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#122
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
On 28/11/2018 12:39 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-11-28 08:16, Duane wrote: On 28/11/2018 10:57 AM, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-27 16:59, John B. slocomb wrote: [...] The problem, at least my problem, with spinning is that without a meter to tell you how fast you are pedaling it is pretty hard to maintain a constant spin rate. One could, I suppose, calculate the bike speed in some gear at some pedal rate and then use the speedometer to try and maintain a constant pedal rate. Or do what I did and convert a speedometer to a rev meter. Or go all out and have one speedometer with a spoke sensor and a 2nd one mounted next to it with a sensor near the inner chain ring. With a cheap set such as the Bell 100 that should cost less than $30 for both. Or just do what most people do and buy a bike computer with speed and cadence.Â* Cateye's aren't that expensive.Â* Even a wireless one is probably 70 bucks CA. 70 bucks buys me the ingredients for brewing a 10 gallon batch of IPA :-) I am not very interested in cadence data, others might be. While I am trying to spin more at least under heavy load (one reason for this cassette hack) I don't care much about it on the longhaul routes in the valley. That's where I'll likely use the new "overdrives" a lot. I was replying to whomever wrote "Or go all out and have one speeometer..." My first smart phone is on the way and I am wondering whether that could be pressed into such service, with one Bluetooth transmitter at the spokes and another near the inner chain ring. Then maybe run Strava on top of that. Of course, battery runtime is a concern for all-day rides but in my case I could tie it into the large on-board lighting battery with a USB converter. Or press a dynamo into service. I think WAHOO makes bluetooth speed and cadence sensors.Â* The other option is to get the ant+ versions and then an ant+ dongle for your phone. Aha, thanks, I'll have to research that. I have copied this into the wiki file for the new phone so I remember what to look for. The phone would allow me to switch the same "cycling computation machine" between MTB and road bike, it wouldn't lose mileage totals upon battery changes and with its 5" screen I could keep more data on the display instead of just speed and time. I've tried using my phone as a bike computer. I have several apps that work but the problem is that the iPhone display isn't very legible in direct sunlight. I received a Garmin for a present since then and that works fine. Today you can buy head units to mount on your bar (Wahoo also I think) that connect to your phone and give you an lcd display. |
#123
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
On 2018-11-28 12:20, Duane wrote:
On 28/11/2018 12:39 PM, Joerg wrote: [...] The phone would allow me to switch the same "cycling computation machine" between MTB and road bike, it wouldn't lose mileage totals upon battery changes and with its 5" screen I could keep more data on the display instead of just speed and time. I've tried using my phone as a bike computer. I have several apps that work but the problem is that the iPhone display isn't very legible in direct sunlight. I received a Garmin for a present since then and that works fine. Today you can buy head units to mount on your bar (Wahoo also I think) that connect to your phone and give you an lcd display. That's a good idea. I'll see how the Samsung J3 fares in sunlight. Should be here later this week except there is no more sunlight, it's pouring. Time to stuff the rain coat into the left pannier. Maybe some sort of polarizer foil could help. A friend has his phone on the handlebar and he's happy with it. Not sure which brand though. I think there is a big difference between TFT, OLED and some other technologies WRT sunlight visibility. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#124
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
On Tuesday, November 27, 2018 at 5:56:48 PM UTC-6, John B. slocomb wrote:
On Tue, 27 Nov 2018 07:16:19 -0800, Joerg In my case, 10-speed with friction shifters would not be that great. Of course, I could buy a new bike ... Interesting. One of my bikes has a ten speed cassette and I shift it with a friction down tube shifter with no problems. Kind of weird, but maybe friction with many gears (10) works better than friction with old time 5 speed freewheels. You have to move the lever less distance to change gears. Its easier to shift 10 speed than 5 speed with friction shifters. |
#125
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
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#126
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
On 11/28/2018 4:46 PM, AMuzi wrote:
Having test ridden customers' bikes with friction eight, nine, ten it's not as difficult as you might imagine. Modern chain and tooth shapes give them snappier shifts than some classic straight-tooth sprockets with half as many choices. The chain and tooth shape developments have surely helped. Another, I think, has been derailleur design. As I understand and remember it, SunTour's slant parallelogram was a very significant step forward. Then Shimano figured out how to balance the mount spring and the tension spring to keep idler-to-sprocket distance much more consistent. When SunTour's patent expired, they added that trick. That, plus another minor trick or three, have made index shifting workable and friction shifting much easier. There was a time when I rode with plastic Simplex shifters of questionable geometry and rigidity, old-style cables that were often badly lubricated, friction levers whose friction adjustments wouldn't stay put, trying to convince a chain with square plates to jump cogs with no provisions for lateral chain motion. Young 'uns have no idea how tough we were. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#127
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
On Wed, 28 Nov 2018 08:00:43 -0600, AMuzi wrote:
On 11/27/2018 10:01 PM, John B. slocomb wrote: On Tue, 27 Nov 2018 20:04:28 -0600, AMuzi wrote: On 11/27/2018 7:56 PM, John B. slocomb wrote: On Tue, 27 Nov 2018 20:31:22 -0500, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 11/27/2018 6:54 PM, John B. slocomb wrote: On Tue, 27 Nov 2018 07:07:10 -0800, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-26 19:43, John B. slocomb wrote: On Mon, 26 Nov 2018 14:24:45 -0800, Joerg wrote: [...] Speaking of hacking cassettes. I have one bicycle wheel that has a 9-speed hacked cassette with a corncob cluster 11 to 19 teeth being shifted with friction downtube shifters which is good because one of the cogs I could not find on my spare 9 speed cassettes was take from and 8 speed cassette. I have no problems shifting to or from any of those cogs. It's a fun bike to ride on gently rolling hills. On my long distance road bike I have the Campagnolo Veloce 30 - 42 - 52 triple crank and find that 30 teeth ring useful at times in strong headwinds, steep hills or if I'm really tired. However, I think some people like Joerg simply enjoy making something work with something it wasn't designed to work with. Oh yeah. Sometimes you get a little bonus in the wake. For example, this new cassette came with 11T and 13T as smallest cogs. Because of its construction these had to stay in unless I'd do a more serious hack on the big grinder. Turns out that 52/11 acts like an overdrive in a car and if the wind picks up a wee bit I can shift to 13T. Currently I am missing 15T so I accelerate for the last bit on the 18T, then shift to the 13T for a "mild overdrive". It suits me well because I am not used to spinning. Interesting. A 52/11 with a 23mm tire at a moderate 90 RPM crank speed is about 54 KPH or 33 MPH. I read that TdF level riders will ride a 36 K time trial in the 29 - 31 MPH range. Then there are people who prefer not to ride longer distance at 90rpm. I often ride at 20mph and the resulting lower rpm feels just right. While "spinning" initially seems difficult it really isn't and it is the most efficient method of powering a bicycle. (horse) Power = RPM x Force Perhaps I shouldn't be pedantic, but it's really RPM x Torque. Alternately, it's velocity x Force. (Yes, with appropriate conversion factors.) Well yes, or many other formula :-) I was trying to simplify things by talking about RPM, i.e. velocity, and force on the pedals, i.e. torque. Somewhat similar to Watt's original calculation with the horse and the mill wheel. :-) No matter what gear, we cannot raise 33,000lb one foot in one minute. You are right. But the calculation is Ft. Lbs. and minutes and a trained athlete can generate as much as 3.5 H.P. ( Usain Bolt ) for very short periods of time. To get such high output from a human one needs to consider very short duration: https://www.physicsforums.com/thread...n-power.58140/ Well, when your races last for less then 10 seconds I guess it can be called very short duration :-) cheers, John B. |
#128
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
On Wed, 28 Nov 2018 11:35:47 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote: On 11/28/2018 9:57 AM, jbeattie wrote: On Tuesday, November 27, 2018 at 5:32:52 PM UTC-8, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 11/27/2018 7:59 PM, John B. slocomb wrote: The problem, at least my problem, with spinning is that without a meter to tell you how fast you are pedaling it is pretty hard to maintain a constant spin rate. One could, I suppose, calculate the bike speed in some gear at some pedal rate and then use the speedometer to try and maintain a constant pedal rate. Or do what I did and convert a speedometer to a rev meter. There are cyclometers available with cadence displays. An extra switch & magnet set are fitted to the cranks. We've got one on our tandem. In the modern world, cadence data is produced by an accelerometer on your crank and sent to your sunglasses wirelessly via Bluetooth or ANT -- along with data from your heart rate monitor, orbiting satellite, passing cyclists and the Wall Street Journal. https://everysight.com/ Perfect gift for the holiday season! My son just gave me a Stages head unit, but I have yet to put it on my bike. I ride with other people who have computers and prefer the social aspect and surprise of learning distance/time/elevation at the end of the ride. It is usually depressing -- "we only went 32.6 miles?" Speaking of the modern era, I did not see anyone exiting my building last night who was not staring at a phone. I have a new rule of relegation: if you are in an elevator staring at your phone, and the door opens, I am getting out before you -- whether you are man, woman or child. Same goes with getting on. From the Raptor advertisement web page: "Always Connected - Raptor connects to your smartphone via Bluetooth so you’re always on top of emails, texts, schedules, and more. No need to stop to check your phone – it’s all right there." Oh joy. And I also get numbers in my field of vision everywhere I look? Thank God I won't have to bother about appreciating that nice view, or spotting that soaring hawk. And it will be nice to have something to distract and amuse me while I'm riding in crowded traffic. Gosh, sign me up! Recently someone posted a reference to a video of a bicyclist who rode straight into the back of a parked car... perhaps the cyclist was checking his heart rate in his sunglasses and didn't notice the car. cheers, John B. |
#129
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
On Wed, 28 Nov 2018 07:57:26 -0800, Joerg
wrote: On 2018-11-27 16:59, John B. slocomb wrote: On Tue, 27 Nov 2018 16:12:10 -0800, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-27 15:54, John B. slocomb wrote: On Tue, 27 Nov 2018 07:07:10 -0800, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-26 19:43, John B. slocomb wrote: On Mon, 26 Nov 2018 14:24:45 -0800, Joerg wrote: [...] Speaking of hacking cassettes. I have one bicycle wheel that has a 9-speed hacked cassette with a corncob cluster 11 to 19 teeth being shifted with friction downtube shifters which is good because one of the cogs I could not find on my spare 9 speed cassettes was take from and 8 speed cassette. I have no problems shifting to or from any of those cogs. It's a fun bike to ride on gently rolling hills. On my long distance road bike I have the Campagnolo Veloce 30 - 42 - 52 triple crank and find that 30 teeth ring useful at times in strong headwinds, steep hills or if I'm really tired. However, I think some people like Joerg simply enjoy making something work with something it wasn't designed to work with. Oh yeah. Sometimes you get a little bonus in the wake. For example, this new cassette came with 11T and 13T as smallest cogs. Because of its construction these had to stay in unless I'd do a more serious hack on the big grinder. Turns out that 52/11 acts like an overdrive in a car and if the wind picks up a wee bit I can shift to 13T. Currently I am missing 15T so I accelerate for the last bit on the 18T, then shift to the 13T for a "mild overdrive". It suits me well because I am not used to spinning. Interesting. A 52/11 with a 23mm tire at a moderate 90 RPM crank speed is about 54 KPH or 33 MPH. I read that TdF level riders will ride a 36 K time trial in the 29 - 31 MPH range. Then there are people who prefer not to ride longer distance at 90rpm. I often ride at 20mph and the resulting lower rpm feels just right. While "spinning" initially seems difficult it really isn't and it is the most efficient method of powering a bicycle. (horse) Power = RPM x Force I am just not used to it and spent most of my cycling life in sort of an "overdrive". Old dog, new tricks? Nah ... Also, the taller a person is the less he or she generally likes high rpm. (and, yes I know there is a constant used to convert to some specified output value :-) My legs can pump all the output I want from them. Eventually I just run out of breath, that's the limiter. That can be trained up as well but I don't have any Tour de France ambitions. Maybe so, but after all when riding a bicycle a tall person's feet go up and down the same distance as a short persons ( crank arm length X 2) :-) Still, taller people often run lower rpm. Also, they tend to prefer the longer crank versions. Yes, I've seen formula for leg length versus crank length. But it isn't usually the legs that give up, at least not on the flat, it is the lungs and spinning, as it takes less effort from the body and requires less oxygen so one can spin at a higher bike speed for longer periods. Maybe but I am just not used to it. I know that mashing is bad also for the knee joints. I guess that habit formed because back in the days you could only get corncob cassettes for UG. At least that's how it was at the LBS in Europe and that always meant mashing when riding in places such as Eastern Belgium where I rode a lot. The problem, at least my problem, with spinning is that without a meter to tell you how fast you are pedaling it is pretty hard to maintain a constant spin rate. One could, I suppose, calculate the bike speed in some gear at some pedal rate and then use the speedometer to try and maintain a constant pedal rate. Or do what I did and convert a speedometer to a rev meter. Or go all out and have one speedometer with a spoke sensor and a 2nd one mounted next to it with a sensor near the inner chain ring. With a cheap set such as the Bell 100 that should cost less than $30 for both. My first smart phone is on the way and I am wondering whether that could be pressed into such service, with one Bluetooth transmitter at the spokes and another near the inner chain ring. Then maybe run Strava on top of that. Of course, battery runtime is a concern for all-day rides but in my case I could tie it into the large on-board lighting battery with a USB converter. Or press a dynamo into service. cheers, John B. |
#130
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
On Wed, 28 Nov 2018 15:20:01 -0500, Duane
wrote: On 28/11/2018 12:39 PM, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-28 08:16, Duane wrote: On 28/11/2018 10:57 AM, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-27 16:59, John B. slocomb wrote: [...] The problem, at least my problem, with spinning is that without a meter to tell you how fast you are pedaling it is pretty hard to maintain a constant spin rate. One could, I suppose, calculate the bike speed in some gear at some pedal rate and then use the speedometer to try and maintain a constant pedal rate. Or do what I did and convert a speedometer to a rev meter. Or go all out and have one speedometer with a spoke sensor and a 2nd one mounted next to it with a sensor near the inner chain ring. With a cheap set such as the Bell 100 that should cost less than $30 for both. Or just do what most people do and buy a bike computer with speed and cadence.* Cateye's aren't that expensive.* Even a wireless one is probably 70 bucks CA. 70 bucks buys me the ingredients for brewing a 10 gallon batch of IPA :-) I am not very interested in cadence data, others might be. While I am trying to spin more at least under heavy load (one reason for this cassette hack) I don't care much about it on the longhaul routes in the valley. That's where I'll likely use the new "overdrives" a lot. I was replying to whomever wrote "Or go all out and have one speeometer..." My first smart phone is on the way and I am wondering whether that could be pressed into such service, with one Bluetooth transmitter at the spokes and another near the inner chain ring. Then maybe run Strava on top of that. Of course, battery runtime is a concern for all-day rides but in my case I could tie it into the large on-board lighting battery with a USB converter. Or press a dynamo into service. I think WAHOO makes bluetooth speed and cadence sensors.* The other option is to get the ant+ versions and then an ant+ dongle for your phone. Aha, thanks, I'll have to research that. I have copied this into the wiki file for the new phone so I remember what to look for. The phone would allow me to switch the same "cycling computation machine" between MTB and road bike, it wouldn't lose mileage totals upon battery changes and with its 5" screen I could keep more data on the display instead of just speed and time. I've tried using my phone as a bike computer. I have several apps that work but the problem is that the iPhone display isn't very legible in direct sunlight. I received a Garmin for a present since then and that works fine. Today you can buy head units to mount on your bar (Wahoo also I think) that connect to your phone and give you an lcd display. I can see it now. The modern cyclist... head down, arse in the air, staring at his smart phone... But Officer I was looking at my telephone. cheers, John B. |
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