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#11
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Harris Cyclery wheelbuilding
On May 6, 10:46 am, landotter wrote:...
if you need a very normal combination of rim/spoke/hub--it's more economical and fun to just get a wheelinabox and tune them using Sheldon Brown's instructions--takes all of fifteen minutes, and they'll be as durable as something hand built. Can you give a pointer to SB's instructions for tuning a new generic wheel? (aka wheelinabox). I looked on his site and only saw very lengthy and detailed wheelbuilding instructions. I have no idea which portion to concentrate on. I'm curious because I recently purchased that type of wheel and am interested in giving it a once-over before riding. I need "idiot's guide" type stuff that assumes no knowledge (although I understand hubs, rims, spokes, spoke wrenches, etc - I've never actually tuned a wheel) Thanks. |
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#12
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Harris Cyclery wheelbuilding
On May 7, 12:07 pm, Camilo wrote:
On May 6, 10:46 am, landotter wrote:... if you need a very normal combination of rim/spoke/hub--it's more economical and fun to just get a wheelinabox and tune them using Sheldon Brown's instructions--takes all of fifteen minutes, and they'll be as durable as something hand built. Can you give a pointer to SB's instructions for tuning a new generic wheel? (aka wheelinabox). I looked on his site and only saw very lengthy and detailed wheelbuilding instructions. I have no idea which portion to concentrate on. I'm curious because I recently purchased that type of wheel and am interested in giving it a once-over before riding. I need "idiot's guide" type stuff that assumes no knowledge (although I understand hubs, rims, spokes, spoke wrenches, etc - I've never actually tuned a wheel) Basically you just want to make sure the relative spoke tension is fairly even. If you're musical, you can do this by ear by plucking, or see if someone can lend you a spoke wrench. It doesn't have to be perfect, just no wild disparities. Most wheels will come pretty close enough. Most wheelsinabox will need to be brought up to tension 1/4 to 1/2+ turn to get to good stable tension, as wheel building machines can't build at such tensions. Again, in a perfect world, you'd use a tensionometer and research the suggested tension for your rim, but in the real world, basic machine built wheels can usually take a 1/2 turn. No warranty from yours truly if you crack a rim, so start with 1/4 turn and do one rotation. Lube your nipples if you want to avoid spoke wind up. Then destress. You can search this group for all of the various methods. I usually just seat the spoke heads by pushing the wheel axle (remove skewer first) into a block of scrap wood by leaning on the rim with my body weight and working my way around the rim carefully, trying to not actually taco the wheel. You can see the spoke head pull into the hub flange. Then fine true it. Good to go. |
#13
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Harris Cyclery wheelbuilding
landotter wrote:...
if you need a very normal combination of rim/spoke/hub--it's more economical and fun to just get a wheelinabox and tune them using Sheldon Brown's instructions--takes all of fifteen minutes, and they'll be as durable as something hand built. Camilo wrote: Can you give a pointer to SB's instructions for tuning a new generic wheel? (aka wheelinabox). I looked on his site and only saw very lengthy and detailed wheelbuilding instructions. I have no idea which portion to concentrate on. I'm curious because I recently purchased that type of wheel and am interested in giving it a once-over before riding. I need "idiot's guide" type stuff that assumes no knowledge (although I understand hubs, rims, spokes, spoke wrenches, etc - I've never actually tuned a wheel) Once the spokes are in place, which we assume yours are, skip past the 'getting spokes in the hub and connected to the rim' part and continue reading. As noted, continually observe: overall tension roundness lateral variance and keep the rim centered over the locknuts. Dropping the overall tension to lubricate the nipple thread and the surface between rim and nipple can actually save time over struggling with a recalcitrant 'box' wheel. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** |
#14
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Harris Cyclery wheelbuilding
Camilo Wrote: On May 6, 10:46 am, landotter wrote:... if you need a very normal combination of rim/spoke/hub--it's more economical and fun to just get a wheelinabox and tune them using Sheldon Brown's instructions--takes all of fifteen minutes, and they'll be as durable as something hand built. Can you give a pointer to SB's instructions for tuning a new generic wheel? (aka wheelinabox). I looked on his site and only saw very lengthy and detailed wheelbuilding instructions. I have no idea which portion to concentrate on. I'm curious because I recently purchased that type of wheel and am interested in giving it a once-over before riding. I need "idiot's guide" type stuff that assumes no knowledge (although I understand hubs, rims, spokes, spoke wrenches, etc - I've never actually tuned a wheel) Thanks. http://www.bbinstitute.com/DX%20Demo%20Chap%2017.pdf Stabilizing the True Precision Tension Balance are the sections to pay particular note. + the advice given by Muzi in another response -- daveornee |
#15
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Harris Cyclery wheelbuilding
In article
, jim wrote: On May 7, 8:30*am, landotter wrote: On May 6, 4:39 pm, " wrote: On May 6, 8:46 pm, landotter wrote: On May 6, 7:22 am, jim wrote: Hi all, wondering if anyone out there has had experience with their custom wheels, *good or bad? If they're building them as Sheldon recommends and checking tension-- I'd trust them for sure. The prices are extremely fair, $40 labor per wheel and $1 each per butted spoke. Mind, if you need a very normal combination of rim/spoke/hub--it's more economical and fun to just get a wheelinabox and tune them using Sheldon Brown's instructions--takes all of fifteen minutes, and they'll be as durable as something hand built. It's even more fun to build them from his instructions! I don't know if it's fun in the classical sense, but it can be meditative after you've gotten into it. Tuning a wheelinabox set, riding them hard and discovering that you've managed to add stability and value to a commodity is sort of the first little baby step until you one day arrive at the point where you really need a hub and rim combo that's unusual enough to require a custom build. I got to see a gal riding on one of my first sets of custom wheels in the park this weekend, a trash heap huge orange German woman's bike with 60cm bars and MA3s on a Sachs Torpedo hub with a premium assortment of stainless recycled spokes from domestic and European sponsors (consider the project, people). She'd ridden the snot out of the thing the last year and had just been to the LBS to put a fine $40 top-of-the-line Electra basket on it, as she reported, "it had been utterly bullet proof." Good wheels are good wheels, no matter what ya bolt them to. Good wheels can make orange trash heap bikes pretty fun bikes, especially if you add gold KMC chains. *bling*- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yeah, my current rear wheel is a 36hole Deore hub on a 700C CR-18. I'm looking for something similar and none of the nashbar/performance/ jenson offer those sorts of wheels. I have 5 years on this wheel, and the side of the rim is looking kind of grim after all the braking...I guess Performance has a decent 32 hole wheel with the CD coating. I could practice up on that one... Replace the rim with a new CR-18 and go. By replace, tape the new to the old, loosen the old spokes until all are slack, then move spokes one at a time to the new rim. Be sure to lubricate the threads and new spoke beds. Run up the tension keeping the rim true, and balance the tension. Done. -- Michael Press |
#16
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Harris Cyclery wheelbuilding
On May 7, 10:07*am, Camilo wrote:
On May 6, 10:46 am, landotter wrote:... *if you need a very normal combination of rim/spoke/hub--it's more economical and fun to just get a wheelinabox and tune them using Sheldon Brown's instructions--takes all of fifteen minutes, and they'll be as durable as something hand built. Can you give a pointer to SB's instructions for tuning a new generic wheel? (aka wheelinabox). *I looked on his site and only saw very lengthy and detailed wheelbuilding instructions. *I have no idea which portion to concentrate on. *I'm curious because I recently purchased that type of wheel and am interested in giving it a once-over before riding. *I need "idiot's guide" type stuff that assumes no knowledge (although I understand hubs, rims, spokes, spoke wrenches, etc - I've never actually tuned a wheel) Ditto what everyone else said. The usual problem with box wheels is that the tension is too low and the wheels are not "stress relieved" -- although some wheel building machines do that. The machine manufacturers call it "stabilization." http://www.hollandmechanics.com/2007...tabilizer.html You should find out what tension is recommended for the rim (from the rim maker's web site) and then borrow a tensiometer from a neighbor to check the tension. If you don't have a neighbor with a tensiometer (time to move to a better 'hood), then you could try squeezing a good set of tried-and-true wheels to get an idea of proper tension. You could also just add a half turn of tension (that is usually safe with box wheels) and see if that keeps things true. If not, consider another half-turn. I don't like the Bicycle Wheel soft-taco approach to determining tension because rims these days are too whimpy, and you could get cracking at the spoke holes using that approach. -- Jay Beattie. |
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