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Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?



 
 
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  #31  
Old September 23rd 18, 10:32 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
JBeattie
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,870
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On Sunday, September 23, 2018 at 1:04:41 PM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 9/23/2018 12:46 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-23 09:20, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 9/23/2018 10:54 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-22 13:42, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, September 22, 2018 at 11:40:39 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-21 23:57, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, September 21, 2018 at 5:34:11 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
Snipped
He is a machinist and tool & die maker by trade, has a fully
equipped garage with lathe, mill and so on. He is building
stuff for his various vehicles all the time and made a couple
of parts for my MTB so I could build a sturdy rack.

120mm is a pain though, 10mm is a lot of widening. Looks like
this one can be shortened by grinding off the outer cog:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-TZ3...4/322007138705






Snipped

Is he going to grind down the body too?

He should read Sheldon Brown:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html and
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html

"The freewheel threading on these older hubs is generally
interchangeable except for some very old French units. If you go
from a 5-speed freewheel to a 6- or 7-speed freewheel, you will
usually need to add some spacers to the right end of the axle
between the cone and the locknut. Once you have done this, you'll
also need to re-dish the wheel to bring the rim back to the
centerline. You may need to re-space the frame if you have added
spacers to the axle. See my Frame Spacing Article for details on
this."


Right. I also had to re-dish my rear wheel after UG freehubs were
no longer available. It wasn't fun but I got it all done in under
an hour including replacing the freehub.


"How Many Speeds?


Doesn't matter. Actually, the less speeds the better.

Really?Â* Wasn't the complaint that he needed more gears to get up and
down the monster hills?


No, just a much larger cog than is on the corn cob right now. We all
become older and often due to a slowing metabolism also heavier. This
nonsensical 9-10-11-12 speed craze is unnecessary. Same with me, I
always shift across 2-3 gears, or 5-8 on the MTB, in one swoop.
However, I do need that 32T in back which I could do without when I
was 25.


The olde tymie wide step 5sp freewheels weren't much fun with the big
jumps.


I loved those! Except, of course, that these were prone to axle breaks
which I had a lot.

My old MTB has 7-speed, the new one has a 10-speed cassette. I did not
perceive any advantage whatsoever. It's just that when I bought it
they were all 10-speed and I wish they weren't because then the chain
would still be a sturdier wide one.


Â*... but it's a better arrangement than the current corn-cob.Â* Also
check his crank.Â* Some of the PX10s were spec'd with weird chainring
sizes with big small rings. I think mine had a 45t inner or something
like that.


My road bike has 42T and the smallest available for that set was 39T.
So some day I might throw a 40T in back as the largest cog but that
would also required a longer cage derailer.


Â*Â* ... Again, he could make some good money selling the bike in
the collector's market and then go out and buy a nice gravel bike
with lots of gears, lighter and stiffer where it matters with even
more tire clearance for the gnarly gravel riding that you have to do
in the wilds of Cameron Park.Â* There are some really good deals out
there on aluminum frame gravel bikes with hydraulic discs.Â* I think
updating a mid-fi French bike is a waste of money. If he can get by
with throwing on a freewheel, then I would stop there -- otherwise,
go shopping.


That's also what I'd do. Especially since he is a mountain biker by
heart so doesn't want to spend much time fixing a road bike.

As for gravel bikes, most of our trails are really not suited for
that. Lots of loose rocks and stuff, it won't be fun and likely break
the new bike. Even if the gravel bike survives it could result in
serious back pain for older riders:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5cjAW_nrl4

https://yarchive.net/bike/mountain_bike.html


Quote "That was the lightest frame I owned but I ruined it about 10
years later by descending a forest road that had a fairly short "rolling
drain" (a diagonal cross ditch that almost matched the wheel diameter.
That incident wrinkled the top and downtube but the bicycle was
ridable".

'nuff said.


From the same source: "Why is it
that when I propose something, you try to disprove it by distorting to
the extreme? There must be a defensive mentality at work..."

Jobst did ten years of at least occasional off-road riding with that
frame before hitting a hell of a ditch - "almost matched the wheel
diameter. " That says to me that the frame and its rider performed
pretty well. I suspect many a mountain bike frame has given up before
ten years. And that's not even counting the ones that simply became too
unfashionable to ride.

I'm not saying that mountain bikes aren't more appropriate for riding
off-road. But I very much doubt your constant claims that your trails
require super bikes ridden by super men.

Granted, I haven't ridden my road bike on a rough forest path for, oh,
about five days now.


Yes, but you always ride with someone -- so when the going gets tough and winter sets in, you can eat them or take a bike if yours explodes.

And for Joerg, what I was talking about was whenever we discuss bikes -- road or MTB -- all we hear about is the tough, tough, gnarly trails that you ride on both bikes, but the road bike pictures typically show some dirt road through the dry brown hills with a fire lane gate at the end and a paved road on the other side. The same sort of stuff I ride all the time on a CF Emonda with 25mm tires or on my commuter bike -- minus the dry brown hills.. This trail is on my way home from work. https://www.hikespeak.com/img/Oregon..._OR _6790.jpg I've ridden it on my commuter bike, illegally. You have to jump off and push when someone comes the other way -- otherwise you get lectured, which is time consuming.

-- Jay Beattie.
Ads
  #32  
Old September 24th 18, 03:20 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_4_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,538
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On 9/23/2018 5:32 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, September 23, 2018 at 1:04:41 PM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 9/23/2018 12:46 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-23 09:20, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 9/23/2018 10:54 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-22 13:42, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, September 22, 2018 at 11:40:39 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-21 23:57, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, September 21, 2018 at 5:34:11 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
Snipped
He is a machinist and tool & die maker by trade, has a fully
equipped garage with lathe, mill and so on. He is building
stuff for his various vehicles all the time and made a couple
of parts for my MTB so I could build a sturdy rack.

120mm is a pain though, 10mm is a lot of widening. Looks like
this one can be shortened by grinding off the outer cog:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-TZ3...4/322007138705






Snipped

Is he going to grind down the body too?

He should read Sheldon Brown:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html and
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html

"The freewheel threading on these older hubs is generally
interchangeable except for some very old French units. If you go
from a 5-speed freewheel to a 6- or 7-speed freewheel, you will
usually need to add some spacers to the right end of the axle
between the cone and the locknut. Once you have done this, you'll
also need to re-dish the wheel to bring the rim back to the
centerline. You may need to re-space the frame if you have added
spacers to the axle. See my Frame Spacing Article for details on
this."


Right. I also had to re-dish my rear wheel after UG freehubs were
no longer available. It wasn't fun but I got it all done in under
an hour including replacing the freehub.


"How Many Speeds?


Doesn't matter. Actually, the less speeds the better.

Really?Â* Wasn't the complaint that he needed more gears to get up and
down the monster hills?


No, just a much larger cog than is on the corn cob right now. We all
become older and often due to a slowing metabolism also heavier. This
nonsensical 9-10-11-12 speed craze is unnecessary. Same with me, I
always shift across 2-3 gears, or 5-8 on the MTB, in one swoop.
However, I do need that 32T in back which I could do without when I
was 25.


The olde tymie wide step 5sp freewheels weren't much fun with the big
jumps.


I loved those! Except, of course, that these were prone to axle breaks
which I had a lot.

My old MTB has 7-speed, the new one has a 10-speed cassette. I did not
perceive any advantage whatsoever. It's just that when I bought it
they were all 10-speed and I wish they weren't because then the chain
would still be a sturdier wide one.


Â*... but it's a better arrangement than the current corn-cob.Â* Also
check his crank.Â* Some of the PX10s were spec'd with weird chainring
sizes with big small rings. I think mine had a 45t inner or something
like that.


My road bike has 42T and the smallest available for that set was 39T.
So some day I might throw a 40T in back as the largest cog but that
would also required a longer cage derailer.


Â*Â* ... Again, he could make some good money selling the bike in
the collector's market and then go out and buy a nice gravel bike
with lots of gears, lighter and stiffer where it matters with even
more tire clearance for the gnarly gravel riding that you have to do
in the wilds of Cameron Park.Â* There are some really good deals out
there on aluminum frame gravel bikes with hydraulic discs.Â* I think
updating a mid-fi French bike is a waste of money. If he can get by
with throwing on a freewheel, then I would stop there -- otherwise,
go shopping.


That's also what I'd do. Especially since he is a mountain biker by
heart so doesn't want to spend much time fixing a road bike.

As for gravel bikes, most of our trails are really not suited for
that. Lots of loose rocks and stuff, it won't be fun and likely break
the new bike. Even if the gravel bike survives it could result in
serious back pain for older riders:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5cjAW_nrl4

https://yarchive.net/bike/mountain_bike.html


Quote "That was the lightest frame I owned but I ruined it about 10
years later by descending a forest road that had a fairly short "rolling
drain" (a diagonal cross ditch that almost matched the wheel diameter.
That incident wrinkled the top and downtube but the bicycle was
ridable".

'nuff said.


From the same source: "Why is it
that when I propose something, you try to disprove it by distorting to
the extreme? There must be a defensive mentality at work..."

Jobst did ten years of at least occasional off-road riding with that
frame before hitting a hell of a ditch - "almost matched the wheel
diameter. " That says to me that the frame and its rider performed
pretty well. I suspect many a mountain bike frame has given up before
ten years. And that's not even counting the ones that simply became too
unfashionable to ride.

I'm not saying that mountain bikes aren't more appropriate for riding
off-road. But I very much doubt your constant claims that your trails
require super bikes ridden by super men.

Granted, I haven't ridden my road bike on a rough forest path for, oh,
about five days now.


Yes, but you always ride with someone -- so when the going gets tough and winter sets in, you can eat them or take a bike if yours explodes.

And for Joerg, what I was talking about was whenever we discuss bikes -- road or MTB -- all we hear about is the tough, tough, gnarly trails that you ride on both bikes, but the road bike pictures typically show some dirt road through the dry brown hills with a fire lane gate at the end and a paved road on the other side. The same sort of stuff I ride all the time on a CF Emonda with 25mm tires or on my commuter bike -- minus the dry brown hills. This trail is on my way home from work. https://www.hikespeak.com/img/Oregon..._OR _6790.jpg I've ridden it on my commuter bike, illegally. You have to jump off and push when someone comes the other way -- otherwise you get lectured, which is time consuming.


IIRC, you also have to watch out for banana slugs. That's a hazard Joerg
never has to deal with!


--
- Frank Krygowski
  #33  
Old September 24th 18, 03:32 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_4_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,538
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On 9/23/2018 4:38 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Frank Krygowski wrote:

What I've shown? Like this?
http://analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/estavista3.JPG


What? The photo shows a boulder field maybe
15 feet long. Looks to me like a person could
ride to the left of it with no trouble. Yes,
there are smaller rocks beyond it, but many
times I've ridden stuff like that on a normal
touring bike. On a gravel bike it would
be easy.


? You need a MTB to ride that.


Not according to the Rough Stuff Fellowship.

http://cbklunkers.com/page.cfm?pageid=13666


--
- Frank Krygowski
  #34  
Old September 24th 18, 07:25 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
John B. Slocomb
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 805
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On Sun, 23 Sep 2018 22:32:21 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 9/23/2018 4:38 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Frank Krygowski wrote:

What I've shown? Like this?
http://analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/estavista3.JPG

What? The photo shows a boulder field maybe
15 feet long. Looks to me like a person could
ride to the left of it with no trouble. Yes,
there are smaller rocks beyond it, but many
times I've ridden stuff like that on a normal
touring bike. On a gravel bike it would
be easy.


? You need a MTB to ride that.


Not according to the Rough Stuff Fellowship.

http://cbklunkers.com/page.cfm?pageid=13666


The first person to ride across the U.S., on a bicycle, was a Brit,
one Thomas Stevens, who ride a "50 inch penny-farthing" built by the
Pope Manufacturing Company of Chicago, from San Francisco to Boston in
1884. No big tires, no 10 speed gears, no beaker of beer, just a pair
of socks, a spare shirt, a raincoat and a pocket revolver.
--
Cheers

John B.
  #35  
Old September 24th 18, 05:43 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,016
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On 2018-09-23 14:32, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, September 23, 2018 at 1:04:41 PM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski
wrote:
On 9/23/2018 12:46 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-23 09:20, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 9/23/2018 10:54 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-22 13:42, jbeattie wrote:


[...]

... Again, he could make some good money selling the bike
in the collector's market and then go out and buy a nice
gravel bike with lots of gears, lighter and stiffer where
it matters with even more tire clearance for the gnarly
gravel riding that you have to do in the wilds of Cameron
Park. There are some really good deals out there on
aluminum frame gravel bikes with hydraulic discs. I think
updating a mid-fi French bike is a waste of money. If he
can get by with throwing on a freewheel, then I would stop
there -- otherwise, go shopping.


That's also what I'd do. Especially since he is a mountain
biker by heart so doesn't want to spend much time fixing a
road bike.

As for gravel bikes, most of our trails are really not suited
for that. Lots of loose rocks and stuff, it won't be fun and
likely break the new bike. Even if the gravel bike survives
it could result in serious back pain for older riders:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5cjAW_nrl4

https://yarchive.net/bike/mountain_bike.html


Quote "That was the lightest frame I owned but I ruined it about
10 years later by descending a forest road that had a fairly
short "rolling drain" (a diagonal cross ditch that almost matched
the wheel diameter. That incident wrinkled the top and downtube
but the bicycle was ridable".

'nuff said.


From the same source: "Why is it that when I propose something, you
try to disprove it by distorting to the extreme? There must be a
defensive mentality at work..."

Jobst did ten years of at least occasional off-road riding with
that frame before hitting a hell of a ditch - "almost matched the
wheel diameter. " That says to me that the frame and its rider
performed pretty well. I suspect many a mountain bike frame has
given up before ten years. And that's not even counting the ones
that simply became too unfashionable to ride.

I'm not saying that mountain bikes aren't more appropriate for
riding off-road. But I very much doubt your constant claims that
your trails require super bikes ridden by super men.

Granted, I haven't ridden my road bike on a rough forest path for,
oh, about five days now.


Yes, but you always ride with someone -- so when the going gets tough
and winter sets in, you can eat them or take a bike if yours
explodes.

And for Joerg, what I was talking about was whenever we discuss bikes
-- road or MTB -- all we hear about is the tough, tough, gnarly
trails that you ride on both bikes, but the road bike pictures
typically show some dirt road through the dry brown hills with a fire
lane gate at the end and a paved road on the other side. The same
sort of stuff I ride all the time on a CF Emonda with 25mm tires or
on my commuter bike -- minus the dry brown hills. This trail is on my
way home from work.
https://www.hikespeak.com/img/Oregon..._OR _6790.jpg
I've ridden it on my commuter bike, illegally. You have to jump off
and push when someone comes the other way -- otherwise you get
lectured, which is time consuming.


That trail is a cake walk and I ride those with my road bike. No rocks
where you never know which ones will roll and which ones won't.

BTW, yesterday my MTB buddy and I did a ride and he asked me to come in
to look at the progress on his Peugeot PX-10. It's got a 7-speed
freewheel now, new seat, other stuff. Still missing are friction
shifters, brake cables, handlebar tape, shifter cables and some minor
items, all of which are in the mail. He said it's from 1972. So he's got
me beat by 10 years with my road bike.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
  #36  
Old September 24th 18, 06:09 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_4_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,538
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On 9/24/2018 12:43 PM, Joerg wrote:
He said it's from 1972. So he's got
me beat by 10 years with my road bike.


He's tied with my utility bike, which is ridden almost daily.

--
- Frank Krygowski
  #37  
Old September 24th 18, 06:14 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
AMuzi
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 13,447
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On 9/24/2018 11:43 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-23 14:32, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, September 23, 2018 at 1:04:41 PM UTC-7, Frank
Krygowski
wrote:
On 9/23/2018 12:46 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-23 09:20, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 9/23/2018 10:54 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-22 13:42, jbeattie wrote:


[...]

... Again, he could make some good money selling the
bike
in the collector's market and then go out and buy a nice
gravel bike with lots of gears, lighter and stiffer
where
it matters with even more tire clearance for the gnarly
gravel riding that you have to do in the wilds of
Cameron
Park. There are some really good deals out there on
aluminum frame gravel bikes with hydraulic discs. I
think
updating a mid-fi French bike is a waste of money. If he
can get by with throwing on a freewheel, then I would
stop
there -- otherwise, go shopping.


That's also what I'd do. Especially since he is a
mountain
biker by heart so doesn't want to spend much time
fixing a
road bike.

As for gravel bikes, most of our trails are really not
suited
for that. Lots of loose rocks and stuff, it won't be
fun and
likely break the new bike. Even if the gravel bike
survives
it could result in serious back pain for older riders:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5cjAW_nrl4

https://yarchive.net/bike/mountain_bike.html


Quote "That was the lightest frame I owned but I ruined
it about
10 years later by descending a forest road that had a
fairly
short "rolling drain" (a diagonal cross ditch that
almost matched
the wheel diameter. That incident wrinkled the top and
downtube
but the bicycle was ridable".

'nuff said.

From the same source: "Why is it that when I propose
something, you
try to disprove it by distorting to the extreme? There
must be a
defensive mentality at work..."

Jobst did ten years of at least occasional off-road
riding with
that frame before hitting a hell of a ditch - "almost
matched the
wheel diameter. " That says to me that the frame and its
rider
performed pretty well. I suspect many a mountain bike
frame has
given up before ten years. And that's not even counting
the ones
that simply became too unfashionable to ride.

I'm not saying that mountain bikes aren't more
appropriate for
riding off-road. But I very much doubt your constant
claims that
your trails require super bikes ridden by super men.

Granted, I haven't ridden my road bike on a rough forest
path for,
oh, about five days now.


Yes, but you always ride with someone -- so when the going
gets tough
and winter sets in, you can eat them or take a bike if yours
explodes.

And for Joerg, what I was talking about was whenever we
discuss bikes
-- road or MTB -- all we hear about is the tough, tough,
gnarly
trails that you ride on both bikes, but the road bike
pictures
typically show some dirt road through the dry brown hills
with a fire
lane gate at the end and a paved road on the other side.
The same
sort of stuff I ride all the time on a CF Emonda with 25mm
tires or
on my commuter bike -- minus the dry brown hills. This
trail is on my
way home from work.
https://www.hikespeak.com/img/Oregon..._OR _6790.jpg

I've ridden it on my commuter bike, illegally. You have
to jump off
and push when someone comes the other way -- otherwise you
get
lectured, which is time consuming.


That trail is a cake walk and I ride those with my road
bike. No rocks where you never know which ones will roll and
which ones won't.

BTW, yesterday my MTB buddy and I did a ride and he asked me
to come in to look at the progress on his Peugeot PX-10.
It's got a 7-speed freewheel now, new seat, other stuff.
Still missing are friction shifters, brake cables, handlebar
tape, shifter cables and some minor items, all of which are
in the mail. He said it's from 1972. So he's got me beat by
10 years with my road bike.


His original shifters are better than modern versions IMHO.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971


  #38  
Old September 24th 18, 06:41 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,016
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On 2018-09-24 10:14, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/24/2018 11:43 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-23 14:32, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, September 23, 2018 at 1:04:41 PM UTC-7, Frank
Krygowski
wrote:
On 9/23/2018 12:46 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-23 09:20, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 9/23/2018 10:54 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-22 13:42, jbeattie wrote:


[...]

... Again, he could make some good money selling the
bike
in the collector's market and then go out and buy a nice
gravel bike with lots of gears, lighter and stiffer
where
it matters with even more tire clearance for the gnarly
gravel riding that you have to do in the wilds of
Cameron
Park. There are some really good deals out there on
aluminum frame gravel bikes with hydraulic discs. I
think
updating a mid-fi French bike is a waste of money. If he
can get by with throwing on a freewheel, then I would
stop
there -- otherwise, go shopping.


That's also what I'd do. Especially since he is a
mountain
biker by heart so doesn't want to spend much time
fixing a
road bike.

As for gravel bikes, most of our trails are really not
suited
for that. Lots of loose rocks and stuff, it won't be
fun and
likely break the new bike. Even if the gravel bike
survives
it could result in serious back pain for older riders:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5cjAW_nrl4

https://yarchive.net/bike/mountain_bike.html


Quote "That was the lightest frame I owned but I ruined
it about
10 years later by descending a forest road that had a
fairly
short "rolling drain" (a diagonal cross ditch that
almost matched
the wheel diameter. That incident wrinkled the top and
downtube
but the bicycle was ridable".

'nuff said.

From the same source: "Why is it that when I propose
something, you
try to disprove it by distorting to the extreme? There
must be a
defensive mentality at work..."

Jobst did ten years of at least occasional off-road
riding with
that frame before hitting a hell of a ditch - "almost
matched the
wheel diameter. " That says to me that the frame and its
rider
performed pretty well. I suspect many a mountain bike
frame has
given up before ten years. And that's not even counting
the ones
that simply became too unfashionable to ride.

I'm not saying that mountain bikes aren't more
appropriate for
riding off-road. But I very much doubt your constant
claims that
your trails require super bikes ridden by super men.

Granted, I haven't ridden my road bike on a rough forest
path for,
oh, about five days now.

Yes, but you always ride with someone -- so when the going
gets tough
and winter sets in, you can eat them or take a bike if yours
explodes.

And for Joerg, what I was talking about was whenever we
discuss bikes
-- road or MTB -- all we hear about is the tough, tough,
gnarly
trails that you ride on both bikes, but the road bike
pictures
typically show some dirt road through the dry brown hills
with a fire
lane gate at the end and a paved road on the other side.
The same
sort of stuff I ride all the time on a CF Emonda with 25mm
tires or
on my commuter bike -- minus the dry brown hills. This
trail is on my
way home from work.
https://www.hikespeak.com/img/Oregon..._OR _6790.jpg


I've ridden it on my commuter bike, illegally. You have
to jump off
and push when someone comes the other way -- otherwise you
get
lectured, which is time consuming.


That trail is a cake walk and I ride those with my road
bike. No rocks where you never know which ones will roll and
which ones won't.

BTW, yesterday my MTB buddy and I did a ride and he asked me
to come in to look at the progress on his Peugeot PX-10.
It's got a 7-speed freewheel now, new seat, other stuff.
Still missing are friction shifters, brake cables, handlebar
tape, shifter cables and some minor items, all of which are
in the mail. He said it's from 1972. So he's got me beat by
10 years with my road bike.


His original shifters are better than modern versions IMHO.


Except they are no longer around. He bought the bike slightly used in
the 70's and it was modified to bar end shifters which were kind of a
sorry affair and had to go. No problem, he prefers stem shifters over
downtube and got some for under $10 on EBay.

Hopefully it'll all arrive in the next couple of weeks and we can do
road bike rides together, both on vintage equipment. Folsom to
Sacramento is a really nice ride, 15mph limit but last week Smokey was
only seen at one spot. Best of all there is a beer garden after 30mi.

http://www.ajauntwithjoy.com/wp-cont...1/IMG_3247.jpg

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
  #39  
Old September 24th 18, 08:26 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
JBeattie
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,870
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On Monday, September 24, 2018 at 10:09:50 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 9/24/2018 12:43 PM, Joerg wrote:
He said it's from 1972. So he's got
me beat by 10 years with my road bike.


He's tied with my utility bike, which is ridden almost daily.


My PX10 was from '69 and bought in '72-3, but its long gone. RIP. To get a 7 speed on the PX10, he had to send the PW hubs back to PW for a new axle (probably $90 plus shipping unless local shop has tools). He also had to re-space the frame (making sure he dropouts are parallel, probably $60 if he went to a shop) dish the wheels (assuming the rear wasn't disassembled to return the hub $20). All the replacement stuff with freewheel, saddle, brake pads, cables, tape. We're talking an easy $400 to make it a bike that needs another $500 to make it as good as a $400 bike from Bikes Direct.
I look at this and groan: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h...2/IMG_2675.JPG

I never understood people who collected second string French stuff from that era. I could see fluffing up a Masi or DeRosa, but that's about it for me. I bought a used PX10 when I was in high school, and it was all I could afford. I would have bought Italian if I had the money.

-- Jay Beattie.
  #40  
Old September 24th 18, 08:41 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
AMuzi
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 13,447
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On 9/24/2018 2:26 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, September 24, 2018 at 10:09:50 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 9/24/2018 12:43 PM, Joerg wrote:
He said it's from 1972. So he's got
me beat by 10 years with my road bike.


He's tied with my utility bike, which is ridden almost daily.


My PX10 was from '69 and bought in '72-3, but its long gone. RIP. To get a 7 speed on the PX10, he had to send the PW hubs back to PW for a new axle (probably $90 plus shipping unless local shop has tools). He also had to re-space the frame (making sure he dropouts are parallel, probably $60 if he went to a shop) dish the wheels (assuming the rear wasn't disassembled to return the hub $20). All the replacement stuff with freewheel, saddle, brake pads, cables, tape. We're talking an easy $400 to make it a bike that needs another $500 to make it as good as a $400 bike from Bikes Direct.
I look at this and groan: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h...2/IMG_2675.JPG

I never understood people who collected second string French stuff from that era. I could see fluffing up a Masi or DeRosa, but that's about it for me. I bought a used PX10 when I was in high school, and it was all I could afford. I would have bought Italian if I had the money.

-- Jay Beattie.


I have a fondness for French bikes but except for accurate
restorations
http://www.yellowjersey.org/PEUGWISE.JPG
http://www.yellowjersey.org/klz15a.jpg

I agree with you. Sorta halfway 'upgrades' are seldom worth
the trouble.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971


 




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