cut spokes above the nipples after rim true?

On 4/16/2015 8:02 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
I managed to get the rim fairly straight after it had
wobbled all over the place, but afterwards I noticed
that in the process some of the spokes were ~1-1.5 mm
above their nipple heads, so I wonder if they must be
cut or if it is sufficient to protect the tube
with flaps?


That indicates rim deformation and uneven spoke tension,
problems you are unlikely to surmount so start planning for
a rim or wheel.

Trim the spokes back to level with the nipple head, ensure
the rim liner isn't cut through and remember to remove the
rubber and do that again when you next true it.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 4/16/2015 9:14 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Sir Ridesalot writes:

If the spkes are protruding past the rim tape

They are still below it but they make a small ball
beneath it, if you will. The spoke ends have edges
that look pretty sharp.

You need to grind or file the spokes flush.
As another poster mentioned, it means your spokes
are too long. ... Ideally the spoke stops at tthe
beginning of the nipple slot.

Yes

So what tool do I use to cut, grind, or file
the spokes?

I know I got one answer but I thought I'd specify
the question.


A Var #17 spoke nipper would be ideal.
Failing that, what do you have? A small stone or burr/
rotary file in a handheld grinder or a file would do it.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

with the felt pen....

Spokes protruding are in the short diameter side
Spokes somewhat indented into their female rim threading are on the long diameter

Find the most outward and inward positioned spokes....mark that place on rim breaking surface-both sides....across the felt penned circumference mark you made.

Count .25 of spoke count counter and clockwise from each inward and outward point.

You should now see 2 halves of an ellipse *

Spokes are adjustable as a reductions of nipple turn from the most outward inward point...

Start with a loosening of one turn at the most outward and a tightening of one turn at the most inward

Move out to the halves point going alternately each side of the max inward outward spokes

And alternately the opposite inward and outward point halves/quarters

Gradually the elliptical wheel you had built will stretch into a rounder shape
Checking with both spoke positions as inward outward and a new felt circumferential pen marking will indicate round or not

I have a truing stand where the wheel is spun against a fixed point...I use a credit card

When the wheel is rounder...adjust all spokes to equal tension or ping/blonk when plucked.

Of the rim is unbent and all spokes were of equal length to begin with then you're moving toward a trued wheel.

https://plus.google.com/photos/10223...761?banner=pwa

IHS


* 'ELLIPTICAL' is corrupotted by OEM

On 17/04/15 14:38, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/16/2015 9:14 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Sir Ridesalot writes:

If the spkes are protruding past the rim tape

They are still below it but they make a small ball
beneath it, if you will. The spoke ends have edges
that look pretty sharp.

You need to grind or file the spokes flush.
As another poster mentioned, it means your spokes
are too long. ... Ideally the spoke stops at tthe
beginning of the nipple slot.

Yes

So what tool do I use to cut, grind, or file
the spokes?

I know I got one answer but I thought I'd specify
the question.


A Var #17 spoke nipper would be ideal.
Failing that, what do you have? A small stone or burr/ rotary file in a
handheld grinder or a file would do it.

http://www.amazon.com/HOZAN-YD-1017-.../dp/B000BSBSJS

Would also sort the Badgers out.

On 4/17/2015 1:52 PM, Tosspot wrote:
On 17/04/15 14:38, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/16/2015 9:14 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Sir Ridesalot writes:

If the spkes are protruding past the rim tape

They are still below it but they make a small ball
beneath it, if you will. The spoke ends have edges
that look pretty sharp.

You need to grind or file the spokes flush.
As another poster mentioned, it means your spokes
are too long. ... Ideally the spoke stops at tthe
beginning of the nipple slot.

Yes

So what tool do I use to cut, grind, or file
the spokes?

I know I got one answer but I thought I'd specify
the question.


A Var #17 spoke nipper would be ideal.
Failing that, what do you have? A small stone or burr/
rotary file in a
handheld grinder or a file would do it.

http://www.amazon.com/HOZAN-YD-1017-.../dp/B000BSBSJS


Would also sort the Badgers out.



Nice tool but doesn't cut flush to the nipple head like the
Var design:

http://velobase.com/ViewTool.aspx?ID...3973&AbsPos=39

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

butchers..


http://www.mcmaster.com/#abrading-polishing/=wsoidq

Sir Ridesalot writes:

Probably best to discover if the bloke has double
wall rims, or not. If he does the spoke ends
probably won't be a problem ...

He said the spokes make a small ball beneath the rim
tape. It's highly likely that in time the spokes
will wear through those balls and then puncture
the tube.

Indeed, the bloke doesn't have double wall rims

Thanks for all suggestions and in particular all the
specific references to tools. I'll have to hit the
dictionary and then see if the shops in the city have
anything to offer.

And yes, I understand that optimally you have a brand
new rim with perfect length spokes. However this wheel
was badly damaged. Now it is mostly straight - a lot
straighter, anyway. When doing it I didn't consider
the spokes but afterwards it hit me those would be
a problem later on.

But the spokes are most likely of the correct length
to begin with.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573

On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 7:18:20 PM UTC-4, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Sir Ridesalot writes:

Probably best to discover if the bloke has double
wall rims, or not. If he does the spoke ends
probably won't be a problem ...

He said the spokes make a small ball beneath the rim
tape. It's highly likely that in time the spokes
will wear through those balls and then puncture
the tube.

Indeed, the bloke doesn't have double wall rims

Thanks for all suggestions and in particular all the
specific references to tools. I'll have to hit the
dictionary and then see if the shops in the city have
anything to offer.

And yes, I understand that optimally you have a brand
new rim with perfect length spokes. However this wheel
was badly damaged. Now it is mostly straight - a lot
straighter, anyway. When doing it I didn't consider
the spokes but afterwards it hit me those would be
a problem later on.

But the spokes are most likely of the correct length
to begin with.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573

start with the circumference true felt test

On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 7:18:20 PM UTC-4, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Sir Ridesalot writes:

Probably best to discover if the bloke has double
wall rims, or not. If he does the spoke ends
probably won't be a problem ...

He said the spokes make a small ball beneath the rim
tape. It's highly likely that in time the spokes
will wear through those balls and then puncture
the tube.

Indeed, the bloke doesn't have double wall rims

Thanks for all suggestions and in particular all the
specific references to tools. I'll have to hit the
dictionary and then see if the shops in the city have
anything to offer.

And yes, I understand that optimally you have a brand
new rim with perfect length spokes. However this wheel
was badly damaged. Now it is mostly straight - a lot
straighter, anyway. When doing it I didn't consider
the spokes but afterwards it hit me those would be
a problem later on.

But the spokes are most likely of the correct length
to begin with.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573

If the wheel was badly damaged as in bent not just out of true then you might want to replace the wheel. Sometimes a bent rim that's been straightened can fail.

Cheers

Cheers

eyah right if ders $$$$$ throw the damn thing into the recyclot

if not struggle....

I developed a straightening machine using 5/8ths ply n deep reach clamps with an 11 pound engineers hammer....lacking camera $$$

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...rder=price_asc