A warning on pipe-cutters

Ken - just to check before you dump your frame - you did put a wheel in
it when you were trying to take the post out didn't you? Even a 29"
wheel Gives you a much bigger leverage to twist against the frame than
just a person grabbing it and twisting it as hard as they can. I spent
ages wrestling with my old frame and it came off in no time once I
managed to get decent leverage on it by bunging a wheel in (and a seat
on - I didn't have a vice to hold the seatpost in).

Also, the only time I had to do this, it wasn't the pipe cutter that
was at fault, it was that the seat tube itself was slightly narrower
towards the bottom, and I put the post in too deep. I take it that
couldn't be the problem here?

Joe


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joemarshall

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I've done it again.

I don't believe it

There must be something to be said about repeating your
mistakes.....stupidity?

This time I had a seatpost that had been cut by a pipe cutter over a
year ago, it had been filed down well and seemed to work fine on my
Triton frame. It was a bit of a snug fit in the KH36 frame, but slid in
ok.

Now it won't come out.

That's the second KH36" frame I've killed in 3months

I also have a suspicion the bottom of the KH36" frame's seat-tube is
narrower than at the top.


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GizmoDuck

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I don't know what to say other than I hope you have better luck getting
this one out.


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saskatchewanian
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if you have problems to get the seatpost out, just try the other way.
remove the wheel, press the seatpost through the frame as far as
possible, cut the upper end of the seatpost with a saw and press / pull
the seat post through the frame - that will save it.

jogi


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jogi

municycling anarchist
26" K1 Track Monster
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zitat smilymarco:
Es ist Knut, der kann das. Knut ist ein Tier!
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jogi;1169235 wrote:
if you have problems to get the seatpost out, just try the other way.
remove the wheel, press the seatpost through the frame as far as
possible, cut the upper end of the seatpost with a saw and press / pull
the seat post through the frame - that will save it.

jogi



The KH36 frame is closed at the bottom.

That is unlucky Ken, take it to your LBS and see if they have any
ideas.


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siafirede;1169303 wrote:
The KH36 frame is closed at the bottom.

That is unlucky Ken, take it to your LBS and see if they have any
ideas.



That's what I'll do first thing tomorrow. I didn't want to wiggle it
anymore because experience tells me that it will gouge the seatpost into
the frame even more.

I'm absolutely certain that the KH36" seat-tubes flare inwards at the
lower end. This seatpost worked fine on my Triton 29" seat-tube.


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GizmoDuck

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i dont now 100 % how the seattube is made on the new kris holm frames
only have seen some on unicon

but it could be narrower at the end from welding althought that should
be checkt


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eenwieler-sander
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This is silly. Really. Next time, before you insert the seatpost, put it
on a flat table an look at it. You will easily be able to tell if it's
flared. If it is, file it until it is not. Even better, measure your
seatpost with a calipers. If you are finding the seattube is any less
than 0.0005" (~0.015mm) over the diameter of the seatpost, either file
it to within tolerance or get a new post. If the seatube is more than
0.0025" over the diameter of the seatpost, your seatpost or seattube is
out of tolerance and needs replacing. And don't forget grease or
anti-seize when you insert the post!

If the frame is in fact shrinking at the bottom of the tube due to weld
warpage, take it to a bike shop or a machine shop and have them ream it
to size. It takes 5 minutes, and they shouldn't charge you.

If you are desperate, any machinist (or pseudo-machinist, like myself)
should be able to get it out easily, with no damage to the frame. It
would take like 5 minutes to weld on a nut, attach a slide hammer, and
be done with the job.

Also, have you ever thought about NOT inserting the post with enough
force to get it stuck? As in, don't take your post and DROP it in. This
is how stuff gets messed up (the amount of force applied in any
"hammer-like" motion is incredible). When you are dealing with close
fitting parts, you should always interface them slowly and in a
controlled fashion, so as to avoid the exact situation you're in. This
isn't nearly as difficult as people make it out to be.

Also, a word of warning. An LBS is not the be-all and end all of
advice. I would much sooner go to a good machine shop than a bike shop
for things like this. Not many LBS mechanics even know what a slide
hammer is. Which reminds me, a cheater's slide hammer, which might work
(MAYBE) is to attach an old seatbase to the seat. Attach a 1-2lb chunk
of metal to the base with about 18" of strong wire between them. Hold
the frame or wheel gently in a vise. And use the 18" of slack in the
wire to yank with the metal weight. You now have an improvised "pull" or
slide hammer. This works far better with a real slide hammer, which uses
a donut shaped weight on a metal rod.


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gerblefranklin;1169577 wrote:


Also, have you ever thought about NOT inserting the post with enough
force to get it stuck? As in, don't take your post and DROP it in. This
is how stuff gets messed up (the amount of force applied in any
"hammer-like" motion is incredible). When you are dealing with close
fitting parts, you should always interface them slowly and in a
controlled fashion, so as to avoid the exact situation you're in. This
isn't nearly as difficult as people make it out to be.




I haven't used a lot of force to get it in (either time). Like I said,
I think the frame is narrower at the bottom. And the seatpost in
question works just fine on my Triton frame.


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The Induni Unicycle Tour 2009. Unicycle Tour of India. Email me for
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Always use grease when inserting a metal part into another metal part.


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tholub
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