A warning on pipe-cutters

Damn I had the same thing happen to me, I thought the kh tolerances were
a bit goofy since I had an 07 post in the new long neck. The seat post
now has rings all around it, bare alu from scratching or something. I'll
be using a hacksaw from now on.


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GizmoDuck;1103524 wrote:
For the record, I did file the post after using the pipe cutter. Quite
a lot of filing in fact, but obviously not enough.

The pipe cutter causes the bottom to flare outwards due to the
pressure from the pipe cutter roller. So it means you can get it into
the frame easily enough, but when you try to pull it out, it's like a
rachet- it cuts into the seatube and stops you from pulling up.

It's almost welded itself into the frame now. I'm going to take it to
the bike shop to use a vice and a blowtorch.



Ouch! I never thought about the possibility of the seatpost getting
stuck because of using a pipe cutter to cut it.

I have always used a pipe cutter. Gives an even cut. The one thing I
do when using a pipe cutter is to make sure that the roller is on the
side that I want to keep. That way most of the mushrooming happens on
the side of the pipe that I'm going to throw away. I still need to file
some, just not as much.

Good warning though. I'll have to rethink my preference for using a
pipe cutter rather than a hack saw.


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john_childs;1103651 wrote:
Ouch! I never thought about the possibility of the seatpost getting
stuck because of using a pipe cutter to cut it.

I have always used a pipe cutter. Gives an even cut. The one thing I
do when using a pipe cutter is to make sure that the roller is on the
side that I want to keep. That way most of the mushrooming happens on
the side of the pipe that I'm going to throw away. I still need to file
some, just not as much.

Good warning though. I'll have to rethink my preference for using a
pipe cutter rather than a hack saw.



I'm not sure what you mean. The pipe cutter was an industrial one with
rollers on both sides.

We spent an hour wrestling with the frame, and heating it up with a
paint stripper. We moved it about 2cm, and then gave up.

I'm getting another KH frame. The alternative was to take it to an
engineering workshop to see if they can drill out the seatpost, but the
problem is that I don't have the time to faff around with that, and
also, by the time they charge for labour etc, it probably would just be
easier to buy a new one.

I've had a bad day

Ken

p/s if anyone doubts the strength of the KH frame, I can vouch for the
welds. We gripped the top of the seatpost in a vice, and basically
bashed the $@#! out of the frame for over an hour. We also torqued the
fork arms with a very large piece of wood, and wrestled with them until
my knuckles turned white.

No sign of any cracks in the welds, or bent fork arms as far as I can
tell.


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maybe i could muscle it out at my house... or give it a good home...


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That would be a bad day.

The pipe cutter I have has rollers on both sides, but there is a trough
on one side that allows the metal to mushroom more on one side of the
cut than the other.

I'm going to get myself 'a good saw guide' (http://tinyurl.com/4g2ljb)
and then hide my pipe cutter.


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john_childs;1103659 wrote:
That would be a bad day.

The pipe cutter I have has rollers on both sides, but there is a trough
on one side that allows the metal to mushroom more on one side of the
cut than the other.

I'm going to get myself 'a good saw guide' (http://tinyurl.com/4g2ljb)
and then hide my pipe cutter.



I think if you filed it down enough, it might be ok.

But please note that I actually did a lot of filing before sticking it
in. And it still managed to weld itself in there.


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GizmoDuck;1103656 wrote:
We spent an hour wrestling with the frame, and heating it up with a
paint stripper. We moved it about 2cm, and then gave up.




I wouldn't give up on that frame just yet. Is this one of the frames
that allows you access to the seatpost through the bottom of the fork
crown? If not, cut the seatpost off the frame, leaving approximately 1"
sticking out (for purchase to pull on, later). Then take a raw hacksaw
blade and go at the seat post from the interior, cutting a slot in it
from the inside outward. If you're patient, you can do this with very
minimal damage to the frame. Once the slot is through the seatpost, when
you tug on it the circumference will collapse into the blade slot you
made and it should come out. If you can access the post through the fork
crown, I would concentrate only on the bottom inch or so, since we
presume that is where the binding is.

If you do get it out, I'd carefully inspect the frame for any burrs or
similar damage that might stick the *next* seatpost. They can easily be
cleaned up with a ream, or even a rat-tail file.


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adelman;1103665 wrote:
I wouldn't give up on that frame just yet. Is this one of the frames
that allows you access to the seatpost through the bottom of the fork
crown? If not, cut the seatpost off the frame, leaving approximately 1"
sticking out (for purchase to pull on, later). Then take a raw hacksaw
blade and go at the seat post from the interior, cutting a slot in it
from the inside outward. If you're patient, you can do this with very
minimal damage to the frame. Once the slot is through the seatpost, when
you tug on it the circumference will collapse into the blade slot you
made and it should come out. If you can access the post through the fork
crown, I would concentrate only on the bottom inch or so, since we
presume that is where the binding is.

If you do get it out, I'd carefully inspect the frame for any burrs or
similar damage that might stick the *next* seatpost. They can easily be
cleaned up with a ream, or even a rat-tail file.



No, it's a frame that is sealed at the bottom.

I don't normally give up easily, but I'm also not silly. Spending
several hours on something to just save a few dollars is not worth it.
I have no attachment to the frame...because it's new. If it was my
Coker frame then that's a different matter altogether. That has
sentimental value, and I'd happily file it down with sandpaper before I
gave up on it.

It really is depends on whether there are any KH frames in stock.


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Ken how large was the pipe cutter you were using? From what you say re
filing, it sounds like it was too big for the job causing excessive
flaring of the metal. The pipe cutter I use can only handle up to 30mm
dia, with a narrow cutting wheel - see pic. Haven't had any problems, no
need for filing, just a light sand.

Not that it helps much now, but didn't it feel unusually tight when you
started to put the seat post in?


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lunicycle;1103668 wrote:
Ken how large was the pipe cutter you were using? From what you say re
filing, it sounds like it was too big for the job causing excessive
flaring of the metal. The pipe cutter I use can only handle up to 30mm
dia, with a narrow cutting wheel - see pic. Haven't had any problems, no
need for filing, just a light sand.

Not that it helps much now, but didn't it feel unusually tight when you
started to put the seat post in?



It was about 3 1/2 times bigger than that.


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