Net instructions on rear wheel installation on road bike

Jeff Wills wrote:
:: "Roger Zoul" wrote in message
:: ...
:::
::: any ideas on what to try next?
::
:: Consult- in person- someone who can watch what you're doing and
:: correct your mistakes. If you bought the bike at a shop, go back.
:: They should be willing to help out.
::

Right...I'll give it one more good shot and if that doesn't get it, I'll go
back to the shop. I felt I made significant progress on the next attempt
after posting here. Sadly, I only get a couple of minutes a day to fiddle on
weekdays (of course, I could have been riding on Sunday and Monday were it
not for a flat on the rear).

Roger Zoul wrote:

I balanced the bike on the handlebars with the rear wheel straight up....

I got everything hooked up...breaks work, gears shift, wheel spins....

howeer, I'm not confident as the real axle does not seem to be fully seating
within the frame dropout....even though the quick release level is firmly
closed....I can see a space on either side, and I can see where there is an
imprint of grease where the axle used to be....I'm afraid of this...I've
tried adjusting it twice, but I have not been able to get the side opposite
the chain to fully seat within the dropout...

any ideas on what to try next?

Now you should place the bike right side up. Loosen the quick release a
bit, and the weight of the bike will cause the axel to drop into place.

Then make sure the tire is centered between the chainstays. Adjust the
quick release so that you start to feel resistance when the lever is half
closed. Then, without disturbing the wheel position, press the lever fully
closed. Spin the wheel and make sure everything is working normally.

Art Harris

Harris wrote:
:: Roger Zoul wrote:
::
::: I balanced the bike on the handlebars with the rear wheel straight
::: up....
::
::: I got everything hooked up...breaks work, gears shift, wheel
::: spins....
::
::: howeer, I'm not confident as the real axle does not seem to be
::: fully seating within the frame dropout....even though the quick
::: release level is firmly closed....I can see a space on either side,
::: and I can see where there is an imprint of grease where the axle
::: used to be....I'm afraid of this...I've tried adjusting it twice,
::: but I have not been able to get the side opposite the chain to
::: fully seat within the dropout...
::
::: any ideas on what to try next?
::
:: Now you should place the bike right side up. Loosen the quick
:: release a
:: bit, and the weight of the bike will cause the axel to drop into
:: place.
::
:: Then make sure the tire is centered between the chainstays. Adjust
:: the
:: quick release so that you start to feel resistance when the lever is
:: half closed. Then, without disturbing the wheel position, press the
:: lever fully closed. Spin the wheel and make sure everything is
:: working normally.

Oh....something else to try! Thanks.

::
:: Art Harris

Carl Fogel wrote:
:: "Roger Zoul" wrote in message
:: ... [snip]
:::
::: I got everything hooked up...breaks work, gears shift, wheel
::: spins....
:::
::: howeer, I'm not confident as the real axle does not seem to be
::: fully seating
::: within the frame dropout....even though the quick release level is
::: firmly
::: closed....I can see a space on either side, and I can see where
::: there is an
::: imprint of grease where the axle used to be....I'm afraid of
::: this...I've
::: tried adjusting it twice, but I have not been able to get the side
::: opposite
::: the chain to fully seat within the dropout...
:::
::: any ideas on what to try next?
::
:: Dear Roger,
::
:: It's faintly possible that you have to reason with it more
:: forcefully.
::
:: You might try pulling on the chain-stay tubes to spread
:: them slightly--they should flex outward a tiny bit without
:: any danger of breaking the frame.
::
:: Grabbing the rim and waggling the wheel while pulling it
:: into the frame might also overcome a minor mismatch. With
:: some stubborn parts, it's more a matter of confidence from
:: previous success than actual brute strength. These parts
:: are fairly sturdy.
::
:: Again, you may need to pull the derailleur back before
:: the axle will seat fully. If the part of the derailleur
:: near the dropout interferes at all, you have very poor
:: leverage with just the axle for pushing it out of the way.
::
:: If all else fails, a bike shop can probably either slap it
:: in place in an embarrassing moment, explain what washer or
:: part has been reassembled in the wrong order, or console you
:: that it's not your fault because the wretched thing is somehow
:: damaged.
::

Honestly, I feel as if since I bought the bike, I must master this very
basic thing. However, if I don't get it going with all of these good ideas,
I'll tuck tail and take it back to the LBS...then the drop-dead gorgeous
honey who sold me the bike can snicker at me for not being able to do simply
stuff with it. Damn!

Thanks for the help!


:: Good luck,
::
:: Carl Fogel

"Roger Zoul" wrote in message
...
Honestly, I feel as if since I bought the bike, I must master this very
basic thing. However, if I don't get it going with all of these good
ideas,
I'll tuck tail and take it back to the LBS...then the drop-dead gorgeous
honey who sold me the bike can snicker at me for not being able to do
simply
stuff with it. Damn!

Just pretend you're only doing it as a pretense to check her out again

Bill "two birds with one quick release" S.

Message 1 in thread
From: g.daniels )
Subject: DIY tire removal


View this article only
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Date: 2003-01-31 08:18:58 PST


try teflon wax on the bead before assembly then lube both leading bead
and tool end. pinch in all around twice and work the tire massage bead
in to the opposite side of the nipple! holding tire vertically pull up
on that opposite side while holding tire down litely with the
foot.pull pul pull
then place the first lever in at that pull spot and
fix it to a spoke with the tools's crook then work the bead in and
around and toward that lever again! the repeat bead in and move around
with the lever's help at the other side is trick.
lube the tire's
leading edge bead with wax/tef and stick the tool in and gently pry
the bead out. put another tool in just ahead of the last tool fixing
each to a spoke. remove the middle tool and place it under the bead
and just over the rim and pry that small section of tire bead
out.repeat.repeat until the bead no longer resists and will leave the
tire rim with a finger under the bead.I write from experience. Never
assume the bead is in, make sure the bead is in. the odds are that the
problem is the mechanic's not the manufacturer.

-snip remounting rear wheel-
Roger Zoul wrote:
I balanced the bike on the handlebars with the rear wheel straight up....

I got everything hooked up...breaks work, gears shift, wheel spins....

howeer, I'm not confident as the real axle does not seem to be fully seating
within the frame dropout....even though the quick release level is firmly
closed....I can see a space on either side, and I can see where there is an
imprint of grease where the axle used to be....I'm afraid of this...I've
tried adjusting it twice, but I have not been able to get the side opposite
the chain to fully seat within the dropout...

any ideas on what to try next?

If your gear changer mounts on an adapter, the wheel will be
properly situated when the axle's all the way back on the
right side and somewhere in the middle on the left side.

Just ensure the tire is centered between the seatstays and
between the chainstays.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

A Muzi wrote:
:: -snip remounting rear wheel-
:: Roger Zoul wrote:
::: I balanced the bike on the handlebars with the rear wheel straight
::: up....
:::
::: I got everything hooked up...breaks work, gears shift, wheel
::: spins....
:::
::: howeer, I'm not confident as the real axle does not seem to be
::: fully seating within the frame dropout....even though the quick
::: release level is firmly closed....I can see a space on either side,
::: and I can see where there is an imprint of grease where the axle
::: used to be....I'm afraid of this...I've tried adjusting it twice,
::: but I have not been able to get the side opposite the chain to
::: fully seat within the dropout...
:::
::: any ideas on what to try next?
::
:: If your gear changer mounts on an adapter, the wheel will be
:: properly situated when the axle's all the way back on the
:: right side and somewhere in the middle on the left side.

Hmmm...that is an interesting comment. I don't know if the gear changer is
mounted on an adapter or not, but the axle did easily go all the way back on
the right side and somewhere in the middle on the left, as you state. I was
trying to get it all the way back on both sides, but that seemed to uncenter
the tire.
::
:: Just ensure the tire is centered between the seatstays and
:: between the chainstays.

I'm not sure what the seatstays and chainstays are. I'll check Sheldon's
site for info. Thanks.

On 6 Oct 2003 11:27:14 -0700, (Carl Fogel) may
have said:


If your seat, speedometer, and brake hoods will stand it (and
you don't tell Jobst Brandt), it's much easier to wrestle with
a reluctant rear wheel if you flip the bike upside-down.

And if you're finicky about stressing the cables or brake hoods, a few
pieces of 2x4 judiciously placed can alleviate that tension and make
it a moot point. (When I invert my road bike to work on it, I have a
bridge made from one long and two short pieces of 2x4 which fits in
and supports the bars across the drops; the rest of the stuff never
hits the ground.) (For the MTBs, a pair of supports out near the ends
of the bars, with a notch to prevent them from sliding off, keeps
everything about 4" above the ground very nicely.)

--
My email address is antispammed;
pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Yes, I have a killfile. If I don't respond to something,
it's also possible that I'm busy.

Werehatrack wrote in message . ..
On 6 Oct 2003 11:27:14 -0700, (Carl Fogel) may
have said:


If your seat, speedometer, and brake hoods will stand it (and
you don't tell Jobst Brandt), it's much easier to wrestle with
a reluctant rear wheel if you flip the bike upside-down.

And if you're finicky about stressing the cables or brake hoods, a few
pieces of 2x4 judiciously placed can alleviate that tension and make
it a moot point. (When I invert my road bike to work on it, I have a
bridge made from one long and two short pieces of 2x4 which fits in
and supports the bars across the drops; the rest of the stuff never
hits the ground.) (For the MTBs, a pair of supports out near the ends
of the bars, with a notch to prevent them from sliding off, keeps
everything about 4" above the ground very nicely.)

Dear Werehatrack,

Once again, I find myself wondering why other people have
the better ideas. Your rack and notch sound excellent. I
never thought past a scrap of 2x4 under one brake hood to
tilt the bike so that the oil would drip away from the frame
and seat.

Time to do some carpentry--to the Bat Cave!

Carl Fogel