#31
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Trek 2100 Carbon?
On Apr 10, 9:49*am, " wrote:
On Apr 9, 2:32 pm, N8N wrote: On Apr 9, 9:07 am, " wrote: On Apr 8, 7:43 pm, Nate Nagel wrote: N8N wrote: On Apr 8, 4:28 pm, " wrote: On Apr 8, 4:21 pm, N8N wrote: On Apr 8, 2:20 pm, " wrote: On Apr 8, 1:55 pm, N8N wrote: On Apr 8, 1:52 pm, " wrote: On Apr 8, 12:53 pm, N8N wrote: Would this be a good bike for just general recreational road riding? I believe it's a 1998 model supposedly in "fantastic condition." Wasn't looking for anything like this at all but it came up for a price well within my discretionary spending budget. *Am thinking this bike may be more serious than I am thanks, Nate From what I know about you and your uses/interests, I'd probably stay away from carbon frames and low spoke count wheels. *I think you were on the right track with a Surly, or maybe a JTS. *Even the cross bike your LBS tried to sell you... something other than carbon with wheels that have few spokes. *It's kinda like having an old lotus as a daily driver. *Sure, they're fun, but as a regular driver? *Then again, a lot depends on your weight and the condition of your local roads and paths. Heh, see my last post. *I have a serious jones for an Elite, know where I could get one for cheap? nate- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Do you know what size frame you want? *Here's a couple to glance at:http://tinyurl.com/5gj7a7&http://tin...idequotedtext- i'm thinking I need probably either a 56 or 57cm. *The Fuji I was looking at at my LBS was a 58cm frame and it just felt too big. Certain portions of my anatomy were quivering in fear when I tried to put my feet flat on the ground. nate- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - OK, in that case the 2 I linked are too big. *They're still more along the lines of what I'd be looking for if I were you. Yeah, that was kind of what I was looking for as well, but the 2100 is similarly priced, is why it caught my eye. *I'm pretty much a sucker for anything high performance. *You should see some of the stupid stuff I've done to my cars. I'm trying to show restraint here, but i'm not sure how successful I'll be nate Hmmm... took the POS bike for a real-ish ride today (dropped car off for a tire balance and oil change, just threw the bike in the hatch rather than wait for SWMBO to come home and pick me up) my knees hurt. *I think it's too small, even with the seat jacked up. *Makes sense as the PO was about 3" shorter than I. *Makes me want to buy something. You maintain the Stude and yet the shop changes the oil on the FBP? Never would have seen that coming. *Then again, when it's cold and wet out my mechanic changes my oil too. Anyway, congrats on the ride. *Ride that thing as much as you can before you get your next bike, you'll appreciate the difference that much more. Here's something that may surprise you - I really don't like working on cars. *I *do* like driving nice cars. *Sometimes the only way to own something that fits your personal definition of "nice" is to build it yourself You're right, that does surprise me. *I feel you on the needing to build nice yourself thing, I feel that way about a few things but they tend to have 2 wheels, or have no wheels and float. *With cars and trucks it's usually small mods, someone else got it pretty damn close most of the time. eh, I was a car guy before I could drive. that was a done deal. I just happen to also have an interest in bikes and I'm enough of a machinery snob that an X-mart bike won't cut it, but I probably will never, say, build my own wheels. (of course, never say never. It could happen if I had a good reason to do so.) I do wish that there was a shop around that could handle the final tuning on the Stude - I so want to drive it but I know it's going to be a lot of trial and error to get the carb set up right (it's a new Edelbrock "Thunder Series" AVS clone) Damn shame. *I know a guy in NH, not that that's a hike or anything. Heh. I'd probably want to have the carb tuned *before* attempting the drive up there... it's not like a R1 engine (Avanti-spec 289, 10.something to 1 compression) doesn't drink enough premium as it is. I'm hoping that I come to my senses otherwise people are going to be asking "who's that chubby poser on that nice bike?" *If they notice at all, that is. Nothing wrong with being a chubby guy on a bike. *Hell, I know some really fast chubby guys. Fit makes a huge difference, and your knees will be one of the first places to notice. *Some fit issues can be addressed with seat position and/or a new stem, but a bike that really doesn't fit just won't fit. One of the nice things about buying a bike from a shop is a good shop can and will properly fit you to a bike. *However, in my area less than half the shops I know of do that. *A quick standover is not a fit, by the way. So I'm guessing you to be 5'7 or 5'8ish, give or take a bit in either direction, to want a 56/57 frame. *Depending you your version of chubby, you might be pushing the weight limit of that 2100, especially the wheels. *Like I said, if you don't mind having to wrench it and take care of it all the more power to you, have a blast. *I'd probably buy it if it was cheap enough, though it'd have to be real, real cheap to get me to buy a 10 year old weight-weenie model. Did you take a gander at this one? * *http://tinyurl.com/3vpmsjIf you really want something racy, you could do worse. *I have a feeling you'll be replacing spokes semi-regularly or getting new wheels, but overall it's not a bad bike. *It takes at least 32c tires, which is nice. *It's got a triple (3 sprockets up front) for the hills. *Aside from the low spoke count I like it a lot. *Then again, I weight in @ 200lbs and encounter bumps, potholes, curbs, etc. so I really don't like low spoke wheels. *YMMV.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I'm actually a generous 5'10" or a light 5'11" about 180 lbs. give or take (haven't actually weighed myself in ages. *Might be closer to 190, who knows.) *I guess my legs are short for my height because I did feel like the 58cm Cross Comp was just a little too big for me. That's surprising. *Everyone is built different, but I'm the same height and find a 58 usually fits me nice. *Also keep in mind the stem, seat etc. can greatly change the feel of a bike. *Could be you have a short inseam, could be you're just used to riding a smaller frame, it's hard to say. *Keep in mind road bikes are not supposed to have much clearance between the top tube and the goodies. *One of the roadies may be able to give you a more specific number than "not much". If you wanted to find out you could get a fitting, or at least measure your inseam and check some charts. *Also remember, different companies measure size differently, so one companies 58 is another's 59-59.5. There's a good article to check out herehttp://tinyurl.com/5aacha I'll try to check it out, thanks. Back when I was really in shape I had amazing leg strength - could actually out-squat some of the varsity football players at my high school, which was full of mutant large football players - *which is part of my concern with the carbon frame - I'm wondering if I really got back into riding enough to build up my legs any appreciable amount, I could actually do something bad to the frame. *Is this a real concern? I'm not qualified to answer that question, but I will anyway - I really doubt it. *I don't think your average layman, however strong, is going to put more torque on those things than the pro racers, and they're not ripping frames apart with their leg strength. *However, 180-190 is on the upper end of the weight range for some of those carbon bikes and low spoke count wheels. *I know I've had shops I trust tell me flat out they wouldn't advise a carbon frame under me when I weighed 190ish. *Then again, I know others that would sell an all-carbon bike with a 150lb limit to a 450lb man without blinking. Another thing to consider is clearance for bigger tires and/or fenders. *Tire size is a function of where you ride for the most part, you'd have to tell us more about the condition of the roads and trails. *Fenders rock though, especially on your only bike. *Sometimes it's absolutely beautiful out, but the roads are still wet from a previous rain. *Without fenders the front tire soaks your legs front while the rear throws a wet skunk-stripe up your back, making the ride miserable. *Fenders can transform that same ride into one of the better rides of the season. *Most of these race bikes with low spoke wheels, carbon frames, etc. won't have clearance for fenders, even if you kludge the mounting (they almost certainly won't have eyelets). Hmm, that is finally a compelling argument against buying it.... I don't see me ever losing a significant amount of weight, only redistributing it. (I weighed about the same my freshman year in college as I do now, at least within 10 lbs - it was just a little more attractively distributed back then. I wouldn't mind trying to reverse that process a little, but if I drop below 160 or so, I don't have enough body fat to make it between meals without getting lightheaded. BTDT. Not fun.) nate |
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#32
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OT: non-human powered transportation Trek 2100 Carbon?
On Apr 10, 9:27 pm, Tom Sherman
wrote: N8N aka Nate Nagel wrote: On Apr 9, 10:03 pm, Tom Sherman wrote: N8N aka Nate Nagel wrote: On Apr 9, 1:32 am, Tom Sherman wrote: N8N aka Nate Nagel wrote: On Apr 8, 1:35 pm, landotter wrote: On Apr 8, 11:53 am, N8N wrote: Would this be a good bike for just general recreational road riding? If you ride on sunny days with smooth roads and it fits--you'll have plenty of fun with it. I personally wouldn't want to own just a gee whiz fast bike as my only bike--but if it fits you and your needs, go for it. Have a good look at the frame and fork before buying. Look for deep scratches and cracks. If it's "well used", walk away. Well, I *do* own a 20 year old Porsche as my "real" car, if that gives you any kind of idea as to what makes my ears wiggle I even put snow tires on it in the winter, which no doubt gives the "purists" apoplectic fits. This is what a vintage Porsche would look like if you drove around here for a few winters: http://content.leenks.com/pics/2008/oldexotics/oldexotics-6.jpg. Can't see your pic at work and it's probably just as well... It is the rotting, er rusting corpse of a (early 1970's?) Porsche 911. Full collection of "exotics" that have seen better days is he http://www.leenks.com/gallery641.htm. I'm deliberately not clicking on that link. You are missing another 911 with shrubbery growing out of it, some nasty E-Types, a filth covered Miura, a ratty Countach, some beat up Aston-Martin DB-6's, tired and broken Ferraris, moldering Mercedes-Benz's and other examples of neglect. Enjoy! truth is, that since the mid-70s Porsche has used all galvanized steel as well as adding that typical German paraffin undercoating, so they're actually fairly rust resistant as far as car bodies go. Actually surprisingly practical, if you can just get past the cost of parts. Well, all the suspension bits, brakes, etc. will still rust up. Eventually, it will not be worth it to repair the vehicle, unless it is something where the ID plate is worth more than the cost of a complete rebuild (e.g. 250 GTO). Not so much as you'd think. Most of the exposed parts of the car that aren't part of the main body structure (suspension, engine, transaxle, etc.) are all aluminum not steel; not that aluminum can't corrode, but it's no big deal in practice. I worry about suspension parts that have seen 20 years of road salt. I've probably already passed the point where repair is not cost effective, but until someone makes a new car that drives and handles as well for a price I can afford, I will keep patching it up. Of course a VW GTI or Scirocco is 90% of the fun for 50% of the cost, but I never said that all my purchasing decisions made perfect sense. Here is the car I really want: http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc214/vt1992s10/100_0467.jpg. Heh. Talk about something that rusts if you sneeze at it wrong. (not that i can talk, I've got a Studebaker...) Yes, but I like the statement a Datsun B-210 Honey Bee makes. -- That 'car' fairly shouts:"My owner is a tasteless, clueless dork.". Is that the "statement" you had in mind? (The B-210 was an ugly, inept, rust prone POS in the 1970s; thirty years have not improved the situation.) |
#33
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OT: non-human powered transportation Trek 2100 Carbon?
On Apr 11, 10:07*am, Ozark Bicycle
wrote: On Apr 10, 9:27 pm, Tom Sherman wrote: N8N aka Nate Nagel wrote: On Apr 9, 10:03 pm, Tom Sherman wrote: N8N aka Nate Nagel wrote: On Apr 9, 1:32 am, Tom Sherman wrote: N8N aka Nate Nagel wrote: On Apr 8, 1:35 pm, landotter wrote: On Apr 8, 11:53 am, N8N wrote: Would this be a good bike for just general recreational road riding? If you ride on sunny days with smooth roads and it fits--you'll have plenty of fun with it. I personally wouldn't want to own just a gee whiz fast bike as my only bike--but if it fits you and your needs, go for it. Have a good look at the frame and fork before buying. Look for deep scratches and cracks. If it's "well used", walk away. Well, I *do* own a 20 year old Porsche as my "real" car, if that gives you any kind of idea as to what makes my ears wiggle *I even put snow tires on it in the winter, which no doubt gives the "purists" apoplectic fits. This is what a vintage Porsche would look like if you drove around here for a few winters: http://content.leenks.com/pics/2008/oldexotics/oldexotics-6.jpg. Can't see your pic at work and it's probably just as well... It is the rotting, er rusting corpse of a (early 1970's?) Porsche 911.. Full collection of "exotics" that have seen better days is he http://www.leenks.com/gallery641.htm. I'm deliberately not clicking on that link. You are missing another 911 with shrubbery growing out of it, some nasty E-Types, a filth covered Miura, a ratty Countach, some beat up Aston-Martin DB-6's, tired and broken Ferraris, moldering Mercedes-Benz's and other examples of neglect. Enjoy! truth is, that since the mid-70s Porsche has used all galvanized steel as well as adding that typical German paraffin undercoating, so they're actually fairly rust resistant as far as car bodies go. Actually surprisingly practical, if you can just get past the cost of parts. Well, all the suspension bits, brakes, etc. will still rust up. Eventually, it will not be worth it to repair the vehicle, unless it is something where the ID plate is worth more than the cost of a complete rebuild (e.g. 250 GTO). Not so much as you'd think. *Most of the exposed parts of the car that aren't part of the main body structure (suspension, engine, transaxle, etc.) are all aluminum not steel; not that aluminum can't corrode, but it's no big deal in practice. I worry about suspension parts that have seen 20 years of road salt. I've probably already passed the point where repair is not cost effective, but until someone makes a new car that drives and handles as well for a price I can afford, I will keep patching it up. Of course a VW GTI or Scirocco is 90% of the fun for 50% of the cost, but I never said that all my purchasing decisions made perfect sense.. Here is the car I really want: http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc214/vt1992s10/100_0467.jpg. Heh. *Talk about something that rusts if you sneeze at it wrong. *(not that i can talk, I've got a Studebaker...) Yes, but I like the statement a Datsun B-210 Honey Bee makes. -- That 'car' fairly shouts:"My owner is a tasteless, clueless dork.". Is that the "statement" you had in mind? (The B-210 was an ugly, inept, rust prone POS in the 1970s; thirty years have not improved the situation.) Eh, they were a neat little road race/rally car back in the day, not my cup of tea but I wouldn't be so hard on them. nate |
#34
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OT: non-human powered transportation Trek 2100 Carbon?
Just so you can see how the USA has its head stuck in the car/highway
religion, see what people are doing in other parts of the world. For example, China: http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showpo...&postcount=522 http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showpo...&postcount=526 Compare this effort with our perpetual more highways, more lanes, more smog, waste more fuel methods. Jobst Brandt |
#35
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OT: non-human powered transportation Trek 2100 Carbon?
On Apr 11, 2:52 pm, N8N wrote:
On Apr 11, 10:07 am, Ozark Bicycle wrote: On Apr 10, 9:27 pm, Tom Sherman wrote: N8N aka Nate Nagel wrote: On Apr 9, 10:03 pm, Tom Sherman wrote: N8N aka Nate Nagel wrote: On Apr 9, 1:32 am, Tom Sherman wrote: N8N aka Nate Nagel wrote: On Apr 8, 1:35 pm, landotter wrote: On Apr 8, 11:53 am, N8N wrote: Would this be a good bike for just general recreational road riding? If you ride on sunny days with smooth roads and it fits--you'll have plenty of fun with it. I personally wouldn't want to own just a gee whiz fast bike as my only bike--but if it fits you and your needs, go for it. Have a good look at the frame and fork before buying. Look for deep scratches and cracks. If it's "well used", walk away. Well, I *do* own a 20 year old Porsche as my "real" car, if that gives you any kind of idea as to what makes my ears wiggle I even put snow tires on it in the winter, which no doubt gives the "purists" apoplectic fits. This is what a vintage Porsche would look like if you drove around here for a few winters: http://content.leenks.com/pics/2008/oldexotics/oldexotics-6.jpg. Can't see your pic at work and it's probably just as well... It is the rotting, er rusting corpse of a (early 1970's?) Porsche 911. Full collection of "exotics" that have seen better days is he http://www.leenks.com/gallery641.htm. I'm deliberately not clicking on that link. You are missing another 911 with shrubbery growing out of it, some nasty E-Types, a filth covered Miura, a ratty Countach, some beat up Aston-Martin DB-6's, tired and broken Ferraris, moldering Mercedes-Benz's and other examples of neglect. Enjoy! truth is, that since the mid-70s Porsche has used all galvanized steel as well as adding that typical German paraffin undercoating, so they're actually fairly rust resistant as far as car bodies go. Actually surprisingly practical, if you can just get past the cost of parts. Well, all the suspension bits, brakes, etc. will still rust up. Eventually, it will not be worth it to repair the vehicle, unless it is something where the ID plate is worth more than the cost of a complete rebuild (e.g. 250 GTO). Not so much as you'd think. Most of the exposed parts of the car that aren't part of the main body structure (suspension, engine, transaxle, etc.) are all aluminum not steel; not that aluminum can't corrode, but it's no big deal in practice. I worry about suspension parts that have seen 20 years of road salt. I've probably already passed the point where repair is not cost effective, but until someone makes a new car that drives and handles as well for a price I can afford, I will keep patching it up. Of course a VW GTI or Scirocco is 90% of the fun for 50% of the cost, but I never said that all my purchasing decisions made perfect sense. Here is the car I really want: http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc214/vt1992s10/100_0467.jpg. Heh. Talk about something that rusts if you sneeze at it wrong. (not that i can talk, I've got a Studebaker...) Yes, but I like the statement a Datsun B-210 Honey Bee makes. -- That 'car' fairly shouts:"My owner is a tasteless, clueless dork.". Is that the "statement" you had in mind? (The B-210 was an ugly, inept, rust prone POS in the 1970s; thirty years have not improved the situation.) Eh, they were a neat little road race/rally car back in the day, not my cup of tea but I wouldn't be so hard on them. IIRC, that was true of the earlier (late '60s/early 70s) Datsun 510. I have no such recollection concerning the B-210. I'm open to input. |
#36
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OT: non-human powered transportation Trek 2100 Carbon?
Ozark Bicycle wrote:
On Apr 10, 9:27 pm, Tom Sherman wrote: N8N aka Nate Nagel wrote: On Apr 9, 10:03 pm, Tom Sherman wrote: N8N aka Nate Nagel wrote: On Apr 9, 1:32 am, Tom Sherman wrote: N8N aka Nate Nagel wrote: On Apr 8, 1:35 pm, landotter wrote: On Apr 8, 11:53 am, N8N wrote: Would this be a good bike for just general recreational road riding? If you ride on sunny days with smooth roads and it fits--you'll have plenty of fun with it. I personally wouldn't want to own just a gee whiz fast bike as my only bike--but if it fits you and your needs, go for it. Have a good look at the frame and fork before buying. Look for deep scratches and cracks. If it's "well used", walk away. Well, I *do* own a 20 year old Porsche as my "real" car, if that gives you any kind of idea as to what makes my ears wiggle I even put snow tires on it in the winter, which no doubt gives the "purists" apoplectic fits. This is what a vintage Porsche would look like if you drove around here for a few winters: http://content.leenks.com/pics/2008/oldexotics/oldexotics-6.jpg. Can't see your pic at work and it's probably just as well... It is the rotting, er rusting corpse of a (early 1970's?) Porsche 911. Full collection of "exotics" that have seen better days is he http://www.leenks.com/gallery641.htm. I'm deliberately not clicking on that link. You are missing another 911 with shrubbery growing out of it, some nasty E-Types, a filth covered Miura, a ratty Countach, some beat up Aston-Martin DB-6's, tired and broken Ferraris, moldering Mercedes-Benz's and other examples of neglect. Enjoy! truth is, that since the mid-70s Porsche has used all galvanized steel as well as adding that typical German paraffin undercoating, so they're actually fairly rust resistant as far as car bodies go. Actually surprisingly practical, if you can just get past the cost of parts. Well, all the suspension bits, brakes, etc. will still rust up. Eventually, it will not be worth it to repair the vehicle, unless it is something where the ID plate is worth more than the cost of a complete rebuild (e.g. 250 GTO). Not so much as you'd think. Most of the exposed parts of the car that aren't part of the main body structure (suspension, engine, transaxle, etc.) are all aluminum not steel; not that aluminum can't corrode, but it's no big deal in practice. I worry about suspension parts that have seen 20 years of road salt. I've probably already passed the point where repair is not cost effective, but until someone makes a new car that drives and handles as well for a price I can afford, I will keep patching it up. Of course a VW GTI or Scirocco is 90% of the fun for 50% of the cost, but I never said that all my purchasing decisions made perfect sense. Here is the car I really want: http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc214/vt1992s10/100_0467.jpg. Heh. Talk about something that rusts if you sneeze at it wrong. (not that i can talk, I've got a Studebaker...) Yes, but I like the statement a Datsun B-210 Honey Bee makes. -- That 'car' fairly shouts:"My owner is a tasteless, clueless dork.". Is that the "statement" you had in mind? (The B-210 was an ugly, inept, rust prone POS in the 1970s; thirty years have not improved the situation.) butbutbut, it has a Honey Bee sticker! -- Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia The weather is here, wish you were beautiful |
#37
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OT: non-human powered transportation Trek 2100 Carbon?
N8N aka Nate Nagel wrote:
On Apr 11, 10:07 am, Ozark Bicycle wrote: On Apr 10, 9:27 pm, Tom Sherman wrote: N8N aka Nate Nagel wrote: On Apr 9, 10:03 pm, Tom Sherman wrote: N8N aka Nate Nagel wrote: On Apr 9, 1:32 am, Tom Sherman wrote: N8N aka Nate Nagel wrote: On Apr 8, 1:35 pm, landotter wrote: On Apr 8, 11:53 am, N8N wrote: Would this be a good bike for just general recreational road riding? If you ride on sunny days with smooth roads and it fits--you'll have plenty of fun with it. I personally wouldn't want to own just a gee whiz fast bike as my only bike--but if it fits you and your needs, go for it. Have a good look at the frame and fork before buying. Look for deep scratches and cracks. If it's "well used", walk away. Well, I *do* own a 20 year old Porsche as my "real" car, if that gives you any kind of idea as to what makes my ears wiggle I even put snow tires on it in the winter, which no doubt gives the "purists" apoplectic fits. This is what a vintage Porsche would look like if you drove around here for a few winters: http://content.leenks.com/pics/2008/oldexotics/oldexotics-6.jpg. Can't see your pic at work and it's probably just as well... It is the rotting, er rusting corpse of a (early 1970's?) Porsche 911. Full collection of "exotics" that have seen better days is he http://www.leenks.com/gallery641.htm. I'm deliberately not clicking on that link. You are missing another 911 with shrubbery growing out of it, some nasty E-Types, a filth covered Miura, a ratty Countach, some beat up Aston-Martin DB-6's, tired and broken Ferraris, moldering Mercedes-Benz's and other examples of neglect. Enjoy! truth is, that since the mid-70s Porsche has used all galvanized steel as well as adding that typical German paraffin undercoating, so they're actually fairly rust resistant as far as car bodies go. Actually surprisingly practical, if you can just get past the cost of parts. Well, all the suspension bits, brakes, etc. will still rust up. Eventually, it will not be worth it to repair the vehicle, unless it is something where the ID plate is worth more than the cost of a complete rebuild (e.g. 250 GTO). Not so much as you'd think. Most of the exposed parts of the car that aren't part of the main body structure (suspension, engine, transaxle, etc.) are all aluminum not steel; not that aluminum can't corrode, but it's no big deal in practice. I worry about suspension parts that have seen 20 years of road salt. I've probably already passed the point where repair is not cost effective, but until someone makes a new car that drives and handles as well for a price I can afford, I will keep patching it up. Of course a VW GTI or Scirocco is 90% of the fun for 50% of the cost, but I never said that all my purchasing decisions made perfect sense. Here is the car I really want: http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc214/vt1992s10/100_0467.jpg. Heh. Talk about something that rusts if you sneeze at it wrong. (not that i can talk, I've got a Studebaker...) Yes, but I like the statement a Datsun B-210 Honey Bee makes. -- That 'car' fairly shouts:"My owner is a tasteless, clueless dork.". Is that the "statement" you had in mind? (The B-210 was an ugly, inept, rust prone POS in the 1970s; thirty years have not improved the situation.) Eh, they were a neat little road race/rally car back in the day, not my cup of tea but I wouldn't be so hard on them. Ozark Bicycle never misses an opportunity for a gratuitous insult. -- Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia The weather is here, wish you were beautiful |
#38
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Trek 2100 Carbon?
In article
, N8N wrote: eh, I was a car guy before I could drive. that was a done deal. I just happen to also have an interest in bikes and I'm enough of a machinery snob that an X-mart bike won't cut it, but I probably will never, say, build my own wheels. (of course, never say never. It could happen if I had a good reason to do so.) At the least you could learn to true, tension, tension balance, and stress relieve wheels. That way you can buy a machine built wheel set with good quality parts for good money, then tune up the wheels yourself. Start by truing your current wheels. First put penetrating lubricant on the threads and wait a day. Choosing parts, finding parts, buying parts, and lacing the wheels is the other half. -- Michael Press |
#39
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Trek 2100 Carbon?
Michael Press wrote:
eh, I was a car guy before I could drive. that was a done deal. I just happen to also have an interest in bikes and I'm enough of a machinery snob that an X-mart bike won't cut it, but I probably will never, say, build my own wheels. (of course, never say never. It could happen if I had a good reason to do so.) At the least you could learn to true, tension, tension balance, and stress relieve wheels. That way you can buy a machine built wheel set with good quality parts for good money, then tune up the wheels yourself. Start by truing your current wheels. First put penetrating lubricant on the threads and wait a day. Make sure the interface between spoke nipple and rim eyelet also get a drop of oil. No need to wait. Oil will not separate metal-to-metal loaded interfaces and will, therefore, not change with passage of time. Choosing parts, finding parts, buying parts, and lacing the wheels is the other half. Selecting ready made wheels is usually easier faster and less expensive. Jobst Brandt |
#40
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Trek 2100 Carbon?
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