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buying my first road bike



 
 
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  #11  
Old October 2nd 03, 03:45 AM
Dick Schoeller
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Default buying my first road bike

People have made some good suggestions so far. One thing that you may
want to try is the next size down. It is easier to raise the seat a bit
to get the leg length right than it is to adjust the reach. This is
especially true if the reach is too long. You can only shorten so much by
using a shorter stem. Obviously this can be over done. If you end up
with the seat too high you won't be able to get the handle bar height to a
reasonable match.

If you are going to do some loaded touring, you might want to look at a
touring bike. Trek has the 520. Cannondale has the T800. These will be
factory equipped with wider tires. Many have V brakes or cantilevers.
They generally have more braze-ons for racks and fenders. They are also
generally geared a bit lower. These bike also have a more relaxed
geometry.

Whichever "style" you decide on, make sure it fits before you buy it!

Good Luck!

On Wed, 01 Oct 2003 10:08:34 -0700, Tanya Quinn wrote:

So I've been riding around (almost always on the road) for the past 5
years on a non-suspension Giant sedona mountain bike I bought used at
the time (no idea how used). A car mashed the rims while it was
parked, I had the bike store fix it with whatever was cheapest. I've
since put slick tires on it. The gears are kinda clonky and the brakes
seem fairly non-responsive if the roads are wet or going down a steep
hill. I've become pretty enthusiastic about biking in the last two
years, I ride about 2000 km a year mostly for transportation but like
going on long day rides (130 km was the highest so far, but I would
probably enjoy going further if the bike was slightly more
comfortable) and basically exploring around on weekends. I figure it
is time to buy a real road bike, nice new and shiny

The new bike will not likely be used for day-to-day urban riding
because I don't want it to get stolen - so I'll use the old bike for
that. I'd like to use a new bike for multi-day touring - I've never
tried this before, and my first trip would likely be a week long
minimally packed trip (stay in motels not camp). I'd like to have the
option of using it for camping touring though. I would also probably
use it for long day rides, either by myself or club rides. I'd like to
be able to try out racing or a triathlon, but that wouldn't be the
primary purpose of the bike.

Any ideas for what to look for? I've never ridden a road bike before.
I had a ten-speed as a teenager and the falls I took on it scared me a
bit from skinny tires (I'm not the world's most balanced person!) but
I imagine good road bikes are much more stable than that was. I went
to the LBS recently and test rode a Cannondale R400. I'm 5'11" and
female, and I tried a 56 cm bike which seemed a good height but the
reach seemed a bit much even though they changed the handlebar stem to
a shorter one for my test ride. I really didn't get to take it for
much of a spin, the bike store is located in a busy urban downtown
area, and while I'm quite comfortable riding my own bike in the area
I'm not so balanced on the new one (as an aside, I also find I can
only balance one handed on my bike with my left hand off but not vice
versa) Plus speed is constrained by the cars moving slower than a bike
would and no open lane. It totally threw me having the brakes on the
front rather than on the top and I nearly took out a pedestrian in the
intersection because I found it weird to brake. Are they easy to get
used to? I imagine I would like better having the choices of riding
positions (only one on my current bike makes for sore long rides) and
also the lower position would be nice going into the wind.

My budget is ideally around $1000 Cdn (750 US) but I would likely
double it if I found a bike I really fell in love with, and would be
good for future touring, and was a good deal. The 2003 Cannondale R400
was 999 on sale end of season, but they had a 2002 that appealed to me
more aesthetic wise (it was orange ) for 849 but only had it left
in 50 or 58. I thought the 58 would be too big so didn't test ride it
(they didn't have the larger one set up)

I also tried a more commuter-style road bike by Cannondale that just
had straight handlebars, (don't remember the model) but in addition to
thinking I would like drop bars if I could get used to them, the big
ring on it didn't seem very big.

What would be a good entry level touring bike to try out? While the
touring bike would be more comfortable for longer loaded rides, is it
more slower than a traditional road bike when I just want to go fast
unloaded? (I'm sure I'll notice a big difference going away from the
mountain bike anyway) The R400 did not have a place for front racks -
I'd only need back for credit card touring but front would be nice if
I decide to go across the country and I think the rack still needed
just to clamp on on the back, as well some of the bikes seemed like
they would be awkward to equip with fenders, which would seem useful
for when it rains in the middle of the tour Do clip on fenders work
okay?

Any tips on bike models to try, questions to ask, things to test out,
and what things to look for would be appreciated. I really am just
happy to ride and don't notice too much things like what the
components are so I wouldn't notice much difference between the models
on a short test ride.


--
Dick Schoeller

http://schoeller.ne.client2.attbi.com/
781.449.5476

"Er ist ein Narr, der meint, es sei nicht schad, das Kind
auszuschütten mit dem Bad" - Thomas Murner 1512

Ads
  #12  
Old October 2nd 03, 12:55 PM
mark freedman
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Posts: n/a
Default buying my first road bike

Your mailbox appears to be full. This was bounced twice.

Some Toronto-specific comments of little interest
to the world at large.
================================================== =========

OTTOMH rambling reply. Can discuss in detail if you like.

A touring bike has clearance for wide tires and braze-ons
for fender s and racks and wide gearing. A key decision is the
choice between STI / ERGO (shift/brake) levers or barcons
(bar-end shifters, separate brake levers).

I personally wouldn't buy Shimano Sora because it's
eight speed so you don't have the upgrade path to Tiagra,
105, LX, etc. Sora shifters are also different from the
other STI models. A matter of preference, apparently they're
more comfortable for small hands.


Bike shops clear out older stock, at discounts up to 30%
depending on model and time of year.

Europe Bound on Front East had a bike section in the
basement, and years ago was clearing stock at 30% off.

I bought my Mikado D'Iberville in March 1999 for 30% off,
from Cyclepath on Yonge. I would not deal with them again.

(Therein lies a tale, on request.) If I have to give
up cycling,it's for sale - Mikado replaced the broken steel
frame with their latest new aluminium frame, under warranty.
Kudos to Mikado (if you like aluminium frames).

I recently saw the Fuji touring bike at Sports Swap for
about $1K. Seemed like a really nice bike for that price.

Other possibilities under $1K include the lower end
Mikado's (the new D'Iberville is around $1500), Norco,
DeVinci - all Canadian made. Marinoni is IMO a much better
bike, but starts at $1500. Trek 520 is THE traditional
steel touring bike, starts around $1400. Urbane Cyclist
has their own line of frames, but the complete bike
costs as much as a Marinoni, IMO I'd buy Marinoni.



From: "Tanya Quinn"
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc
Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 1:08 PM
Subject: buying my first road bike


The old bike sounds ideal for most of your downtown riding,
shopping, etc. Less painful if it's stolen. Bikes & Skis and
other dealers do a complete overhaul for $125 plus parts like
chain or cassette. I have no experience with B&S, just saw their
price list.

. The gears are kinda clonky


Could need adjusting, or a new chain (and perhaps cassette).
Not sure what "clonky" means. Could just be sticky cables, or
derailleur adjustment.

and the brakes seem fairly non-responsive


Could be sticky cables or glazed pads. Mountain Equipment
Co-op sells the Kool Stop Salmon pads, which many people
like. They don't chew up the rims like Shimano pads, but I've
never gotten rid of the squealing (works better than a horn).


mostly for transportation


I'm not comfortable leaving my Mikado locked to a post
while I shop. So the old clunker really IS worth fixing for
your short errands and commuting and .....

is time to buy a real road bike, nice new and shiny

You could google groups for discussions of touring bikes,
read alex wetmore's comments, etc.

that. I'd like to use a new bike for multi-day touring - I've never


IMO One can always put narrower tires and a closely-spaced
cassette on a touring bike, and strip the fenders and racks,
but you can't go the other direction with most "road" bikes.

So for versatility .......



be able to try out racing or a triathlon,


A touring bike may not be competitive against racing
oriented road bikes. Don't know how important winning
is to you, or whether you could just enjoy competing.


bit from skinny tires
(I'm not the world's most balanced person!)


Hmmmm .... double entendre ? :-)

Touring bikes usually come with 700*28 or wider.
The Mikado seems to have clearance for 700*45's,
e.g. studded winter tires. I'm running 32's, but the new
aluminium frame has me considering 35's.

Table of tire/rim matches at www.sheldonbrown.com. I
believe I can go to 700*25 on the Mikado, probably safest
with 700*28. For serious racing, one might want lighter
narrower wheels/tires and a closely-spaced cassette,
i.e. a second set. One could swap the RD and chain, touring
bikes often have an MTB derailleur to handle the BIG (34) cog.

female, and I tried a 56 cm bike which seemed a good height but the


I believe women tend to need a shorter top tube and/or stem.
See www.sheldonbrown.com, www.rivendellbicycles.com,
scan the groups for "women's bikes," etc.

Trek has a line of women-specific frames, you could compare
the geometry to the equivalent men's bikes. I suspect the top
tubes are a bit shorter. You aren't tiny, so I don't think you'd
need a Terry or other "petite" frame.

There are sites where you enter inseam, arm length,
etc etc to obtain proper bike dimensions.

www.chainreactionbicycles.com gas articles on fit and on
test riding.

much of a spin, the bike store is located in a busy urban downtown


Duke's ? Haven't dealt with them, other than to have
Russel Duke (?) explain the difference between different
models to me. Seemed helpful and knowledgeable.

versa) Plus speed is constrained by the cars moving slower than a bike


Sports Swap (and Cyclepath on Yonge, which I don't recommend)
are near the Mount Pleasant Cemetery, which allows virtually
traffic-free cycling, although there's a speed limit and
obvious limits on behaviour. I'd hate to see cyclists banned
because of a few inconsiderate yahoos (they've had problems with
"boy racers" tearing through the cemetery at high speed,
IMO boorish even by "boy racer" standards).

Are they easy to get used to?


Yep. Can brake from the hoods or the curves (hooks ?) for
more force. I see a few road bikes now have dual levers.
Not the old mechanical "safety" levers, but an actual separate
brake lever spliced to the cable. IMO More to go wrong.


I(only one on my current bike

Bar-ends, usually angled forward. Newk bar-ends curve down
like dropped bars, but the controls don't move, so you'd want
to stay on the tops riding in traffic.


also the lower position would be nice going into the wind.


IMO Many road bikes don't allow the bars to be raised
enough to be comfortable in the drops. See
www.rivendellbicycles.com for articles on "raise that stem"
and riding position.



My budget is ideally around $1000 Cdn (750 US) but I would likely
double it if I found a bike I really fell in love with, and would be


Ahhhhh. Marinoni Turismo with Campagnolo Veloce.
About C$1700. But don't let MY preferences influence you :-)

http://www.bikespecialties.com/about.html

You can read about the Marinoni there. I have mixed
feelings about BS, Tom has "attitude" which I consider
inappropriate.

Marinoni is made to order, and can be made to measure for
a bit extra. They have switched from lugged Columbus steel
to TIG welded non-round steel, and some models are available
in TIG welded non-round aluminium. Not sure if you can
still special order the lugged frames.

more aesthetic wise (it was orange ) for 849 but only had it left


Custom paint and chrome on the Marinoni. I corresponded
with someone awaiting one in "put on the welding mask"
BRIGHT ORANGE!!!

Don't know how he likes it in the flesh (or the steel).

in 50 or 58. I thought the 58 would be too big


You can always raise the seat (long seatposts are common),
so find the right length top tube. Extremely long or short stems
may change the weight distribution and handling. they're also
hard to find - I'm hoping that an 8 CM will improve comfort
on the Mikado (currently 9CM). 9CM is already pretty short.


, the big ring on it didn't seem very big.


Some hybrids use MTB crankset and front derailleur.
Which gives you (ottomh) 44 tooth big ring. 22/32/44?

Shimano used to have the RSX road crankset with 26/36/46,
which IMO is VERY suitable for touring. They switched to
the ubiquitous 30/42/52, which is less so.

The Front derailleur must be matched to the chainrings
for proper shifting, and the bolt circle diameter may not
allow a larger ring to be installed on a MTB crankset. So
it's not always possible to just swap chainrings.

The gearing calculator at www.sheldonbrown.com is
useful to get an idea of speeds at rpm's with different
combinations.

What would be a good entry level touring bike to try out?


Canadian brands include Mikado, DeVinci, Norco
(all aluminium frames now, I believe). Marinoni - steel.
Fuji - steel. Trek 520 - steel. Cannondale - aluminium.
May be others. Pick the bike shop first.

Marinoni offers the choice of Campagnolo or Shimano.
Which is a religious issue. Personal preference, shape and
function of the levers, availability of parts for repair
(versus replacement of complete unit), availability of low
gears. I don't find the STI hoods all that comfortable.
Haven't spent any time on ERGO for comparison.

more slower than a traditional road bike


IMO Tires make a big difference. So if you use bullet-proof
35's for touring, smoother 28's for "fast rides," and
perhaps lower the bars for the latter, I'm not sure how much
difference you'd see. Touring bikes weigh a few pounds more,
have different geometry. The steel Mikado frame had a LOT of
flex (perhaps contributed to its downfall), the aluminium
frame is ***RIGID***. I've read that a stiff frame wastes
less pedalling energy.


I'll notice a big difference going away from the mountain bike


You have narrow high-pressure slicks, how fast are you now ?
Are you spinning out ? Would getting down out of the wind help ?


Riding in a peleton probably gives the greatest boost in speed
and distance, being able to draft (too dangerous for me).

The R400 did not have a place for front racks -


That's pretty much touring-bike specific. You may be able
to use clamps (analogous to the ones used to mount rear racks
where there aren't braze-ons). STI cables tend to block a handlebar
bag, which is one alternative to low-rider panniers. High center
of gravity, OTOH a map pocket and perhaps more accessible for
a camera or snacks. I've seen photos in which someone used
90-degree noodles to re-route the STI shifter cables and allow
a large handlebar bag to be installed.


for when it rains in the middle of the tour Do clip on fenders work
okay?


google groups for fenders. not a lot good said about clip-ons,
the (new name slips my mind - used to be something like Esge) are
better, somebody recommended adding a mudflap.

the components are


IMO it's worth going to at least Tiagra in Shimano STI,
to get the 9 speed compatibility and the normal STI
functionality. Or Veloce in Campagnolo. I wouldn't spend
a LOT to go higher. The Mikado has Shimano LX (ATB) and 105
(road) mix, which seems pretty standard for a mid-range
touring bike. Higher level groups may have improvements
in function and durability. I know the RSX STI levers gave
me terrible hand/arm pain after a ten minute ride, while
the 105's don't after hours of riding. Tha's an OBVIOUS
no-brainer.

Above LX / 105 I think you pay a lot for better finish and
perhaps lighter weight and/or fancy materials. The top end
racing components may not be as durable as LX/105.

hth
  #13  
Old October 2nd 03, 01:07 PM
David Kerber
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default buying my first road bike

In article ,
says...

....

I also tried a more commuter-style road bike by Cannondale that just
had straight handlebars, (don't remember the model) but in addition to
thinking I would like drop bars if I could get used to them, the big
ring on it didn't seem very big.

What would be a good entry level touring bike to try out? While the
touring bike would be more comfortable for longer loaded rides, is it
more slower than a traditional road bike when I just want to go fast
unloaded? (I'm sure I'll notice a big difference going away from the
mountain bike anyway) The R400 did not have a place for front racks -
I'd only need back for credit card touring but front would be nice if
I decide to go across the country and I think the rack still needed
just to clamp on on the back, as well some of the bikes seemed like
they would be awkward to equip with fenders, which would seem useful
for when it rains in the middle of the tour Do clip on fenders work
okay?


I love my 2003 Fuji Touring which I got earlier this year. 27-speed
Deore/Tiagra STI group, long wheelbase and 700x32c tires so it rides
smooth, comes with a rear rack, with mounts for fenders and front
rack. The rear rack can be easily removed if you're not carrying
anything. I like drop bars for the multiple hand positions and the
ability to get down out of the wind, and had no problem adjusting to
having just one set of brake levers since I normally ride on the
hoods anyway. (My old bike had "suicide brake" levers).

I paid slightly above your budget level (US$799), but you might find
it cheaper as a year-end close out. I'm 6' with short legs and long
arms for my height, and got the 58cm size; the 54 felt a bit cramped.
It's just a touch too big, but pushing the seat well forward makes it
feel good. I imagine the 54 cm size might be just right for you.

The 2004 model is essentially identical (a different model of rear
hub, IIRC) but is a different color.

Any tips on bike models to try, questions to ask, things to test out,
and what things to look for would be appreciated. I really am just
happy to ride and don't notice too much things like what the
components are so I wouldn't notice much difference between the models
on a short test ride.


So take a longer one! ;-)

--
Dave Kerber
Fight spam: remove the ns_ from the return address before replying!

REAL programmers write self-modifying code.
  #14  
Old October 2nd 03, 01:15 PM
David Kerber
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default buying my first road bike

In article , sorni@bite-
me.san.rr.com says...
"Tanya Quinn" wrote in message
om...
"Roger Zoul" wrote in message

...
The Specialized Sequoia might be to your liking, as they have two sets

of
break handles, above the drops and on the top...


http://www.specialized.com/SBCBkFami...m3go4fr.j27004

The Sequioa have comfort features built in which you may appreciate.


Ah I must point out that Specialized seems to have a twisted concept
of comfort when it comes to their Body Geometry saddles. I bought one
on the weekend to replace my current worn out seat (foam had come out
of it) And so far painful.. I'm hoping that breaking it in more will
help. It looks like these saddles are on the Sequoia, do you like the
saddle on yours?


FWIW, I tried an early version of the BG saddles years ago, and found the
same as you: TORTURE DEVICE!

Yet others I know love 'em.


I like mine, though it's a recent model (1.5 yrs old). I got the
larger version, but don't remember the exact model. When I got my new
bike, I gave the new bike's factory saddle a couple of weeks but ended
up moving my BG saddle from the old bike to the new one, much to the
relief of my soft tissues...


--
Dave Kerber
Fight spam: remove the ns_ from the return address before replying!

REAL programmers write self-modifying code.
  #16  
Old October 2nd 03, 09:02 PM
Frederic Briere
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default buying my first road bike

Tanya Quinn wrote:
would and no open lane. It totally threw me having the brakes on the
front rather than on the top and I nearly took out a pedestrian in the
intersection because I found it weird to brake. Are they easy to get
used to? I imagine I would like better having the choices of riding
positions (only one on my current bike makes for sore long rides) and
also the lower position would be nice going into the wind.


I switched from department store MTBs to a real touring bike earlier
this year, and it did take some getting used to. I couldn't quite put a
finger on it (both the new touring and old MTB seemed to have the same
geometry), but everything, from starting/stopping to handling to
braking, seemed weird at first, as if I had to re-learn how to ride a
bike. I assumed it was just me.

My budget is ideally around $1000 Cdn (750 US) but I would likely
double it if I found a bike I really fell in love with, and would be
good for future touring, and was a good deal. The 2003 Cannondale R400


If you're lucky, you could snatch a good entry touring bike on sale at
that price. That's how I got the last Destination 2002 left in the
store. Entry level touring bikes typically sell for $1200, with the
next "bracket" around $1600.

was 999 on sale end of season, but they had a 2002 that appealed to me
more aesthetic wise (it was orange ) for 849 but only had it left


Isn't the R400 more of a road bike with a granny than a touring bike?

What would be a good entry level touring bike to try out? While the


Often mentioned on r.b.m are the Trek 520, the Bianchi Volpe, the Fuji
Touring, and the REI/Novara Randonnee. However, your LBS will probably
have other models to offer you, so it's best to evaluate what is
available to you instead of selecting a model right away. As someone
else said on this thread, choose the LBS (or two or three), then choose
the bike.

touring bike would be more comfortable for longer loaded rides, is it
more slower than a traditional road bike when I just want to go fast
unloaded? (I'm sure I'll notice a big difference going away from the


I couldn't say about road bikes, as I never rode one. (I'm a big fat
slug, so I don't care about riding fast; I prefer to ride farther.) Of
course, as you pointed out, you'll see the difference with your old
bike. Don't expect your average speed to dramatically increase,
however. The differences are a bit more subtle; hills are a bit easier,
long rides are slightly less exhausting, headwinds are more manageable
(though they're still frustrating g). IOW, you'll find riding to be
even more enjoyable.

mountain bike anyway) The R400 did not have a place for front racks -
I'd only need back for credit card touring but front would be nice if
I decide to go across the country and I think the rack still needed
just to clamp on on the back, as well some of the bikes seemed like


Don't think about touring with a rear rack that hangs from the seatpost;
those things are not meant to carry a lot of weight.

they would be awkward to equip with fenders, which would seem useful
for when it rains in the middle of the tour Do clip on fenders work
okay?


To each his own; I prefer sturdy fenders that stay on my bike all the
time. Besides, I haven't seen any clip-ons that work as well as "true"
fenders.

Any tips on bike models to try, questions to ask, things to test out,
and what things to look for would be appreciated. I really am just


Here's a few things I would look for:

GEARS: A granny gear is a must on a touring bike; even if you live in
Manitoba and always do credit-card touring, it's nice to know that you
*can* carry 50lbs of baggage uphill. Having at least one big rear cog
is also a plus; my lowest gear is 30-front and 34-rear, and I find it
useful from time to time. 9-speed is also a plus.

BRAKES: Make sure that there's enough clearance to install fenders;
cantis are the best in that regard. I believe there are also fenders
that will fit V-brakes, though I'd personally ask the LBS to switch the
brakes (and the levers) for cantis instead.

TIRES: Touring is typically done on 28/32/35 tires, although there are
no rules about this; maybe you'd prefer 23s for credit-card touring, or
maybe you often use bike paths and dirt roads and would rather use 38s.
The important thing is to make sure that the rims, brakes and frame can
all accomodate whatever tire size you might want to ride in the future.

WHEELS: 32 spokes should be enough, but 36 is always a plus. Anything
less than 32 should be avoided.

FRAME: You want at least one pair of eyelets in front and at the rear;
two pairs is preferable. (This is my main gripe with the Destination --
it only has one pair each.) Rack braze-ons on the fork and seatstays
are a definite plus. There should also be water cage braze-ons on the
seat tube and the down tube. (Some touring bikes have a third pair
under the down tube, where you can hang a spare bottle upside down.)

On a more personal note, I'd rather avoid having cables routed under the
top tube (like on the R400), as this robs you of a very convenient
location to store a frame pump. And I wish manufacturers started
putting braze-ons for pumps, dynamos and spare spokes. (I know the Fuji
Touring includes the latter; why aren't competitors imitating it?)


--
Frederic Briere *

= IS NO MO http://www.abacomsucks.com =
  #17  
Old October 2nd 03, 09:19 PM
Buck
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default buying my first road bike

"Frederic Briere" wrote in message
...

Here's a few things I would look for:

GEARS: A granny gear is a must on a touring bike; even if you live in
Manitoba and always do credit-card touring, it's nice to know that you
*can* carry 50lbs of baggage uphill. Having at least one big rear cog
is also a plus; my lowest gear is 30-front and 34-rear, and I find it
useful from time to time. 9-speed is also a plus.

BRAKES: Make sure that there's enough clearance to install fenders;
cantis are the best in that regard. I believe there are also fenders
that will fit V-brakes, though I'd personally ask the LBS to switch the
brakes (and the levers) for cantis instead.

TIRES: Touring is typically done on 28/32/35 tires, although there are
no rules about this; maybe you'd prefer 23s for credit-card touring, or
maybe you often use bike paths and dirt roads and would rather use 38s.
The important thing is to make sure that the rims, brakes and frame can
all accomodate whatever tire size you might want to ride in the future.

WHEELS: 32 spokes should be enough, but 36 is always a plus. Anything
less than 32 should be avoided.

FRAME: You want at least one pair of eyelets in front and at the rear;
two pairs is preferable. (This is my main gripe with the Destination --
it only has one pair each.) Rack braze-ons on the fork and seatstays
are a definite plus. There should also be water cage braze-ons on the
seat tube and the down tube. (Some touring bikes have a third pair
under the down tube, where you can hang a spare bottle upside down.)

On a more personal note, I'd rather avoid having cables routed under the
top tube (like on the R400), as this robs you of a very convenient
location to store a frame pump. And I wish manufacturers started
putting braze-ons for pumps, dynamos and spare spokes. (I know the Fuji
Touring includes the latter; why aren't competitors imitating it?)


Sorry for leaving so much of your post in place, but I thought it was a
pretty good list. I think that the Giant OCR touring bike
(www.giant-bicycles.com) meets most of those criteria. Here's the list of
goodies:

Compact Road Design
Touring specific geometry and features
three water bottle mounts
fender and rack mounts
internal cable routing
Avid Disc Brakes

It would definitely be worth a ride.

-Buck



  #18  
Old October 3rd 03, 03:13 PM
Roger Zoul
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default buying my first road bike

Hey Tanya -- Please keep us up-to-date on your first-road-bike purchase....

Tanya Quinn wrote:
:: So I've been riding around (almost always on the road) for the past 5
:: years on a non-suspension Giant sedona mountain bike I bought used at
:: the time (no idea how used). A car mashed the rims while it was
:: parked, I had the bike store fix it with whatever was cheapest. I've
:: since put slick tires on it. The gears are kinda clonky and the
:: brakes seem fairly non-responsive if the roads are wet or going down
:: a steep hill. I've become pretty enthusiastic about biking in the
:: last two years, I ride about 2000 km a year mostly for
:: transportation but like going on long day rides (130 km was the
:: highest so far, but I would probably enjoy going further if the bike
:: was slightly more comfortable) and basically exploring around on
:: weekends. I figure it is time to buy a real road bike, nice new and
:: shiny
::
:: The new bike will not likely be used for day-to-day urban riding
:: because I don't want it to get stolen - so I'll use the old bike for
:: that. I'd like to use a new bike for multi-day touring - I've never
:: tried this before, and my first trip would likely be a week long
:: minimally packed trip (stay in motels not camp). I'd like to have the
:: option of using it for camping touring though. I would also probably
:: use it for long day rides, either by myself or club rides. I'd like
:: to be able to try out racing or a triathlon, but that wouldn't be the
:: primary purpose of the bike.
::
:: Any ideas for what to look for? I've never ridden a road bike before.
:: I had a ten-speed as a teenager and the falls I took on it scared me
:: a bit from skinny tires (I'm not the world's most balanced person!)
:: but I imagine good road bikes are much more stable than that was. I
:: went to the LBS recently and test rode a Cannondale R400. I'm 5'11"
:: and female, and I tried a 56 cm bike which seemed a good height but
:: the reach seemed a bit much even though they changed the handlebar
:: stem to a shorter one for my test ride. I really didn't get to take
:: it for much of a spin, the bike store is located in a busy urban
:: downtown area, and while I'm quite comfortable riding my own bike in
:: the area I'm not so balanced on the new one (as an aside, I also
:: find I can only balance one handed on my bike with my left hand off
:: but not vice versa) Plus speed is constrained by the cars moving
:: slower than a bike would and no open lane. It totally threw me
:: having the brakes on the front rather than on the top and I nearly
:: took out a pedestrian in the intersection because I found it weird
:: to brake. Are they easy to get used to? I imagine I would like
:: better having the choices of riding positions (only one on my
:: current bike makes for sore long rides) and also the lower position
:: would be nice going into the wind.
::
:: My budget is ideally around $1000 Cdn (750 US) but I would likely
:: double it if I found a bike I really fell in love with, and would be
:: good for future touring, and was a good deal. The 2003 Cannondale
:: R400 was 999 on sale end of season, but they had a 2002 that
:: appealed to me more aesthetic wise (it was orange ) for 849 but
:: only had it left in 50 or 58. I thought the 58 would be too big so
:: didn't test ride it (they didn't have the larger one set up)
::
:: I also tried a more commuter-style road bike by Cannondale that just
:: had straight handlebars, (don't remember the model) but in addition
:: to thinking I would like drop bars if I could get used to them, the
:: big ring on it didn't seem very big.
::
:: What would be a good entry level touring bike to try out? While the
:: touring bike would be more comfortable for longer loaded rides, is it
:: more slower than a traditional road bike when I just want to go fast
:: unloaded? (I'm sure I'll notice a big difference going away from the
:: mountain bike anyway) The R400 did not have a place for front racks -
:: I'd only need back for credit card touring but front would be nice if
:: I decide to go across the country and I think the rack still
:: needed just to clamp on on the back, as well some of the bikes
:: seemed like they would be awkward to equip with fenders, which would
:: seem useful for when it rains in the middle of the tour Do clip
:: on fenders work okay?
::
:: Any tips on bike models to try, questions to ask, things to test out,
:: and what things to look for would be appreciated. I really am just
:: happy to ride and don't notice too much things like what the
:: components are so I wouldn't notice much difference between the
:: models on a short test ride.


  #19  
Old October 3rd 03, 06:31 PM
Tanya Quinn
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default buying my first road bike

"Roger Zoul" wrote in message ...
Hey Tanya -- Please keep us up-to-date on your first-road-bike purchase....


Thanks everyone for all the tips and suggestions! Now I'm overwhelmed
by too many choices I haven't had a chance to go back bike shopping
again yet, hopefully on the weekend. Thanks Mark too for the
Toronto-specific suggestions - thanks for posting it when the email
bounced. I am getting emailed copies of the Microsoft patch virus like
crazy nuts - I wish the ISP would junk them all on their side so I
don't have to pop so often.
  #20  
Old October 5th 03, 03:00 AM
Tanya Quinn
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default buying my first road bike

Well here's an update on my quest to find a road/touring bike:

I happened upon a bike store while I was out of town and killing some
time. I found a bike which I really like and someone in this thread
posted that they like as well - the Devinci Caribou.

http://www.devinci.com/eng/modele200...lo/caribou.htm
Its a 2002 model on sale for 1379 Canadian (dunno what the exchange is
like I figure that's approx 1000 US)

There is a triple chain ring and a really wide range of gears from 11
to 34. The shifters are Shimano 105 STI. The guy at this shop seemed
more knowledgable than the previous LBS guy. Only disadvantage - its
out of town, I don't have a car, and didn't want to buy on the spot so
I could think about it first But being in a smaller town there were
actual quieter streets to ride around on so I could try it out without
fear of not being able to brake fast enough with getting used to the
road bike. I found it easier to brake this time, finding that riding
on the hoods was much easier for this purpose than trying to ride
straight on

The frame is hand made aluminum, the L size seemed a good fit after
they swapped in a shorter stem, and there are SPD pedals which I would
like to get used to. And best of all its a real touring bike so it has
all the attachments for fenders and racks unlike the previous bike I
test rode.

Does this sound like a reasonable deal? The components seem good?
(specs on the link) Should I worry much that the bike store is
inconvenient located for service (1 year is included) or will I not
have much to worry about the first year?

Thanks for all your suggestions so far, they've been very helpful!

Tanya
 




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