Zefal HP Frame pump.still going strong

On 3/16/2014 1:41 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Another thread reminded me of this.

I have a Zefal HP pump that was given to me by a bike shop after the customer bought s new one. He bought a new one because the one he had got run over by a car and flattened in the barrel. The shop couldn't believe it when I came back the next day with that crushed pump in working order. You coukld see the scrapes where the damage had been done to the pump. All I did was remove the pump handle and inards, drive in a piece of hardwood dowel the same diameter as the interior of the pump barrel, remove the dowel and then reinsert the pump handle and inards. That was over 30 years ago and that pump is sill in use. I wonder if any of the alloy pumps today could have that done to them and be ressurected in the same way?

Cheers

I have done the same thing driving a socket-wrench socket through the
pump (Hey! They come in sizes so you'll have one that fits!).

In my case it was an old and beloved pump that had bounced free and
gotten pinched between the tandem's crossover chain and chainring.

I'm kind of astonished I can still get over 100 psi out of the thing.

Zefal HPs are the nearest thing to bombproof.

Mark J.

"Mark J." writes:

On 3/16/2014 1:41 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Another thread reminded me of this.

I have a Zefal HP pump that was given to me by a bike shop after the customer bought s new one. He bought a new one because the one he had got run over by a car and flattened in the barrel. The shop couldn't believe it when I came back the next day with that crushed pump in working order. You coukld see the scrapes where the damage had been done to the pump. All I did was remove the pump handle and inards, drive in a piece of hardwood dowel the same diameter as the interior of the pump barrel, remove the dowel and then reinsert the pump handle and inards. That was over 30 years ago and that pump is sill in use. I wonder if any of the alloy pumps today could have that done to them and be ressurected in the same way?

Cheers

I have done the same thing driving a socket-wrench socket through the
pump (Hey! They come in sizes so you'll have one that fits!).

In my case it was an old and beloved pump that had bounced free and
gotten pinched between the tandem's crossover chain and chainring.

I'm kind of astonished I can still get over 100 psi out of the thing.

Zefal HPs are the nearest thing to bombproof.

I found that the shaft eventually rusts. Despite polishing it
with steel wool, the increased friction made it hard to pump.
At least that's what I assumed was the issue.

--
Joe Riel

On 3/18/2014 11:45 PM, Joe Riel wrote:
"Mark J." writes:

On 3/16/2014 1:41 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Another thread reminded me of this.

I have a Zefal HP pump that was given to me by a bike shop after the customer bought s new one. He bought a new one because the one he had got run over by a car and flattened in the barrel. The shop couldn't believe it when I came back the next day with that crushed pump in working order. You coukld see the scrapes where the damage had been done to the pump. All I did was remove the pump handle and inards, drive in a piece of hardwood dowel the same diameter as the interior of the pump barrel, remove the dowel and then reinsert the pump handle and inards. That was over 30 years ago and that pump is sill in use. I wonder if any of the alloy pumps today could have that done to them and be ressurected in the same way?

Cheers

I have done the same thing driving a socket-wrench socket through the
pump (Hey! They come in sizes so you'll have one that fits!).

In my case it was an old and beloved pump that had bounced free and
gotten pinched between the tandem's crossover chain and chainring.

I'm kind of astonished I can still get over 100 psi out of the thing.

Zefal HPs are the nearest thing to bombproof.

I found that the shaft eventually rusts. Despite polishing it
with steel wool, the increased friction made it hard to pump.
At least that's what I assumed was the issue.


Maybe but more likely is crud inside and a dry piston.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

AMuzi writes:

On 3/18/2014 11:45 PM, Joe Riel wrote:
"Mark J." writes:

On 3/16/2014 1:41 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Another thread reminded me of this.

I have a Zefal HP pump that was given to me by a bike shop after the customer bought s new one. He bought a new one because the one he had got run over by a car and flattened in the barrel. The shop couldn't believe it when I came back the next day with that crushed pump in working order. You coukld see the scrapes where the damage had been done to the pump. All I did was remove the pump handle and inards, drive in a piece of hardwood dowel the same diameter as the interior of the pump barrel, remove the dowel and then reinsert the pump handle and inards. That was over 30 years ago and that pump is sill in use. I wonder if any of the alloy pumps today could have that done to them and be ressurected in the same way?

Cheers

I have done the same thing driving a socket-wrench socket through the
pump (Hey! They come in sizes so you'll have one that fits!).

In my case it was an old and beloved pump that had bounced free and
gotten pinched between the tandem's crossover chain and chainring.

I'm kind of astonished I can still get over 100 psi out of the thing.

Zefal HPs are the nearest thing to bombproof.

I found that the shaft eventually rusts. Despite polishing it
with steel wool, the increased friction made it hard to pump.
At least that's what I assumed was the issue.


Maybe but more likely is crud inside and a dry piston.

Yeah, that makes more sense. I find it hard to believe that the
friction would be significant. While it's a bit late---I've had
a replacement for a while---is there a recommended way to remove
any crud and lubricate the piston?

--
Joe Riel

On 3/19/2014 9:50 AM, Joe Riel wrote:
AMuzi writes:

On 3/18/2014 11:45 PM, Joe Riel wrote:
"Mark J." writes:

On 3/16/2014 1:41 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Another thread reminded me of this.

I have a Zefal HP pump that was given to me by a bike shop after the customer bought s new one. He bought a new one because the one he had got run over by a car and flattened in the barrel. The shop couldn't believe it when I came back the next day with that crushed pump in working order. You coukld see the scrapes where the damage had been done to the pump. All I did was remove the pump handle and inards, drive in a piece of hardwood dowel the same diameter as the interior of the pump barrel, remove the dowel and then reinsert the pump handle and inards. That was over 30 years ago and that pump is sill in use. I wonder if any of the alloy pumps today could have that done to them and be ressurected in the same way?

Cheers

I have done the same thing driving a socket-wrench socket through the
pump (Hey! They come in sizes so you'll have one that fits!).

In my case it was an old and beloved pump that had bounced free and
gotten pinched between the tandem's crossover chain and chainring.

I'm kind of astonished I can still get over 100 psi out of the thing.

Zefal HPs are the nearest thing to bombproof.

I found that the shaft eventually rusts. Despite polishing it
with steel wool, the increased friction made it hard to pump.
At least that's what I assumed was the issue.


Maybe but more likely is crud inside and a dry piston.

Yeah, that makes more sense. I find it hard to believe that the
friction would be significant. While it's a bit late---I've had
a replacement for a while---is there a recommended way to remove
any crud and lubricate the piston?


We use alcohol as a solvent and Brooks Proofhide as a
lubricant, mostly because they are at hand.

Jobst felt non-petroleum lubricants in pumps were not
necessary, and I'm not saying he's wrong but traditionally
lard or tallow products on pump pistons.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 20/03/14 03:11, AMuzi wrote:
On 3/19/2014 9:50 AM, Joe Riel wrote:
AMuzi writes:


Maybe but more likely is crud inside and a dry piston.

Yeah, that makes more sense. I find it hard to believe that the
friction would be significant. While it's a bit late---I've had
a replacement for a while---is there a recommended way to remove
any crud and lubricate the piston?


We use alcohol as a solvent and Brooks Proofhide as a lubricant, mostly
because they are at hand.

Jobst felt non-petroleum lubricants in pumps were not necessary, and I'm
not saying he's wrong but traditionally lard or tallow products on pump
pistons.


I wonder if that's to do with the possibility of rubber or leather seals
and so on, that petroleum products might damage where as lard or tallow
wouldn't?

--
JS