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Kooka crank surgery



 
 
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  #1  
Old October 20th 03, 09:26 PM
TonyMelton
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Default Kooka crank surgery


Hi y'all

My right Kooka crank is now so far advanced up the square taper of the
Suzue hub that it now touches the bearing holder. This stops free
rotation of the wheel.

I thought to fix this I could either try shimming the taper or grinding
off some of the inner lip of the crank. I've tried shims made from
aluminium cans in the past and they haven't lasted long - they turn into
Al paste very quickly. I wonder if the plumbers' shim would last longer
as its made of stronger metal? The other more drastic fix is to grind
off some metal from the inboard inside of the crank. As the right crank
is designed to accept a spider there is a 3mm lip that could be ground
off to give a little clearence between crank and bearing holder. The
downside of doing this is that it shortens the square hole in the crank
and thus reduces the contact area with the flats of the taper. I wonder
if there is another, better way?

Any suggestions, anyone?


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  #2  
Old October 20th 03, 10:35 PM
U-Turn
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Default Kooka crank surgery


Well, one idea is to grind off the lip and then move that set of cranks
to your Coker arsenal, and get another set of Kookas for what I presume
to be your MUni. With the Coker you won't be doing the drops and it
would be nice to have the longer cranks for extremely hilly terrain.


--
U-Turn - Small fish, big pond

Weep in the dojo... laugh in the battlefield.

'Strongest Coker Wheel in the World'
(http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/albup39)

-- Dave Stockton
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