Thank You Dave Stockton! (36/54)

Regarding what my pal Stockton wrote about idling:
There is little point to idling a shiftable guni in high gear -- just
downshift into the low gear. In the case of Harper's uni.5, I tested the
first (24") version and found it easier to idle or ride one-footed on
than my Coker. It took a few minutes' practice (and a bit of bravery). I
know that Roger Davies can pretty much do anything he likes on his Coker
(wheelwalking included).
But even on my Coker, it makes little sense to idle since, as Mike
points out, still-standing is easier and more practical. That's what I'd
do if I had to stop at a light while riding his geared up Coker. Idling
a wheel with an effective size nearing 8' per half-rev really doesn't
make sense, and it would be hard as hell. Unless you had cranks 2'
long.

Regarding cranks size:
170s are ok. That's 7", right? I would probably opt for 7" and then
consider going down in half-inch increments till hitting 6", but I don't
think I'd ever go shorter than that. It depends on the terrain. On my
Coker, I was using 110s till I realized that I could have much more
control without giving up commute speed if I went to 125s.

9" cranks wouldn't be a bad idea!


--
David_Stone

Dictator for Life,
NYUC
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David_Stone wrote:
*
Regarding cranks size:
170s are ok. That's 7", right? I would probably opt for 7" and then
consider going down in half-inch increments till hitting 6", but I
don't think I'd ever go shorter than that. It depends on the terrain.
On my Coker, I was using 110s till I realized that I could have much
more control without giving up commute speed if I went to 125s.

9" cranks wouldn't be a bad idea! *


170mm is actually about 6.7". I think I'm going to stay there for a
while. There's no need for short cranks since you really don't have to
spin, and you NEED the torque. I think it's also easier to mount with
longer cranks.

I think 9" (229mm) cranks would be a bit much unless you're very tall.


--
mscalisi - Not such a newbie anymore
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