not the paste for
electric brushing but the regular paste. What I am saying
is that 5nm feels like it's about to strip the aluminum
threads out.

I think I'd buy a torque meter. And use it :-)


Trying to be a minimalist I have a makeshift one that was
ridiculed here but when compared to pro gear is more accurate
than anything from a hardware sto A digital suitcase scale.
I can torque a screw to precisely 44 in-lbs. Not 42 or 46 but
exactly 44. Try that with one of those ratchet gizmos.


Yup, you can use a scale and a carefully measured length wrench
but it is hardly necessary as torque limits always seem to be
quite liberal. Shimano specifies 2 - 4 Nm (18 - 36 "lbs) for
brake disc attaching bolts. No need to get right down to the nth
degree.


I know. Just mentioned it because there are people here who
seriously think the suitcase scale method is inaccurate.

No, it's just dopey -- it's like using a nail and a hammer to remove
a chain rivet . . . oh wait. Never mind.


Both methods work fine. Until I got a digital scale as a present I used
a butcher "hook scale" which was just fine. As for the hammer and nail
that is how I opened scores of chains when I had used them up as a
university student. When all you have is a single room of 150sqft or
less and your monthly budget is $300 including rent, utilities, food,
books, beer and all you learn minimalist strategies quickly.


Well, unless your butcher's scale was carefully calibrated then you
really had no idea of the torque you were actually applying and a
chain tool costs as little as $4.83 (2017 dollars)....


Butcher scales are way more accurate than the usual ratchet-style torque
wrenches.

[...]


I'm sure that a spring scale can be calibrated and read accurately but
I can also say that when certifying a gas pipe line either for a
certifying agency or an insurance company nothing but a dead weight
scale is allowed.
--
Cheers,

John B.

  #29  
Old November 14th 17, 03:30 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Ralph Barone[_4_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 100
Default Does anyone know PM-PM-F/R203 adapters

jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 3:18:45 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 11/13/2017 5:07 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 10:17:14 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-11-12 18:13, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 12 Nov 2017 07:38:50 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-11-11 18:13, John B. wrote:
On Sat, 11 Nov 2017 10:39:42 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-11-11 07:51, jbeattie wrote:


[...]

... Avid uses a
higher torque spec. 5nm should be plenty to keep your stem and
headset tight, but probably not in Cameron Park.


It does but only if I smear some grit-laden toothpaste on the fork tube
before sliding on the stem. Not the paste for electric brushing but the
regular paste. What I am saying is that 5nm feels like it's about to
strip the aluminum threads out.

I think I'd buy a torque meter. And use it :-)


Trying to be a minimalist I have a makeshift one that was ridiculed here
but when compared to pro gear is more accurate than anything from a
hardware sto A digital suitcase scale. I can torque a screw to
precisely 44 in-lbs. Not 42 or 46 but exactly 44. Try that with one of
those ratchet gizmos.


Yup, you can use a scale and a carefully measured length wrench but it
is hardly necessary as torque limits always seem to be quite liberal.
Shimano specifies 2 - 4 Nm (18 - 36 "lbs) for brake disc attaching
bolts. No need to get right down to the nth degree.


I know. Just mentioned it because there are people here who seriously
think the suitcase scale method is inaccurate.

No, it's just dopey -- it's like using a nail and a hammer to remove a
chain rivet . . . oh wait. Never mind.

-- Jay Beattie.


eh what do we know? Never broke a front axle. Ever. You?


Yes, but only because it melted while going 140mph down a volcano in 125
degree heat here in Portland. My tire also caught fire. The guy in front
of me lost his brake and couldn't stop. It was lucky he had his
drag-chute. http://www.gagnesports.com/wp-conten...chute-bike.jpg
Otherwise, he would have crashed.

I ALWAYS ride with a drag-chute! It's hooked up to a release mechanism in
my rear pannier -- in the pocket next to the heart-lung machine. I never
take chances, and that's why I won't ride on the road . . . ever. It's too dangerous.

-- Jay Beattie.


I call bull****. It never gets up to 125 in Portland.

  #30  
Old November 14th 17, 03:49 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_4_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,394
Default Does anyone know PM-PM-F/R203 adapters

On 11/13/2017 7:31 PM, Joerg wrote:


There are people who always say that if a bike didn't cost at least $10k
it's junk. I have a different philosophy. If a piece of technical
equipment is priced somewhere in a reasonable mid-range I expect it to
last. Just like the performance we expect (and get) from our cars which
are more towards the lower end of the price spectrum. That is not asking
too much.


I agree about expecting things to last. And I've done pretty well with
bikes. But just yesterday, I was saying to one of my good riding friends
that I'm disappointed in my Cannondale touring bike. Corrosion has
bubbled some of the paint. Maybe this winter I'll pay for a respray or
for powder coat. Damn thing is only 31 years old.

The 1972 Raleigh is still going strong, but of course it's not all
original. The old custom tandem is doing well too, except for the
terribly designed front fork that broke after only 29 years. I really am
****ed about that. The folding bike is perfect, but it's only 11 years
old, and it doesn't get all that much use.

Regarding cars - well, I can't even remember how many we've used up
since the 1970s. It's a lot. I managed to keep one going until it was 26
years old because I liked it so well, but that became a constant repair
project.

--
- Frank Krygowski
 




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