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#141
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V-brake balancing screws.
On 4/7/2015 6:32 PM, James wrote:
On 07/04/15 23:06, AMuzi wrote: On 4/6/2015 8:28 PM, James wrote: On 03/04/15 05:53, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/2/2015 3:22 PM, Clive George wrote: On 02/04/2015 18:50, Ian Field wrote: Well, let's see. The seat post takes two, the seat clamp and the seat post clamp on the frame, the fender braces take another one, the Shimano pedal adjustment another one, the caliper brakes yet another one, so that is five and as I have some M5-.8 screws with a "brazier" head that take a smaller key normal, that is six. Well aren't you lucky. 8mm for cranks. 6mm for stem, one of the saddles and the bar end levers. 5mm for gear cables, the stem bolt and brake levers. 4mm for rack/mudguard bolts, some bottle bosses and the other saddle. 3mm for SPD adjustment, the other bottles and the downtube cable bosses. 2mm for brake lever adjustment and rear axle grub screws (magura brakes, WI hub). I think I did find a 2.5mm somewhere, but can't remember now. My toolkit should have it in. There's a couple of 10mm and 8mm hex head bolts too (M6, M5). Adjustable spanner for the crank tool. (I have had occasion to use this on a ride...). Pozi for the klick-fix bracket. Flat to adjust the bar end levers. And to state it explicitly for any new riders that may be reading: Yes, it's a very good idea to survey all the fasteners on your bike, and to make sure you have a tool in your pack that can tighten anything that might reasonably come loose. Even on bike tours, I don't carry bottom bracket tools or headset tools for my (now vintage) bikes, and never needed one on the road. I don't carry a chain tool, although I did break a chain once on a mountain bike ride. (I wired the chain ends together and ratchet-pedaled my way home - fortunately not far.) But everything else, I think I can fix on the road. For on the road chain repairs, various multi tools have a chain breaker, and a quick link is very small and light to add to a tool kit for just in case. I've been with others a few times when someone's chain has broken, and I snapped a cheap quick link myself. **** happens. I won't buy another cheap quick link, that is for sure. I can't say I've seen a deficient snaplink but I have often seen the wrong spec snaplink installed by a rider and that's indeed a recipe for trouble. There's a correct part for each chain and while they look similar, they are not. Very small dimensional differences matter greatly here. https://www.flickr.com/photos/551026...n/photostream/ http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/a...s/rp-prod56349 Pretty certain I was using a 10s quick link on a 10s chain. Yep, that's clearly a failure. We don't have Clark's connectors here. To bad the price and quality seem to match. There are both Campagnolo-10 and Shimano-10 connectors by the way. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
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#142
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V-brake balancing screws.
"James" wrote in message ... On 08/04/15 02:50, Ian Field wrote: "James" wrote in message ... On 03/04/15 05:53, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/2/2015 3:22 PM, Clive George wrote: On 02/04/2015 18:50, Ian Field wrote: Well, let's see. The seat post takes two, the seat clamp and the seat post clamp on the frame, the fender braces take another one, the Shimano pedal adjustment another one, the caliper brakes yet another one, so that is five and as I have some M5-.8 screws with a "brazier" head that take a smaller key normal, that is six. Well aren't you lucky. 8mm for cranks. 6mm for stem, one of the saddles and the bar end levers. 5mm for gear cables, the stem bolt and brake levers. 4mm for rack/mudguard bolts, some bottle bosses and the other saddle. 3mm for SPD adjustment, the other bottles and the downtube cable bosses. 2mm for brake lever adjustment and rear axle grub screws (magura brakes, WI hub). I think I did find a 2.5mm somewhere, but can't remember now. My toolkit should have it in. There's a couple of 10mm and 8mm hex head bolts too (M6, M5). Adjustable spanner for the crank tool. (I have had occasion to use this on a ride...). Pozi for the klick-fix bracket. Flat to adjust the bar end levers. And to state it explicitly for any new riders that may be reading: Yes, it's a very good idea to survey all the fasteners on your bike, and to make sure you have a tool in your pack that can tighten anything that might reasonably come loose. Even on bike tours, I don't carry bottom bracket tools or headset tools for my (now vintage) bikes, and never needed one on the road. I don't carry a chain tool, although I did break a chain once on a mountain bike ride. (I wired the chain ends together and ratchet-pedaled my way home - fortunately not far.) But everything else, I think I can fix on the road. For on the road chain repairs, various multi tools have a chain breaker, and a quick link is very small and light to add to a tool kit for just in case. The chain breaker I carry seems to be able to press links back in again. Its a fiddly job but one of the folding tools includes a spring wire hook to hang the chain ends close together for working on it. Yes, I'm sure on a wide chain I could push pins in and out with my multi tool chain breaker, however a quick link is a better repair solution for narrow chains where it is not recommended to rejoin the chain by pushing a pin back in. Mine is a 7 speed sprocket, and IIRC I was sold an 8 sp chain to put on it. When I finish wearing that out, I start using the cheaper chain from the bicycle section in the supermarket. That way I can sacrifice a whole chain for any length needed to add to the one I fit, and a few inches of spare links for the tool pouch. In any case; any repairs will always be made with identical links to the original. The supermarket prices fluctuate from week to week, take for example brake blocks, have been as low as £1.50 and high as £3.75 (average maybe about £2.00) - compared to that, a chain is £5.00, so I can pretty much regard it as a consumable just like brake blocks. |
#143
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V-brake balancing screws.
"Lou Holtman" wrote in message ... Frank Krygowski wrote: On 3/28/2015 5:01 PM, Lou Holtman wrote: Never understood screws with a bi slotted head, as you call it. They also use them for the limit screws of derailleurs. You have to be careful nit to damaged he heads because no screwdriver fits properly. I assume the idea is that any screwdriver will fit, at least half-assedly. And derailleur limit screws require very little torque, meaning precise fit isn't important. So the guy who's shifting is bunged up has a chance of fixing it with whatever's in his tool bag. Stupid concept. Slotted headscrews are or should be extinct for decades. Why keep them alive. I would not mind if they would use torx screws for all the fasteners on a bike. Finally caught the fasteners place open after the Easter holiday weekend and bought a box of socket cap screws. Now I have some stock of the screws, I wondered whether they also fit the limit adjusters on the derailleur doodad. |
#144
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V-brake balancing screws.
On Wednesday, April 8, 2015 at 5:49:36 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/7/2015 6:32 PM, James wrote: On 07/04/15 23:06, AMuzi wrote: On 4/6/2015 8:28 PM, James wrote: On 03/04/15 05:53, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/2/2015 3:22 PM, Clive George wrote: On 02/04/2015 18:50, Ian Field wrote: Well, let's see. The seat post takes two, the seat clamp and the seat post clamp on the frame, the fender braces take another one, the Shimano pedal adjustment another one, the caliper brakes yet another one, so that is five and as I have some M5-.8 screws with a "brazier" head that take a smaller key normal, that is six. Well aren't you lucky. 8mm for cranks. 6mm for stem, one of the saddles and the bar end levers. 5mm for gear cables, the stem bolt and brake levers. 4mm for rack/mudguard bolts, some bottle bosses and the other saddle. 3mm for SPD adjustment, the other bottles and the downtube cable bosses. 2mm for brake lever adjustment and rear axle grub screws (magura brakes, WI hub). I think I did find a 2.5mm somewhere, but can't remember now. My toolkit should have it in. There's a couple of 10mm and 8mm hex head bolts too (M6, M5). Adjustable spanner for the crank tool. (I have had occasion to use this on a ride...). Pozi for the klick-fix bracket. Flat to adjust the bar end levers. And to state it explicitly for any new riders that may be reading: Yes, it's a very good idea to survey all the fasteners on your bike, and to make sure you have a tool in your pack that can tighten anything that might reasonably come loose. Even on bike tours, I don't carry bottom bracket tools or headset tools for my (now vintage) bikes, and never needed one on the road. I don't carry a chain tool, although I did break a chain once on a mountain bike ride. (I wired the chain ends together and ratchet-pedaled my way home - fortunately not far.) But everything else, I think I can fix on the road. For on the road chain repairs, various multi tools have a chain breaker, and a quick link is very small and light to add to a tool kit for just in case. I've been with others a few times when someone's chain has broken, and I snapped a cheap quick link myself. **** happens. I won't buy another cheap quick link, that is for sure. I can't say I've seen a deficient snaplink but I have often seen the wrong spec snaplink installed by a rider and that's indeed a recipe for trouble. There's a correct part for each chain and while they look similar, they are not. Very small dimensional differences matter greatly here. https://www.flickr.com/photos/551026...n/photostream/ http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/a...s/rp-prod56349 Pretty certain I was using a 10s quick link on a 10s chain. Yep, that's clearly a failure. We don't have Clark's connectors here. To bad the price and quality seem to match. There are both Campagnolo-10 and Shimano-10 connectors by the way. I'm no engineer, but based on my experience talking with engineers and looking at broken stuff in the context of lawsuits, it looks like a slow-moving fatigue failure. I use whatever snap-link comes with the chain, and if I buy a Shimano chain, I use a KMC 10sp snap-link. http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...3&category=276 -- assuming I don't want to deal with the disposable Shimano pins. -- Jay Beattie. |
#145
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V-brake balancing screws.
On 08/04/15 22:49, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/7/2015 6:32 PM, James wrote: On 07/04/15 23:06, AMuzi wrote: On 4/6/2015 8:28 PM, James wrote: On 03/04/15 05:53, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/2/2015 3:22 PM, Clive George wrote: On 02/04/2015 18:50, Ian Field wrote: Well, let's see. The seat post takes two, the seat clamp and the seat post clamp on the frame, the fender braces take another one, the Shimano pedal adjustment another one, the caliper brakes yet another one, so that is five and as I have some M5-.8 screws with a "brazier" head that take a smaller key normal, that is six. Well aren't you lucky. 8mm for cranks. 6mm for stem, one of the saddles and the bar end levers. 5mm for gear cables, the stem bolt and brake levers. 4mm for rack/mudguard bolts, some bottle bosses and the other saddle. 3mm for SPD adjustment, the other bottles and the downtube cable bosses. 2mm for brake lever adjustment and rear axle grub screws (magura brakes, WI hub). I think I did find a 2.5mm somewhere, but can't remember now. My toolkit should have it in. There's a couple of 10mm and 8mm hex head bolts too (M6, M5). Adjustable spanner for the crank tool. (I have had occasion to use this on a ride...). Pozi for the klick-fix bracket. Flat to adjust the bar end levers. And to state it explicitly for any new riders that may be reading: Yes, it's a very good idea to survey all the fasteners on your bike, and to make sure you have a tool in your pack that can tighten anything that might reasonably come loose. Even on bike tours, I don't carry bottom bracket tools or headset tools for my (now vintage) bikes, and never needed one on the road. I don't carry a chain tool, although I did break a chain once on a mountain bike ride. (I wired the chain ends together and ratchet-pedaled my way home - fortunately not far.) But everything else, I think I can fix on the road. For on the road chain repairs, various multi tools have a chain breaker, and a quick link is very small and light to add to a tool kit for just in case. I've been with others a few times when someone's chain has broken, and I snapped a cheap quick link myself. **** happens. I won't buy another cheap quick link, that is for sure. I can't say I've seen a deficient snaplink but I have often seen the wrong spec snaplink installed by a rider and that's indeed a recipe for trouble. There's a correct part for each chain and while they look similar, they are not. Very small dimensional differences matter greatly here. https://www.flickr.com/photos/551026...n/photostream/ http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/a...s/rp-prod56349 Pretty certain I was using a 10s quick link on a 10s chain. Yep, that's clearly a failure. We don't have Clark's connectors here. To bad the price and quality seem to match. There are both Campagnolo-10 and Shimano-10 connectors by the way. I didn't realise there were different links for the two manufacturers chains. Thanks for pointing that out. I am happy with the Connex brand, and presently using a SRAM link on the road bike, only because that is all the shop had that I visited when I snapped the one in the photo. Oh, and thought the SRAM one is allegedly one time use only, it's been fine for me to be reused over the 17,500km that my current chains and cassette have taken me. -- JS |
#146
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V-brake balancing screws.
On Thu, 09 Apr 2015 06:06:35 +1000, James
wrote: On 08/04/15 22:49, AMuzi wrote: On 4/7/2015 6:32 PM, James wrote: On 07/04/15 23:06, AMuzi wrote: On 4/6/2015 8:28 PM, James wrote: On 03/04/15 05:53, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/2/2015 3:22 PM, Clive George wrote: On 02/04/2015 18:50, Ian Field wrote: Well, let's see. The seat post takes two, the seat clamp and the seat post clamp on the frame, the fender braces take another one, the Shimano pedal adjustment another one, the caliper brakes yet another one, so that is five and as I have some M5-.8 screws with a "brazier" head that take a smaller key normal, that is six. Well aren't you lucky. 8mm for cranks. 6mm for stem, one of the saddles and the bar end levers. 5mm for gear cables, the stem bolt and brake levers. 4mm for rack/mudguard bolts, some bottle bosses and the other saddle. 3mm for SPD adjustment, the other bottles and the downtube cable bosses. 2mm for brake lever adjustment and rear axle grub screws (magura brakes, WI hub). I think I did find a 2.5mm somewhere, but can't remember now. My toolkit should have it in. There's a couple of 10mm and 8mm hex head bolts too (M6, M5). Adjustable spanner for the crank tool. (I have had occasion to use this on a ride...). Pozi for the klick-fix bracket. Flat to adjust the bar end levers. And to state it explicitly for any new riders that may be reading: Yes, it's a very good idea to survey all the fasteners on your bike, and to make sure you have a tool in your pack that can tighten anything that might reasonably come loose. Even on bike tours, I don't carry bottom bracket tools or headset tools for my (now vintage) bikes, and never needed one on the road. I don't carry a chain tool, although I did break a chain once on a mountain bike ride. (I wired the chain ends together and ratchet-pedaled my way home - fortunately not far.) But everything else, I think I can fix on the road. For on the road chain repairs, various multi tools have a chain breaker, and a quick link is very small and light to add to a tool kit for just in case. I've been with others a few times when someone's chain has broken, and I snapped a cheap quick link myself. **** happens. I won't buy another cheap quick link, that is for sure. I can't say I've seen a deficient snaplink but I have often seen the wrong spec snaplink installed by a rider and that's indeed a recipe for trouble. There's a correct part for each chain and while they look similar, they are not. Very small dimensional differences matter greatly here. https://www.flickr.com/photos/551026...n/photostream/ http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/a...s/rp-prod56349 Pretty certain I was using a 10s quick link on a 10s chain. Yep, that's clearly a failure. We don't have Clark's connectors here. To bad the price and quality seem to match. There are both Campagnolo-10 and Shimano-10 connectors by the way. I didn't realise there were different links for the two manufacturers chains. Thanks for pointing that out. I am happy with the Connex brand, and presently using a SRAM link on the road bike, only because that is all the shop had that I visited when I snapped the one in the photo. Oh, and thought the SRAM one is allegedly one time use only, it's been fine for me to be reused over the 17,500km that my current chains and cassette have taken me. I think that the "one time use" is intended for those who remove the chain only when it wears out. -- Cheers, John B. |
#147
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V-brake balancing screws.
"John B. Slocomb" wrote in message ... On Thu, 09 Apr 2015 06:06:35 +1000, James wrote: On 08/04/15 22:49, AMuzi wrote: On 4/7/2015 6:32 PM, James wrote: On 07/04/15 23:06, AMuzi wrote: On 4/6/2015 8:28 PM, James wrote: On 03/04/15 05:53, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/2/2015 3:22 PM, Clive George wrote: On 02/04/2015 18:50, Ian Field wrote: Well, let's see. The seat post takes two, the seat clamp and the seat post clamp on the frame, the fender braces take another one, the Shimano pedal adjustment another one, the caliper brakes yet another one, so that is five and as I have some M5-.8 screws with a "brazier" head that take a smaller key normal, that is six. Well aren't you lucky. 8mm for cranks. 6mm for stem, one of the saddles and the bar end levers. 5mm for gear cables, the stem bolt and brake levers. 4mm for rack/mudguard bolts, some bottle bosses and the other saddle. 3mm for SPD adjustment, the other bottles and the downtube cable bosses. 2mm for brake lever adjustment and rear axle grub screws (magura brakes, WI hub). I think I did find a 2.5mm somewhere, but can't remember now. My toolkit should have it in. There's a couple of 10mm and 8mm hex head bolts too (M6, M5). Adjustable spanner for the crank tool. (I have had occasion to use this on a ride...). Pozi for the klick-fix bracket. Flat to adjust the bar end levers. And to state it explicitly for any new riders that may be reading: Yes, it's a very good idea to survey all the fasteners on your bike, and to make sure you have a tool in your pack that can tighten anything that might reasonably come loose. Even on bike tours, I don't carry bottom bracket tools or headset tools for my (now vintage) bikes, and never needed one on the road. I don't carry a chain tool, although I did break a chain once on a mountain bike ride. (I wired the chain ends together and ratchet-pedaled my way home - fortunately not far.) But everything else, I think I can fix on the road. For on the road chain repairs, various multi tools have a chain breaker, and a quick link is very small and light to add to a tool kit for just in case. I've been with others a few times when someone's chain has broken, and I snapped a cheap quick link myself. **** happens. I won't buy another cheap quick link, that is for sure. I can't say I've seen a deficient snaplink but I have often seen the wrong spec snaplink installed by a rider and that's indeed a recipe for trouble. There's a correct part for each chain and while they look similar, they are not. Very small dimensional differences matter greatly here. https://www.flickr.com/photos/551026...n/photostream/ http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/a...s/rp-prod56349 Pretty certain I was using a 10s quick link on a 10s chain. Yep, that's clearly a failure. We don't have Clark's connectors here. To bad the price and quality seem to match. There are both Campagnolo-10 and Shimano-10 connectors by the way. I didn't realise there were different links for the two manufacturers chains. Thanks for pointing that out. I am happy with the Connex brand, and presently using a SRAM link on the road bike, only because that is all the shop had that I visited when I snapped the one in the photo. Oh, and thought the SRAM one is allegedly one time use only, it's been fine for me to be reused over the 17,500km that my current chains and cassette have taken me. I think that the "one time use" is intended for those who remove the chain only when it wears out. A chain that I picked up somewhere has snap-off pins on the link pins that act as a guide while you're inserting them and snap off once you've pushed the pin fully home. It looks far better quality than the cheap chains from the supermarket, so I'm saving it until I come by a good quality sprocket that's worthy of it. |
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