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Desperate needs = desperate but workable solution



 
 
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Old May 8th 18, 12:39 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
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Default Desperate needs = desperate but workable solution

On 2018-05-07 14:03, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, May 7, 2018 at 12:50:15 PM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: snip

Re-shaping knobbies can be ok but people use these to deepen the
valleys as well. Also, take a closer look at the video and you can
see how he damages the "meat" next to the knobbies. That can
trigger a progressing hair fracture in the rubber next to the
knobbies and then somewhere in the boonies ... *POOF* ... tire is
gone. I won't likely cause injury but a non-rideable dirt bike 50mi
from anywhere can be very unpleasant.


Tread cutting is done regularly by MTB racers.
https://www.bicycling.com/training/a...-to-cut-tires/ And,
of course, motorcycle racers. It doesn't lead to a failure unless you
penetrate the casing, and then you get a flat -- and not some
massive, tire-ending failure. The tire is not gone. I've booted
innumerable casing cuts and ridden home.



I also don't see how putting some shoe goo-ish substance on a
scuffed sidewall is so dangerous. I've ridden plenty of tires
with scuffed sidewalls with no patch at all. I just wore them
out. It's not like Doug is patching some gash, and in fact,
looking at the tire, it's hard to see the scuff.



Pictures Doug posted earlier clearly showed compromised and frayed
threads. These do not re-gain any strength whatsoever from such a
cosmetic "repair". It's like smearing Bondo over a structural crack
on a vehicle. We all know what can happen if the front road bike
tire blows on a fast downhill section of road.


Doug says it was minor and nothing in the pictures indicates a
serious problem.


Not serious? Put on your glasses and look again at the left side he

https://www.dropbox.com/s/1z270cz94b...30730.jpg?dl=0

Even here you can see the thread starting to fray and fail almost
everywhere along a sort of "equator line":

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ao5r35u5y7...30742.jpg?dl=0

That tire belongs on the trash heep and that's where mine went.


Assuming his casing scuff developed into a casing failure (which I
doubt), he would get a rear blow-out -- or just a rear flat if the
resulting hole were small. He could fold-over a dollar bill, boot
the tire, put in a spare tube and ride home. Yawn. None of this will
or could happen if he just kept an eye on the tire, which he is
doing. Bad casings will bulge long before they burst, if they every
burst.


And what do you do for the front? Bikes have two wheels. Call your wife
from the hospital that dinner is off tonight, and the next 10-20 days?


But things are different out in the wild west Jay. Imagine a
blowout when the mountain lions are circling. ...



I had cattle around me when that happened last time. The kaboom
made them run away. Luckily that didn't cause a stampede of the
rest of the herd. Strangely, while I was cleaning up the pieces
that had flown off the bike they came back. Probably curious enough
to see what's going on.


Pieces flying off the bike? What? Do you run your tires at 1,000
PSI? Are you using your wheels for shotgun target practice?


No, 55-60psi, gnarly section with loose rocks. Rear came off the ground,
landed ... *KABOOM* ... thwock. A chunk of tire flew off and smashed the
rear light off of the bike. The remnants of the light were found in
numerous pieces in a 10ft radius around where the kaboom happened (took
a while to get the MTB to a stop, downhill). It also took out a charge
controller circuit board for the Li-Ion lighting battery. Then some
metal pieces. Plus a hole in the trunk bag.

I learned my lesson from that. Now anything electronic is in ABS and
cast aluminum enclosures. That and the upper trunk are protected by an
aluminum strut that is shaped as a U-profile. The top trunk now rides on
a plywood plate which also allows me to quickly move it between MTB and
road bike or use the bare plate to faster larger loads.

http://www.analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/Muddy4.JPG

The bike still looks the same except now it has 8" rotors front and back.

There is also a third protection layer in the shape of a thick aluminum
false bottom below, mainly to catch rocks, mud and stuff:

http://www.analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/Rack1.JPG

This has turned out to be almost indestructible but you have to make
such stuff yourself. The industry doesn't get it.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
 




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