adjust cone and locknut on front-wheel axle

On Tuesday, March 3, 2015 at 9:07:32 PM UTC-5, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 3/3/2015 4:35 PM, Ian Field wrote:


"James" wrote in message
...
On 03/03/15 12:43, Emanuel Berg wrote:
When I set out to re-fat the balls in the front-wheel
hub I noticed that the screw-nut on one side of the
fork hang by just a few threads, and the reason was
all the part were shifted to that side on the axle. I
suppose this is simply a mistake from the previous
bike owner as what I can see everything and all pieces
are symmetrical (or could be) and there is no need to
shift it one way or another. However when I tried to
get the cone and locknut to move sideways they were
stuck bad. The other pair on the other hand was very
loose. Whenever I grabbed the loose pair the whole
axle started to spin. I tried to hold it with a
polygrip and then a pipe wrench but it still spun when
I applied force to move the stuck pair of pieces on
the axle. Is there a method to do this?



Do you have a cone spanner? This is a thin steel open ended spanner
that fits the flats on the cone. The flats are likely 13, 14, 15 or
16mm across. The set of cone spanners I have, has a pair of 13/14mm
and another pair of 15/16mm spanners.

Hold the cone with the cone spanner and undo the lock nut with another
open or ring spanner.

(spanner == wrench).

Pipe wrenches and the like are best avoided.

The old pipe wrenches that some people call a "monkey wrench" are good
for gripping small diameters if you close the handles/levers in the jaws
of a vice.

The jaws are saw-tooth cut, so it matters which way you intend to turn
the nut.

Generally speaking the more modern "water pump pliers" are not robust
enough for vice assisted gripping.

For those sorts of jobs, I use locking pliers or Vise Grips. I think
Brits call them Mole Grips.

--
- Frank Krygowski

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/a/img809/3614/eu2z.jpg

grind sides to fit

"Frank Krygowski" wrote in message
...
On 3/3/2015 4:35 PM, Ian Field wrote:


"James" wrote in message
...
On 03/03/15 12:43, Emanuel Berg wrote:
When I set out to re-fat the balls in the front-wheel
hub I noticed that the screw-nut on one side of the
fork hang by just a few threads, and the reason was
all the part were shifted to that side on the axle. I
suppose this is simply a mistake from the previous
bike owner as what I can see everything and all pieces
are symmetrical (or could be) and there is no need to
shift it one way or another. However when I tried to
get the cone and locknut to move sideways they were
stuck bad. The other pair on the other hand was very
loose. Whenever I grabbed the loose pair the whole
axle started to spin. I tried to hold it with a
polygrip and then a pipe wrench but it still spun when
I applied force to move the stuck pair of pieces on
the axle. Is there a method to do this?



Do you have a cone spanner? This is a thin steel open ended spanner
that fits the flats on the cone. The flats are likely 13, 14, 15 or
16mm across. The set of cone spanners I have, has a pair of 13/14mm
and another pair of 15/16mm spanners.

Hold the cone with the cone spanner and undo the lock nut with another
open or ring spanner.

(spanner == wrench).

Pipe wrenches and the like are best avoided.

The old pipe wrenches that some people call a "monkey wrench" are good
for gripping small diameters if you close the handles/levers in the jaws
of a vice.

The jaws are saw-tooth cut, so it matters which way you intend to turn
the nut.

Generally speaking the more modern "water pump pliers" are not robust
enough for vice assisted gripping.

For those sorts of jobs, I use locking pliers or Vise Grips. I think
Brits call them Mole Grips.

Those are the ones.

OK for some jobs, but tend to bend at the cantilever joints when you try to
grip something as small as a bicycle axle tight enough to shift a seized
cone/locknut.

I have a box of them that will never be quite the same - usually I weld a
bolt on them to suit the tag on the welder earth lead, they grip well enough
for that after they've been strained.

Ian Field wrote:


:"Frank Krygowski" wrote in message
...
: On 3/3/2015 4:35 PM, Ian Field wrote:
:
:
: "James" wrote in message
: ...
: On 03/03/15 12:43, Emanuel Berg wrote:
: When I set out to re-fat the balls in the front-wheel
: hub I noticed that the screw-nut on one side of the
: fork hang by just a few threads, and the reason was
: all the part were shifted to that side on the axle. I
: suppose this is simply a mistake from the previous
: bike owner as what I can see everything and all pieces
: are symmetrical (or could be) and there is no need to
: shift it one way or another. However when I tried to
: get the cone and locknut to move sideways they were
: stuck bad. The other pair on the other hand was very
: loose. Whenever I grabbed the loose pair the whole
: axle started to spin. I tried to hold it with a
: polygrip and then a pipe wrench but it still spun when
: I applied force to move the stuck pair of pieces on
: the axle. Is there a method to do this?
:
:
:
: Do you have a cone spanner? This is a thin steel open ended spanner
: that fits the flats on the cone. The flats are likely 13, 14, 15 or
: 16mm across. The set of cone spanners I have, has a pair of 13/14mm
: and another pair of 15/16mm spanners.
:
: Hold the cone with the cone spanner and undo the lock nut with another
: open or ring spanner.
:
: (spanner == wrench).
:
: Pipe wrenches and the like are best avoided.
:
: The old pipe wrenches that some people call a "monkey wrench" are good
: for gripping small diameters if you close the handles/levers in the jaws
: of a vice.
:
: The jaws are saw-tooth cut, so it matters which way you intend to turn
: the nut.
:
: Generally speaking the more modern "water pump pliers" are not robust
: enough for vice assisted gripping.
:
: For those sorts of jobs, I use locking pliers or Vise Grips. I think
: Brits call them Mole Grips.

:Those are the ones.

:OK for some jobs, but tend to bend at the cantilever joints when you try to
:grip something as small as a bicycle axle tight enough to shift a seized
:cone/locknut.

Then you're using crap tools, or tools of the wrong size.


--
sig 30

sig 30


heez 2 lazee for the grinder......

vice grips....piker

Phil W Lee wrote:
avid Scheidt considered Wed, 4 Mar 2015 19:32:36
:+0000 (UTC) the perfect time to write:

:Ian Field wrote:
:
:
::"Frank Krygowski" wrote in message
...
:: On 3/3/2015 4:35 PM, Ian Field wrote:
::
::
:: "James" wrote in message
:: ...
:: On 03/03/15 12:43, Emanuel Berg wrote:
:: When I set out to re-fat the balls in the front-wheel
:: hub I noticed that the screw-nut on one side of the
:: fork hang by just a few threads, and the reason was
:: all the part were shifted to that side on the axle. I
:: suppose this is simply a mistake from the previous
:: bike owner as what I can see everything and all pieces
:: are symmetrical (or could be) and there is no need to
:: shift it one way or another. However when I tried to
:: get the cone and locknut to move sideways they were
:: stuck bad. The other pair on the other hand was very
:: loose. Whenever I grabbed the loose pair the whole
:: axle started to spin. I tried to hold it with a
:: polygrip and then a pipe wrench but it still spun when
:: I applied force to move the stuck pair of pieces on
:: the axle. Is there a method to do this?
::
::
::
:: Do you have a cone spanner? This is a thin steel open ended spanner
:: that fits the flats on the cone. The flats are likely 13, 14, 15 or
:: 16mm across. The set of cone spanners I have, has a pair of 13/14mm
:: and another pair of 15/16mm spanners.
::
:: Hold the cone with the cone spanner and undo the lock nut with another
:: open or ring spanner.
::
:: (spanner == wrench).
::
:: Pipe wrenches and the like are best avoided.
::
:: The old pipe wrenches that some people call a "monkey wrench" are good
:: for gripping small diameters if you close the handles/levers in the jaws
:: of a vice.
::
:: The jaws are saw-tooth cut, so it matters which way you intend to turn
:: the nut.
::
:: Generally speaking the more modern "water pump pliers" are not robust
:: enough for vice assisted gripping.
::
:: For those sorts of jobs, I use locking pliers or Vise Grips. I think
:: Brits call them Mole Grips.
:
::Those are the ones.
:
::OK for some jobs, but tend to bend at the cantilever joints when you try to
::grip something as small as a bicycle axle tight enough to shift a seized
::cone/locknut.
:
:Then you're using crap tools, or tools of the wrong size.

:Even the better quality ones can be strained out of true if used to
:clamp something hard with only one edge of the jaws.
:If you must use a destructive tool, a stilson wrench is a better bet,
:as it's self-tightening (if used in the right direction).
:Better to use the right tool though - it's what it's made for - and
nly resort to more destructive methods or tools when the right ones
:have failed.

I've broken lots of tools, but never a vice grips in any thing
resembling normal use. The only time I've borken a pair vice
grips were using a crap chinese junk tool or by putting a big pipe on
it. Or both. or whacking it with a hammer, probably.

--
sig 58

Emanuel Berg writes:

When I set out to re-fat the balls in the
front-wheel hub I noticed that the screw-nut on one
side of the fork hang by just a few threads, and the
reason was all the parts were shifted to that side
on the axle. ... However when I tried to get the
cone and locknut to move sideways they were stuck
bad. The other pair on the other hand was very
loose. Whenever I grabbed the loose pair the whole
axle started to spin. I tried to hold it with
a polygrip and then a pipe wrench but it still spun
when I applied force to move the stuck pair of
pieces on the axle. Is there a method to do this?

I finally acquired a cone wrench which is all you need
save for ordinary tools to do this:

1) Remove the axle from the hub.

2) Fixate the stuck bearing cone with the cone wrench.

3) Position the ring wrench on top of the cone wrench,
to grab the the stuck locknut, then pull opposite
directions (or just pull the ring wrench, keeping
the cone wrench still). With minimal force
it dissolves.

In this case, the bearing cones are 13 mm, and the
locknuts are 15 mm. However, only the locknut can be
moved with an ordinary wrench. For the bearing cone,
the locknut gets in the way because the ordinary
wrench is too wide (~6 mm, should be ~2 mm; in this
case the grip area of the bearing cone is ~4 mm).

Thanks for pointing me in the direction to the cone
wrench which is exactly what is needed to do this.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573