I am that out of date

On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 8:07:14 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 7:52:41 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/25/2021 10:17 AM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 7:46:20 AM UTC-7, Roger Merriman wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 8:59:48 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/22/2021 10:36 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/21/2021 10:33 PM, wrote:

I somehow forgot about clipless pedals. They are a HUGE
improvement. I started with Time Equipe road pedals back
in the late 1980s, early 1990s. Same ones Lemond used.

Interestingly, the guy who set our club's record for club
mileage (11,000+ miles of club rides, not counting his
individual rides) just got a new pair of shoes for riding.
They're ordinary New Balance sneakers. He rides using toe
clips.

There are also the occasional barefoot marathon runner and
US football kicker. They are outliers.

One of our club riders mentioned that most falls on bicycles stems from
people not getting their feet out of clips rapidly enough. So he reverted
to flat pedals. Now he cannot keep up on any climbs. And people with
training can get out of pedals just as fast as he can step off of a flat
pedal since they are ready to clip out when the conditions warrant care.

Can’t say I have found any performance difference at all, I used clipless
for a few years on my first road bike, was fine, never struggled to clip in
or out or had a clip less moment but I never loved them.

Few years back bought a CX bike for hacking about the woods plus road and
put some MTB flats on, and used my MTB flat shoes, ie pedals with pins in,
plus shoes with soft tacky tread.

In short with proper flats you can’t slide the shoe but have to lift to
reposition, unlike the road flats which are frankly terrifying slippy.

I’ve done 100+ miles on them, climbed up big mountains, tackled seriously
steep climbs etc.

I’ve seen opinions dressed as science with huge gains for clipless but
proper stuff the gains is marginal, apparently. Which certainly echoes my
experience.

Interesting the pulling up, gain is very difficult to prove.

Roger Merriman
Yesterday, when the pedal stripped out of the crank, I pedaled a mile with on leg. Try that with flat pedals.
Wow. How did the pedal strip out of the crank?
I was just riding along and the pedal started rocking. I immediately turned around to see if I could make it back but 10 miles from home the pedal, threads and all simply pulled right out. Pedals, as you know, are "British threaded" so you only have to tighten them to "snug" so I tighten them in with an Allen Key to keep from overtightening them and pulling threads. I stopped using the large and heavy pedals wrench long ago except to pull a pedal off. But this is the first time I can remember a pedal stripping out of a crank. The only cause I can think of is that the thread diameter on the pedal was undersize and the top of the threads on the pedal were cut flat on top.

Or you under-tightened the pedal, which is the most probable explanation. It's 30-40nm torque -- which is more than "snug," which is IMO about 12-15nm like Shimano crank bolts.

-- Jay Beattie.

On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 1:06:28 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 8:07:14 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 7:52:41 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/25/2021 10:17 AM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 7:46:20 AM UTC-7, Roger Merriman wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 8:59:48 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/22/2021 10:36 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/21/2021 10:33 PM, wrote:

I somehow forgot about clipless pedals. They are a HUGE
improvement. I started with Time Equipe road pedals back
in the late 1980s, early 1990s. Same ones Lemond used.

Interestingly, the guy who set our club's record for club
mileage (11,000+ miles of club rides, not counting his
individual rides) just got a new pair of shoes for riding.
They're ordinary New Balance sneakers. He rides using toe
clips.

There are also the occasional barefoot marathon runner and
US football kicker. They are outliers.

One of our club riders mentioned that most falls on bicycles stems from
people not getting their feet out of clips rapidly enough. So he reverted
to flat pedals. Now he cannot keep up on any climbs. And people with
training can get out of pedals just as fast as he can step off of a flat
pedal since they are ready to clip out when the conditions warrant care.

Can’t say I have found any performance difference at all, I used clipless
for a few years on my first road bike, was fine, never struggled to clip in
or out or had a clip less moment but I never loved them.

Few years back bought a CX bike for hacking about the woods plus road and
put some MTB flats on, and used my MTB flat shoes, ie pedals with pins in,
plus shoes with soft tacky tread.

In short with proper flats you can’t slide the shoe but have to lift to
reposition, unlike the road flats which are frankly terrifying slippy.

I’ve done 100+ miles on them, climbed up big mountains, tackled seriously
steep climbs etc.

I’ve seen opinions dressed as science with huge gains for clipless but
proper stuff the gains is marginal, apparently. Which certainly echoes my
experience.

Interesting the pulling up, gain is very difficult to prove.

Roger Merriman
Yesterday, when the pedal stripped out of the crank, I pedaled a mile with on leg. Try that with flat pedals.
Wow. How did the pedal strip out of the crank?
I was just riding along and the pedal started rocking. I immediately turned around to see if I could make it back but 10 miles from home the pedal, threads and all simply pulled right out. Pedals, as you know, are "British threaded" so you only have to tighten them to "snug" so I tighten them in with an Allen Key to keep from overtightening them and pulling threads. I stopped using the large and heavy pedals wrench long ago except to pull a pedal off. But this is the first time I can remember a pedal stripping out of a crank. The only cause I can think of is that the thread diameter on the pedal was undersize and the top of the threads on the pedal were cut flat on top.
Or you under-tightened the pedal, which is the most probable explanation. It's 30-40nm torque -- which is more than "snug," which is IMO about 12-15nm like Shimano crank bolts.

Jay, pedals are English threaded and under force they tighten. I took these pedals and cranks on two hard climbing rides so if they weren't tight enough before they were tight enough after.

I have never had any problems with FSA cranks and Look pedals. Looking at the threads on the Rock Bros Keo substitute you can see that the threads are not badly made but I'm willing to admit that rather than the pedal it might just as well have been the material of the crank. I just measured the threaded area OD on the Rock Bros pedals and it is pretty regular 0.55" which is .0125 smaller than the 9/16 but it is the same measurement as Look pedals measured in the same manner.

On 4/25/2021 4:06 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 8:07:14 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 7:52:41 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/25/2021 10:17 AM, Tom Kunich wrote:

Yesterday, when the pedal stripped out of the crank, I pedaled a mile with on leg. Try that with flat pedals.
Wow. How did the pedal strip out of the crank?
I was just riding along and the pedal started rocking. I immediately turned around to see if I could make it back but 10 miles from home the pedal, threads and all simply pulled right out. Pedals, as you know, are "British threaded" so you only have to tighten them to "snug" so I tighten them in with an Allen Key to keep from overtightening them and pulling threads. I stopped using the large and heavy pedals wrench long ago except to pull a pedal off. But this is the first time I can remember a pedal stripping out of a crank. The only cause I can think of is that the thread diameter on the pedal was undersize and the top of the threads on the pedal were cut flat on top.

Or you under-tightened the pedal, which is the most probable explanation. It's 30-40nm torque -- which is more than "snug," which is IMO about 12-15nm like Shimano crank bolts.

Our Bikes Friday require a fair amount of disassembly to pack into their
suitcases for airline travel. That includes removing the pedals from the
cranks. The bikes came with a little wrench apparently CNC burned out of
maybe 1/8" stainless steel. One end fits the headset, the other end fits
the pedals, and it's about 6" long.

I was initially skeptical about it. I've always used a much longer pedal
wrench, but so far I've just leaned hard on the little wrench and we
haven't experienced any pedal loosening.


--
- Frank Krygowski

On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 3:57:27 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 1:06:28 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 8:07:14 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 7:52:41 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/25/2021 10:17 AM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 7:46:20 AM UTC-7, Roger Merriman wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 8:59:48 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/22/2021 10:36 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/21/2021 10:33 PM, wrote:

I somehow forgot about clipless pedals. They are a HUGE
improvement. I started with Time Equipe road pedals back
in the late 1980s, early 1990s. Same ones Lemond used.

Interestingly, the guy who set our club's record for club
mileage (11,000+ miles of club rides, not counting his
individual rides) just got a new pair of shoes for riding.
They're ordinary New Balance sneakers. He rides using toe
clips.

There are also the occasional barefoot marathon runner and
US football kicker. They are outliers.

One of our club riders mentioned that most falls on bicycles stems from
people not getting their feet out of clips rapidly enough. So he reverted
to flat pedals. Now he cannot keep up on any climbs. And people with
training can get out of pedals just as fast as he can step off of a flat
pedal since they are ready to clip out when the conditions warrant care.

Can’t say I have found any performance difference at all, I used clipless
for a few years on my first road bike, was fine, never struggled to clip in
or out or had a clip less moment but I never loved them.

Few years back bought a CX bike for hacking about the woods plus road and
put some MTB flats on, and used my MTB flat shoes, ie pedals with pins in,
plus shoes with soft tacky tread.

In short with proper flats you can’t slide the shoe but have to lift to
reposition, unlike the road flats which are frankly terrifying slippy.

I’ve done 100+ miles on them, climbed up big mountains, tackled seriously
steep climbs etc.

I’ve seen opinions dressed as science with huge gains for clipless but
proper stuff the gains is marginal, apparently. Which certainly echoes my
experience.

Interesting the pulling up, gain is very difficult to prove.

Roger Merriman
Yesterday, when the pedal stripped out of the crank, I pedaled a mile with on leg. Try that with flat pedals.
Wow. How did the pedal strip out of the crank?
I was just riding along and the pedal started rocking. I immediately turned around to see if I could make it back but 10 miles from home the pedal, threads and all simply pulled right out. Pedals, as you know, are "British threaded" so you only have to tighten them to "snug" so I tighten them in with an Allen Key to keep from overtightening them and pulling threads. I stopped using the large and heavy pedals wrench long ago except to pull a pedal off. But this is the first time I can remember a pedal stripping out of a crank. The only cause I can think of is that the thread diameter on the pedal was undersize and the top of the threads on the pedal were cut flat on top.
Or you under-tightened the pedal, which is the most probable explanation. It's 30-40nm torque -- which is more than "snug," which is IMO about 12-15nm like Shimano crank bolts.
Jay, pedals are English threaded and under force they tighten. I took these pedals and cranks on two hard climbing rides so if they weren't tight enough before they were tight enough after.

I have never had any problems with FSA cranks and Look pedals. Looking at the threads on the Rock Bros Keo substitute you can see that the threads are not badly made but I'm willing to admit that rather than the pedal it might just as well have been the material of the crank. I just measured the threaded area OD on the Rock Bros pedals and it is pretty regular 0.55" which is .0125 smaller than the 9/16 but it is the same measurement as Look pedals measured in the same manner.

Did you tighten the pedals to recommended torque? If not, it backed out because the pedals were under-torqued. If so, then you have bearing binding. The question now is if you have ruined the pedal threads and need to replace the crank.

--Jay Beattie.

On Sun, 25 Apr 2021 11:42:55 -0700, sms
wrote:

On 4/25/2021 10:23 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 25 Apr 2021 11:40:43 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

Another thread nearby discusses exactly that in the context
of clothing fashion.

Clothing, bicycles, cars, image, etc. They're all part of the fashion
culture and business.

"Pay Enough for Anything and It Passes for Taste." — Sue Grafton

A friend was having problems selling his house. He asked his realtor
if he should lower his asking price. His realtor suggested the he
raise the price instead. He did and it sold for more than asking
price. The difference was that he was now selling to a different
class of buyer, who had money and a very different set of requirements
and expectations. Something about targeted marketing.

Without this universal truth there would be no market for designer
handbags, gaudy jewelry, or $6000 bicycles.

Only $6,000?
https://www.beautifullife.info/automotive-design/most-expensive-bicycles-in-the-world/
Winner of the conspicuous consumption in cycling award is the
$1,000,0000 gold plated mountain bike. It's #1 at the bottom of the
page. Oh-oh. Looks like the link to:
https://www.thehouseofsolidgold.com
goes to a bogus site starting with "Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet". The
builder probably took the solid gold and ran.

--
Jeff Liebermann
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On 4/25/2021 1:23 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 25 Apr 2021 11:40:43 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

Another thread nearby discusses exactly that in the context
of clothing fashion.

Clothing, bicycles, cars, image, etc. They're all part of the fashion
culture and business.

One does not drive a car. One wears a car like a suit of cloths. Try
being seen in a car that doesn't match your station in life. If I
slob like me buys a high end car, I'll be labeled pretentious.
Similarly, a wealthy person driving around in a rolling wreck will
make people wonder if there is a financial problem.

Same with bicycles. People don't ride bicycles. They wear them. As
a minimum, the color scheme has to match their lifestyle and attitude.
Red - Fast and furious.
Black - Stealth and sneaky.
Blue - Likes to gaze at the sky or water while riding.
Forest green - Ecology fan.
Dull green or camo - Military look.
White - Blank slate and shopping for an image to adopt.
Bianchi celeste - Like to make others vomit.
Multicolor - Indecisive.

Interesting! I ride three different blue bikes. My touring bike is
poorly named "Anthracite" actually a very dark sparkly green (but it
needs a respray). The (main) folding bike is black. The three speed is
orange.

But most of those colors came by accident - assuming there is such a
thing as an accident in this world. We ordered a green tandem. Jim
Bradford delivered a blue one.

Seen any brown color bicycle frames?
https://www.google.com/search?q=brown+color+bicycles+-saddle&tbm=isch
There are a few, very few.

Hah! My first "good" bike which was my recreation, racing, touring,
commuting, utility bike was brown, again by accident. (I got it by
trade.) It was sort of a root beer color.

When I added some custom braze-on features and had it painted, it became
blue.


--
- Frank Krygowski

On Sun, 25 Apr 2021 14:49:14 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

Never thought much about it but you make a very good point.

I painted a British ladies' three speed for my mother in
1974 'Hot Cocoa Brown' about this shade:

https://www.sprouts.com/wp-content/u...ot-Cocoa-1.jpg

She liked it but no one else did. Which was fine.

p.s. IIRC, Brownshirts were more khaki than cocoa, yes?

I don't know. That was before I was born. Also, all the videos are
in black and white.

The brown shirts were the SA:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sturmabteilung
The official uniform of the SA was the brown
shirt with a brown tie. The color came about
because a large shipment of Lettow-shirts,
originally intended for the German colonial
troops in Germany's former East Africa colony,[2]
was purchased in 1921 by Gerhard Roßbach for
use by his Freikorps paramilitary unit.

... there were "large numbers of Communists
and Social Democrats" and that "many of the
storm troops were called 'beefsteaks' - brown
outside and red within."

Well, that ruins romantic notions of careful planning and color
selection.

75 years and at least 2 generations after WWII, direct association of
flat-brown with the 1930's SA troops by todays buyers is unlikely.
However, the companies and institutions founded immediately after WWII
certainly did associate the brown color with the brown shirts. Those
that are still around today maintain the tradition of avoiding
flat-brown anything even though they probably don't understand why.

"These Are the Paint Colors Experts Say to Never Use in Your Home"
https://bestlifeonline.com/worst-paint-colors/
"Sam Whittaker, home design expert and editor
at The Golden, says you should never paint your
home's exterior brown, which he says is a color
that gives off an "extremely boring and dull vibe."
Not only that, but Whittaker says that in the
future, this will also lower your home's value
and make it harder to sell the property."

Oddly, the most popular color for the local mountain houses is a brown
paint that resembles local redwood tree bark. It's more an attempt at
camouflage than a political statement. Fortunately, bleaching by the
sun and darkening by mold, mildew, and fungus, provide sufficient
discoloration to avoid flat-brown. Here's my house about 20 years
ago:
http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/home/BL-house1.jpg
Yep, boring and dull looking. One of the neighbors painted their
house glossy candy apple red. Then, they sold it. The first thing
the new buyers did was paint it brown with forest green trim.


--
Jeff Liebermann
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On 4/25/2021 9:22 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 3:57:27 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 1:06:28 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 8:07:14 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 7:52:41 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/25/2021 10:17 AM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 7:46:20 AM UTC-7, Roger Merriman wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 8:59:48 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/22/2021 10:36 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/21/2021 10:33 PM, wrote:

I somehow forgot about clipless pedals. They are a HUGE
improvement. I started with Time Equipe road pedals back
in the late 1980s, early 1990s. Same ones Lemond used.

Interestingly, the guy who set our club's record for club
mileage (11,000+ miles of club rides, not counting his
individual rides) just got a new pair of shoes for riding.
They're ordinary New Balance sneakers. He rides using toe
clips.

There are also the occasional barefoot marathon runner and
US football kicker. They are outliers.

One of our club riders mentioned that most falls on bicycles stems from
people not getting their feet out of clips rapidly enough. So he reverted
to flat pedals. Now he cannot keep up on any climbs. And people with
training can get out of pedals just as fast as he can step off of a flat
pedal since they are ready to clip out when the conditions warrant care.

Can’t say I have found any performance difference at all, I used clipless
for a few years on my first road bike, was fine, never struggled to clip in
or out or had a clip less moment but I never loved them.

Few years back bought a CX bike for hacking about the woods plus road and
put some MTB flats on, and used my MTB flat shoes, ie pedals with pins in,
plus shoes with soft tacky tread.

In short with proper flats you can’t slide the shoe but have to lift to
reposition, unlike the road flats which are frankly terrifying slippy.

I’ve done 100+ miles on them, climbed up big mountains, tackled seriously
steep climbs etc.

I’ve seen opinions dressed as science with huge gains for clipless but
proper stuff the gains is marginal, apparently. Which certainly echoes my
experience.

Interesting the pulling up, gain is very difficult to prove.

Roger Merriman
Yesterday, when the pedal stripped out of the crank, I pedaled a mile with on leg. Try that with flat pedals.
Wow. How did the pedal strip out of the crank?
I was just riding along and the pedal started rocking. I immediately turned around to see if I could make it back but 10 miles from home the pedal, threads and all simply pulled right out. Pedals, as you know, are "British threaded" so you only have to tighten them to "snug" so I tighten them in with an Allen Key to keep from overtightening them and pulling threads. I stopped using the large and heavy pedals wrench long ago except to pull a pedal off. But this is the first time I can remember a pedal stripping out of a crank. The only cause I can think of is that the thread diameter on the pedal was undersize and the top of the threads on the pedal were cut flat on top.
Or you under-tightened the pedal, which is the most probable explanation. It's 30-40nm torque -- which is more than "snug," which is IMO about 12-15nm like Shimano crank bolts.
Jay, pedals are English threaded and under force they tighten. I took these pedals and cranks on two hard climbing rides so if they weren't tight enough before they were tight enough after.

I have never had any problems with FSA cranks and Look pedals. Looking at the threads on the Rock Bros Keo substitute you can see that the threads are not badly made but I'm willing to admit that rather than the pedal it might just as well have been the material of the crank. I just measured the threaded area OD on the Rock Bros pedals and it is pretty regular 0.55" which is .0125 smaller than the 9/16 but it is the same measurement as Look pedals measured in the same manner.

Did you tighten the pedals to recommended torque? If not, it backed out because the pedals were under-torqued. If so, then you have bearing binding. The question now is if you have ruined the pedal threads and need to replace the crank.

Can't those be Helicoiled?


--
- Frank Krygowski

On Sun, 25 Apr 2021 20:09:21 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

Our Bikes Friday require a fair amount of disassembly to pack into their
suitcases for airline travel. That includes removing the pedals from the
cranks.

Think about installing folding pedals:
http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/bicycles/Sunlite%2067302%20folding%20pedals/index.html
Not the best, not very strong, quite cheap, and doesn't require tools
to fold down. More of the same:
https://www.google.com/search?q=folding+bicycle+pedals&tbm=isch
There are also removable pedals:
https://www.google.com/search?q=removable+bicycle+pedals&tbm=isch
For example:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000017581531.html



--
Jeff Liebermann
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On 4/25/2021 6:22 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 3:57:27 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 1:06:28 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 8:07:14 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 7:52:41 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/25/2021 10:17 AM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 7:46:20 AM UTC-7, Roger Merriman wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 8:59:48 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/22/2021 10:36 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/21/2021 10:33 PM, wrote:

I somehow forgot about clipless pedals. They are a HUGE
improvement. I started with Time Equipe road pedals back
in the late 1980s, early 1990s. Same ones Lemond used.

Interestingly, the guy who set our club's record for club
mileage (11,000+ miles of club rides, not counting his
individual rides) just got a new pair of shoes for riding.
They're ordinary New Balance sneakers. He rides using toe
clips.

There are also the occasional barefoot marathon runner and
US football kicker. They are outliers.

One of our club riders mentioned that most falls on bicycles stems from
people not getting their feet out of clips rapidly enough. So he reverted
to flat pedals. Now he cannot keep up on any climbs. And people with
training can get out of pedals just as fast as he can step off of a flat
pedal since they are ready to clip out when the conditions warrant care.

Can’t say I have found any performance difference at all, I used clipless
for a few years on my first road bike, was fine, never struggled to clip in
or out or had a clip less moment but I never loved them.

Few years back bought a CX bike for hacking about the woods plus road and
put some MTB flats on, and used my MTB flat shoes, ie pedals with pins in,
plus shoes with soft tacky tread.

In short with proper flats you can’t slide the shoe but have to lift to
reposition, unlike the road flats which are frankly terrifying slippy.

I’ve done 100+ miles on them, climbed up big mountains, tackled seriously
steep climbs etc.

I’ve seen opinions dressed as science with huge gains for clipless but
proper stuff the gains is marginal, apparently. Which certainly echoes my
experience.

Interesting the pulling up, gain is very difficult to prove.

Roger Merriman
Yesterday, when the pedal stripped out of the crank, I pedaled a mile with on leg. Try that with flat pedals.
Wow. How did the pedal strip out of the crank?
I was just riding along and the pedal started rocking. I immediately turned around to see if I could make it back but 10 miles from home the pedal, threads and all simply pulled right out. Pedals, as you know, are "British threaded" so you only have to tighten them to "snug" so I tighten them in with an Allen Key to keep from overtightening them and pulling threads. I stopped using the large and heavy pedals wrench long ago except to pull a pedal off. But this is the first time I can remember a pedal stripping out of a crank. The only cause I can think of is that the thread diameter on the pedal was undersize and the top of the threads on the pedal were cut flat on top.
Or you under-tightened the pedal, which is the most probable explanation. It's 30-40nm torque -- which is more than "snug," which is IMO about 12-15nm like Shimano crank bolts.
Jay, pedals are English threaded and under force they tighten. I took these pedals and cranks on two hard climbing rides so if they weren't tight enough before they were tight enough after.

I have never had any problems with FSA cranks and Look pedals. Looking at the threads on the Rock Bros Keo substitute you can see that the threads are not badly made but I'm willing to admit that rather than the pedal it might just as well have been the material of the crank. I just measured the threaded area OD on the Rock Bros pedals and it is pretty regular 0.55" which is .0125 smaller than the 9/16 but it is the same measurement as Look pedals measured in the same manner.

Did you tighten the pedals to recommended torque? If not, it backed out because the pedals were under-torqued. If so, then you have bearing binding. The question now is if you have ruined the pedal threads and need to replace the crank.

--Jay Beattie.

You remind me of a fond bike-wrenching memory:

In college I worked a few stints at a local shop, mostly assembling new
bikes for the Christmas rush (a thing that used to happen in the bike
biz, but does no longer, I'm told).

One day a Prof from my school came in with his three-speed, maybe a
Raleigh. I recognized him, though he didn't know me. His sadness was
palpable as he held a detached pedal in his hand. "I think I broke it,
is there anything you can do? Can it be repaired?"

The steel crank threads were rough, maybe damaged by the pedal coming
out, so you couldn't screw the pedal back in by hand.

I ran a pedal tap through the crank arm, probably in from the back side;
put a bit of oil on the pedal threads, in it went, and I tightened it
thoroughly. I'm sure I checked that it was spinning freely.

You would have thought I had parted the Red Sea. He was so delighted,
and he made me feel like a wizard. I don't know what the boss charged
him - I was just a temp wrench and prices were above my pay grade - but
he came back after paying and stuffed a five dollar bill in my shirt
pocket, which was a fair bit of money back then.

Mark J.