#51
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rubber compounds
On Thu, 01 Mar 2018 09:15:39 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote: SCNR: Wanna comment on the theory about modern lower-mass (iirc) sensors in weather stations contributing to measuring higher global temperatures? I just realized that I forgot the punch line. Weather is measured with weather instruments. Climate is measured by temperature proxy means, such as counting tree rings, trapped gasses in ice, pollen, etc. https://www.ncdc.noaa.gov/news/what-are-proxy-data It's a very different world where statistical creativity has replaced bad data from toy weather stations. One of the few places where climate and weather collide is when some researcher gets funding to collect weather data to demonstrate that the IPCC climate predictions are coming true. In other words, that the oceans are rising, the temperatures are rising, and the storms are getting worse. To the best of my limited knowledge and reading, I haven't seen any reliable correlation. Incidentally, this is a graph of the local rainfall data I threw together: http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/slv-wx/SLV-rainfall.jpg http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/slv-wx/ However, if I want to use it for predicting future rainfall using a polynomial expansion, all I need to do us use an odd number power to produce the next great appocalyptic flood, or an even number power to predict drought. http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/slv-wx/SLV-rainfall-forecast-06.xls This doesn't illustrate much, except how easy it is to tweak trends and predictions. Gone... -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
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#52
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rubber compounds
On Thu, 1 Mar 2018 13:05:55 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote: On 3/1/2018 12:15 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: 4. Nobody calibrates home weather stations. Select your home area on Wundermap and notice the wide variations in literally every measurement: https://www.wunderground.com/wundermap I'd love to calibrate, but I doubt it's possible. Calibration isn't the problem. It's siting, or where to put the sensors. Probably 15 or 20 years ago, for Christmas I was given a basic Oregon Scientific weather unit with a remote, radio-linked thermometer. That went on the outside north wall of the house and gave obviously better readings than the analog unit on the south side of the house, even though the latter is under the porch roof. You're allegedly trying to measure the AIR temperature, not the temperature of the building wall. The temp sensor would be mounted at least 5ft away from an heat radiators (like your house north wall). It should not be surrounded by stagnant air (like the air under an overhanging roof). Direct sunlight sunlight is an obvious bad idea. It should use some kind of moving air. That means some kind of radiation shield https://www.ambientweather.com/amwesrpatean.html that produces convective air flow, or has a built in fan to move the air. Actually, the fan is much better than the "pagoda" design. http://www.davisnet.com/product_documents/weather/spec_sheets/fars_sheet.pdf What works is a 4x4 pillar, pounded into the ground, with simple tube as a sun shield, a fan to blow air in from the bottom, and a solar panel to power the fan. I'm not sure of the sensor height but I think 4ft would be acceptable. But last year, the Oregon Scientific started overestimating the temperature by something like 50 degrees. (But it was just as confident as ever, down to a tenth of a degree!) I did all the electronic resets, I opened the remote looking for problems, I looked for calibration info online, etc. All failed. And I couldn't find replacement units online. That's quite a large error. I think the sensor is kaput. I have spares of the older Oregon Scientific wireless sensors as long as you don't mine sun faded yellow plastic and dirt finish. How many do you want? So now there's a good old analog thermometer mounted outside a north side window. Sigh. So much for high tech. However, I shouldn't complain. I have a bimetallic spring type dial thermometer hung in a tree (away from the house). Such thermometers are inherently inaccurate and not worth calibrating, so I don't have to worry about it. The Di2 analogy is left as an exercise for the reader. ;-) Huh? -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#53
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rubber compounds
On Thu, 1 Mar 2018 12:42:46 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote: On 2/28/2018 11:59 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: My firewood "processing" equipment: http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/chainsaw/slides/chain-saws-02.html I also fix chain saws on the side for friends, neighbors, and extra cash... Stay tuned to this thread for yet another exciting topic drift. With all those chainsaws, I can't wait to hear about your juggling skills! About the same as my ability to juggle the company books. The three Homelite EZ saws in the foreground are about 40 years old, lack a chain brake, and are not in the best condition. I purchased the all red one new. Sometime in the past century, I loaned it to a friend, who ran it without any oil mixed with fuel until it froze. The others are little better than parts, or so I thought. I traded all three to my neighbors son, who claimed to know something about chainsaw repair. A few days later, all three were running. I was impressed with his mechanical abilities, and depressed that I was too lazy to fix them myself. Oh well. That leaves me with 4 gas and 2 electric which run, and 1 gas saws that don't run. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#54
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On 3/2/2018 8:03 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 1 Mar 2018 13:05:55 -0500, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 3/1/2018 12:15 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: 4. Nobody calibrates home weather stations. Select your home area on Wundermap and notice the wide variations in literally every measurement: https://www.wunderground.com/wundermap I'd love to calibrate, but I doubt it's possible. Calibration isn't the problem. It's siting, or where to put the sensors. Well, as noted, this thing's error is FAR greater than siting would generate. Besides, it's been in the same site for all those 15 or 20 years. The crazy readings began a year ago, more or less. Probably 15 or 20 years ago, for Christmas I was given a basic Oregon Scientific weather unit with a remote, radio-linked thermometer. That went on the outside north wall of the house and gave obviously better readings than the analog unit on the south side of the house, even though the latter is under the porch roof. You're allegedly trying to measure the AIR temperature, not the temperature of the building wall. The temp sensor would be mounted at least 5ft away from an heat radiators (like your house north wall). It should not be surrounded by stagnant air (like the air under an overhanging roof). Direct sunlight sunlight is an obvious bad idea. It should use some kind of moving air. That means some kind of radiation shield More detail: The sensor is zip-tied to a vertical plastic conduit that protects the main power line input to the electrical meter. The conduit is separated from the wall by some fraction of an inch, and the sensor touches the conduit only down the center of the sensor's back, so it's about 3" away from that wall. The wall behind the sensor is insulated, and the vinyl siding has air pockets built in from its faux shingle shape. There's also a thin layer of foil-skinned styrofoam between the ancient wood siding and the modern vinyl. All this means heat gain from the house must be negligible. Being on the north side of the house, it's perpetually shaded. It's about five feet above the ground. And as I said, it certainly worked well enough for a decade or two. Perhaps not as well as the siting setup you describe, but well enough for my purposes. But last year, the Oregon Scientific started overestimating the temperature by something like 50 degrees. (But it was just as confident as ever, down to a tenth of a degree!) I did all the electronic resets, I opened the remote looking for problems, I looked for calibration info online, etc. All failed. And I couldn't find replacement units online. That's quite a large error. I think the sensor is kaput. Yes, that's what I decided. It's doubtlessly a thermistor, and they're not bulletproof like thermocouples tend to be. I have spares of the older Oregon Scientific wireless sensors as long as you don't mine sun faded yellow plastic and dirt finish. How many do you want? One would do just fine, if it works! If you're serious, the base unit is model BA928. The sensor is THR128. You can probably decode my "reply to" address. In real life the address lacks upper case characters. So now there's a good old analog thermometer mounted outside a north side window. Sigh. So much for high tech. However, I shouldn't complain. I have a bimetallic spring type dial thermometer hung in a tree (away from the house). Such thermometers are inherently inaccurate and not worth calibrating, so I don't have to worry about it. The Di2 analogy is left as an exercise for the reader. ;-) Huh? sigh Ok, I'll do it for you. Friction shifters are like an analog thermometer. Not super precise, require a bit more thinking, can't be interfaced to your Facebook Live feed, but they work in their own way pretty much forever. Di2 is high tech electronic shifting that works much more precisely until one day in the far future it's suddenly off by 50 gear inches. (They're never as funny if you have to explain them.) -- - Frank Krygowski |
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Frank Krygowski wrote:
With all those chainsaws, I can't wait to hear about your juggling skills! I know how to juggle with 4 balls. Our 2x2 is perhaps more correct as the balls never change hands with the simples method. Juggling is great fun for kids at a summer resort but even for adults it can be not only fun but actually useful, for example if you had some mildly unpleasant experience, like some moron was shouting at you, and now you don't care about the whole situation but still can't stop thinking about it, then juggling for 10m often makes it go away. And if it doesn't, you can always do it for ten more minutes -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
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On Fri, 2 Mar 2018 20:49:05 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote: More detail: The sensor is zip-tied to a vertical plastic conduit that protects the main power line input to the electrical meter. The conduit is separated from the wall by some fraction of an inch, and the sensor touches the conduit only down the center of the sensor's back, so it's about 3" away from that wall. The wall behind the sensor is insulated, and the vinyl siding has air pockets built in from its faux shingle shape. There's also a thin layer of foil-skinned styrofoam between the ancient wood siding and the modern vinyl. All this means heat gain from the house must be negligible. Being on the north side of the house, it's perpetually shaded. It's about five feet above the ground. And as I said, it certainly worked well enough for a decade or two. Perhaps not as well as the siting setup you describe, but well enough for my purposes. Actually, that's not too horrible. 3" away from the wall is still to close. More like 5ft or more is required to prevent heating by the house. I'm down to maintaining only one mountain top weather station. (Sigh of relief). Too much work and driving up and down rotten roads. To deal with accuracy and calibration, there's the CWOP site which compares temperature readings from individual weather stations with neighboring weather stations and running the MADIS quality check: http://wxqa.com If something is awry, the graphs will usually show a problem. Here's a sample of one such station in Md. Note the error reports in red: http://weather.gladstonefamily.net/site/C0351 However, it doesn't always work as expected. I was maintaining one weather station that was constantly showing errors when compared to the surrounding weather stations. So, I visited all 6 nearby stations and found them all to be miserably sited. Our stations was reading correctly, but the system favors the majority, even if all of them are wrong. Yes, that's what I decided. It's doubtlessly a thermistor, and they're not bulletproof like thermocouples tend to be. Yep, it's probably a 10K thermistor. https://www.wxforum.net/index.php?topic=17353.0 They do fail, but are easily replaced. One would do just fine, if it works! If you're serious, the base unit is model BA928. The sensor is THR128. You can probably decode my "reply to" address. In real life the address lacks upper case characters. I found a THR128 and a THGR268 with hangers. They look old and the battery compartments haven't been opened. I suspect I'll find the usual corrosion and corruption inside. I'll clean it out and test it before sending. I think both will work. Send me a mailing address by email (address in signature). Hmmm... the BA928 has a phase of the moon feature. Probably designed for werewolves. Sigh. So much for high tech. However, I shouldn't complain. I have a bimetallic spring type dial thermometer hung in a tree (away from the house). Such thermometers are inherently inaccurate and not worth calibrating, so I don't have to worry about it. The Di2 analogy is left as an exercise for the reader. ;-) Huh? sigh Ok, I'll do it for you. Friction shifters are like an analog thermometer. Not super precise, require a bit more thinking, can't be interfaced to your Facebook Live feed, but they work in their own way pretty much forever. Di2 is high tech electronic shifting that works much more precisely until one day in the far future it's suddenly off by 50 gear inches. (They're never as funny if you have to explain them.) I still don't get it. Please don't explain. Maybe my brain will recover from tonights radio club meeting in the morning. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
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On Fri, 02 Mar 2018 23:24:13 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote: I found a THR128 and a THGR268 with hangers. They look old and the battery compartments haven't been opened. I suspect I'll find the usual corrosion and corruption inside. I'll clean it out and test it before sending. I think both will work. Send me a mailing address by email (address in signature). The THR128 checks out just fine. No corrosion, accurate temperature, and makes the appropriate noises on 433.925MHz. However, the THGR268 is rotted out on the inside from a leaky alkaline battery. I could probably clean and fix it, but prefer to salvage the components to fix other sensors. So, you get just the THR128. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
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rubber compounds
Jeff Liebermann wrote:
My firewood "processing" equipment: http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/chainsaw/slides/chain-saws-02.html Very cool as said. Here is mine [1]. I built the wood shed! My first big/little venture into construction/wood. The only thing that is missing from the photo is a small sledge hammer, because someone borrowed it and didn't return it. So two of each - axe, hammer, and wedge - one big, and one small! (Also a bench grinder and some fringe equipment to sharpen stuff.) Feeling cold or condensation on an inside wall is a sure sign of insufficient insulation. The inside wall is made of some sort of stone material (it engulfs a chimney) but yes, it is colder than the outside walls which are wood. No condensation tho. Now it's 19.2C/21% but everything still feels cold. Perhaps it is my own immune system... Are there any more tests save for the temperature/humidity? The reason I ask is every time I wake up I'm completely out of my head. It improves rapidly tho but even after a really good they the sleep and morning is the same, awful. I Googled the symptoms and it matches perfectly "brain fog" and hypoxia! But I'm only at 15-25 MASL so that should be impossible, right? [1] http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/bike/wood-td-2018.jpg -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
#59
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rubber compounds
It improves rapidly tho but even after a really
good they [...] *day hypoxia indeed -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
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rubber compounds
Frank Krygowski wrote:
An ordinary fireplace is usually a net loss for heating. To prevent smoke pouring into the room, lots of room air has to be sucked up the chimney along with the smoke and most of the heat. That lost room air gets replaced by frigid outside air seeping in all around the house. This amounts to a convective loss that's far bigger than the radiant heat gain from the fire itself - although that radiant heat does feel nice. That's exactly right. I once started to fire like crazy when it was maybe 18C. After doing it for 2-3 days I started to sleep in my sleeping bag as the temperature was then 11-12C! So then I realized keeping the fire going ain't gonna help. Only when sitting directly in front of it did I feel the warmth. -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
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