Pedal crank extractor.

I have a crank "puller" comprised of a large threaded outer that screws into
the pedal crank, it has a threaded centre that screws in against the crank
spindle to separate the two.

Problem is; I noticed its not a very snug fit and often pushes out of the
thread in the pedal crank instead of pushing the crank off the spindle.

Its from an El-cheapo toolset from the Lidl discount store chain, so My
first thought is faulty tolerances - but are there "close but not quite"
different sizes?

For now the only way I can think of removing the pedal crank, is slacken the
retaining bolt, apply some WD40/GT85 and carry on using it till the crank
comes loose.

Thanks for any help.

On 4/14/2013 4:59 PM, Ian Field wrote:
I have a crank "puller" comprised of a large threaded outer
that screws into the pedal crank, it has a threaded centre
that screws in against the crank spindle to separate the two.

Problem is; I noticed its not a very snug fit and often
pushes out of the thread in the pedal crank instead of
pushing the crank off the spindle.

Its from an El-cheapo toolset from the Lidl discount store
chain, so My first thought is faulty tolerances - but are
there "close but not quite" different sizes?

For now the only way I can think of removing the pedal
crank, is slacken the retaining bolt, apply some WD40/GT85
and carry on using it till the crank comes loose.

Thanks for any help.

Will you be using this crank again or is the removal just a
step in your new crank process? If you'll toss the thing,
warming the aluminum crank with a hand-held propane torch
works for that. Once warm, a tap on the back side does it.
Don't grab it with your fingers and don't heat a
nylon-coated steel crank; those catch fire before loosening.

General technique is: first clean the crank thread, install
tool fully and snug with a wrench, lubricate the tool thread
and then drive the crank off.

If you'll re use it, try mounting a known-good tool properly
and if that fails write back. There are various techniques
to remove a no-remover-thread aluminum crank, all with hard
choices about appearance, subsequent usefulness and/or cash.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Ian Field wrote:
:I have a crank "puller" comprised of a large threaded outer that screws into
:the pedal crank, it has a threaded centre that screws in against the crank
:spindle to separate the two.

:Problem is; I noticed its not a very snug fit and often pushes out of the
:thread in the pedal crank instead of pushing the crank off the spindle.

:Its from an El-cheapo toolset from the Lidl discount store chain, so My
:first thought is faulty tolerances - but are there "close but not quite"
:different sizes?

:For now the only way I can think of removing the pedal crank, is slacken the
:retaining bolt, apply some WD40/GT85 and carry on using it till the crank
:comes loose.

Assuming a square taper BB and not something weird and modern, jacobs
chuck removal wedges work well. May require a spacer behind them with
long spindles.


--
sig 88

we have shimano puller and geee whiz I love using it. the extractor is coated with hi linseed content anti seize as grease. Slimy.

all extraction are divided in 3 parts: prior penetrating oil pref PCBLASTER loaded into a brushed out entry, cleaned female threading, and heat heat heat.\

Jeeez what are nylon coated cranks ? backpackers in blackfly season ?

cleaning threads: visit Wal or your gourmand section in the superduper for a pacl o corn cob squeewers-ok spell check-bend a tip with needle nose p;liers then file into a flat chisel shape with point. Use this tool for scraping the female thread bottoms poss using a light dab of thinner on tip. There's alotta residual crap down there more or less unseen. REMOOOOOVE !

Heat the crank body before turning the already snugged tool. Having a puller does not allow cold pulls unless, off course, you have a nylon coated crank.

On 14 Apr, 22:59, "Ian Field" wrote:
I have a crank "puller" comprised of a large threaded outer that screws into
the pedal crank, it has a threaded centre that screws in against the crank
spindle to separate the two.

Problem is; I noticed its not a very snug fit and often pushes out of the
thread in the pedal crank instead of pushing the crank off the spindle.

Its from an El-cheapo toolset from the Lidl discount store chain, so My
first thought is faulty tolerances - but are there "close but not quite"
different sizes?

For now the only way I can think of removing the pedal crank, is slacken the
retaining bolt, apply some WD40/GT85 and carry on using it till the crank
comes loose.

Thanks for any help.

I'd just make it fit. Use a molybdenum disulphide lubricant on this
tool and you will direcly feel its superiority to "cycle
lubricants". Long spanner and bury the thread in the crank. Make
sure you take the bolt or not off the spindle first and back off the
inner part of the tool before burying the outer.

Oh hold on I misread, duh, well you can help it by dusting the
thread with rosin and wrapping string around it so as it stays
central, but I'd look to try one from a shop if you have the same
loose fit with the next crank. As you may be able to tell, my
extractor is generally a tight fit and I use a brass brush over the
thread before lubing and fitting to a quality/expensive crank.

If it's a pretty ****ty crank they'll sometimes fall of with a glance
from a toffee hammer, but I'd go with a short ride with the bolt in
your pocket. It'll be ready when it falls off, save damaging the
crank taper.

On 15 Apr, 01:33, datakoll wrote:
we have shimano puller and geee whiz I love using it. the extractor is coated with hi linseed content anti seize as grease. Slimy.

all extraction are divided in 3 parts: prior penetrating oil pref PCBLASTER loaded into a brushed out entry, cleaned female threading, and heat heat heat.\

Jeeez what are nylon coated cranks ? backpackers in blackfly season ?

cleaning threads: visit Wal or your gourmand section in the superduper for a pacl o corn cob squeewers-ok spell check-bend *a tip with needle nose p;liers then file into a flat chisel shape with point. Use this tool for scraping the female thread bottoms poss using a light dab of thinner on tip. There's alotta residual crap down there more or less unseen. REMOOOOOVE !

Heat the crank body before turning the already snugged tool. Having a puller does not allow cold pulls unless, off course, you have a nylon coated crank.

Hmmm, install puller and heat puller. Dunno, could maybe work, but
I'm guessing the crank could be sinking the heat fast so it would
depend on the bulk of the tool and how fast one applies torque.

WELL THEN USE HI TEMP RED LOCTITE ?

after surface prep

hard to that a puller duznot have 80+ threading.

On 4/14/2013 10:22 PM, datakoll wrote:
WELL THEN USE HI TEMP RED LOCTITE ?

after surface prep

hard to that a puller duznot have 80+ threading.


The standard thread is m22 x 1, not a great choice for
aluminum and the loads involved but that's the world standard.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 15/04/13 13:30, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/14/2013 10:22 PM, datakoll wrote:
WELL THEN USE HI TEMP RED LOCTITE ?

after surface prep

hard to that a puller duznot have 80+ threading.


The standard thread is m22 x 1, not a great choice for aluminum and the
loads involved but that's the world standard.


And another reason I loooove the Campag Ultra Torque crank set.

--
JS.

On Sunday, April 14, 2013 5:59:00 PM UTC-4, Ian Field wrote:
I have a crank "puller" comprised of a large threaded outer that screws into

the pedal crank, it has a threaded centre that screws in against the crank

spindle to separate the two.



Problem is; I noticed its not a very snug fit and often pushes out of the

thread in the pedal crank instead of pushing the crank off the spindle.



Its from an El-cheapo toolset from the Lidl discount store chain, so My

first thought is faulty tolerances - but are there "close but not quite"

different sizes?



For now the only way I can think of removing the pedal crank, is slacken the

retaining bolt, apply some WD40/GT85 and carry on using it till the crank

comes loose.



Thanks for any help.

Ah, you atr completely removing the crank fixing bolt or nut from the crank spindle before screwing in the crank extractor? Also, is it possible you have the tool designed for a nutted crank but are trying to remove a bolted crank? When that happens the tool for a nutted crank will often go inside the bolr hollow of the crank spindle instead of putting pressure on the spindle.

Cheers