Diamondback MTB rebuild...

Hi all,

friend of mine was given a "free" bike and asked me if it was worth salvaging... still not sure yet but here goes.

Needs new bottom bracket and probably crankset as it looks like the gears are permanently welded to the spiders (Shimano stuff, assume low end?), and they've been mangled a little by bad shifting. Obviously chain as well and possibly cassette too.

I can't get anything apart yet as it's been sitting outside (so a bunch of stuff is soaking in penetrating oil) and also I need a few tools that I don't have to really tear into it.

does anyone know how I can determine the BB size without disassembly? I couldn't find an email link on Diamondback's web site. It is a Diamondback Response, year unknown. I haven't even got the cranks off yet as it looks like I need to find a temporary bolt to thread into the spindle to pull the arms off and I don't have anything in my stash that thread. It's a standard square taper, I can tell that much.

Does anyone know what tool I need to remove the BB? I can't try the few that I have as I don't have the crank arms off yet.

Also needs new shifters and cables. Condition of hubs unknown but they definitely need at least new balls/repack; they feel awful.

Finally is it possible that 7mm bolts were used in some places? I took the handlebars off and find that the 6mm bolts in my parts bin don't thread into the stem. however the original very rusty ones thread in fine and probably will be reused at least temporarily until I can source some new hardware.

Additionally I pulled the seatpost just to make sure it was free (because that would be a deal killer) the seat angle adjuster I don't have a single allen wrench that will fit it, is it possible it is 5.5mm?

I'm not a MTB guy but I'm kind of trying to save this one because a) it's a lot lighter than most MTBs being non-suspended and I think she's more looking for something for road and light trail riding; also she is very short so finding something "better" that fits her will be hard.

So do you think I can resurrect this for less than $200 or so? Then, is it worth it?

On 7/5/2015 12:37 PM, N8N wrote:
Hi all,

friend of mine was given a "free" bike and asked me if it was worth salvaging... still not sure yet but here goes.

Needs new bottom bracket and probably crankset as it looks like the gears are permanently welded to the spiders (Shimano stuff, assume low end?), and they've been mangled a little by bad shifting. Obviously chain as well and possibly cassette too.

I can't get anything apart yet as it's been sitting outside (so a bunch of stuff is soaking in penetrating oil) and also I need a few tools that I don't have to really tear into it.

does anyone know how I can determine the BB size without disassembly? I couldn't find an email link on Diamondback's web site. It is a Diamondback Response, year unknown. I haven't even got the cranks off yet as it looks like I need to find a temporary bolt to thread into the spindle to pull the arms off and I don't have anything in my stash that thread. It's a standard square taper, I can tell that much.

Does anyone know what tool I need to remove the BB? I can't try the few that I have as I don't have the crank arms off yet.

Also needs new shifters and cables. Condition of hubs unknown but they definitely need at least new balls/repack; they feel awful.

Finally is it possible that 7mm bolts were used in some places? I took the handlebars off and find that the 6mm bolts in my parts bin don't thread into the stem. however the original very rusty ones thread in fine and probably will be reused at least temporarily until I can source some new hardware.

Additionally I pulled the seatpost just to make sure it was free (because that would be a deal killer) the seat angle adjuster I don't have a single allen wrench that will fit it, is it possible it is 5.5mm?

I'm not a MTB guy but I'm kind of trying to save this one because a) it's a lot lighter than most MTBs being non-suspended and I think she's more looking for something for road and light trail riding; also she is very short so finding something "better" that fits her will be hard.

So do you think I can resurrect this for less than $200 or so? Then, is it worth it?


Check inside the left crank arm for a Shimano product number
(FC-dash-whatever) and possible two-letter date code (left
side is the clean side!). Then you'll know exactly what it
is and about which year. Just because the rings are pressed
to the arm doesn't make it unrideable. Unless broken, you
can ride it and evaluate all the rest before changing to a
better crank set.

typical 22mm crank remover about $10. (& up):
http://velobase.com/ViewTool.aspx?ID...efd5&AbsPos=19

Diamond Back BB shell is BSC, very standard stuff. Depending
on its age and quality, may be a Shimano 'sealed' unit or a
loose-ball model. At any rate, don't rebuild it if you're
replacing the crank. Get the correct matching
spindle/bearing assembly for the new crank.

Yes there are stems with 7mm thread faceplate bolts.
Annoying aren't they?

Your seat attaching bolt is likely just damaged. Remove post
and have a good look in a strong light. New bolt is m8x1.25
cheap at any hardware supplier. Lubricate thread for best
results. In many households the only allen tool is the
dejammer key under the garbage disposal. Those don't quite
fit, which doesn't stop people from trying.

Lastly, rusted/kinked cables can make you think it also
needs shifters. It may not.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

a rebuild on a '78 Raleigh with wheels and 700c tires cost uh uh $500, prob more I have that on another HD....Deore...good middle range parts.

I hear no one raving abt Diamondbacks even tho the D's hae ahd a good rep generally all we here is STUMPJUMPER STUMPERJUMPER.

Free equals plus parts and a comparison to what's on Craig's List as a reality check.

You could come up with a whiz bang 2008 California Special for 500

The SF lugged frame shop was selling Raleigh Replicas for 2000 up depending on groupo and your attitude

On Sunday, July 5, 2015 at 2:27:07 PM UTC-4, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/5/2015 12:37 PM, N8N wrote:
Hi all,

friend of mine was given a "free" bike and asked me if it was worth salvaging... still not sure yet but here goes.

Needs new bottom bracket and probably crankset as it looks like the gears are permanently welded to the spiders (Shimano stuff, assume low end?), and they've been mangled a little by bad shifting. Obviously chain as well and possibly cassette too.

I can't get anything apart yet as it's been sitting outside (so a bunch of stuff is soaking in penetrating oil) and also I need a few tools that I don't have to really tear into it.

does anyone know how I can determine the BB size without disassembly? I couldn't find an email link on Diamondback's web site. It is a Diamondback Response, year unknown. I haven't even got the cranks off yet as it looks like I need to find a temporary bolt to thread into the spindle to pull the arms off and I don't have anything in my stash that thread. It's a standard square taper, I can tell that much.

Does anyone know what tool I need to remove the BB? I can't try the few that I have as I don't have the crank arms off yet.

Also needs new shifters and cables. Condition of hubs unknown but they definitely need at least new balls/repack; they feel awful.

Finally is it possible that 7mm bolts were used in some places? I took the handlebars off and find that the 6mm bolts in my parts bin don't thread into the stem. however the original very rusty ones thread in fine and probably will be reused at least temporarily until I can source some new hardware.

Additionally I pulled the seatpost just to make sure it was free (because that would be a deal killer) the seat angle adjuster I don't have a single allen wrench that will fit it, is it possible it is 5.5mm?

I'm not a MTB guy but I'm kind of trying to save this one because a) it's a lot lighter than most MTBs being non-suspended and I think she's more looking for something for road and light trail riding; also she is very short so finding something "better" that fits her will be hard.

So do you think I can resurrect this for less than $200 or so? Then, is it worth it?


Check inside the left crank arm for a Shimano product number
(FC-dash-whatever) and possible two-letter date code (left
side is the clean side!). Then you'll know exactly what it
is and about which year. Just because the rings are pressed
to the arm doesn't make it unrideable. Unless broken, you
can ride it and evaluate all the rest before changing to a
better crank set.

typical 22mm crank remover about $10. (& up):
http://velobase.com/ViewTool.aspx?ID...efd5&AbsPos=19

Diamond Back BB shell is BSC, very standard stuff. Depending
on its age and quality, may be a Shimano 'sealed' unit or a
loose-ball model. At any rate, don't rebuild it if you're
replacing the crank. Get the correct matching
spindle/bearing assembly for the new crank.

Yes there are stems with 7mm thread faceplate bolts.
Annoying aren't they?

Your seat attaching bolt is likely just damaged. Remove post
and have a good look in a strong light. New bolt is m8x1.25
cheap at any hardware supplier. Lubricate thread for best
results. In many households the only allen tool is the
dejammer key under the garbage disposal. Those don't quite
fit, which doesn't stop people from trying.

Lastly, rusted/kinked cables can make you think it also
needs shifters. It may not.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

No it definitely needs shifters. The right one is missing pieces and only shifts one way. I think they are Alivio (sp?) integrated shifters/brake levers. Recommend for replacement?

Am thinking that I might just get a whole new wheelset, upgrade to 9-speed (it's currently 7 speed which seems to be kind of unsupported) because rear wheel has a big dent in it now that I spin it and the front hub is crunchy, also both chainrings and cassette look like they have a LOT of wear on them. I'm seeing Sun/Shimano Deore wheelsets for a little over $100 so this doesn't seem like madness.

The biggest question at this moment is what BB to order, would like to stay with square taper, with a new crankset with removeable rings. Am guessing should get Shimano BB-UN55 but don't know what length, or does that depend more on what the new crankset is rather than what the bike frame is?

Now that I look at it it looks like old BB is Shimano meaning that that is likely the tool I need. Which I don't have because my one bike is ISIS and the other still has the original loose ball thing. Yay buying more tools!

nate

On Sunday, July 5, 2015 at 2:57:49 PM UTC-4, N8N wrote:
On Sunday, July 5, 2015 at 2:27:07 PM UTC-4, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/5/2015 12:37 PM, N8N wrote:
Hi all,

friend of mine was given a "free" bike and asked me if it was worth salvaging... still not sure yet but here goes.

Needs new bottom bracket and probably crankset as it looks like the gears are permanently welded to the spiders (Shimano stuff, assume low end?), and they've been mangled a little by bad shifting. Obviously chain as well and possibly cassette too.

I can't get anything apart yet as it's been sitting outside (so a bunch of stuff is soaking in penetrating oil) and also I need a few tools that I don't have to really tear into it.

does anyone know how I can determine the BB size without disassembly? I couldn't find an email link on Diamondback's web site. It is a Diamondback Response, year unknown. I haven't even got the cranks off yet as it looks like I need to find a temporary bolt to thread into the spindle to pull the arms off and I don't have anything in my stash that thread. It's a standard square taper, I can tell that much.

Does anyone know what tool I need to remove the BB? I can't try the few that I have as I don't have the crank arms off yet.

Also needs new shifters and cables. Condition of hubs unknown but they definitely need at least new balls/repack; they feel awful.

Finally is it possible that 7mm bolts were used in some places? I took the handlebars off and find that the 6mm bolts in my parts bin don't thread into the stem. however the original very rusty ones thread in fine and probably will be reused at least temporarily until I can source some new hardware.

Additionally I pulled the seatpost just to make sure it was free (because that would be a deal killer) the seat angle adjuster I don't have a single allen wrench that will fit it, is it possible it is 5.5mm?

I'm not a MTB guy but I'm kind of trying to save this one because a) it's a lot lighter than most MTBs being non-suspended and I think she's more looking for something for road and light trail riding; also she is very short so finding something "better" that fits her will be hard.

So do you think I can resurrect this for less than $200 or so? Then, is it worth it?


Check inside the left crank arm for a Shimano product number
(FC-dash-whatever) and possible two-letter date code (left
side is the clean side!). Then you'll know exactly what it
is and about which year. Just because the rings are pressed
to the arm doesn't make it unrideable. Unless broken, you
can ride it and evaluate all the rest before changing to a
better crank set.

typical 22mm crank remover about $10. (& up):
http://velobase.com/ViewTool.aspx?ID...efd5&AbsPos=19

Diamond Back BB shell is BSC, very standard stuff. Depending
on its age and quality, may be a Shimano 'sealed' unit or a
loose-ball model. At any rate, don't rebuild it if you're
replacing the crank. Get the correct matching
spindle/bearing assembly for the new crank.

Yes there are stems with 7mm thread faceplate bolts.
Annoying aren't they?

Your seat attaching bolt is likely just damaged. Remove post
and have a good look in a strong light. New bolt is m8x1.25
cheap at any hardware supplier. Lubricate thread for best
results. In many households the only allen tool is the
dejammer key under the garbage disposal. Those don't quite
fit, which doesn't stop people from trying.

Lastly, rusted/kinked cables can make you think it also
needs shifters. It may not.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

No it definitely needs shifters. The right one is missing pieces and only shifts one way. I think they are Alivio (sp?) integrated shifters/brake levers. Recommend for replacement?

Am thinking that I might just get a whole new wheelset, upgrade to 9-speed (it's currently 7 speed which seems to be kind of unsupported) because rear wheel has a big dent in it now that I spin it and the front hub is crunchy, also both chainrings and cassette look like they have a LOT of wear on them. I'm seeing Sun/Shimano Deore wheelsets for a little over $100 so this doesn't seem like madness.

The biggest question at this moment is what BB to order, would like to stay with square taper, with a new crankset with removeable rings. Am guessing should get Shimano BB-UN55 but don't know what length, or does that depend more on what the new crankset is rather than what the bike frame is?

Now that I look at it it looks like old BB is Shimano meaning that that is likely the tool I need. Which I don't have because my one bike is ISIS and the other still has the original loose ball thing. Yay buying more tools!

nate

Also, is Park BBT-22 the correct tool to remove the old square taper BB? Assuming of course that I can actually get the cranks off. Got my crank puller rigged up on there now with lots of pressure on it, I keep going downstairs and tapping on it every now and then, but it hasn't busted loose yet.

nate

On Sunday, July 5, 2015 at 2:57:49 PM UTC-4, N8N wrote:
On Sunday, July 5, 2015 at 2:27:07 PM UTC-4, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/5/2015 12:37 PM, N8N wrote:
Hi all,

friend of mine was given a "free" bike and asked me if it was worth salvaging... still not sure yet but here goes.

Needs new bottom bracket and probably crankset as it looks like the gears are permanently welded to the spiders (Shimano stuff, assume low end?), and they've been mangled a little by bad shifting. Obviously chain as well and possibly cassette too.

I can't get anything apart yet as it's been sitting outside (so a bunch of stuff is soaking in penetrating oil) and also I need a few tools that I don't have to really tear into it.

does anyone know how I can determine the BB size without disassembly? I couldn't find an email link on Diamondback's web site. It is a Diamondback Response, year unknown. I haven't even got the cranks off yet as it looks like I need to find a temporary bolt to thread into the spindle to pull the arms off and I don't have anything in my stash that thread. It's a standard square taper, I can tell that much.

Does anyone know what tool I need to remove the BB? I can't try the few that I have as I don't have the crank arms off yet.

Also needs new shifters and cables. Condition of hubs unknown but they definitely need at least new balls/repack; they feel awful.

Finally is it possible that 7mm bolts were used in some places? I took the handlebars off and find that the 6mm bolts in my parts bin don't thread into the stem. however the original very rusty ones thread in fine and probably will be reused at least temporarily until I can source some new hardware.

Additionally I pulled the seatpost just to make sure it was free (because that would be a deal killer) the seat angle adjuster I don't have a single allen wrench that will fit it, is it possible it is 5.5mm?

I'm not a MTB guy but I'm kind of trying to save this one because a) it's a lot lighter than most MTBs being non-suspended and I think she's more looking for something for road and light trail riding; also she is very short so finding something "better" that fits her will be hard.

So do you think I can resurrect this for less than $200 or so? Then, is it worth it?


Check inside the left crank arm for a Shimano product number
(FC-dash-whatever) and possible two-letter date code (left
side is the clean side!). Then you'll know exactly what it
is and about which year. Just because the rings are pressed
to the arm doesn't make it unrideable. Unless broken, you
can ride it and evaluate all the rest before changing to a
better crank set.

typical 22mm crank remover about $10. (& up):
http://velobase.com/ViewTool.aspx?ID...efd5&AbsPos=19

Diamond Back BB shell is BSC, very standard stuff. Depending
on its age and quality, may be a Shimano 'sealed' unit or a
loose-ball model. At any rate, don't rebuild it if you're
replacing the crank. Get the correct matching
spindle/bearing assembly for the new crank.

Yes there are stems with 7mm thread faceplate bolts.
Annoying aren't they?

Your seat attaching bolt is likely just damaged. Remove post
and have a good look in a strong light. New bolt is m8x1.25
cheap at any hardware supplier. Lubricate thread for best
results. In many households the only allen tool is the
dejammer key under the garbage disposal. Those don't quite
fit, which doesn't stop people from trying.

Lastly, rusted/kinked cables can make you think it also
needs shifters. It may not.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

No it definitely needs shifters. The right one is missing pieces and only shifts one way. I think they are Alivio (sp?) integrated shifters/brake levers. Recommend for replacement?

Am thinking that I might just get a whole new wheelset, upgrade to 9-speed (it's currently 7 speed which seems to be kind of unsupported) because rear wheel has a big dent in it now that I spin it and the front hub is crunchy, also both chainrings and cassette look like they have a LOT of wear on them. I'm seeing Sun/Shimano Deore wheelsets for a little over $100 so this doesn't seem like madness.

The biggest question at this moment is what BB to order, would like to stay with square taper, with a new crankset with removeable rings. Am guessing should get Shimano BB-UN55 but don't know what length, or does that depend more on what the new crankset is rather than what the bike frame is?

Now that I look at it it looks like old BB is Shimano meaning that that is likely the tool I need. Which I don't have because my one bike is ISIS and the other still has the original loose ball thing. Yay buying more tools!

nate

7 speed stuff is still available and is a lot less $ than most 9 speed stuff. A 9 speed rear wheel will need to have the rear triangle widened to fit it and also the dropouts realigned.

Sounds to me like you're thinking about getting into a fairly expensive rebuild that might cost as much or more than a new bicycle.

Cheers

On 7/5/2015 1:57 PM, N8N wrote:
On Sunday, July 5, 2015 at 2:27:07 PM UTC-4, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/5/2015 12:37 PM, N8N wrote:
Hi all,

friend of mine was given a "free" bike and asked me if it was worth salvaging... still not sure yet but here goes.

Needs new bottom bracket and probably crankset as it looks like the gears are permanently welded to the spiders (Shimano stuff, assume low end?), and they've been mangled a little by bad shifting. Obviously chain as well and possibly cassette too.

I can't get anything apart yet as it's been sitting outside (so a bunch of stuff is soaking in penetrating oil) and also I need a few tools that I don't have to really tear into it.

does anyone know how I can determine the BB size without disassembly? I couldn't find an email link on Diamondback's web site. It is a Diamondback Response, year unknown. I haven't even got the cranks off yet as it looks like I need to find a temporary bolt to thread into the spindle to pull the arms off and I don't have anything in my stash that thread. It's a standard square taper, I can tell that much.

Does anyone know what tool I need to remove the BB? I can't try the few that I have as I don't have the crank arms off yet.

Also needs new shifters and cables. Condition of hubs unknown but they definitely need at least new balls/repack; they feel awful.

Finally is it possible that 7mm bolts were used in some places? I took the handlebars off and find that the 6mm bolts in my parts bin don't thread into the stem. however the original very rusty ones thread in fine and probably will be reused at least temporarily until I can source some new hardware.

Additionally I pulled the seatpost just to make sure it was free (because that would be a deal killer) the seat angle adjuster I don't have a single allen wrench that will fit it, is it possible it is 5.5mm?

I'm not a MTB guy but I'm kind of trying to save this one because a) it's a lot lighter than most MTBs being non-suspended and I think she's more looking for something for road and light trail riding; also she is very short so finding something "better" that fits her will be hard.

So do you think I can resurrect this for less than $200 or so? Then, is it worth it?


Check inside the left crank arm for a Shimano product number
(FC-dash-whatever) and possible two-letter date code (left
side is the clean side!). Then you'll know exactly what it
is and about which year. Just because the rings are pressed
to the arm doesn't make it unrideable. Unless broken, you
can ride it and evaluate all the rest before changing to a
better crank set.

typical 22mm crank remover about $10. (& up):
http://velobase.com/ViewTool.aspx?ID...efd5&AbsPos=19

Diamond Back BB shell is BSC, very standard stuff. Depending
on its age and quality, may be a Shimano 'sealed' unit or a
loose-ball model. At any rate, don't rebuild it if you're
replacing the crank. Get the correct matching
spindle/bearing assembly for the new crank.

Yes there are stems with 7mm thread faceplate bolts.
Annoying aren't they?

Your seat attaching bolt is likely just damaged. Remove post
and have a good look in a strong light. New bolt is m8x1.25
cheap at any hardware supplier. Lubricate thread for best
results. In many households the only allen tool is the
dejammer key under the garbage disposal. Those don't quite
fit, which doesn't stop people from trying.

Lastly, rusted/kinked cables can make you think it also
needs shifters. It may not.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

No it definitely needs shifters. The right one is missing pieces and only shifts one way. I think they are Alivio (sp?) integrated shifters/brake levers. Recommend for replacement?

Am thinking that I might just get a whole new wheelset, upgrade to 9-speed (it's currently 7 speed which seems to be kind of unsupported) because rear wheel has a big dent in it now that I spin it and the front hub is crunchy, also both chainrings and cassette look like they have a LOT of wear on them. I'm seeing Sun/Shimano Deore wheelsets for a little over $100 so this doesn't seem like madness.

The biggest question at this moment is what BB to order, would like to stay with square taper, with a new crankset with removeable rings. Am guessing should get Shimano BB-UN55 but don't know what length, or does that depend more on what the new crankset is rather than what the bike frame is?

Now that I look at it it looks like old BB is Shimano meaning that that is likely the tool I need. Which I don't have because my one bike is ISIS and the other still has the original loose ball thing. Yay buying more tools!

nate


Bear in mind that a brand new shiny basic name-brand MTB is
a little past $300 nowadays. Assembled. With a warranty.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 7/5/2015 2:02 PM, N8N wrote:
On Sunday, July 5, 2015 at 2:57:49 PM UTC-4, N8N wrote:
On Sunday, July 5, 2015 at 2:27:07 PM UTC-4, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/5/2015 12:37 PM, N8N wrote:
Hi all,

friend of mine was given a "free" bike and asked me if it was worth salvaging... still not sure yet but here goes.

Needs new bottom bracket and probably crankset as it looks like the gears are permanently welded to the spiders (Shimano stuff, assume low end?), and they've been mangled a little by bad shifting. Obviously chain as well and possibly cassette too.

I can't get anything apart yet as it's been sitting outside (so a bunch of stuff is soaking in penetrating oil) and also I need a few tools that I don't have to really tear into it.

does anyone know how I can determine the BB size without disassembly? I couldn't find an email link on Diamondback's web site. It is a Diamondback Response, year unknown. I haven't even got the cranks off yet as it looks like I need to find a temporary bolt to thread into the spindle to pull the arms off and I don't have anything in my stash that thread. It's a standard square taper, I can tell that much.

Does anyone know what tool I need to remove the BB? I can't try the few that I have as I don't have the crank arms off yet.

Also needs new shifters and cables. Condition of hubs unknown but they definitely need at least new balls/repack; they feel awful.

Finally is it possible that 7mm bolts were used in some places? I took the handlebars off and find that the 6mm bolts in my parts bin don't thread into the stem. however the original very rusty ones thread in fine and probably will be reused at least temporarily until I can source some new hardware.

Additionally I pulled the seatpost just to make sure it was free (because that would be a deal killer) the seat angle adjuster I don't have a single allen wrench that will fit it, is it possible it is 5.5mm?

I'm not a MTB guy but I'm kind of trying to save this one because a) it's a lot lighter than most MTBs being non-suspended and I think she's more looking for something for road and light trail riding; also she is very short so finding something "better" that fits her will be hard.

So do you think I can resurrect this for less than $200 or so? Then, is it worth it?


Check inside the left crank arm for a Shimano product number
(FC-dash-whatever) and possible two-letter date code (left
side is the clean side!). Then you'll know exactly what it
is and about which year. Just because the rings are pressed
to the arm doesn't make it unrideable. Unless broken, you
can ride it and evaluate all the rest before changing to a
better crank set.

typical 22mm crank remover about $10. (& up):
http://velobase.com/ViewTool.aspx?ID...efd5&AbsPos=19

Diamond Back BB shell is BSC, very standard stuff. Depending
on its age and quality, may be a Shimano 'sealed' unit or a
loose-ball model. At any rate, don't rebuild it if you're
replacing the crank. Get the correct matching
spindle/bearing assembly for the new crank.

Yes there are stems with 7mm thread faceplate bolts.
Annoying aren't they?

Your seat attaching bolt is likely just damaged. Remove post
and have a good look in a strong light. New bolt is m8x1.25
cheap at any hardware supplier. Lubricate thread for best
results. In many households the only allen tool is the
dejammer key under the garbage disposal. Those don't quite
fit, which doesn't stop people from trying.

Lastly, rusted/kinked cables can make you think it also
needs shifters. It may not.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

No it definitely needs shifters. The right one is missing pieces and only shifts one way. I think they are Alivio (sp?) integrated shifters/brake levers. Recommend for replacement?

Am thinking that I might just get a whole new wheelset, upgrade to 9-speed (it's currently 7 speed which seems to be kind of unsupported) because rear wheel has a big dent in it now that I spin it and the front hub is crunchy, also both chainrings and cassette look like they have a LOT of wear on them. I'm seeing Sun/Shimano Deore wheelsets for a little over $100 so this doesn't seem like madness.

The biggest question at this moment is what BB to order, would like to stay with square taper, with a new crankset with removeable rings. Am guessing should get Shimano BB-UN55 but don't know what length, or does that depend more on what the new crankset is rather than what the bike frame is?

Now that I look at it it looks like old BB is Shimano meaning that that is likely the tool I need. Which I don't have because my one bike is ISIS and the other still has the original loose ball thing. Yay buying more tools!

nate

Also, is Park BBT-22 the correct tool to remove the old square taper BB? Assuming of course that I can actually get the cranks off. Got my crank puller rigged up on there now with lots of pressure on it, I keep going downstairs and tapping on it every now and then, but it hasn't busted loose yet.

nate


Make sure there are no washers still inside the crank arm.

Oil the thread in your tool.
Ensure it's fully engaged all the way into the crank arm.

Then apply torque to the tool and if it doesn't slip right
off try a smart smack on the back side of the crank arm
while the tool is under pressure.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 7/5/2015 2:11 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Sunday, July 5, 2015 at 2:57:49 PM UTC-4, N8N wrote:
On Sunday, July 5, 2015 at 2:27:07 PM UTC-4, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/5/2015 12:37 PM, N8N wrote:
Hi all,

friend of mine was given a "free" bike and asked me if it was worth salvaging... still not sure yet but here goes.

Needs new bottom bracket and probably crankset as it looks like the gears are permanently welded to the spiders (Shimano stuff, assume low end?), and they've been mangled a little by bad shifting. Obviously chain as well and possibly cassette too.

I can't get anything apart yet as it's been sitting outside (so a bunch of stuff is soaking in penetrating oil) and also I need a few tools that I don't have to really tear into it.

does anyone know how I can determine the BB size without disassembly? I couldn't find an email link on Diamondback's web site. It is a Diamondback Response, year unknown. I haven't even got the cranks off yet as it looks like I need to find a temporary bolt to thread into the spindle to pull the arms off and I don't have anything in my stash that thread. It's a standard square taper, I can tell that much.

Does anyone know what tool I need to remove the BB? I can't try the few that I have as I don't have the crank arms off yet.

Also needs new shifters and cables. Condition of hubs unknown but they definitely need at least new balls/repack; they feel awful.

Finally is it possible that 7mm bolts were used in some places? I took the handlebars off and find that the 6mm bolts in my parts bin don't thread into the stem. however the original very rusty ones thread in fine and probably will be reused at least temporarily until I can source some new hardware.

Additionally I pulled the seatpost just to make sure it was free (because that would be a deal killer) the seat angle adjuster I don't have a single allen wrench that will fit it, is it possible it is 5.5mm?

I'm not a MTB guy but I'm kind of trying to save this one because a) it's a lot lighter than most MTBs being non-suspended and I think she's more looking for something for road and light trail riding; also she is very short so finding something "better" that fits her will be hard.

So do you think I can resurrect this for less than $200 or so? Then, is it worth it?


Check inside the left crank arm for a Shimano product number
(FC-dash-whatever) and possible two-letter date code (left
side is the clean side!). Then you'll know exactly what it
is and about which year. Just because the rings are pressed
to the arm doesn't make it unrideable. Unless broken, you
can ride it and evaluate all the rest before changing to a
better crank set.

typical 22mm crank remover about $10. (& up):
http://velobase.com/ViewTool.aspx?ID...efd5&AbsPos=19

Diamond Back BB shell is BSC, very standard stuff. Depending
on its age and quality, may be a Shimano 'sealed' unit or a
loose-ball model. At any rate, don't rebuild it if you're
replacing the crank. Get the correct matching
spindle/bearing assembly for the new crank.

Yes there are stems with 7mm thread faceplate bolts.
Annoying aren't they?

Your seat attaching bolt is likely just damaged. Remove post
and have a good look in a strong light. New bolt is m8x1.25
cheap at any hardware supplier. Lubricate thread for best
results. In many households the only allen tool is the
dejammer key under the garbage disposal. Those don't quite
fit, which doesn't stop people from trying.

Lastly, rusted/kinked cables can make you think it also
needs shifters. It may not.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

No it definitely needs shifters. The right one is missing pieces and only shifts one way. I think they are Alivio (sp?) integrated shifters/brake levers. Recommend for replacement?

Am thinking that I might just get a whole new wheelset, upgrade to 9-speed (it's currently 7 speed which seems to be kind of unsupported) because rear wheel has a big dent in it now that I spin it and the front hub is crunchy, also both chainrings and cassette look like they have a LOT of wear on them. I'm seeing Sun/Shimano Deore wheelsets for a little over $100 so this doesn't seem like madness.

The biggest question at this moment is what BB to order, would like to stay with square taper, with a new crankset with removeable rings. Am guessing should get Shimano BB-UN55 but don't know what length, or does that depend more on what the new crankset is rather than what the bike frame is?

Now that I look at it it looks like old BB is Shimano meaning that that is likely the tool I need. Which I don't have because my one bike is ISIS and the other still has the original loose ball thing. Yay buying more tools!

nate

7 speed stuff is still available and is a lot less $ than most 9 speed stuff. A 9 speed rear wheel will need to have the rear triangle widened to fit it and also the dropouts realigned.

Sounds to me like you're thinking about getting into a fairly expensive rebuild that might cost as much or more than a new bicycle.

Cheers


Sorry that last part is not quite right.
MTB have been 135mm for a good long while, 7, 8, 9, 10
speeds all.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 7/5/2015 2:11 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Sunday, July 5, 2015 at 2:57:49 PM UTC-4, N8N wrote:
On Sunday, July 5, 2015 at 2:27:07 PM UTC-4, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/5/2015 12:37 PM, N8N wrote:
Hi all,

friend of mine was given a "free" bike and asked me if it was worth salvaging... still not sure yet but here goes.

Needs new bottom bracket and probably crankset as it looks like the gears are permanently welded to the spiders (Shimano stuff, assume low end?), and they've been mangled a little by bad shifting. Obviously chain as well and possibly cassette too.

I can't get anything apart yet as it's been sitting outside (so a bunch of stuff is soaking in penetrating oil) and also I need a few tools that I don't have to really tear into it.

does anyone know how I can determine the BB size without disassembly? I couldn't find an email link on Diamondback's web site. It is a Diamondback Response, year unknown. I haven't even got the cranks off yet as it looks like I need to find a temporary bolt to thread into the spindle to pull the arms off and I don't have anything in my stash that thread. It's a standard square taper, I can tell that much.

Does anyone know what tool I need to remove the BB? I can't try the few that I have as I don't have the crank arms off yet.

Also needs new shifters and cables. Condition of hubs unknown but they definitely need at least new balls/repack; they feel awful.

Finally is it possible that 7mm bolts were used in some places? I took the handlebars off and find that the 6mm bolts in my parts bin don't thread into the stem. however the original very rusty ones thread in fine and probably will be reused at least temporarily until I can source some new hardware.

Additionally I pulled the seatpost just to make sure it was free (because that would be a deal killer) the seat angle adjuster I don't have a single allen wrench that will fit it, is it possible it is 5.5mm?

I'm not a MTB guy but I'm kind of trying to save this one because a) it's a lot lighter than most MTBs being non-suspended and I think she's more looking for something for road and light trail riding; also she is very short so finding something "better" that fits her will be hard.

So do you think I can resurrect this for less than $200 or so? Then, is it worth it?


Check inside the left crank arm for a Shimano product number
(FC-dash-whatever) and possible two-letter date code (left
side is the clean side!). Then you'll know exactly what it
is and about which year. Just because the rings are pressed
to the arm doesn't make it unrideable. Unless broken, you
can ride it and evaluate all the rest before changing to a
better crank set.

typical 22mm crank remover about $10. (& up):
http://velobase.com/ViewTool.aspx?ID...efd5&AbsPos=19

Diamond Back BB shell is BSC, very standard stuff. Depending
on its age and quality, may be a Shimano 'sealed' unit or a
loose-ball model. At any rate, don't rebuild it if you're
replacing the crank. Get the correct matching
spindle/bearing assembly for the new crank.

Yes there are stems with 7mm thread faceplate bolts.
Annoying aren't they?

Your seat attaching bolt is likely just damaged. Remove post
and have a good look in a strong light. New bolt is m8x1.25
cheap at any hardware supplier. Lubricate thread for best
results. In many households the only allen tool is the
dejammer key under the garbage disposal. Those don't quite
fit, which doesn't stop people from trying.

Lastly, rusted/kinked cables can make you think it also
needs shifters. It may not.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

No it definitely needs shifters. The right one is missing pieces and only shifts one way. I think they are Alivio (sp?) integrated shifters/brake levers. Recommend for replacement?

Am thinking that I might just get a whole new wheelset, upgrade to 9-speed (it's currently 7 speed which seems to be kind of unsupported) because rear wheel has a big dent in it now that I spin it and the front hub is crunchy, also both chainrings and cassette look like they have a LOT of wear on them. I'm seeing Sun/Shimano Deore wheelsets for a little over $100 so this doesn't seem like madness.

The biggest question at this moment is what BB to order, would like to stay with square taper, with a new crankset with removeable rings. Am guessing should get Shimano BB-UN55 but don't know what length, or does that depend more on what the new crankset is rather than what the bike frame is?

Now that I look at it it looks like old BB is Shimano meaning that that is likely the tool I need. Which I don't have because my one bike is ISIS and the other still has the original loose ball thing. Yay buying more tools!

nate

7 speed stuff is still available and is a lot less $ than most 9 speed stuff. A 9 speed rear wheel will need to have the rear triangle widened to fit it and also the dropouts realigned.

Sounds to me like you're thinking about getting into a fairly expensive rebuild that might cost as much or more than a new bicycle.

Cheers


Apologies, Sir.
You're correct on the last part; it was the penultimate
point on spacing I meant.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971