nuts that won't come off

On 5/11/2017 3:56 PM, wrote:
On Thursday, May 11, 2017 at 6:55:43 AM UTC-7, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Often the situation is like this. There is
a very rusty bolt with a Phillips head.
However when you rotate the nut the bolt
rotates as well. And to hold it with
a screwdriver just destroys the star pattern.
To hold it with a pair of pliers isn't possible
either as the whole thing just rotates in the
grip working off the rusty layer.
Spraying WD-50/5-56 to no avail. I would like
to replace those with M5x16s. So far I have
drilled right thru the bolt and nut to dispose
that way. Is this what you usually do?

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573

I have one of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-Ma...AOSweuxWT0T J

Whenever I had a Philips screw I had the slightest doubt about I would put a large socket wrench on the bolt, have someone hold the wrench, insert this hammer driver and whack it with a mallet. It never failed me and I never broke out a Philips.


I agree, mine is very effective too.

--
- Frank Krygowski

"Emanuel Berg" wrote in message
...
And yes it's a pain in the ass but allowing
screws to rust in place should never
have occurred.

It happens every day. I suppose it is just
reality. Especially at the fender stays.

But I think even when rusty it should be able
to come off if it was only a bolt instead of
a Phillips so you could get a good grip!

Hacksaw I'd say even more pain than drilling.
Or as much, at least.

Hacksaw can be easy on a clamp bolt if you can get at some of the threaded
bit.

Drilling cross-point head screws is very easy. I use a drill set and start
with a small drill for a pilot hole - then just change up one size at a time
till the screw head drops off.

There's less drastic ways if you catch it before the screw head gets chewed,
but I wouldn't bother saving the screw to put back anyway.

On Thu, 11 May 2017 12:47:49 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Thursday, May 11, 2017 at 8:58:38 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Thu, 11 May 2017 15:55:40 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

Often the situation is like this. There is
a very rusty bolt with a Phillips head.
However when you rotate the nut the bolt
rotates as well. And to hold it with
a screwdriver just destroys the star pattern.
To hold it with a pair of pliers isn't possible
either as the whole thing just rotates in the
grip working off the rusty layer.
Spraying WD-50/5-56 to no avail. I would like
to replace those with M5x16s. So far I have
drilled right thru the bolt and nut to dispose
that way. Is this what you usually do?
Yes, if my "stripped head screw remover" doesn't work

Do you remember using an impact driver to loosen philips heads that were almost stripped?
"Philips-like" heads on Japanese mororcycles - most definitely. They
were not philips, and philips drivers didn't work well on them.

On Thu, 11 May 2017 15:13:23 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 11 May 2017 18:02:37 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

Yes, if my "stripped head screw remover"
doesn't work

... how does that work?
It is basically a very course thraded left hand threaded screw/wedge
that bites into the screw head and either a) losens it , b) twists the
head off, or c) strips the head worse.

I spent about 10 years drilling screws, bolts and studs out of
airplanes and engines and we learned not to use those reverse threaded
ezyouts. The problem is that they work too well. You drill the hole
and start the ezyout and "Gee this stud seems to be pretty tight" so
you twist a bit more and "Crack!" the ezyout snaps and you now have a
stud with a hardened steel ezyout broken off in it.
--
Cheers,

John B.

John B. wrote:

I spent about 10 years drilling screws, bolts
and studs out of airplanes and engines and we
learned not to use those reverse threaded
ezyouts. The problem is that they work too
well. You drill the hole and start the ezyout
and "Gee this stud seems to be pretty tight"
so you twist a bit more and "Crack!" the
ezyout snaps and you now have a stud with
a hardened steel ezyout broken off in it.

Okay, so what did you learn to use instead?
Ordinary metal drills?

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573

On 5/11/2017 8:51 PM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 11 May 2017 15:13:23 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 11 May 2017 18:02:37 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

Yes, if my "stripped head screw remover"
doesn't work

... how does that work?
It is basically a very course thraded left hand threaded screw/wedge
that bites into the screw head and either a) losens it , b) twists the
head off, or c) strips the head worse.

I spent about 10 years drilling screws, bolts and studs out of
airplanes and engines and we learned not to use those reverse threaded
ezyouts. The problem is that they work too well. You drill the hole
and start the ezyout and "Gee this stud seems to be pretty tight" so
you twist a bit more and "Crack!" the ezyout snaps and you now have a
stud with a hardened steel ezyout broken off in it.

Before EDM service that was damn near fatal. Now it's only
painfully expensive ( time + $$).


--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Fri, 12 May 2017 08:51:55 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Thu, 11 May 2017 15:13:23 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 11 May 2017 18:02:37 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

Yes, if my "stripped head screw remover"
doesn't work

... how does that work?
It is basically a very course threaded left hand threaded screw/wedge
that bites into the screw head and either a) losens it , b) twists the
head off, or c) strips the head worse.

I spent about 10 years drilling screws, bolts and studs out of
airplanes and engines and we learned not to use those reverse threaded
ezyouts. The problem is that they work too well. You drill the hole
and start the ezyout and "Gee this stud seems to be pretty tight" so
you twist a bit more and "Crack!" the ezyout snaps and you now have a
stud with a hardened steel ezyout broken off in it.
That is the easy-out- not the stripped screw remover. Totally
different animal and if the screw remover doesn't work you can still
drill it out. It can NOT break off inside the bolt or screw preventing
you from drilling it out. The twisted/threaded portion is only about
1/4 inch long.

On Fri, 12 May 2017 13:50:41 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

John B. wrote:

I spent about 10 years drilling screws, bolts
and studs out of airplanes and engines and we
learned not to use those reverse threaded
ezyouts. The problem is that they work too
well. You drill the hole and start the ezyout
and "Gee this stud seems to be pretty tight"
so you twist a bit more and "Crack!" the
ezyout snaps and you now have a stud with
a hardened steel ezyout broken off in it.

Okay, so what did you learn to use instead?
Ordinary metal drills?
When it comes to "easy-outs" there are ones with parallel flutes -
like a spline - that if NOT used in a "blind hole" can be drifted out
with a punch if they break off. No good in blind holes if they break.

"John B." wrote in message
...
On Thu, 11 May 2017 15:13:23 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 11 May 2017 18:02:37 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

Yes, if my "stripped head screw remover"
doesn't work

... how does that work?
It is basically a very course thraded left hand threaded screw/wedge
that bites into the screw head and either a) losens it , b) twists the
head off, or c) strips the head worse.

I spent about 10 years drilling screws, bolts and studs out of
airplanes and engines and we learned not to use those reverse threaded
ezyouts. The problem is that they work too well. You drill the hole
and start the ezyout and "Gee this stud seems to be pretty tight" so
you twist a bit more and "Crack!" the ezyout snaps and you now have a
stud with a hardened steel ezyout broken off in it.

They have a nasty habit of spreading the drilled out hollow bolt and making
it tighter.

Once or twice I've got away with drilling a hole down the bolt and banging a
Torx bit into it. You still have to get it just right so the hollow bolt
doesn't spread and tighten.

wrote in message
...
On Thu, 11 May 2017 12:47:49 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Thursday, May 11, 2017 at 8:58:38 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Thu, 11 May 2017 15:55:40 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

Often the situation is like this. There is
a very rusty bolt with a Phillips head.
However when you rotate the nut the bolt
rotates as well. And to hold it with
a screwdriver just destroys the star pattern.
To hold it with a pair of pliers isn't possible
either as the whole thing just rotates in the
grip working off the rusty layer.
Spraying WD-50/5-56 to no avail. I would like
to replace those with M5x16s. So far I have
drilled right thru the bolt and nut to dispose
that way. Is this what you usually do?
Yes, if my "stripped head screw remover" doesn't work

Do you remember using an impact driver to loosen philips heads that were
almost stripped?
"Philips-like" heads on Japanese mororcycles - most definitely. They
were not philips, and philips drivers didn't work well on them.

They do if you grind a tiny bit off the point.