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Headset bearings.



 
 
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  #11  
Old July 9th 14, 06:41 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
ian field
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Posts: 1,008
Default Headset bearings.



wrote in message
...
I'll begin tracking AJ with Daniels' Law !

Sheldon-harris should solve the headset question but a vernier would help
after disassembly.


Taking it all apart and losing various bits is something I'd like to avoid.

If it gets bad enough I might be motivated to prepare my spare for use, with
any luck by then I'll have more salvage to choose from and use whatever
fits.

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  #12  
Old August 19th 14, 09:18 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
ian field
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Posts: 1,008
Default Headset bearings.



"David Scheidt" wrote in message
...
Ian Field wrote:

:Is there a "rule of thumb" to gague whether the bearing cups are *likely*
to
:fit before pulling it all apart?

Yes: they won't.


Really funny story - its the saddle creaking, the noise resonates through
the whole frame and sounds like its coming from the front end!

  #13  
Old August 21st 14, 02:03 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Gregory Sutter
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Posts: 166
Default Headset bearings.

On 2014-08-19, Ian Field wrote:

Really funny story - its the saddle creaking, the noise resonates through
the whole frame and sounds like its coming from the front end!


Yes. I once replaced a perfectly good bottom bracket due to the
exact same thing. It's amazing how the sound appears to come from
a completely different place.

--
Gregory S. Sutter Mostly Harmless

http://zer0.org/~gsutter/
  #14  
Old August 21st 14, 02:18 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Ralph Barone[_3_]
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Posts: 321
Default Headset bearings.

Gregory Sutter wrote:
On 2014-08-19, Ian Field wrote:

Really funny story - its the saddle creaking, the noise resonates through
the whole frame and sounds like its coming from the front end!


Yes. I once replaced a perfectly good bottom bracket due to the
exact same thing. It's amazing how the sound appears to come from
a completely different place.



I finally traced the annoying click from my bottom bracket to an
inadequately tightened pedal.
  #15  
Old August 21st 14, 04:34 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
ian field
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Posts: 1,008
Default Headset bearings.



"Gregory Sutter" wrote in message
...
On 2014-08-19, Ian Field wrote:

Really funny story - its the saddle creaking, the noise resonates through
the whole frame and sounds like its coming from the front end!


Yes. I once replaced a perfectly good bottom bracket due to the
exact same thing. It's amazing how the sound appears to come from
a completely different place.


The alloy frame probably made a huge difference - but I've no idea what!

  #16  
Old August 22nd 14, 12:49 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
James[_8_]
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Posts: 6,153
Default Headset bearings.

On 21/08/14 23:18, Ralph Barone wrote:
Gregory Sutter wrote:
On 2014-08-19, Ian Field wrote:

Really funny story - its the saddle creaking, the noise resonates through
the whole frame and sounds like its coming from the front end!


Yes. I once replaced a perfectly good bottom bracket due to the
exact same thing. It's amazing how the sound appears to come from
a completely different place.



I finally traced the annoying click from my bottom bracket to an
inadequately tightened pedal.


A friend proclaimed I had a loose chain ring bolt or two, due to the
ticking noise my bike had. I thought it was the bottom bracket bearing
moving in the cup (cartridge type) or the cup moving in the frame.

When I got home I loosened each chain ring bolt, gave each a squirt of
lube and tightened them again. The ticking persisted.

I then pulled the left crank, took the cup out, cleaned, lubricated and
reassembled. The ticking was gone. (This was on my old bike, not the
one with Campy Ultra Torque cranks and BB.)

Last night I got a ticking around the front of the bike. Tightening the
front skewer fixed it.

On that last one, I wonder whether a lot of ticking noises and potential
for wheels to drop out from loose QR levers, would be solved by using a
tapered end on the QR nut and lever face, and similarly tapered face on
the frame ends.

I realise the clamping force would try to spread the frame ends....
OTOH, if the QR nut face was concave, and the frame ends had a cone, the
frame ends would be pulled together and lock on to the axle as well.

Think Jobst and the pedal/crank arm interface, but put the taper on the
outside of the crank as a conical lump.

--
JS
 




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